 Hello boys and girls, welcome to another EJ25 build video, this is part 5, we're going to take care of the cylinder heads, now you see me here lubricating the buckets or the lifters before I install the head onto the block, now you can do this before or after, it doesn't matter, I'm also going to install ARP studs, you do have to torque down the head before you install the camshafts, I'm also going to measure valve lash, basically the clearance between the buckets and the cams and then the valve covers, so as always like, subscribe and enjoy the video. First the guide pins or dowel pins, dowels, whatever, so ARP says there can be any oil on any of the washers, any of the nuts where they meet, same thing goes for the six spots where the nuts will go hold against on the head, there can be no oil at all. Well, the only lubrication I'm going to use is this assembly lubricant and the studs, there you go, clean the spot faces on the cylinder head where the washer sits, nothing about lubricating the studs going into the block, just hand tighten the studs to the hex and remove that oil from those washers and nuts. There you go, lubricate the stud threads and the bottom of the nuts with ARP lubricant, then we're going to torque them. Alright, so you saw that, as I was driving these in, I heard bubbles popping and sounded like there's water in them, so I had a tiny bit amount of water in each hole. I did clean the block, I dipped it in hot water with soap, that was two days ago or so. Anyways, took them out, I'm going to do the other side the same way, they say to install the head first and then the studs, I'm going to do it this way, it's just easier. So now it's ready for the head. There we go, perfect fit actually. Another thing that's going to be easier before I put the head back on, that's applying the lubricant to the studs, to the threads right here. Cleaned up the washers, no lubrication on the washers, either side. So we're doing 30, 60, then 90, and it's 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. That's the workout. That's the intake cam check, it actually says IN for intake. This one is exhaust, I don't know if you can see this EX for exhaust. So as I was saying to a turned off and a not recording camera, I applied a thin bead of RTV along here, here and here. Okay, I'm going to install this, I've got to loop this up. So finger tight for now, same story as always, too much lubrication. These actually also say exhaust and intake, so this is exhaust and this is intake. Okay, I can torque these two down in two steps, first step is 7, second is 15. I'm going to wait on that RTV to dry up. And I just remembered something, remember this, I forgot to tighten this down. Okay, time to torque these down, first I'm going to start with these, torque it down to 15, it's actually 14.8. So the two in the middle first, you move out the outside ones, then these four get 7.2. I got it set down to 7, I'm just going to go over 0.2, actually I'll set it to 8. So again, two in the middle, this one's a bit too tight, I'm going to back off a bit. Now since all these are torqued, I can check the clearance between the cups or lifters, I think they're called cups and the cams. So I got some numbers, I already measured these a few times, but never with the head being on the block, torque down and all. It may be different, that's why I'm rechecking. So basically what you do is you just take a filler gauge and you, I got a 0.007 here, see it slides under this one. It kind of wants to go under here, oh it does, so this is for sure, that's a 7000, this one, the first one, which is fine. It's supposed to be between 7000 to 9000, so since the 7000 went in easy on the remaining three, I'm going to switch to 8000 and recheck again. So it doesn't want to go in here, it does not go in here, it does go through here, it's barely, it's tight. So I call, I'd say that's a 7, 7 to 8, 7 to 8 and then 8 to 9, which is perfect. Let's check the exhaust. The exhaust is supposed to be between 9000 and 11000, so 8000 to 11000. I'm going to start with 9, goes in easy, easy, easy and easy. Let's go up to 10, easy, easy, easy and easy. Easy, 11000, goes in, goes in and in. Got a 12 here, 0.012, goes in, in. I'm going to double check on those measurements, I believe it may be higher than 9 to 11, could be 13 to 15. Okay, so it is a bit higher, it's supposed to be 0.0138, which is nearly 14,000. Acer minus 0.0008, very confusing. I'm just going to go straight to 14, there we go, doesn't fit, does not fit, no and no. Just for fun, I'm going to try and go with 13, 0.013. Nope, I'm going to try 12 again, 12 goes in, no issues. So I guess they're going to be a bit tight. The clearances did actually change, I could maybe loosen these up a little bit. So when I had the head off on the bench, I installed the camshafts, all this, no RTV on this obviously, there need to. They were a little bit looser, I even got a 14 on one of them, but it was a mixture of 13 to 14. Right now we're at 12, across the board, probably 12.5 or so. The 13 kind of feels like it wants to go in, I don't want to force it. I did go 15 on these, it was supposed to be 14.8. I'm going to loosen this up a little bit, so 14.8. 14.6, let's go with that. See if that made any difference, it goes in here now, 13. It wants to go in, check 12 again, no problem there. It's probably like a 12.5, close to 13 on these two. I'm staying with that, should be fine. Alright, time for the valve cover. But before the valve cover can go on, we need to put some RTV in a few areas here. First these half moons, the two that go here. These are aluminum, the factory ones are plastic, they like to crack. And starting from about here, a thin bead all the way up to here. So basically on these uneven, well, these are smooth surfaces, it's just inclines, declines. So that's where they want RTV. Right about there, a bit more in the corner. Yes, I did polish the valve cover a little bit. It would take much longer to get it super shiny. Alright, these guys start down to 4.7, I'm going with 5, starting here. And basically going across, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.