 In Utah, we have over 40 freeze-thaw cycles a year, and for roads, that's bad news. Because it seems that no matter what we do, water gets under the roadways. And when water under the road expands and can travel, as the weather changes, the all too familiar result is potholes. When there's enough time and money, we can get to these problems and fix them permanently. But when they're a hazard to the traveling public, we have to fix them any way we can. As soon as we can. This program covers temporary patching. The procedures to follow when safety is the major concern. As you can probably guess, this type of patching is more for protection than anything else. We're still concerned with quality workmanship. But the main thing is to get the holes filled. And even though you can consider this to be a type of emergency work, we're never in so big a hurry that there isn't enough time to put out all the necessary traffic control devices. So before you leave the station, make sure you have everything you need to do the job safely. You'll also need a shovel, a broom, a derby rake, and of course, patching material. There's nothing special about the shovel or the broom, but there is with both the rake and the material. First, the rake. Most people just call it a derby. And what makes it different from other rakes is the perforations. As you can see, the spaces in the derby are much more shallow and farther apart than they are in an ordinary rake. And when you're working with mulch, you need that extra space. Otherwise, you just pull all the large particles out of the mix. So the point is, make sure you use a derby. And that brings us to the material. Basically, there are two types suitable for patching. Granule material and mulch. Let's look at the granulotype first. Basically, it's just gravel, and the best time to use it is in bad weather. That's because moisture will not affect it. Just be sure that when you use granule material that no stone has a dimension greater than one inch in any direction. Stones larger than one inch are likely to kick out when traffic passes over the patch. As for mulch, you have to be sure to use the right type. The mulch we use for temporary patching is quite different from the mulch we use for permanent repairs. The difference is in the asphalt or oil content. In permanent repairs, we always tack the area first and then add the mulch. The tack bonds the mulch to the pavement. But with temporary repairs, we don't tack the surface. So the mulch has to have extra oil already mixed in so that it can bond with the surrounding pavement. If you use the mulch without the extra oil, there's nothing to hold the patch in place, and it'll come out before you know it. So to review, make sure you have a derby rake, a shovel and a broom, all the necessary traffic control devices, and mulch with high oil content or granular material smaller than one inch. Okay, now let's look at the procedure. The first thing to do is put up two advance warning signs on each end of the work area. But remember, that's the minimum you'll need. If traffic conditions warrant it, get additional signs and a flagger. Now as I said, the main objective here is to get the holes filled. But if you're using mulch, there are two things to keep in mind that will greatly affect how long the patch will last. First, the condition of the hole. Again, the mulch you'll use has a high oil content so that it can bond the mulch to the pavement. But beyond that, the cleaner and drier the hole, the better the bond. So if it's at all possible, take a few seconds to sweep out any dirt or water. And second, the more you can compact the material, the stronger the patch will be. So stomp the material in as you place it, and then drive over it a few times with a truck. But probably the single thing that makes the most difference to the traveling public is the smoothness of the patch. So again, when time and traffic allow, smooth the patch out with a derby before rolling it with a truck. Add as some it's said, but not as good as some it hoped. So I think we're left still with a drug that can be... So you'll probably end by placing the signs extra far apart. People tend to forget that they've been warned of the road work ahead. This is especially true when the road you're working on has a lot of curves or hills. If the motorist doesn't see you soon after the sign, the message will be forgotten. So again, keep the signs close to you, even if it means moving them several times a day. And that's the procedure. If you're using granular material, all you have to do is fill the hole and drive over it with a truck. But if you're using mulch, stomp the material in as you place it and drive over it a few times with a truck. And if time and traffic allow you to, clean up the hole first and smooth the patch with a derby before you drive over it. Finally, when you're through making temporary repairs, be sure to put up road damage signs on both ends of the area. Because even when you've done the best job possible, some of the patches will come out and the public needs to be warned of the road condition.