 Just when it is about to leave Tranquil Lao PDR and enter Cambodia, the great Mekong River seizes to be its own meandering and placid self and builds up huge force. Awesome in its intensity, the swirling frothing gushing blue waters of Mekong are a sight to behold. At the Kone Falls, the turmoil in the mother of all waters is ephemeral, but it soon settles down to flow gently. In a country where ironically, history has been extremely tumultuous. True to Indian traditions, where it is difficult to separate myth from history, Cambodia's founding too has been left at the mercy of mythical legends. Chinese writings and Sanskrit inscriptions give legitimacy to a thousands of years old tale in which a young North Indian Kambhoj Brahmin, Kordiniya, discovered Cambodia. The place was called after him as Kambhoja. French rulers stuck to this name and called it Kambhoj. It has also been called Khmer Kingdom after its people. In the old days, a Khmer king had to be a Cambodian and an Indian at the same time. Hindu kings implanted their concepts in Cambodia that also gave birth to a writing system and the first inscriptions. Temple architecture and mythologies followed soon. Since then, India throbs robustly in every aspect of Cambodian life. Cambodians were eager and willing recipients of India's culture. The best example of this enduring legacy that subsumes art, culture and architecture is the world's wonder. The great temple complex of Angkor Wat. Located in the town of Siam Reap, Angkor is a temple kingdom whose period spanned between 802 and 1432 AD. A marvel in stone and vision, it is spread over an area of 200 square kilometers and is grander and bigger than any such edifice in the world. King Jayavarman II, who freed himself from the yoke of Indonesian kings and consolidated the Khmer people, founded the Angkor Kingdom. Taking the help of Brahmin priests, he declared himself Devaraja, God-King. But the Angkor Wat temple was built by King Suryavarman to honor Lord Vishnu and his various incarnations. It is here that one experiences the continuity that runs between Hinduism and Buddhism. Lord Buddha is shown as the 9th avatar of Lord Vishnu. Indian temple architecture may be its inspiration, but Angkor Wat is very different and very Khmer. Unlike Hindu temples that face east, Angkor Wat has its back to the sun. So when the sun rises, Angkor does not really glow but looks dark and brooding. And as the day marches, its towers, buildings and steep staircases begin to acquire a brighter hue. Angkor's extraordinary bas-relief makes it one of the most awesome structures conceived by the human mind. Its splendor and its harmony have left archaeologists and historians enthralled. Its imposing interiors, some sunlit and others dark, house amazingly intricate and sophisticated bas-relief of Mahabharata, showing the feud between the Kauravas and Pandavas and the triumph of right over wrong. Ramayana and the churning of the ocean are carefully sculpted. These wall sculptures also expose our world to wars and conquests of the Khmer kings and the lives and aspirations of its people. The Hindu vision of hell awaits those who transgress the laws of these devarages. Besides divinity, the temple also celebrates the female form. All over the complex, there are exquisitely carved images of the Upsaras, the temple dancers. 39 kings ruled Angkor for 600 years and exhibited enormous capacity for imperial and cultural expansion. Through war and conquest, they occupied large parts of Myanmar, Laos, Thailand and Vietnam, and left their indenized signature in temples and pagodas. Angkor Thong was the capital of the Khmer kings. Early travelers called it a city that was bigger than even ancient Rome, with a population of about one million. The houses of mortals that were made of wood could not survive time, but the rock-built abode of gods could. The most dramatic and enigmatic of all buildings is the Bayon Temple. Discovered much later from its dense green shroud, this temple lies in the architectural center of the royal palace of Angkor Thong. There are 200 large faces carved on 54 towers of varying heights. These faces do not say a single word, but have a smile that seems to hide a million mysteries. Earlier, these heads were believed to be that of the Bodhisattva, but later research revealed them to be the images of an omniscient king, Jair Badman VII. Banpe Sreya, or Ishwara Pura, is a 10th century temple famous for its intricate carvings, and is known as a jewel of Khmer art. Built by a Brahmin priest, this beautiful temple was single-handedly pillaged in his youth by the former French culture minister André Malraux. Banpe Sreya has large panels showing the immortal story of the kidnapping of Sita by Ravana and his confrontation with Lord Shiva at Mount Kailash. The story of Lord Rama and Sita exercises tremendous sway over the people of Cambodia and Southeast Asia. The story has been adapted in different languages under diverse backdrops. Cambodia's Ramayana ballet group enjoys the patronage of the royal family and is epitomized by grace and language movement of its colourfully costumed dances. Every year, the Ramayana festival is held in front of the majestic Angkor Wat. The charm and mystery of Angkor have been heightened by the fact that for hundreds of years, it was lost inside the thick tropical Cambodian forests. How did Angkor slip into darkness and neglect? Stone inscriptions indicate that invasions from nearby kingdoms of Ayodhya and Chams weakened the Khmer kingdom, forcing its ruler and people to leave. After the people left, the tropical forest took over its buildings. And history moved over to other kingdoms and other concerns. Putting Angkor together again required patience and commitment of conservationists. But all their good work seemed to go waste during the 1970s and 80s. In power for three years, the Khmer Rouge destroyed the Cambodian society by ravaging cities and transporting the country back to the Stone Age. More than two million Cambodians died in the killing fields of Cambodia. Every institution of the state was destroyed. The existence of historical sites, like Angkor and Chisur, felt threatened by an anarchist philosophy. In the capital, Nampen, the Tol Slang Genocide Museum is a living testimony of the violence fellow Cambodians subjected each other to. Earlier, a primary school, Tol Slang was a torture chamber where more than 20,000 people were first brutalized and then murdered in the most ghoulish way. After the war ended, the country's leadership began the painful process of reconstruction. The Indian government sent a team of archaeologists to restore Angkor and its environs. There were hostile times. The Indians negotiated live mines, armed bandits and nature and restarted its restoration. The Cambodian government acknowledges the bravery and professionalism with which these archaeologists worked in difficult conditions. Slowly, but surely, Cambodia is warming to peace and development. Roads have begun to bustle again. Cafes and restaurants have come up on the enchanting riverfront of Tonle Sap, the scene where nature presents a strange phenomenon. During the rainy season, the river changes direction to accommodate an overflowing Mekong river into the great Tonle Sap lake. The impulses of growth in Cambodia are coming from Thailand. For long the lone practitioner of market economics, Thailand has managed to leverage its geographical position, ancient culture and relative tranquility to its great advantage. Not surprisingly, the Ganga Mekong Cooperation Pact was an outcome of all the countries that share a common land mass, India, Myanmar, Thailand, Lao PDR, Cambodia and Vietnam to build on the collapse of flawed Cold War foreign policies. That distanced neighbors. As market got primacy over ideology, it became possible to conjure ideas and development objectives that could be jointly pursued by India and five other Mekong Basin countries. And the real spin-offs of this relationship are likely to be visible in the transport and tourism sector. To start with, the dream of having an east-west corridor between India and other countries of the Mekong Basin could become a reality. This could kick-start trade and tourism and help in generating more wealth for all the participating countries. The Mekong touches Thailand only briefly. The point where it touches its northern part before it flows serenely to Laos is the Golden Triangle. Sopruak, the center of the Golden Triangle, is a fascinating piece of history and geography. Here, three countries – Thailand, Lao PDR and Myanmar converge. Last 200 years of history and politics of this region has been closely linked with the main crop of this region – Opium. All the countries of the Mekong region have struggled hard to fight this disturbing colonial legacy. Thailand's northern region best showcases everything that is so typical of Mekong culture. Tribals who live in these parts are similar to the Indian tribals. Their jewellery is made of the old coins of British India. And their exquisitely embroidered dresses too are little different from the ones worn by the Mizo and Naga tribes of India. Their dances, myths and superstitions too are said to be the same. Economically vulnerable, these tribals have been used by vested interests to grow, sell and use opium. In recent years, the Thai government has managed to eradicate the cultivation of poppy and wean the tribals from it. A major role to rehabilitate the land and its people has been played by Doi Tung Foundation, set up by Thailand's royal family. The foundation creates a pool of dignified jobs that help in producing a basket of goods. Doi Tung project has also succeeded in preventing women from getting lured by the flash traders. The problems of tribal regions notwithstanding, the northern part of Thailand is culturally vibrant and colourful. And this frenzy reveals itself during the festival of water – Sankaran. Similar to the Indian festival of Holi, Sankaran is held on April 13th every year. For a week, the whole of the Mekong region is awash with gaiety and light-heartedness. Thais are extremely traditional when it comes to family values. Festivals become an occasion for family reunions and seeking the blessings of the elders. During this time, Chiang Mai, the old capital of the northern Lanna Kingdom, transforms itself into a riot of water and white powder. Speeding pickup vans mounted with drums of chilled water routinely dunk frolics. Chiang Mai still retains the distant links of this kingdom with India. What Jet Yacht Pagoda is designed on the Bodh Gaya temple. Hindu gods can be found in some of these temples. The hilltop temple of Wat Prathat Doi Sudheap provides a panoramic view of this kingdom. A rollicking tourist destination, Chiang Mai has a lot to offer. At Mai Se, it has a facility for training elephants that attracts visitors in hordes. Tourists just can't stop admiring what these elephants can do – even play football. Chiang Mai is also the cultural centre of Thailand. Here, Ramayana theatre has been perfected to an art form. The bamboo dance too establishes links with the Indian northeast. Traditionally, people of Chiang Mai prefer to sit on the ground and eat in a style reminiscent of India. The Khantoghe is a traditional way of serving and eating food. Between the 9th and 11th century, the central part of Thailand was under the sway of an Indianized civilization called Dvaravati. Later, this kingdom came under Khmer rule, followed by more indigenous control of Thais. In a reverse movement, Thais or Ahoms of Thailand invaded Asean and ruled it for many years. Before they turned Hindus, Ahoms were animistic who left their impress on temple architecture. During the 13th and 15th century, the first Thai kingdom was founded in Sukhothai. From here on, the Thais began to break away from the Khmer influence and came into their own. Sukhothai came under the influence of the Sri Lankan Theravada Buddhism. It made an abiding contribution in the evolution of the Thai script and in the elegant and stylized walking Buddha images. Here, Thai architecture reached its architectural excellence. The pagodas are more beautiful and uncluttered than anywhere in Thailand. Some years ago, UNESCO declared Sukhothai Historical Park as a World Heritage Site. Sukhothai was captured by the Thai kingdom of Ayodhya. Named after the kingdom of the Hindu warrior prince Lord Rama, Ayodhya, this Thai kingdom ruled for 400 years. In the 16th and 17th century, Ayodhya reached the acme of civilizational greatness. Its waterways gave an easy access to the Gulf of Thailand and stimulated maritime trade with India, China, the Middle East and European countries. The kingdom of Ayodhya fought many wars with Burmese invaders and some ironically were even fought for Buddhist relics. In the 18th century, the Burmese armies captured and ransacked Ayodhya. Even today, the old capital continues to be in that state. The Chakris are the builders of modern Thailand, who also founded the capital, Bangkok. Striking a gentle balance between religion, tradition and modernity, the royal house of Chakri has worked hard to change the face of Thailand. Their palace is a fine exhibition of the high level of cultural and architectural excellence that the country reached under their rule. The exquisite Emerald Buddha in the palace complex is its prime example. The Chakris represent a synthesis of the two great religions of this region. Buddhists in belief, they have their own court bramins who perform rituals based on old Indian scriptures. These Thai bramins worship the same Hindu gods, but with distance and time, the shape of the temple and the architecture of how the deities are placed has changed. In recent times, Indian gods have become very popular. Temples of Hindu gods like Brahma and Shiva have come up in downtown Bangkok. Bangkok has some of the finest facilities for the tourists. Its shopping malls overflow with the latest branded goods. As the Mekong comes close to immersing itself in the South China Sea, the debate about what constitutes civilizational commonalities and how it can be used in further strengthening economic ties has intensified. The issue is significant for a country like Vietnam that has fought wars for a thousand years just to preserve its own culture. Cultural anthropologists insist that the old Vietnamese culture was closer to that of India. Vietnam also has a rice growing culture and farmers wear conical hats and work all day in the field to make the country one of the largest exporters of rice. In the central part of Vietnam, it is possible to experience the full implications of how different civilizations clashed. The footprints of this interesting struggle are available in and around Danang. The third biggest city of Vietnam is a cultural and natural treasure trove. Besides a river weaving across the city, Danang also has one of the cleanest beaches on this side of the world. It has rolling green hills from where it is possible to get picture postcard views of the Danang Bay. During the Vietnam War in the 70s, Danang was a rest and recreation center for the tired American soldiers. Close to Danang is Misen, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has been witnessed to an interesting phase of Southeast Asian history. In the second century, Indian influence came to this part of Vietnam with the rise of the Champa Kingdom. The Champs, as they were called, were expansionists and fought long battles with the Vietnamese, Khmer and Chinese. They were also pirates and attacked passing ships. They attacked Khmer rulers and contributed to the collapse of the mighty Angkor Kingdom. Misen celebrates the power of Lord Shiva. For years, this ancient capital was in ruins. But now, the Vietnamese government, realizing the power of tourism to bring in mega-box and fund development projects, is turning this into a major center for cultural tourism. The remains of this great empire can be found both in the famous Champ Museum as well as in the periphery of Danang. Built by the French in 1915, Champ Museum is perhaps the finest of its kind in the world. Located on the riverfront, the architecture of the museum is such that the play of sun and shade enhances the beauty of these statues. Highly evolved in the intricate work, these images of Lord Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh shows the faith of the Champs in the Hindu Trinity. In the museum, there are also unique variations of the Shiva Linga. Most of these statues belong to ancient sites such as Misen, Indrapura and Simapura. Chinese influence is visible in the old port of Hoi An. Luckily, no bomb fell on this fairy-tale town during the Vietnam War and it looks wonderfully well preserved. It is a place where Chinese and Japanese merchants came and settled down, a place which is best covered on foot. Hoi An is an example of a cosmopolitan culture spawned by trade. Particularly interesting is the small Japanese bridge guarded by dogs. In the northern part of the country is the nation's capital, Hanoi. During the long-drawn Vietnam War, large parts of the city were devastated. But in the year 2001, there is no evidence of the havoc big bombs had on the city. History and its violence are now frozen in memory, museums and history books. But people have not really forgotten their past and their heroes. There is enormous respect for the contribution of the father of their nation, Ho Chi Minh, in the development of their country. Thousands queue every day to pay their respects to the imbalanced body of the great leader. The new part of Hanoi has a look of quiet efficiency about it. It has adapted itself to the new global reality where the market is the mantra. Hanoi also specializes in ceramics. This has become a major money spinner for the government. Vietnam was integrated after a bitter war in 1975, but it is still possible to sense the difference between the north and the south. And history is not the only reason. The southern part, which was under a U.S.-backed government before the country was reunified, compares well with any of the big Asian metropolises but without their crime and urban squalor. Earlier known as Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City throbs with excitement. Unarguably, the center of culture and business, Ho Chi Minh City represents a very aesthetic balance between modernity and tradition. Earlier, the capital of French-ruled Cochin China, the entrepreneurial temperament of Vietnamese people, finds full expression in this city. Ho Chi Minh City has emerged as the development pole of Vietnam. It has bustling markets where shops sell all kinds of goods. Ben Thanh is a sprawling indoors market in Ho Chi Minh City center, where everything that Vietnamese wear, eat, drink or use is on offer. It is a lively, exciting place for getting bargains. One of the most photographed buildings of Ho Chi Minh City is the People's Committee office. This French building stares at a European-style square where a huge Ho Chi Minh statue is placed. This square is a hangout for the tourists and souvenir sellers. Before the 1975 war, Ho Chi Minh City had a significant Indian population. The South Indian mosque and temples are evidence of the close links between the two people. The Vietnamese government is trying to leverage its strong hardware capability and strategic position to attract Indian IT companies to invest here. The government here believes that greater cooperation between the people of these countries would get a fillip once the full implications of the Ganga Mekong cooperation begin to unfold. Not far from Ho Chi Minh City, the great river of life Mekong splinters into small rivers to finally immerse in the South China Sea, Mitho, is a small town located in the Mekong Delta where all the attributes of a river civilization find full expression. It has small villages connected by road with monkey bridges. For villagers who live here, the Mekong is a vehicle for all their economic activities. It is literally a cornucopia of well-being that never really dries up. Mitho has a number of floating markets where villagers sell and buy their goods. In the early hours of the morning, small and large boats congregate to sell fish and fruits. Many of these markets just melt away as soon as the sun rises. For thousands of years, great rivers like the Mekong and the Ganga served as guides to a better world. They carried people and ideas to places which were agriculturally and civilizationally more fertile. Great civilizations and prosperous city-states were an outcome of nature's way to navigate people's destiny. In a world where ethnicity and culture have acquired greater primacy, the ancient bonds between the people of the two basins could serve as a starting point of a new order.