 Hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating video and today we're going to talk about a better way to fill small gaps and kind of stick things together. So we're going to talk about making a slurry. A slurry is when you take a nice empty glass jar and you do want a glass jar. You don't want something that's plastic, you'll see why in a moment. We take some plastic cement or plastic glue, in this case my preferred is Tamiya Extra Thin for this purpose, as you can see here in the back it's very much a liquid and so it's easy to pour and work with. And we take this thing that we all have, which is a sprue, a bunch of extra sprue. We all have some of it, it happens whenever you're working on a project, you get sprue. So the first thing you want to do is we're going to take some of that sprue and we're going to cut it down into little tiny baby pieces. So we take a nice big set of clippers, don't use your nice clippers, especially don't use a set of nippers for this. Sprue is very thick and heavy and so we get in here and we just kind of start making some little pieces, don't worry I'm not going to do this all on camera, I can already hear you freaking out, don't worry I'm just trying to show you basically what I do, we're not worried about them being super small, we just want some nice, small ish pieces. Smaller pieces will break down quicker, it'll all break down in the end, it doesn't really matter, it's just a question of you know, how long you want to wait for it to be ready. So we get some pieces like that, okay, about that size. Or we can have the stuff I already prepared beforehand, so there we go, we got all our little pieces. When we take our glass bottle, we're just going to put all our little pieces in here. Now I can't give you an exact volume estimate, but when you shake it out, you want it to kind of cover the bottom, you see how it's basically a nice flat amount over the whole bottom of the thing there, that's what you're aiming for, okay. So you've got a nice even layer of the plastic across the bottom of the thing, alright, one more little piece. I'm sure there's a couple that have jumped around my desk. Alright, so then we're going to take our extra thin cement. Now, if you're feeling particularly saucy, you can just go ahead and pour that straight in, you don't really need to do anything else, but obviously it doesn't pour super well. If you're going to use some kind of pipette, which you can do, you want to make sure that it's not, you want to make sure it's not plastic, because you will melt it with the plastic glue. I'm actually going to use the little thing that comes with it here, and we're just going to do the spoon trick, and we overspilt a little bit, that's alright. Okay, not too bad. It did do a nice job of erasing my nice grid line though there, that's pleasant. Plastic glue will eat a lot of stuff up, it's corrosive. Okay, so the amount we filled, you can see, when I tilt this sideways, you're not really going to be able to see, but you can see how it's just enough that it sits over the top of your layer. You want to have enough liquid, the balance here should be that you cut it, let me see if I can bring it up so you can actually see it, see as soon as I tilt it, we'll look inside. The point is it should be at the same level as the plastic. I don't think it's that complicated, folks. You get what I mean. Fill it up until all of the plastic is covered. Okay? Alright, so now that I've, that'll be a nice spot, I'll use that as my recording spot from now on, maybe I'll put a sticker there or something. Okay, and you can see I've still got quite a lot of plastic glue left, you don't need a lot of it to do this. Now the cool part, the bottle I'm using here, by the way, in case you are curious, is an old Daler Rowney FW ink bottle. This is one of my Payne's grays that is empty, and I just cleaned it out. I used alcohol and water and just let it sit there and then mixed it up and so on and so forth. The advantage to using the Daler Rowney bottles and why I like them is because this is a standard bottle cap. It's not the, you don't want to use this thing that's normally with those because the little pipette here that's on the end of the Daler Rowney ones, it's made of plastic. And it will just melt down in there. However, a normal bottle cap, which is just something like literally any normal bottle cap you get off of a bottle in the world like a 20 ounce bottle or something. Why look at that? Screws right on. Piece of cake. So now we put this in the oven and we just let it sit there. You can see how already it's starting to turn gray because all that plastic cement is just melting down that plastic. It'll take a little while. But in the end what you get is this. We're going to do the cake in the oven trick. This is a previous bottle I had already prepared. And you can see what you have now is just a big gray slurry, right? I go through a lot of ink. I do a lot of airbrushing. So here you can see that it's, I don't know if you can see on the side if you look right down here. This is a rough angle to fill that with a liquid. I'll put the cap back on so I can turn it a little more sideways. I'm not worried about spilling it. I hear you say, but Vince, the cap is plastic. Well, yeah, that's true, but I don't get the liquid near the cap very often. So whatever. If you want to go get a metal cap, you can. It'll take, like if you have the metal cap off of various bottles, it'll, those will fit as well. So you can see in there how it's just that nice little plastic slurry. Okay. That's all that's left. Now, brief note about how then to apply it. So first off, you want to make sure when you pick it up, you shake it. You know, much like, say a Polaroid picture, for example, is how I would shake it if I was you. You can also, if you like, use something like this. This is a little mixer it's made for labs and stuff like that to mix up samples. But of course you can, you can do it here as well. This is going to shake the camera like crazy. I apologize in advance. I will only do it for a second. And there you go. And that gives us a nice quick mix of it. I'll put this back to the side. These, by the way, you can order this one's from Lab Genius. I got this one off of Amazon. They are incredibly awesome for mixing, for mixing your paints and anything else you'd want to mix. So now that we have this all mixed up and ready to go, let's grab ourselves a little model where we need to do some gap filling. Here I happen to have one of my steam tanks for my whirlwinds edge army. You can see how insane this thing is, this little walker that I've made. That's one of my steam tanks. It's nice and goofy as I, as our every, as is everything in this army. But when we flip this bad boy to the side, you'll notice we've got these nice horrible, you notice a fall over, you notice you got these nice horrible gaps where the two scenery pieces fit together. Well, normally you'd have to deal with like putty or something like that to fix those, but who wants to do that, right? So instead, we're going to take an old sable brush that's been destroyed. So I, you want to use something that is real hair, not, not a synthetic, because synthetics can be, we'll just melt in this basically. But it's a sable hair brush. I mean, you'll ruin it. Don't use one of your nice brushes. Let me be very clear, you will ruin a brush, but this will last longer. You can actually rinse these out. So we just kind of get down in here, mix around a little bit, and then we just pull it out and we just push it down in that area. And we kind of just spread it around. You're basically just painting with it over the gap. It will start working more or less immediately. You notice how thick it is. You notice I'm being pretty gloppy and keeping big drops on there. I want that intentionally because it will melt into the plastic and settle down. So you want to add a little bit more than you kind of think you need to. Probably don't put a big drop like I just did on the bottom of the thing. That's not helpful. So we just kind of touch all our little gaps. What's nice is you can actually get like a pretty fine brush and be kind of careful with this. So you can get pretty fine gaps. Now once in a while, if it's a really, really big gap, puttying is still your answer. Okay, you can't cover like some massive gap. If there's like an eighth of an inch or something apart, that's not going to work. It's just the glue doesn't have enough stuff in it not to shrink down. But when it's a gap like this, you can see how it just covers it right up. Now that'll basically just sit there. It'll sink into the plastic a little bit and then dry and we're good to go. So I'm just going to leave it sit there. If you notice anything where there's kind of parts that are where it didn't quite cover, you can go in and get some new stuff, reactivate it. It's also a good idea to just let it dry. But you want to make sure you kind of smooth it out. You can still sand this down once it's all done. So nothing changes there because once it's totally dry, it will just be part of the plastic. It has melted the plastic into the plastic, the chemical reaction has happened and it can now completely bond. So I then just rinse off that little brush in some water over here. And my brush is more or less ready to go again. All right, we've got all our little plasticy goopy goop out of it. So I'm going to let that sit for a moment and I'll let it dry. It does take a little longer than normal plastic cement to dry because we have to, because there's so much of it, right? But you can see how already that gap is nice and covered. Sometimes it takes a second application. Sometimes it depends on how big your gap is. But it's just a super easy way to fill these kind of lines, especially where two pieces come together. So things like these leg joints are great. Like if you've ever put together an Imperial Knight, you know they have these leg joints. They're really annoying with these seams. So I'm just going to do this whole thing and then we'll come back and I'll show you what it looks like. So back in just a moment. All right, we're back. All the glue is dry. You can tell where I applied it because it gets all shiny because it's melted plastic. So, you know, hence it's kind of shiny. And now, and you can see, you know, it settled down, but the gap is gone. Now if we want to make sure it's kind of nice and flat because sometimes there can still be some bumpiness, you can grab a little file and we can just, you know, give that a nice quick file. Easy peasy, nice and flat. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy, good to go. If you don't care about that as much, you can see here on the back where I already filed it down. You'll notice that the big crack I had, the easiest way to always test whether or not you got rid of a crack is to just prime it. So because that will very quickly reveal any spots. And you can see we get a nice, flat, even space. No more crack in there. We're good to go. So, there you go. That's how you can make your slurry to just recover the basics. We start with some amount of sprue. You just want to cut that into pieces. Fill an empty glass bottle with a sort of even layer along the bottom or as much as you want. Basically, I go for this along the bottom because I don't want it to be too full. You pour in your Tamiya extra thin cement or your plastic glue of choice to a level where it comes up right above all of your little plastic pieces. Then you let it sit for about 24 hours. What you then get is something that looks like this. You want to use a nice old, old, worthless, other than this natural hair brush where it's not going to, where the bristles don't melt. I mean, here's that brush all cleaned out. It's still nice and it's the same. Nothing happened to it because you can rinse that stuff out. And then if you need to at the end, you can just sand it back down and you're good to go. So there we go. That's how you make a slurry to do some quick, simple gap filling. Again, great for those small areas like where two pieces come together in a mold. It's fantastic for that. So there you go. If you liked that, give it a like. Subscribe for additional hobby cheating in the future. If you have any questions about this, feel free to drop them down in the comments. If you have suggestions for future videos, feel free to drop those down there as well. Share and share a like with the video. That's always greatly appreciated. But as always, I very much appreciate you watching this one. And we'll see you next time.