 Hi what's up you guys, this is La Modeles and welcome back again to my YouTube channel. For this tutorial I will teach you guys on how to recreate the cocoon shaped sleeve which is popularized by Cristobal Balenciaga, Jesus Telpozo and reimagined by Sara Burton of Alexander McQueen. This design is so avant-garde and it is one of my favorite sleeve styles. So honestly it is not so easy to make but I have managed to recreate my own version of the pattern and I told myself why not share the creative process to the world. So prepare your tools and materials and let's recreate our own version of the cocoon sleeves. To start off, trace your basic sleeve pattern block on a piece of pattern paper. And do not forget to include the important notches such as the center line notch and so on. And establish the lines for center line, elbow line, and bicep line. From bicep line at underarm side seam, mark down 4 eighths of an inch or 1.2 cm. And mark out 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 cm from underarm side seam. From 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 cm marks, redraw the lines for the new side seam. From the 4 eighths of an inch or 1.2 cm marks, redraw the armhole. This is for the armhole enlargement. And label for reference. Next cut the patterns at the center line making 2 pieces. And as you can see I will work on the back pattern first. And from underarm side seam, mark in 2 fourth eighths inches or 6.3 cm. And from side seam at wrist line, mark in 1 fourth eighths inches or 3.7 cm. And square a diagonal line connecting both marks together. And let's do the same thing for the front pattern of the sleeve. And I am going to cut these new lines making new panels. So now I have 4 panels for the sleeves, 2 panels for the center line and 2 panels for the sides. In here from the center line, I attach a pattern paper for the enlargement. Next extend the elbow line. From elbow line at center line, mark out 5 fourth eighths inches or 13.7 cm. From extended elbow line, mark out 1 inch both sides. And square a line. At the upper part of the sleeve, from the cap at center line, mark down 6 eighths of an inch or 1.8 cm. And from this mark, mark out 3 eighths of an inch or 1 cm. From the 3 eighths of an inch mark, square a diagonal line towards the 1 inch mark at elbow line. Next get the halfway measurement of this line and mark. From the halfway mark, mark out 3 eighths of an inch or 1 cm. And draw a curve line on the first half. And a slight curve line on the second half using a straight ruler. Make it sure to hit the 3 eighths inch mark at the cap of the sleeve. At the lower part of the sleeve, from the 1 inch mark, square a diagonal line going towards the wrist at center line. Next get the halfway measurement of this line and mark. From the halfway mark, mark out 3 eighths of an inch or 1 cm. And draw a curve line on the first half. And an inverted curve line for the second half. And for the back pattern, I'll do the same procedure. And now we have enlarged the patterns by making a cocoon shape at the center line. For this pattern, we have two sections, the upper section and the lower section. And from the seam line and new center line, we are going to establish lines for depleting. From the elbow line at seam line, mark up 7 slash lines with a measurement of 6 eighths of an inch or 1.8 cm in between. Next from elbow line at center line, mark up 7 slash lines with a measurement of 1 6 eighths inches or 4.3 cm in between. Next, connect and match these marks creating multiple slash lines for the pleats. For the lower section from elbow line at seam line, mark down 5 slash lines with a measurement of 5 eighths of an inch or 1.5 cm in between. Next from elbow line at center line, mark down 5 slash lines with a measurement of 1 2 eighths inches or 3.1 cm in between. Next, connect and match these marks creating multiple slash lines for the pleats. The elbow line will also be a slash line for the pleat. And do the same procedure for the front pattern of the sleeve. From the seam line, cut out the slash lines but not fully or beyond. Next, get another piece of pattern paper for spreading. For each slash line, spread it open by 1 6 eighths inches or 4.3 cm and use a sticky tape and tape it in place. Next, from the sleeve cap, at the upper section, match the lines and fold downwards. From the wrist line at the lower section, match the lines and fold upwards. Once you have folded the pleats or slash lines, establish your desired sewing allowance and cut out from the paper. For me, I have used 4 eighths of an inch all over my patterns. And these are my patterns for the cocoon shape of the sleeve. I also drew the lines for the notches to avoid confusion. For the cocoon sleeve, we are going to connect it to the side panels. For the back and front side panels, I am going to connect them both at the side seam, making a whole new pattern. Also, don't forget to put your desired sewing allowance. So now, I am going to cut out the patterns on my fabric. And snip out the notches for my sewing reference. And FYI, I have placed this pattern on the green line of my fabric. Next, connect both back and front sleeve at the new center line. And on the curvy parts, snip it out to ease the tension. Next, press the seams open for a clean finish. Starting at the upper part, fold the pleat lines and pin in place. After folding the pleat lines, sew the pleats in place to hold the folds. And prepare the side panel for sewing. Next, sew the cocoon shape of the sleeve onto the side panel to complete the whole sleeve. So, here is the end result of the cocoon sleeve. Et voila! And here's how the sleeves look like attached on a basic bodice. So if you can see here, I have achieved the cocoon shape for the sleeve by enlarging and creating multiple pleats to give it a voluptuous volume. Anyway guys, comment down below if you have any questions and I'll make it short to answer as quickly as possible. And I hope this tutorial gave you enough tips on how to create a cocoon-shaped sleeve. And don't forget to give this video a huge thumbs up and subscribe to my YouTube channel Lamo the Least and I will see you guys again on the next tutorial. A piento!