 Hello boys and girls, welcome to part 8 of the Subaru Sirius. Now it's been a while, I've been busy with the Jeep and under small stuff. And I am way behind on these videos. But in today's video, the intake manifold gets installed, bunch of the harnesses, the plugs, just wiring overall, and some of the open lines like coolant passages, vacuum lines and stuff will get plugged up. The exhaust manifold gets installed and the turbo joins the party. Did you notice there is less flickering? I've been working on new LED lights. And here are those old old lights, fluorescent bulbs that were up before. They're still flickering. I don't know, it's probably the camera. I actually did change the lights because of the flickering. I had pretty decent lighting before without having LEDs. And this camera is still doing it. It was sent out for repairs. I'm not gonna mention right now what kind of camera this is. But I will soon because I'm getting frustrated. Anyways, you know what to do if you're new here. Like, subscribe, comment and enjoy the video. I believe it's time for the intake manifold to go on. I'm going to remove this line here, this hose. Looks like we're in. Easy access to this pipe should be good. All right, these are 12 mil bolts. Torx specs are 18.1. I'm going to start with the ones in the middle. Kind of do a two step. Get it up to maybe seven, eight, nine. I'm going to work my way out. I'm going to go to the other side. I'm going to recheck all of them as I always do. Now it's a matter of connecting all the different connectors. So let's start in the back. This is the knock sensor. This is for the brake booster. This is another EVAP line. This is not getting connected as well. As far as the EVAP system goes, what I'm going to do, this is the main line. What I'm going to do, I'm going to mount it somewhere here and just, it's just going to dangle here on its own. Something like this over here. This is from the boost gauge. That's going to get a vacuum somewhere, I can remember. And that's the brake booster here. And these fuel lines. Fuel lines here and here. I believe this is the pressure line. This is the return. And this is getting the brake booster. All right, let's get this mess cleaned up. All right, so injector was the camshaft sensor. Ah, this I don't remember. This is another injector. And this is your ACV valve here. Oh man, we got a problem. We got a problem. Or maybe not. I can actually twist the, let me show you. What I mean. See, I didn't look at it before. I should have. See where the injector connects? The connector is facing this way. I need to twist it. So it's facing me this way. So I can plug it in. I did put oil there. So it should be okay to just to twist them without taking them out or loosening the fuel rail here. Yep, it's actually going easy. You just have to get in there. Okay, perfect. No problem. There we go. And this probably goes into the the TGVs right here. Remember, I did a video on modifying the TGVs. These are basically your TGV deletes, but from an 07. Anyways, this plugs there to the motor. And there's one in the back. So these two are going to be homeless now. So once the engine is going to be in, I'm just going to take care of them later on. Okay, moving on to the front. Here was a temperature sensor for the coolant. Which one would that be? Okay, this one. Okay, here. This is the one for the oil pressure switch. There we go. This is your crank. Crank shaft sensor right here. And this little guy. Where is your home? And this guy. Okay, we're going to come back to these. Let's take care of that injector because I bet you it's facing the wrong way. Yes it is. So let's take care of this hose here. I'm going to have to get rid of this. For now at least. Okay, I thought I was slowly ripping these wires off. I'm going to take that off. Take these ground wires off for now. So I don't break it. Trying to see, because this is, remember, oh this is different now. This fuel rail, it sticks out. So it's in the way now. Just trying to find out the best living accommodations for the harness. At the same time figuring out which plug goes where. So this is the injector. This is the TGV. See this one. Okay, let's take care of the injector. Okay, and that's the TGV. These, I don't know where these are. Yeah, these three are on the car. That should be fine. I should have access to this, the oil catch can line. I'm going to remove this fuel hose. Yeah, good luck with that. Or maybe bend this one out somehow. There we go. It didn't click because I was holding the tab with the screwdriver. It is in. These I don't know where they go. We'll find out later. All right, a little update. These two are for the coils. This is for the ECU, all three here. Here I tied up these TGV plugs. They're not going to be in use anymore. This I'm going to run a, this is just a vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator. This is going to go probably to here. This is going to get blocked off. This is going to get blocked off. Or I don't know, we'll see. Maybe I'm going to run this line here. We'll see. Most likely here. So blocked off. These two are for the alternator. This is going to get blocked off. So it just doesn't, so it looks better. Brake booster. Here I tied this up, made this bracket here. Drilled a hole just to hold this harness in place. This is for the fuse box coils. Here are the hoses. We're going to do a get a dam cylinder for cooling mod right in here. Actually I'm going to do it soon before I put the engine back in. Here are the hoses. This is going to get blocked off. I just need to get some kind of rubber plugs or whatever. These two are going to get blocked off. This I already mentioned. Oil catch can for the crankcase. And yep, if we all know what this is going to be. That's basically it. The turbo and all the oil lines still needs to go on here and the uppipe and the exhaust manifold. That's all going to go in here before the engine goes into the car. All I got to do is get a new uppipe gasket. For this, for the gasket that goes for the damp pipe. I'm going to get a copper spray sealant. I'm going to reuse this gasket. Looks pretty good. Maybe torque it down a pound or two more. But this one is actually in bad shape. All right let's flip this engine over and install one of the last coolant lines. So this one was a bit rusty. Check it out now. Same high temperature paint as this. High temperature primer, high temperature paint and then high temperature clear coat. Trial to always use clear coat it will make these parts last much longer. This is the bottom of the oil pump here. As you can see it's not going to be touching the oil pump, this bracket here. See all this space because of this part here. The 10 mil oil pump the stock one that was on here had to be different. So what to do I'm probably just gonna maybe just install a washer there or go through the trouble and grind this off. Actually it would be better if this was a bit closer because of this hose here. It's not too bad. If I'm going to grind this off I'm going to have to repaint it. I'm going to grind that off. All right basically what I did. I bought this assortment of vacuum plugs from Arozone, dormant by dormant. And with different sizes still deciding on what to do if I should connect the pressure the fuel pressure regulator here or here. But just to show you what I did one more here and then this one. The important ones I put zip ties on them. All right let's flip this over. All right let's get back to this coolant line. So I did grind this off and I just sprayed primer on it. They're much better. Now I can sleep at night. Had to do some welding. This whole this this heat shield came loose on me. Here we go there and here. All right before I put the exhaust manifold on I need to put this oil line back in. All right the torque specs are 21.4. I think that's for all of the banjo bolts that attach to the the heads. So it's 21.4 I'm doing 22. Torque specs for these is 29. I'm also going to do it in two steps. Bring it up to about halfway 13-15. Hopefully I won't have to take it off. Now the bracket for the AC compressor and alternator. Now either this one or the one on the other side bolt had red glue on it. You can see I already cleaned it off but there is a little bit left. What I'm going to do I'm going to put blue blue stuff on it. I'm going to put blue blue blue on all of them. As usual I forgot about something the turbo inlet pipe. As you can see I bought a paring turbo inlet pipe. It is bigger with a bigger inlet. Anyways this should go before you kind of just lay it down in this area here before you install the intake manifold. Hopefully this will fit. Right now this is in the way. All right I'm not sure if this is enough or it looks like it's going to go through. So I'm pretty sure the stock ones will not fit without removing the intake the manifold because of this. So this is much higher. All right that's good. I'm going to leave that for now and we're going to move on to the turbo. Since I got it out I thought for those who don't know or have no idea how a turbo works I would just kind of demonstrate or just do a quick explanation simple explanation. It's really it's two parts to a turbo. Your hot side and your cold side. What makes it spin is your exhaust gases. So this is you're going to see it see me connect this to the uppipe. Basically when you give it gas the more gas you give your car the engine will spin faster. RPMs go up engine spins faster it generates more exhaust gases. Those gases first get through here. This is your inlet goes through the headers then through your uppipe. Here so this is what I mean. So the first as your exhaust valves open the exhaust fumes or gases whatever they come out these pipes there's four pipes right or four exhaust outlets whatever you want to call this out of the cylinder heads. So they go up here here here through here they meet with the other two from the passenger side so these are the driver's side this is the passenger side they go they meet they all the all four they all meet here and they go and so from here to here that's your uppipe so it goes through here then it spins this turbine right here okay and then as it goes through the turbine it spins it and then right here the downpipe is connected and it dumps the exhaust through the downpipe out your exhaust out your muffler basically this turbine is connected with a shaft to this turbine to your cold side okay so you can see I'm going to spin the the hot side that that other turbine I just showed see they both are connected to each other so as that one spins this one spins at the same speed the faster the exhaust or the hot side turbine spins the faster the cold side spins so on the cold side this is your intake or your inlet I should say and this is your outlet that turbo inlet pipe I just installed connects to here to the inlet pipe the air filter the engine air filter is connected so clean air goes through here and it goes out this way as it comes out this way it goes into the intercooler then inside the intercooler it gets compressed the air gets compressed and cooled so the faster this spins so this will actually this turbine will actually suck in air from the outside through that engine filter so the faster you go the faster this spins the more air goes in so that that compressed air is basically forced in inside your engine that's pretty much it the the shaft inside it's also it needs oil okay so that's your oil line here oil connection continues here yeah for some of you may have noticed there is a crack on the waste gate it's been like that for years it didn't get any bigger I'm gonna I'm not gonna even gonna worry about it and what I probably should mention since this is all exposed the famous boxer noise we all know it's mainly because of these headers the way they are designed it's basically where these gases from all four cylinders meet these are unequal headers unequal length headers you can do an upgrade and get yourself equal length headers where these the distance between what is it the passenger side and the no excuse me that's this is the driver's side and the passenger will be the same the length of these pipes will be the same but since the stock ones are unequal length they're different it's where these gases meet you know the explosion where where it actually meets it makes that rumble these where this part was the same length as this it would usually it makes some kind of a sort of a inline four noise kind of like an evo I was gonna say Honda but not really but it's kind of it doesn't have a rumble anymore it it's more smooth so yeah so that's the main reason there are other reasons as well but this is the main reason all right so I did clean both surfaces with a wire brush by hand okay this whole area here and the mating surface on the turbo I'm gonna install the gasket get yourself a new gasket you don't want any leaks this is the inlet you don't want any leaks over here oh the hell okay let's see I'm probably gonna have to remove some stuff let's see if this is gonna fit yeah this line has to go so that's a 17 I won't be able to torque it down which is a bummer really it looks like the turbo should go in first then everything else including the intake yeah this isn't the way to put this back because it looks like the turbo will fit this was what 37 or 29 something like that if I am going to develop an oil leak I'll just tighten it down a bit more until there is no oil leak so I'm going to remove this all right let's try this again here I'm actually trying to install that coolant line as well at the same time I should probably put a little bit oil I'm gonna put a little bit of oil around this guy so I won't be able to tighten down the turbo until I get it off the stand because this bolt is still in the way that's all right