 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools, quality tools, essential support. All right guys, what's up? Today we are working on a walk-in cooler here. Got a little biohazard stuff inside there. It's all warm. Nothing major, just PPE stuff that probably might be contaminated. Anyhow, it's not wanting to run. Just popped this top off of it. Got a green-site glass, motor looks oily. Coil, can't tell if it's really that dirty or not. We're going to check and see what's causing it not to run. The evaporators are running down below and I'm kind of just wondering do we have a fan? Yep, might have a fan out. High pressure switch trip. Looking at that fan motor there, looks like it very likely could be bad. Couple of gauges on it. Ooh, look at that. That's not good. Holy mackerel. That's just ass is going to be snapped off. The fan came on, but I still have my lingering doubts on it. I'm going to replace that fan motor. We'll let it run for a minute here. We'll see how that condenser fan looks, certain denser fan. Yeah, just the condenser coil looks. Let's test out our fan control there. We'll shut that off by pushing down on that and when it kicks on, we're going to hold this. You see how much starting torque this thing has. I'm also going to see where it kicks on at. 150. That's quite a, there it's coming on. I mean, it's got pretty good starting torque. Makes me think the motor's not really that bad, unless it's got a bad spot. Let's see where it trips out at here. Maybe it's false in too early. About 215-ish area. Not very high. It's double what it's running, but coil seems a little dirty too. At least it feels warm. The receiver's definitely warm. I'm thinking what we need to do is replace the motor, wash the coil, adjust that pressure switch. It's pretty, pretty clean. I mean, it's got some restriction in there for sure, but I'm going to wash that out and then see if we can get numbers off that motor. Adjust that up. It's a little higher on the pressure trip and see where we're at. This thing just came back on. I don't understand how that clicks if it's auto reset. I wonder if we got a pressure switch that's not functioning. Reached that one time, but not the next. Kind of weird. Come over here. This is where we're working at. So it is getting cooler in here already. A little bit of a rattle trap. I'm going to wash this out too. If there's anything to trip out, I'm going to try to make this thing run as best as possible. Give it a fan shut off here when it gets cold. Our head pressure looks like it came down a little bit. Looks a little better than it did. We added a piece of split tubing here. I took a regular poly tubing and quarter inch split razor knife, split it on there. That's what we've done here in the past. Keeps these things from vibrating and breaking off. It also protects them from rubbing into things. Works really well. I got the numbers off the motor. Evaporator's clean. What I think I'm going to do, get that motor ordered, get a new one. I'll put some oil in it for now to keep it going. But I have my lingering doubts about that pressure control. Why did it reset one time and not the next? So I'm really thinking it may not be a bad idea to replace it too. You can see that button there. How much it vibrates. It's not looking very good. We're going to go ahead and replace this fuel pressure switch. I talked to the guy in charge. He okayed it. So we're going to go and pump her down. We'll get that switch replaced and we're going to order that motor. Both of them are pretty wore. The whole unit's old. I mean it used to be or might still be R as well. That's what it looks like. Now when it does pump down, the liquid line will stop here and it'll go blank as you can see. But this here will have pressure on it. We've got it pumped down here at the receiver. Now we're going to valve off the suction and discharge lines at the compressor that will isolate just the compressor from the rest of the circuitry. You figure the pressure is from the discharge to the receiver is still live. So when we valve that off it's going to have just a little bit in the piston area but then we'll be fine after that. We're going to take this off. We'll reuse it. No sense of splitting it all over again. It is a pain in the butt to split that stuff. Make it a little easier. So we've got our lume on there. All of our lines are away from anything sharp. So it comes down up. It's wire tied there. Comes across. Got relief bins here. Everything should be fine. Got that new piece there. So should be able to let her roll again and get the power turn back on. Yeah, make sure you use the nylog on the flare fittings. That way it lubricates the front and back of the flare and it turns right without scalding or galling the copper. Now we should be able to open up our suction and now we've got to do a test to make sure our cutout is set correctly. I've got it set somewhere in the 20 to 25 range with a 15 to 20 degree or 15 to 20 psi differential. So we'll do that here in a second. Make sure we get our discharge open back up otherwise you'll have a bad day. It comes back on. Grattle trap going on. So I don't know where my suction gauge went. I think I lost it. Of course nobody ever turns anything back into you. So we're going to go ahead and just valve off the suction and see where let's see yeah it should work out just fine. So valve this off. See where she cuts out at. It's still about the same resolution as half of the 410A gauge sets out there so it'll work fine. Not so good. Okay let's go ahead and adjust that a little bit. I might have to grab my other gauge. Should work. Revalving it off there. That should pull down on that one there. Hopefully I hooked the right ones up. I think I did. Yeah I'm almost positive I did. Oh you know I think I did do it wrong. Ah yeah I made a mistake. I was visually thinking left side suction. It's not. So we had to put our cap back on there otherwise it'd be obviously getting squirted. So we're gonna pump it back down. Do exactly what we just did and we'll switch those two around. Made a mistake. It happens. Got that corrected. Let's go ahead and open this liquid back up. Freakin' rattled crap. Let's look at a PT chart here and see what 12 would be for kick on in cold weather. I'm gonna go with our coldest outdoor temperature. Forgot how low 12 runs. Holy cow. So we're gonna adjust this thing somewhere along the 10-15 inch range for cut in. When you get that low you start getting into the area where your degrees is your pressure. It's pretty much corresponding together. So let's see how that comes in there. Revalve that thing off on the suction side. Watch her go down. Yeah that's way too low. Yeah we're gonna have to switch that differential a little bit. Just turn back up. About 15-ish. We got the valve still partially open so we're coming on about 15. And let's see where we shut off that. Yeah that don't like that. We're gonna have to do it off the liquid side. Yeah it's a little bit screwy there. I don't know how these valves hold or not. We'll make rapid cycles. We're gonna watch for it. Yeah cut out. It's still going. I don't like it going down that low. So let's just raise the cut in a little bit there. See how that does. Let's crack this a little bit. 15, valve her back off. There we go. Kevin Compass from Advanced Refrigeration Podcast. He says he likes to do it with the nitrogen tank or whatever at the refrigerant tank and uses gauges back of the truck and I can see how that would definitely make it a lot easier. As you can see it's not holding real wonderful because the valves probably didn't or either aren't holding or we're leaking a little through or we still had enough refrigerant in the system and it doesn't want to come you know go completely down. Let's go ahead and kick it one more time. We may have to tweak it just a little bit and run a little lower than we want because I don't want this to rapid cycle. So 15, valve it off. Yeah it's about two. It's not quite where I want. Let's go ahead and do the differential this time. Just a little bit of a spring turn there. See how that goes. We're gonna have to get real close to zero. Otherwise she's gonna rapid cycle back and forth. It's been forever since I've done an R12 style system so I don't remember exactly where we normally set it at. I know the box is going to be in the 30s outdoor temperature. Although it's pumped down it's still going to sense off the temperature of the evaporator so in theory it really don't matter what the outdoor temperature is but it can. So it's just one of the things where you got to balance it all. There's one, two pounds and she's going to hold under 10. That's why a lot of people sometimes run over and they will run into a negative a little bit because they know it's going to come back up but it still don't make it right because if you lose the refrigerant it's going to just keep on going and going and going. The degrees are cut in just a touch more. I think we have about 15 degrees. I don't you know honestly I think we're going to leave it alone. Let's leave it there see how it does. So like I said we're going to go ahead and order a new motor for that condenser. We got the new switch on there with high pressure. We probably could test that make sure it cuts out and then just get this thing's order and we'll come back. Okay they set it at about 300 area. I don't know if that's quite where I want to be at but is it 225 before? We may adjust that just a touch. I cranked it in until I hit where I wanted to hit at so we did hit. I don't think we're ever going to hit that high any other time so good enough for that. That will protect us there. Let's go ahead and get this thing back together. Hit the reset once it drops down low enough and we should be good to go. Now what I'm going to do because that motor is probably going bad and maybe it worked one time maybe it won't the next. God dang it. They sure put this crap in there where you can't hardly get to anything. Go ahead and get this thing palved off and then pump it back into the system here. Hit the button. We're going to go ahead and screw that down so that it's actually auto resetting until we get back. I don't want to have to worry about that while we're gone. It's the weekend so it's going to be at least a few days to get it. All right so we got it cranked in. Go ahead and get our date on here. Green do that when we come back. But yeah one wire tie there and we are good to go. Before we trash it I wanted to check and see what my pressure was before and it was 15, 17 this area which is exactly where we're at now. So to work before it should work again. Going to oil up that motor and then get her done. All right box at temperature at the door open. Grab a hold of the bulb. Let's go back up there and oil that motor. The old zoom spout to see if that helps give me some extra time just in case. But that's going to wrap this one up. All right guys if you enjoyed the video and you want to see more like it please give it a thumbs up. Don't forget to subscribe. Check me out on Instagram and until next time catch you on the next one. Later.