 Welcome back to another day in the Bay, Mr. De'Hereville. Very jovial. Well, you know, it's Friday. Do I have to be jovial? Nope. You can be your plain old boring self. I mean, whoa! Whoa! What have we got in today, Dale? So, we have a VR6 Mark III Golf, and it was Adam who won our day in the bay competition on Instagram. He did a bit of Instagram stalking on his page, and I kind of scrolled for and saw this and asked if he could bring this, and he was well at bringing it as it's a project for you now. You've inherited it as a project. So, what's the plan with it? What are we going to focus on today? So, the focus on is the pink paint. So, we're going to revive that and bring it back to glossy red. Hopefully, teach these guys a few things. Nice. And give it some nice protection as well, because obviously, this time of year, cars get absolutely hammered. So, yeah, the main focus in it is really reviving that tired red. Sweet. We'll come back in a minute and talk about products. Cool. So, we're going to be talking about waterless washing first. So, that's why I like to have one black towel, one yellow towel. Right. So, we're going to be using the ultimate waterless washing wax. Okay. Now, if you get to a show and event, or like a mid-week clean, and you don't have access to water, grid guards, wash mitts, we're comfortable using, this is the safest way of cleaning the car. Okay. Now, a lot of people in the past clean their cars. It shows with detailers. Yeah. But detailers are actually finishing products. Right. So, actually, it can remove like fingerprints and dirt, but it's actually for gloss enhancement and protection. Now, I know it's very hypocritical for me to say that and present you with something that looks like a detailer. Yeah. It's actually a sprayable shampoo. So, what it does encapsulates the dirt and grime on the surface and safely lubricates it away. Okay. And then you can go around with a detailer to finish it off. Yeah. All right. So, like I say, sometimes, you know, cleaning a car at a show with a detailer kind of looks good at the show, but you could be causing a bit more damage than you want to. So, the reason I've got two different color cloths out, because once you've kind of really sprayed it on there, get it nice and lubricated. Like I say, you can use this on the wheels, glass, anything like that. Okay. Get your first towel and kind of wipe in nice, clean, straight lines. The reason I picked the towel up like that is so I've constantly got a nice, clean bit of towel rubbing on the paintwork. Okay. And then with the second towel, buff in the opposite way. This way, you'll never get white lines, ever. Okay. That's all right. Yeah. So, it's the same with detailers, glass, wax, yeah. So, you never get white lines on the car. No, that's mad. We always tell people if you can get it looking 70 to 80 percent in here, outside look absolutely flawless. Yeah. So, a lot of people kind of beat themselves up when they're in here. But this is a very exaggerated environment. Yeah. Cool. So, now we've got the products. You want to, like I say, because it's Friday, I want to do it as little as possible. So, if you guys want to get involved, like, pick a half of the car each. Cool. And get the paint on the other side of the one. Yeah. I like that. Red is the most common color for fading. I wish I knew the scientific reason why it does it. I guess it's just like oxidization. Yeah. And it kind of bleaches it. The UV rays seem to damage it a lot easier. Yeah. And you just see that pinkiness coming through. So, that's going to be our main focus today. Using the ultimate compound, which we shout and rave about all the time. Yeah. But it really is a hero product. It really does work incredibly well. We're going to be getting the machine polisher out. Get these guys using that. One certain aspect, we'll probably be using it by hand as well. But, mainly, we're going to get the machine polisher out. Yeah. Really revive it up. So, we're just going to do a quick test panel. Correct? Exactly that. I'm pretty confident about what this is going to do for the paintwork. So, we're going to try on a pretty obvious place. So, we're going to do the mirror. Yeah. So, even coat pad, because these are very plastic. And we want to be very gentle. It is old paint. So, it's not always a case that you get a machine out. You know, if a little soot layer is like this, always try hand application first. Just in case that's all it needs. Like a DA polisher as well, you prime the pad. I always like to prime the pad. It just means I've got a longer buffing cycle. Now, I know I'm applying it by hand, but because it is faded paint, we want to spend a bit more time working on it. The reason this is so good for faded colours is because it contains paint cleaners, which brighten the colour. So, those chemical cleaners kind of remove that oxidation and bring it back to its natural colour. Common with older paints, especially red, they can be single stage, which means that when you are working it using a compound or a polish, you may get colour transfer. If it is single stage, you will get colour transfer. It's not a problem. It's just you are removing that damaged layer of paint and you kind of need that to get that fresh, vibrant colour underneath. So, don't worry about it. Don't worry about it. Don't worry about it. Don't worry about it. Don't worry yourself. Whenever I'm using it, I just draw a line down the middle. Like that. And then I kind of just prime the pad like that. This way you can use it for longer. It doesn't dry up. So, if you want to finish, do you want to have a go on the other one? Yeah, they're cool. Stamp out the area you want to work. So, two hands on the machine. You'll notice it's quite a heavy machine. So, there's no need for you to bear down. Just use the weight of the machine itself. This hand is your balance. That's making sure that pad is always flat. Now, if you get it flat, it means you'll get an even polish. But also, you won't get a zigzag line. Have you ever seen a car after a machine polish? It's got a kind of snail trails all over it. Sometimes in the sun. It's because someone didn't have it flat. So, keep it flat with that hand. This hand is your guide. Telling the machine where to go. Now, I hold it there because I like to be close to the paint. But, for the first time users, on the handle is fine. The main thing is to relax. Because the tighter you hold onto it, you're going to feel that vibration all the way through to the shoulder. Then, after a whole car, it just becomes drainage. So, the more you relax, the easier it is. Cool. So, I'm going to set the speed to the slowest. I'm going to pull the trigger and just quickly spread the area. So, you know how we prime the pad? Yeah. Prime the surface. Okay. And always start and stop it on the panel. That way, that doesn't get problems all over the place. Okay. So, you see on here, we've got swirl and defect removal. Four, eight to five, eight. I always go slap bang in the middle of those two. Okay. Yeah. And then we're going to do, I call it hashtag polishing. Yeah. So, we're going to go up and down, then left and right. Okay. Did you start at a specific corner? Yeah, start at a corner. Yeah. And go about an inch per second. Okay. So, slower you go, the quicker it gets done. Right. Okay. That's what I'm talking about. That's an easy thing. Yeah. So, what we do, we get the towel, take the head of the product off one way, flip the towel. All the way. Over. Oops. My bad. Happy with that? Pretty happy, yeah. Especially when you look at it here, it's crazy. I'll tell you. Yeah. That's so different. Yeah. You can actually see the light. It's more clearly. It's nuts, isn't it? Yeah. Great. So, we can see now that this has got quite a lot of colour transfer. Definitely, yeah. Like we mentioned earlier, working on single stage order paints, you're going to get that. So, if you are machine polishing, it's very important to clean your pad because this is going to be now full of paint residues. You can see on my hand. And you don't want that clogging up the pad because it's just going to take forever to revive the paint. And you're kind of, you're not doing anything good. If that makes sense. Yeah. So, you want to maintain the pad after each section. The easiest way of doing that. Most people have hoovers to hand. So, they just want to drag out those kind of dried paint residues. It's always going to stain the pad. That's not a problem. You just want to free up those pores and allow it to breathe again. So, you can work the paint. This is part Canoeba, part synthetic. So, the reason I'm using Canoeba on your colour is because it's naturally yellow and toffee coloured. Yeah. Which means it gives a solid gloss like this, a real brightness. Now, we have like synthetic, fully synthetic waxes, like the ultimate in the NXT. You use them on darks and metallics. Right. Because the synthetic haze goes to a clear, which means it makes a metallic pop. Okay. Now, for solid colours like this, we always use Canoeba-based wax. Now, for the whole bonnet, all you want to do is put the pad on the wax, half a turn, that's it. Whole bonnet. Yeah. And then we're just going to put three lines. Yeah, exactly. You use way too much. Three lines across it like that. And then just go across the lines like that. Okay. Just one pass. That's it. Does it matter if you do circles or straight lines? It really doesn't matter. No. Okay. And the reason we're using this straight after the compound with polishing oils, it means it's going to refine it and protect it in one stage. Now, with a solid colour like this, you don't necessarily have to use a polish. Yeah. Because you use a polish to refine a dark colour after compounding. But with a colour like this, if you've got it to a pretty good finish, which you guys have, go straight in with the wax.