 So today we're going to cut a one length Bob really excited to share with you guys this technique. A lot of you guys were asking for it. We're going to go through all the different technical things that create a really nice one length Bob. Choice of tools today. What we're going to be using is a YS Park. This is the YS Park 339 comb. I really like this one for precision cutting. And then I'm using the same scissor as yesterday. This is the scissor that Mizetani made for me. There's a few left on freeslawneducation.com. If you want one, don't know if it'll ever be there again. What I really want to focus on first is this the sectioning. Sectioning is very simple. I started off right where the parting is on the left hand side. We took that section all the way down and then once I got to the crown area, that's where I shift this line to a slight diagonal and then go right down the center back. And then after I create that line in the center back, I go from the occipital bone across to just behind a little bit below the ear and a slight diagonal forward line. All right, so again, you want to make sure you have even saturation. When you're trying to create a precise line, you don't want some of the hair to be dry. Some of it to be wet, dry hair shrinks a little bit. So make sure that when you're doing the part that you want to be precise that you have even saturation throughout. So with body positioning, I want to have the head nice and high, almost like chest level with me. The way that I do this in the salon is a lot of times the chair doesn't quite go this high. I'll sit so I can get my eyes kind of level with the haircut. The biggest mistake that we make as hair cutters is a lot of times we'll kind of tilt ourself to cut a line to get our head kind of down. And when you do that, you tilt your eyes and when you tilt your eyes, it's hard to cut a straight line. Anytime you're cutting, feet should be pretty much square with your shoulders. Bend your legs into it. Keep your back straight so you're not hunched over like this cutting. Then you keep your eyes flat. Your eyes parallel with your scissor and then you cut your line. That's going to give you a straighter line across. I'm going to use the wide teeth of the comb as little tension as possible. Hold the hair in the comb just like this. I'm going to go about a half an inch from the hairline. For me, the longer you go, the harder it is that you're going to get that stack or that kind of it's going to get too bulky. You could cut a one length as long as you wanted. But for me, like when you're in the grocery store and you see that person that has that really blunt haircut and it just looks weirdly stacked in the back and really thick, a lot of that comes from length choice and density. So about an inch or half an inch from the hairline. I'm going to come through here, everything parallel and start my line. Now I'm not going to go too extreme with the first bit of the cut. I just want to start to get my guide in there. Then I'm going to come through my eyes are level. I'm not even combing at this point and I'm going to continue that line across. Just using the tip of the scissor to cut through. The reason I use the tip of the scissor and not all of the scissor is because once the hair ends up in this area of the blade, it starts to push the weight. So if I came in here and I just kind of started hacking at the hair, it would push that and then I would get a weird line. So I go in just with the tip and work my way across. I'm shifting my body because of the fact that I'm trying to show you guys in the salon, I would not be walking around like this. So I comb the hair down. I keep my eyes square and I go through and I cut and continue that line. If I wanted to follow the head shape around, then I would just continue this line through. I want to bring this hair back just a slight bit, a little bit of over direction. So what I'll do is I'll slide my scissor up under and my comb and I'll pull it back towards me and then follow through with my cutting that way. What that'll do is just push a little bit of weight into this corner area. So I'll do the same thing on the opposite side. Got this little bit left here. So I'll pick it up, slide my comb up underneath, tap it down into the comb and then I'm going to go back hand across just like that. So now I want to look at my line. If this line doesn't work, then you don't want to move forward because the whole entire haircut will be off at that point. So you can step back, take a look at it, make sure that those lengths are good. Anytime I lift this and pull it back, that over direction gives a little bit of elevation. So then when you drop it down, you'll see some of those little hairs that kind of stick out. I just take a slight bit of that off, not a lot of it. And I want to keep that line. I want to keep that length. I just clean it up a little bit. All right, I'm going to work at about a half inch at a time straight across on the head. So a nice clean parting, comb it down, get this hair over, and then I slide my clip up underneath the hair just like that. And that helps hold it up and tight out of the way. The other thing I'm not doing is I'm not tilting the head too much forward. It's just a slight tilt forward. Really, that's just because we're working on a one length. So I want to make sure that I'm constantly looking at it from the way that she's going to be wearing it. Really, what I'm looking for is I want this hair to rest up against the other hair. Comb this down just like that, and then I go through and cut the first bit. And then on the edge in the corner, I slide my comb up underneath and I cut across just like that. Now, I like to go both sides and work through. Because I'm cutting this all square in the back, I don't mind kind of working my way back and forth, making sure that it looks nice and balanced the whole way through. All right, last bit, slide that comb underneath. Again, just using that tip. Now, if I was going to create a graduated bob, I would do pretty much exactly what I just did. And then at this point, when I get over the occipital bone, I would start to slightly elevate the hair, bringing it up to this part. A lot of people start their graduation right away, which is fine. But for me, I like to have a little bit of extra density down at the bottom because the head shape curves in. And then as the head shape starts to curve away, that's when I start to elevate it. Because right now you can see I really have a nice light kind of shape to it because of the head shape. So you got to take into consideration what the head shape is doing and how that affects your haircut. All right, so comb tension coming through, cutting, and then underneath, lift. And this will be a little repetitive as I work through it. But then we're going to blow it dry and I'll do some dry cutting detail work. So you guys can see that as well. So now we're coming around to where it's going to tie into the temple area. So I take another parting and this one comes all the way around the head. Then I'm going to figure out where the kind of the corner is in the head shape. That's what I'm going to over direct back to me a slight bit. So I look at where that corner is. I bring that back to me just a little bit there, cut my line. I let that fall, that kind of preserves that corner. And this is where you want the head to be definitely nice and straight. So I comb this down and now I'm going to take my line just like this around to the front. Again, just using the tip of the scissor and we're going to create a flat line today. But you could angle this line if you wanted to. It just depends on what you're looking for. I'm also going to continue on this entire side and I'm just following this guideline now. So straight across there and then cutting a nice blunt line. Right now there is no tension barely at all in this haircut. I'm just lightly combing it down, looking at where my guide is and going through and cutting. When I blow it dry, that's when I'm going to do a little bit more detail work of that. But you can see how nice and blunt that line is. Really, that's because there was no tension. If I had a ton of tension on this, if I pull this down and you see with tension, see how kind of jagged that line is? That's where if I would have cut it, it would have popped up and then the line would have been jagged how she wears it and how it wants to fall naturally. Now here's what's going on in the back. I'm now working on the heavy side of the haircut. This is where all of the density is. You definitely want to make sure that the head is straight as you're moving it around. Make sure your guest doesn't turn her head. Now once I get the cut there, I cut straight across and now I'm going to cut in, keeping a little bit of that corner, not a lot, but a little bit, following that guide. Now here's the other thing. Now that I've cut this side and I also have my reference on the other side, now I'm going to look at it and make sure that they're balanced. Just pray to the gods. Now I'll continue through, comb the hair in the direction I want to part it and work my way around the head. All right, so again, tilt it just slightly, keeping what I'm working on flat in front of me, my eyes level, little tension, and working through. All right, now I'm going to comb all the hair into its natural fall. So I comb it into its natural fall. I want to make sure I can see my guide through. And it's really important within the crown area to make sure that all that hair is falling naturally how it wants to fall, right? So not forcing it over to the side, making sure that you work that calic and wherever the hair is going to fall on its own is where you comb it down to. And then I go through here and I work my line across. So now we've got our blunt lines. What I'm going to do is I'm going to do a flat wrap. I'm going to, this is actually a new product from Joico, Blonde Life, even though this isn't super blonde, brilliant tone violet smoothing foam. So the cool thing about this, give it to your blondes and it's a purple foam to tone their hair while they blow it dry. So I'm going to put that through the hair. I can put it through the hair with my hands, but then the last little bit that I'm going to do is brush it through so we get the product on everything. See where the parting is here? I don't want to work this parting in. Anytime I'm trying to work something into its natural fall, what I do is I wrap it around the head and I work that part back and forth. I don't want a part in there because I want to create even volume throughout the entire top of the head so I can push the hair wherever I want it to go at the end. So I'm going to start my flat wrap around, working it up and over for the person that doesn't want the hair in the face. This is a good, just kind of up and over just like this and then you can work it back around the other way and then back around the opposite. The brush that I'm using is the Palmichel 413 and this has a really light tension to it. So it allows there still to be a good amount of volume in the hair and it detangles really nice as well. For this particular haircut, I don't want to smooth it too flat to the head. So I'll leaf through it so I kind of blow dry it over and then I grab a little section of the hair and lift it and blow dry through. Comb over, lift it, blow dry through. Notice the air flow is going over top of the hair cuticle. That's going to lay it down, make it nice and shiny. Keep away the frizz. If you're constantly working up the hair, it's just going to open up that cuticle and make the hair frizzy. So it's key to make sure that you're just constantly wrapping it, air flow going down. Notice my blow dryer doesn't even move. My brush does all of the work. Same thing, flat wrap up and over and what you're doing is you're initially you're taking the hair giving it a little bit of volume but using the head as a roller and giving it a little slight bend. So watch as I blow dry this over and it starts to dry and when I comb it down, it lays a nice little bend and nice and soft through it. You also saw the long pieces on the side. That's because this haircut is cut to have a side parting and this is where a lot of people make big mistakes because when they bring the hair over here and they see this long piece that actually lives on this side, they take it and they cut it. You never want to go through and just chop things that you see because they usually have a purpose. Another little tip with blow drying is when you think it's dry, go a little bit longer because you go from being like damp to dry and damp to kind of frizzy and then to smooth and that's where you want to sit. You want to sit on the smooth category and you don't want to do as much work with a flat iron, right? Because damage is going to come from using a flat iron too much. All right, so now we're just going to iron it real quick. Do I have a favorite brand of flat iron? Yes, Paul Mitchell. This Paul Mitchell Neuro Iron heats up super fast within seconds and not like one minute seconds, like 10 seconds. So my recap of the foam that I used, violet foam for toning blonde hair, it has kind of a texturey feel to the hair. So my recommendation with this product and what I like to do is just kind of give you guys my honest opinion on it. I think it'd be great for blonde hair. It feels very conditioning. I think that's probably why it has that kind of feeling to it. I would be lighter with the product. I put a lot into this Bob. For my clients that do a blonde hair, I think that it's probably really beneficial. And if I read this, fuses hair with hydrating, whatever name that is oils, while instantly banishing brass for a brilliantly blonde finish. Taking out the brassy tones, conditioning a hair with oils. That oils is what I'm feeling in the hair. I like to gather my own opinions on products before they tell me what it's going to be. I'm definitely known to accidentally put shampoo in the hair because I didn't read the description and then try to style with it. One time I put a YouTube video up and I used the product. It was a foaming shampoo. And I was like, this doesn't feel right. And then I put it out on YouTube and somebody goes, I use that for shampooing. What are you guys thinking so far? You can see the line looks pretty good, but I just want to go through and fine tune it. So what I will do is I'll tilt the head down slightly, comb it with even wider tooth comb. So this is a YS Park 332 comb. This one has super wide teeth. It's got wide teeth. So I'm not pulling any tension really at all. It's just really controlling the hair at this point. So I comb that down. So then I get it eye level. Now again, I would in the salon use a stool. Cutting stool, I would sit and then I would be eye level. Now I'm going to go through with just the tip of the scissor and create whatever the line is that I desire, right? So you can get fancy with your line or you can just go through and clean up what you created in the wet cut. I'll go flat with the blade after I do a little bit with the tip. So the tip, I'll take off the length like the actual like parts that are sticking out a little bit further. And then when I get the length where I want it, then just to clean and create a really nice sharp line. Then I go through with the blade a little flatter. Another cool trick I learned this from my pal, Josh DeMarco is to take a little hairspray and comb that into the hair. This is a nice firm hold hairspray. This is JoyCo JoyMist firm. So super strong hold, but I just put that in the hair, get the hair exactly kind of where I want it and then go through and cut your line and it actually keeps the hair a little in place. And just so you guys know, a little trick of the trade is that all these people that post all these really sharp haircuts, these sharp lines, takes a lot of time to detail those lines. It's not like, oh, I just did it all in the dry cut or the wet cut because I'm so amazing at this. It's not how it works. You really got to fine tune it to get it exactly where you want. You guys get the gist. I could do this for hours. So thank you guys so much for watching this. You guys have any questions? Make sure you post them in the comments below. I'd love to hear your questions, comments, what you think about this video, anything you want to learn upcoming. Make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel, but here is the cut. So I hope you like it.