 get some prep table here and change an evaporator out. I wasn't the one that diagnosed this so I'm not really sure what's wrong with it but I'm gonna assume that it probably has a leak. Generally we find it to be smarter to change the capillary tube whenever you change the evaporator or compressor just to prevent the callbacks. Sometimes you can get it right in there with a suction line, sometimes you can't. It just really depends on whether it's been ran through the wall or not. These are pretty simple to do. Always keep an eye on your door seals and door seals are all good. That'll cause you some condensation build up if they aren't good. Alright, looks like we got a little bit of oil here on this capillary tube. I'm gonna pull the thermostat out. This senses coil temperature not box temperature for the shutoff point. I should actually rephrase that. This senses the coil temperature to turn off and it's a constant cut in at generally 38-39 degrees. That way you know that the coil has defrosted before allowing the compressor to come back on again. One thing I've ran into when I first started on these was they got enough refrigerant to freeze up but they don't have enough refrigerant to get the coil cold enough to actually reach the 18 to 17 degrees depending on how it's set up to shut off so that it's run run run run run. That's the most sensitive thing in the world. Looks like we got a couple spots there in the coil so we can not just right here. Man, this thing is so slow to respond. That's why I like my H10. I just thought I'd give it a benefit of the doubt. Looks like they changed this a little bit. Now it's plastic. Usually that's aluminum and you got this out. It's a good time to clean your drain out and stuff because your drain tends to get packed full of crap. And get our cap tube cut. This little bulb over here, that's your accumulator. It's just a copper pipe with one tube going down, one coming out. It's kind of almost something you could easily make yourself. It's just something the factories do that helps give it a little extra protection. This will be an easy one to change as far as cap tubes concerned. It's just attached to the suction line here for barely a foot. You don't clamp on taps. That'll be gone but I might get done. We're gonna put that on, raise that on solid. We'll be changing the filter dryer of course and we're gonna put a cap T, an O32. That will also give us a high side port so we can charge it a little easier and it also helps tell us whether or not we're getting a restriction. Yeah, I really like these cap T dryers. They're made for capular tubes. Basically comes with a straighter core. Says it's specifically made for it, basically meaning it has more filtering capabilities. It's got a high side port here on it. It's only on the incoming side and then basically these here are what we use for a suction port and that'll give us a nice dedicated spot. So we'll grab our evacuation bucket here and we'll go ahead and get started on some of that stuff. I'm gonna head and bent this up to there so we can get the new dryer in line with it without any major problems. You don't want to open this until it's time to brace it in. Now the thing I've noticed with this, that aluminum that they're putting on there, it's a dissimilar metal. It says it tends to see to corrode on the copper. So it's great that it's conductive value is there but honestly it really ain't too impressed the way it turns out. Great, there's your capular tube. What I'll do sometimes is, you know, if the factory don't have the specs, I'm gonna just measure it out. Make sure it's the same length as the other one because I don't want this matched. But we'll match it up, make sure it's the same. Sometimes it'll give you a little extra. So basically we've got four inches extra here. I'm gonna go ahead and cut it like that. That's gonna smash the in there together. I'll take it off about a quarter of an inch. So there's that, that's gonna be pitched together. Now we can send it down through there. One majority of my line to be back here in the cooler. So we're gonna shove that down through there, down to here to there. What I've done in the past is I've actually wound it around the accumulator on the inside and then insulated it. I'm gonna sleeve it with that clear plastic tubing I got so that way if any vibration happens here that we don't rub it into one of these sharp edges. Let me see I'm able to slide that on over top of it. It's hard to make it the whole way. So I'm just gonna do a couple strips here. That's gonna protect us as we go through the sharp edge. There we go. Make it a little easier. I may have to trim it back a little bit so when I braze that in there I don't melt the plastic too much. I don't want them to look like crap. Now one thing you gotta keep in mind if you're gonna try to unbraze that there's a good chance there's oil buildup in here so you might have a little bit of a flare up. Also we don't really want to melt the plastic. You can see some of the crud that's getting down in there in that drain. That's gonna cause it to plug up later. A lot of times I don't worry about nitrogen on the unbrazing. I mean I try to do it as best as possible but sometimes it just doesn't get done on every little spa piece. I'm not going to say I do it every time but I do try to do it 98, 99% of the time. Alright that looks a lot better now. Got all that crap out of there. Just a few stains left. Now's the time to get it all cleaned out. Get it all cleaned up. I screwed over there holding it. Gonna put a wet rag up there. Get that braze in position. Alright we got her all in there. It's all nice and ready to go. Now we can run some nitrogen back through through here. Okay I have my dedicated line here to a little purge. Get everything out of the coil and all that. And once that's done go down to purge only. Wet it and then I can feel it and I know it's coming through. Get the rag on there. That's gonna help protect the plastic over here. It's also going to help protect that insulation that's on the suction line. I see it looks fairly decent. Good uniform connections all the way around. Got a little bit warm there on that part which that pain is to try to protect the copper from the vinegars and stuff that tends to be inside the coolers that tends to make these leak. Make a nice little loop. Here's your cap tube cutters. Basically it's just a V-shaped cutter. You can do the same thing with wire strippers just not as nice. So we said we had about a couple extra fingers lengths. So we're gonna go ahead and cut that. That puts a nice circle cut on it. I'm gonna keep that back here a bit. Then we're gonna stick this inside of the coil about two to three inches. Right now we've got nitrogen coming through. What I'll do is I'll do a large blast of nitrogen and then I'll go ahead and braze it. I'll actually shut it off and then braze it. That'll just place the oxygen and then like you're gonna remember it's gonna be coming in from the capular tube into the coil. So anything that might have got in there is going to get caught in the suction side into the compressor. It's about the best way I can figure to come up with a way of doing it. You figure I would say a good majority of everybody doesn't even do this. So I just try to do my best. Gotta get that base metal one first if possible. That time you didn't see anything at all. You can melt the paint on the tube there. Okay now I can feed from the suction side and I can feel the air coming through nitrogen. So I know that we're clear. I know we're not restricted. There's nothing worse than getting this thing together. Charge it up and it's restricted because you've got the cap tube gum shut. Okay the thought process behind this is that we're going to get this part here brazed in first. That way any carbon is going to get caught back here, not here. I'll sit there and hold my finger up there to see about how far I'm into the filter dryer. I want to be in there far enough that I'm not going to have any capillary action pull the braze into the cap tube. We're purging through there get that dryer nice and cleared out. I'm going to drop it down to the lowest setting on my building regulator. Now I'm just trying to keep the dryer somewhat cool here. Not making shooting for perfect. I'm going to let that cool for a moment. I don't want to rush into it and cause a crack especially with a small as a pipe that is. Everything looks pretty clean and clear there. We'll trim off that little burr piece there. Okay my feelings on this right here is yeah it's three-eighths but you're reducing down to a capillary tube right here. So I'm not too overly concerned about it being on the inside of the pipe and this has just helped make my seal around the edge pores. I'll crank that up again. I don't like getting it too close because it will pull down the joint to the point where it'll actually be on the joint longer and that actually takes more time to do it to get it warm enough. Got all the way underneath and all the way on top. I'm going to clean this up a little bit here so everything looks pretty decent for an amateur. I went ahead and pulled this out a little bit. You know one thing my dad taught me and he's a welder is that if you can't see your work you can't see what you're doing you can't do a good job. So if you got to bend things a little bit within reason to get to them properly and not burn things up and torch the product you're working on go ahead and move it around a little bit. It's filling up now and we'll check her out. We just scan it with the ultrasonic leak detector. I did not hear anything. Pressure's not dropping. I'm gonna go ahead and soap it just in case. Here's a little hack that you can do your light tube to magnets on it. That makes it so much easier and holds it wherever you need it. I went ahead and just did it with the aluminum tape again. Got my cap tube all done up there. All right got her all insulated. Added extra wire ties to it just to make sure that it did come undone that it's gonna hold there. Got that loop insulated because that's gonna possibly condensate and sweat. All right if you want to see something massively overkill. We've got the turbo of 6 million here. A refrigerant in it. All right that cap tube there from the thermostat goes into this little tube there and then you're supposed to seal that with a little bit of cork tape so that you don't get moisture in there. These monster hoses and at 21 minutes it's only hit around 600. I found it off. It rose up to about 1350. Then it dropped down to about 0.8 0.9 microns a second on the rise rate for the Blank-off test. So the only thing that's left in there now is the refrigerant because the leak it just kept on rising. Okay we're at 443. We're gonna go ahead and shut her back down here. Like I said I've already done my Blank-off test once before so I know that it's gonna rise some. Here they're only gonna get so far when it comes time for moisture when it's peal of the oil. So we're at 1,020. It's massively slowed down compared to what it was before. It went ahead and purged vapor through our hoses all the way up to it so and I'm gonna break the myth of you can't use six foot hoses because you'll lose too much refrigerant because the way I do it is I found it off on the high side suck it back in. You only talk in probably a tenth of an ounce, quarter of an ounce when you're talking vapor not liquid. Yeah it's definitely not going in as fast as what you'd normally see but because when we purged our nitrogen through there we knew that it only went one direction or the other. There's high pressure. I'm gonna suck the rest of it in. Form which tells me it's not pumping down yet. We're going to get closer to our negative there so we're gonna go ahead and throttle this in slowly. I don't want it to appear in the compressor. So it's gonna be a little low on the suction pressure because we've got liquid from here to here that needs to be pulled back into the system yet. So we're running a 98 degree liquid temperature incoming refrigerant. So we're isolated into this punch here. I'll just valve it off here. Suck that back in. Suction should come up maybe around 15 to 18 hopefully. See no liquid lost. Stuff like that. There's always a chance that maybe they didn't get you the exact one that you should have or maybe something's not quite right. So we may have to add a ounce or two to it. We're just gonna watch it for a bit and see how it reacts. One of the things you got to watch when you're checking super heat on these compressors is that you're actually doing it back at the evaporator not out here because you've already added heat to it or with the capillary tube hooked to it. So you don't want a false reading. So this is not gonna be a hundred percent accurate by doing it here. Right now it is coming back cool but you don't want to jump the gun and go changing things. The fan's running and we're just gonna watch our box temperature and see how things go. Things can change sometimes when they're running. You would figure it's gonna come down once it's running but we're just gonna give a second. This dryer here can possibly hold a little bit more than the dryer that was in there from the factory. Usually it will say on the dryer box itself what you have to add. I try to go with this 032 because it's usually pretty comparable to the pencil dryers. I don't like those pencil dryers because they got loose fill in there and they seem to get plugged up easier and that loose fill when these systems go low on refrigerant it'll bake that oil and it goes in there and it breaks those beats down because it's running so hot because it's don't have the refrigerant in there to cool the compressor and that goes in there and plugs up your cap tube and then the whole system is pretty well got to be tore apart and clean. Superheat's running 43. You wouldn't want real low superheat this early into the game. Generally I mean it's all interesting if you read the history on how the capillary tubes are calculated out because it's actually trial and error they'll get ballparked and then at the very end they'll actually have to trial and error it when they're engineering the box and because there's no exact perfect way to get it dead nuts on so that's why these critically charged systems generally need to be charged exactly the way they say to do it. About 10. That's definitely lower than what I like to see but it's not quite like air conditioning when you had to focus on your evaporator temperatures because this will defrost itself. Alright went out to the truck and she shut down came back in just checked the thermometer inside the cooler it's a 38 so it's soon to come back on here in a minute. I'm going to stop where we're at I'm not going to overcharge it. You have a miniature accumulator right here to help protect the flood back so I'm not going to take away that protection by overcharging it obviously it's reaching temperature. Alright that's going to wrap this one up I just want to take a moment to thank you guys for subscribing and wish everyone a happy Thanksgiving out there. I'm sure this wasn't exactly where I would have liked to have seen them at but at this point since it's cooling and everything looks good of course temperatures are concerned I'm going to go with the fact that I used OEM parts and there's no good excuse why it wasn't I primarily done everything I can do and it just kicked back on so if you liked the video please like share and subscribe and most importantly please click that notification bell because only 20 to 30% of you guys actually click that till next time we'll catch you on the next one