 everybody, welcome back to another episode of Retro Tech today. I've got a another 14 inch PVM. This time it's pretty much a full on build and everything you're going to see today is a bunch of new techniques and things I was trying out. But it's also a representative of a 14M to medical unit is what I'm putting together here today. And I'll kind of explain that to you. I've got a lot of different parts that I've been saving that are top quality. And well, we're going to just start right off with a unboxing here, which is always fun. So this was an eBay purchase that I'm unboxing right here. This is actually the bezel. And I needed the base plate or the base plastic that goes under the bezel. I needed both those parts for a medical version of the 14M too. So I bought this PVM that was listed as not working. But the bezel was in perfect shape. And so was the whole shell. So as a perfect candidate to buy and I got it for less than $100 shipped. So that was the best deal I had been on the hunt for a long time. It was right at $100 shipped for this PVM that I'm opening right now. But again, it doesn't work. So we'll look at that. But the seller did do a really good job of packing it. It wasn't perfect. It wasn't, you know, great with pool noodles. But it was good enough. So we just see the foam that they used around the sides here. And we can see that the bezel and the whole shell made it out completely safe. And unfortunately, this unit when it came to me did not have the original Sony tag on the front. But again, the monitor looked fine. So to get started, I wanted to try and just turn it on and see what it does. So the green tally light came on and pretty much stayed lit. But none of the buttons were responding on the front. And I didn't have any screen light up. No, it was pretty much dead on the screen. So I knew that's a pretty serious issue. And it does require one or it is one that would require me to take this monitor, at least the shell off and inspect inside. When something doesn't start like that, it's a good idea to check inside right away and see if first anything's unplugged or obviously, you know, dislodged from shipping. But that wasn't the case here, there's obviously a fault somewhere. But I really wanted to show off this particular PVM because this was a mid to late 90s, I believe it was made in 1997. This is a really early board for this PVM and it just was filled with jumper wires. And these were factory jumper wires, really long ones you could see how they just like curled up off the board. Those were installed in the factory. So I just thought that was interesting. I haven't really seen that a lot. Now, guys, I want to show you this, I want you to just see what I just did. I'm doing a new way of discharging PVMs. And that's what I'm doing right here. According to the manual, and that is every PVM manual from Sony, you're actually supposed to do that. You're supposed to not even discharge it first. What you do is you get in there and you remove the anode cap from the actual back of the tube, and you do that by squeezing that together on the backside of the anode cap, and then you push those two prongs together and they pull it out and it releases from the hole. Now, obviously, you do not want to touch any of that metal with your fingers. And this is a little bit more of a maybe dangerous method to discharge, because that could have live current on it. So what I do is I discharge that and then I'll discharge the tube. You can watch me do that now. I just discharged that with my discharge tool on the same thing with the tube. But that's technically the recommended way that Sony not only says to do it in the manual, but that's the way they say to do it in training and all every every monitor that's a CRT and a Trinitron tube, you'll find in the manuals, that's how Sony recommends that you discharge it. So just want to show that off and that you will be seeing me discharge in that method, even though I have taught it differently in the past. Now, this one's obviously got some issues. So I'm going to start disassembling it and getting the old monitor out of there. That's the current main power supply, which you saw me remove, then this neck board's got to go. And so does all the rest of the internals on this monitor. The only thing I'm keeping again is going to be the front bezel, the bottom plate, and then the front. Actually, I will be using that the keypad back here because that remains the same that part where the buttons are. So now I'm installing my new board because I wanted to run a real quick test. And so what I did here is I have this original tube that was left in from this earlier monitor. And it is, I don't know what the tube looks like because I couldn't get it to power on. So I wanted to see how it was if it worked. And to do that, I'm just going to hook in my newer 14M2 board, which this board, which the main board, the power supply, the neck board, and all the boards that I'm installing into this monitor that will be the final boards used are from an Olympus 143 model, which is the 14M2. So I'm sorry if you get a little confused, but I'll try to keep things up to speed as I go along. But I am installing now that 14M2 monitor onto this tube. And I hope you noticed I did keep the original yoke because the pinout was the same on that yoke and the tube, even though they were earlier models. Right away, you'll notice there's some horizontal issues. It's everything looked really clear and nice. However, I couldn't get the horizontal size to expand enough to even fill up the screen entirely. It would get right to the edge. And then that was it. I couldn't get it to expand out past the viewing area on the tube right here. I couldn't get it to pass. So this isn't a good test because you can't see on the screen what is actually happening. But after doing that, I knew that the yoke and the tube were pretty much not going to be compatible with this newer, this newer board and all the other newer boards, at least it wasn't going to look good if it was compatible. So I wanted to try before I gave up on the tube, because the tube works again, I did test it and worked. So I'm going to try the newer yoke that came with the actual Olympus 14M2 143 monitor. Again, this is the original yoke that came with the rest of that monitor. And I'm installing it on this older tube. And then I'll just plug it in, plug the monitor back up, and we'll give it a test and see how it looks because that the yoke was significantly larger. It should have a much more powerful magnet in it. And it definitely did stretch out the geometry to a larger range like I wanted it to. But there were loads of other issues that started happening on the screen. You can see right here that it started blooming. And right away, I knew I had it, you know, to it wasn't set up right. So I did fiddle around with it and got it calmed down some, but I just could never get the purity to balance out correctly. So even though the size adjustments were correct on here, I could never get that purity on the screen to work out to where it would be one solid color, I could, I could only get it. I eventually minimized it where it would just be read down in this color where it's magento right now, I'd always have red there, or I'd have green up in this corner. And I got it, again, I got it adjusted down quite a bit, but not enough to where it was usable. So that tube did not combine with the yoke or, you know, any, see, I still tried to adjust it, but it just didn't work. So that yoke and tube combination wasn't going to work. So my original plan was all along to install a premium tube that I had from another PVM. And that was a L series. It was a S video model only of an L series. So what I'm doing now is I'm taking that original tube that we were just using, I'm taking that out of the bezel frame. And then that tube is going to go into my tube stock. And then this is the tube from the L series. This is a 2004 model, very lightly used, not much at all. Really just was something that was put away. And then it had a fault in the board. So the tube was just not even usable because the board was faulty. And I didn't really feel like repairing that board when I could use it for something like this. So I combined that tube, it's from 2004. It's a 600 line tube. And I installed it back into the medical bezel. And it has the same yoke, the exact same yoke that came with the Olympus 143 slash 14 m2 u model monitor. So that yoke was able to stay with this tube. And then it plugged directly into the chassis for the 143. So now you could say I've got this thing I went ahead and reassembled it completely with the new tube, and the proper yoke. So it's practically a 143 in a Sony bezel. And it has a newer tube in it. And thankfully, the combination worked out perfectly. You can see on the screen the first time I fired it up. It looked really nice. Of course, it's going to need some adjustments. But everything was very nice, nice purity and convergence already in place on this tube. And after I got to tweak it a little bit, I it really turned out nicely. So I was talking about that Sony emblem being gone earlier. And there is an eBay seller. Now, it's kind of tricky. You have to go just, you know, look through for replacement Sony emblems on eBay, because they change the listing up a lot. So if I tagged a listing, generally two months later, it's not the same listing, and it's gone. Because I've tried that before. So if you just get on there and look for replacement Sony emblems, there is a person who sells them and they're nice, they're metal. And they're got the nice black painted in between the number or the characters for Sony. And they work out great if you have no other options that are missing the actual real PVMs, Sony emblem. So the tube came out perfectly. It looks good. I tweaked it a little bit. And of course, I didn't want to tweak it too much yet, though, because since I got it working now, I wanted to go ahead and finalize this restoration. And if you know me, you know that means I had to go through then and recap a lot of this stuff. So even though it was working, this is completely preventative. And we'll just extend the life of this PVM. Starting off today with the power supply. That's the easiest one to start with. And I try to show something a little bit different each time I do this. So I'm going to show you how to get this board out specifically. There are these little push tabs. It took me a while to figure this out. If you just push all these little push tabs, there's four of them, or sometimes only two of them. But if you push them, the board will just fall out. If you pull the board downside like that, it'll pretty much just fall right out of that black plastic. And you're good to go to start recapping. So this, when I do the recaps on the power supply, I pretty much change every cap on the power supply just to be safe. And nothing works better for that really for me than this HACCO FR 301. I did a review of this tool in the past, I'll link to it up top, if you want to check that out. But this is one of my favorite tools to use and especially when I'm desoldering any kind of capacitor just works really well with through hole components. You know, once you get the hang of it, you'd be really good at recapping pretty much anything with through hole capacitors. So that's with all the caps gone. And then now they've all been replaced. And the power supply. So I just replace the shielding now and get it screwed back together and put it aside. That way I can get to work on the main chassis now. And the main chassis is a little bit trickier to recap than the main power supply unit. And again, to do this, we're going to of course start with discharging the tube because you have to discharge it in order to get the main chassis out. That's where the flyback is located. So again, I'm doing this method of pinching that together, and then discharging both the tube and the anode cap after I've pulled it away from the tube. And then you pull out the main board. I'm gonna leave the neck board in there for the time being as well as all the other cords. And again, you're going to want to remove this from this plastic tray because we're going to need to get to some of the components that are directly under that plastic. So it's just four screws. And the trickiest screw to remember is the one that's attached to the flyback. So there's always one attached to the flyback. But most of the components that we're looking at or capacitors are these that are in next to the heat sinks. And any that are in those are really going to be where we're concentrating on and the ones over here next to the flyback as well, I've replaced them. Now this is after I've replaced them. And I just like to go back and always do this, I always double and sometimes even triple check my work, meaning I check to make sure that I've put each component in the right place. This this cap kit has come out to be about 20 capacitors for the main chassis cap kit. And you just want to make sure that you got the right cap in each spot, and definitely make sure that you have it pointing the right direction. And each each spot on these boards is marked clearly on the top side and the bottom side where the positive and negative are. But that cap kit is going to help our geometry and our screen settings really use their full capabilities by having fresh capacitors. And honestly, my cap kits involve three or four capacitors that are upgrades from directly from Sony and this is Sony bulletins that they released on their products later. After they released them, the bulletins did have some updates where some of the capacitors were changed to help better the better performance for the monitor. So that's another good thing about it. And I always say, you know, if you have a monitor and you really want it to last a long time, then doing this with the capacitors is a really, really good job to do. And it is tricky. And you don't want to the the really even though I've done a lot of them, you're nervous every single time, whether you're gonna have an issue, especially if a monitor worked great for you recapped it as because there's a lot of little areas that if you're not careful, and you try to go too fast on your repair or you recap, you can make a mistake, and then you damage the monitor further. And it might be a component that's hard to get. So here's the monitor I'll put together. And again, I like to always check my screen purity. It's one of the first things I like to check when I get it turned on is the white, red, green and blue and then black screens just to make sure that all my color guns are firing. Or well, this is only one gun, but I want to make sure each color is firing. And then I'll check out the geometry. This one did have to have a couple adjustments, but I squared that away. And I did adjust for the convergence as well. This is the little convergence tool. I'll put a link to the details on this tool above here in the little eye. But this tool does help you check and make sure that your guns are all lined up or that the color beams are lined up when they come out of the gun and they are hitting the back phosphors that those your convergence is lined up correctly. And that way, you don't have any extra blurs or like red and blue look in certain areas of the screen, you want to get that checked throughout the entire screen because you could still have some problems at some of the corners. So that's all been really dialed in as well as you saw the purity there a second ago. And again, this is the monitor that is on the eBay sale. Now, I've already promoted that. But in case you are the lucky person who ends up getting this monitor, I wanted you to be able to see everything that had been done to this monitor. Because again, we got a brand or a newer tube from 2004 installed. We've got new capacitors. And again, that's a Nishicon only capacitor kit that's I only use as top quality capacitors for my cap kits. And then we've got all those adjustments that have been made. And this was a super clean shell too. So the casing and everything, it just looks perfect. And it is a great little 600 line analog monitor. And I can't reiterate enough how good of 600, you know, these 600 line monitors are for 816 and 32 bit gaming, they're really perfect. So that's pretty much it for this build out. And again, let me know if you have any questions or comments. And, you know, just think about that. If you end up with getting parts or if you have monitors that come to you and they don't work completely, you may be able to save the parts and eventually build just an amazing monitor, because so many of the parts are interchangeable. Now, not every part is interchangeable as we saw in today's video, but a lot of them are. So again, feel free to leave me a comment or question. I want to thank anybody who's watched. And I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content.