 We got us a walk-in freezer. It's got a couple icicles on it. What I noticed first off was it's actually defrosting fine, but the pan here has been completely tore apart. So we're going to go ahead and put it to a defrost and see if we can find out if it's something more than the pan, just with the draining or what. And our heat tape does feel to be working. This thing stays kind of horizontal for a while. Check the suction pressure. Prejuration wrench was. Let's put her into a defrost again. Let's see if we can get it adjusted a little bit. Okay, so we adjusted our differential and she did shut off. Let's take a peek at our electrical section. Terminal three, which is feeding our heaters, is 10.75. Checker four, make sure it's dead. And it's dead, so that's good. So other than being in a negative, which is definitely not good, you don't want to be in the negative. There's a leak, then stuff into the system and that's not good. So let's go downstairs, take a look at the elements, make sure all the elements are paying heater and all that's working. Get into those wires and hack away at those. We're set at a reasonable temperature there. All right, one thing I noticed was this was worn before we kicked it in defrost. When it was in defrost, it was off. Maybe not a humongous thing. I'd prefer it to stay hot all the time. We're going to get this pan and drop it. It kicked out on termination. This coil is clean. I mean, that's great. But what we got going on over here, I think was just the compressor kept running. There's not a lot of heat over here in this corner and it just caused it to build up a lot of ice over here because there's really no major heaters over here. It could be a bad pan heater too, I'm not certain yet off the check. Pan heater. And it looks to me like it's working because it's keeping the drain clean. We've just got us a lot of build up over here. This is kind of just using your surroundings here and kind of figuring out what's going on. If you look at it, that ice is all over here. I've got a pressure switch that wasn't shutting off. It kind of further confirms what I was thinking. Far as it just wasn't shutting off when it was going through defrost, fans shut off but the compressor kept running. The heat off set it and didn't freeze up. But over here where there's no heaters hardly at all, that's where it just grew and grew and grew and grew until it finally tore itself apart. All right, three jugs of water, we've finally got it. All right, get everything back reattached. Everything's taped back up here. Back here, since this was all tore up, put a screw here, went up to this frame, then put a screw there, went into that. That's going to be held there. Move the thermostat back to here instead of there. That's on the suction line, bulbs up, and then all the defrost heaters. They're pretty decent, being perfect, but they ain't too bad. Got to go back up on the roof, verify our cyclist's full and then make sure she shuts off this time. Doesn't just keep on running. Checking out condenser, it's a little dirty. Put it back into a pump down and make sure it shuts off. There you go. She shut off that time. And it's in the positive somewhere around a couple pounds. Came on about 25. She's not rising back up. And then when we pull it out, it went about 25, 28. About 27. Not rising up. You don't want a rapid cycle coming back and forth, back and forth. That's something to watch out for. And boom. A week later, I'm called back out because water is dripping from the ceiling. It's found that the insulation on the pipes was only one wrap thick of Armaflex tape. And while checking that out, I find that we had a refrigerant leak. It went from small to big on a vertical rise, which generally is a no-no. And then they used, looks like, packing tape and wrapped that around the bulb. They did at least use copper straps, but the line above here is leaking. They get quick connects and use soft solder there, which in theory is probably fine, but chances are it's probably not stay bright or equivalent. It's probably just one more solder. So I'm going to check that for leaks, too, because I know we've got leaks up above. All right. Something I just learned today. This jab saw works really good for getting that insulation out. Anyhow, these are the fittings that were leaking. They had a coupling here, coupling here that I didn't see. You've got this there. So what I'm doing is isolating this away from the insulation. I don't want to set off no smoke alarms or anything like that. And then I kind of went up a little higher so that I could chop out that coupling and put a new coupling in. That way I ain't got two couplings in there plus all this other garbage. Just unswatted it, wiped that silver snot out of there, and we're going to rebraise that. We're going to put a quarter inch cord on the side of this thing so you can check super heat inside here. That'll also give me a place to purge my nitrogen through as I finish brazing this thing up. I was able to run nitrogen right through there while it was being brazed. That'll give us a place to pull our vacuum and stuff for it. Okay, we've got our purge going on right now. We've got our new pipe in there. I cleaned all that nasty plumber, solder, or whatever the heck they put in there. Got that completely out of it. So now we're able to purge the nitrogen through there. We've got the top on the half inch line. It's open so it can vent on through. Got to put a magnet on the solenoid yet so that it can fully go through. We got our own purge there. Got everything wiped off and cooled off. Now we're going to go ahead and get that thing in up top. I had to pull it down from below. I'll have to go back up again. Got it down to here. Got my bulb attached. It's got good connection here. We don't have any gaps in between here. That will kill you and you've got to use strap. Preferably the copper or brass strap like they've got here. If you just tape it on, wire it on, wire tie it on, it does not work. I've had several problems with people doing stuff like that. It looks like crap right now because of all the carbon. But like I said, I've got that bleeding down there. I'm going to feed, expand a foam down here into the hole and put some tape down below to try to keep it from dripping down and get that completely sealed up. All right we got her set on the pressure test which is 250 for this particular model and we're filling her up right now. We'll be able to test my breeze joint here, my two here, and then we'll go up above and check those. Not seeing anything bubbling. Got that insulated and got that expanded foam in there until that's not been changing anytime lately. I used channel locks on the fittings. Okay we're bulging out around 3,000 area. This oil looks horrible so we're going to do a quick oil change here. So here we go here but I don't like refilling that. That's just a lot of extra work. So we have to do a triple evacuation for the manors. It could also be the suction king valve on this since it was mangoided that it's leaking through or even the king valve on the high side could be leaking through. We know it's not a leak so chances are it's probably bleeding refrigerant through. I will later find out that the valves did leak and that allowed nitrogen into the refrigerant causing non-condensibles. Okay I've outed it off just to see what it would do. Obviously it's rising but it's slowed down some. We'll just see whether it keeps on flying up or if it slows down. All right we got this insulated glued and put tape over it to hold it in place while it dries. I'm not an insulator and we got a new drain fitting on here and this is about crazy. They've already drilled a hole through the wall. It's got very little to almost no slope at all but it's been like this for quite a few years so there's not a whole lot you can do about it without drilling a new hole through the wall. So I put a new drain fitting in here when it actually has a seal on it. This one was missing so we had some water dripping out of that and then we're getting ready to just wire tie my bulb up here and then get her running again. This has been a roller coaster of a ride. We've got our port here so we can actually check our super heat. We've actually had to make a couple adjustments and when it's all said and done we actually end up having both charged because we had non-condensibles in it. We end up taking the TXV apart and cleaning the two boost rods that are inside here and then readjusting everything. Weighing in new refrigerant. Everything is looking a lot better than what it did. We've got all new insulation all the way down to here. Another piece starting here split on the inside glued and added the duct tape to it to reinforce it. So that a little bit of water left over from what's up above. Just need to trim that a little bit. For the most part I think it's pretty sealed. I jammed it down inside there working my way around it but I should wrap this one up. We've got a new builder dryer there. Got the coil washed out. It was impacted and after like I said finding that the pressures were way higher than they should have been. Generally you don't check your sub-cooling but because I couldn't fill my sight glass as I was adding refrigerant I had like a 30-some odd degree super sub-cooling. With all things considered definitely one of those things where you ran into one thing after another after another. The valve here I told them about it. Literally I tried squaring that up so I could get the wrench on it. That didn't work. Had to use the good old kinemics there and it's just an easier place but as long as it's working that's all they cared about. So we're just going to give it a kiss, goodnight and call it a day.