 Bonjour et bienvenue sur le modélisme et je suis content that you are back here in my channel. For today's tutorial, we are going to learn the sewing tutorial for the corset pattern making that we did previously. In this tutorial, you are going to learn a lot of sewing techniques that you can apply not only for your corset but also for your other garments. And if you guys are new to my channel, I have a separate tutorial for the part one of this tutorial, which is called corset pattern making if I am not mistaken. And it is available now on my channel. Prepare your corset patterns with complete sewing allowances. Prepare approximately 2.5 meters of your chosen fabric for the lining and the shell. Prepare approximately 3-4 meters of plastic boning and 1.5 meters of fridgeline boning. For the eyelet, I will use this hole puncher with the variety of hole sizes. Prepare a lot of eyelets, preferably 5mm, an eyelet puncher to attach the eyelet to the corset, fabric scissors, a tailor's chalk, a lighter to mold the plastic boning, and lastly a ruler. To begin, let's make some few edits and add details to our corset patterns. And because I am not satisfied with the back corset panels, I will add a new panel splitting the second back panel into two. On the underarm side seam of the second back panel, mark in 5 cm or 2". Next, get the halfway of the hem of the second back panel and mark. And connect these two marks creating a new line for the third back panel. And cut through this line like so. And put your desired sewing allowance on each panel. And draw in the grain line indication on the third back panel. On the first back panel at the center back line, mark in 2.5 cm or 1". And connect these marks creating a new line. On this line, this is where we are going to insert the ridgeline boning for the back. Next, get your first front panel and get the halfway of the neckline of the first front panel and mark. And get the halfway of the hemline of the first front panel and mark. And connect these marks creating a new line for the ridgeline placement. And so these are my final corset panels. And do not forget to notch on the bust line of each panel for sewing references. And notch at the front and back ridgeline placements for inserting the ridgeline bones later on. On my chosen fabric, I will cut here my corset panels for both shell and lining. And place my patterns on the grain line on my chosen fabric and cut my patterns on my fabric like so. For the interfacing, I use this medium to heavyweight interfacing to stiffen my shell corset panels. I simply place my corset patterns on my interfacing and cut my patterns on my interfacing like so. Next, prepare your front and back corset lining panels. And sew each seams of the front and back corset lining according to your sewing allowance. For instance, my lining has 1.3 cm or 4.8 inch of sewing allowance on each seam. By the way, press all of the lining seams open for a clean finish. This is the front lining and this is the back lining. Next, sew at the side seams of each back and front lining together. And this is the fully assembled corset lining. Next, prepare your shell and interfacing panels. And on the wrong side of your shell panels, place the side of the interfacing with the adhesive resin. And press the interfacing to the shell panels using your iron. To solidify the bond between the interfacing and the shell, make it sure to leave the iron for about 10 seconds to apply more heat. And once the panels are cooled off, the bond between the interfacing and the shell is solidified and strong. And these are the corset shell panels with interfacing. Next, prepare the back and front panels where we want to place our ridgeline bones. Next, face the panels on the wrong side and mark the notches where we want to place the ridgeline boning. Next, connect these markings creating lines for each panels. These lines represent where we will place and insert the ridgeline boning. Next, from the hemline of each panel, mark up 1 cm or 3.8 of an inch. The reason why we need these markings is to avoid hitting the bones on our sewing machines. And from the neckline of each panel, mark down 1 cm or 3.8 of an inch. Next, get the measurement of each line from mark to mark and record these measurements. Use these measurements for the length of each ridgeline bone that we will place on the panels. And these are the ridgeline boning for each back and front panel. Next, let's conceal each edge of the ridgeline boning. To do this, get a sufficient amount of masking tape and tape each edge of the ridgeline boning to avoid fraying. For me, I like to double it up just to make it sure the tape will stay in place. And do this procedure on each ridgeline boning. Next, place the ridgeline boning right exactly on the line and on the marks. And sew the ridgeline boning from edge to edge to permanently combine it to the panel. And these are the front and back panels with the ridgeline boning. To begin, I will first sew the first four front panels of my corset. And press the first three seams open. And topstitch by 0.6 cm or 2.8 of an inch on each side away from the seam line. These new stitched lines will act as the channels for the plastic boning. Next, let's sew the remaining panels to complete the front corset. On the last two seam lines near the side seam, instead of pressing these seams open, push the seams in one direction and give it a press. And topstitch by 0.6 cm or 2.8 of an inch away from the seam line. Next, sew the back corset panels. And sew each seam according to your sewing allowance. And press the seams open for the third panel. And push the seams in one direction for the second panel near where we inserted our ridgeline boning. On the seam of the third panel, topstitch by 0.6 cm or 2.8 of an inch on each side away from the seam line. And on the seam of the second panel, topstitch by 0.6 cm or 2.8 of an inch away from the seam line. Next, sew the side seams of each back and front shell together. And press the side seams open. And topstitch by 0.6 cm or 2.8 of an inch on each side away from the seam line. Next, on each shoulder slope, mark down 1 cm or 3.8 of an inch. Later on, we will use these marks while sewing the lining and the shell together. Next, pin the lining and the shell corset together. And as you can see, I stopped pinning right exactly on the markings that we did on the shoulder slope. I started sewing first from the center back of the corset and continued on sewing at the back neckline going to the strap. And stopped sewing right exactly on the mark at the shoulder slope. And continued on sewing the armholes and the necklines. Doing the same procedure by stopping or starting the stitch line right exactly on the markings at the shoulder slope. Next, snip or clip off the curved areas of the front and back necklines and the armholes. Clipping or snipping the curved areas help us to lay the seams flat and to ease the tension. Next, press the armhole and neckline seams open. After pressing the seams open, turn the corset from inside out. Next, press the armholes and the necklines again to keep it flat and of course for a crisp looking garment. Next, topstitch by 1 cm or 3.8 of an inch away from the center back. This stitch line will also act as a channel for the plastic boning. Next, from the hemline of the shell of the corset, mark up at least 1 cm or 3.8 of an inch on each channel or the topstitches for the boning that we did a while ago. And take the measurement from the neckline and the armhole until the markings at the hemline. We will depend on these measurements for the length of each plastic boning. Or you could just place the plastic boning on top of the corset and cut the boning according to the length of each channel or topstitches and make it sure that the boning doesn't pass through beyond the markings at the hemline. When you are done cutting out each boning, let's mold or fix the sharp edge of the plastic boning. To do this, get a lighter and light at the edge of the boning and when the edge gets soft, mold the edge to eliminate the sharpness. And we can now insert the plastic boning inside each channel and do the same procedure for the rest of the plastic boning. And this is the corset with all of the plastic boning inserted. Next, paint the lining and the shell hemlines together and sew the hemlines combining both lining and shell. Sew the hemline approximately 0.5 cm or 1.8 of an inch away from the edge. Next, let's work on the straps of the corset. First, face the back and front strap from right side to right side and keep the lining away while we are assembling the shell. Next, paint at the shoulder slope and sew the shoulder slope according to your sewing allowance. For instance, my sewing allowance for the shoulder slope is 0.6 cm or 2.8 of an inch. Next, clip the excess allowance and press the shoulder seam and the lining in one direction. Push the shoulder seam inwards together with the lining of the same side and give it a press. Next, fold the remaining lining at the shoulder inwards and give it a press. Next, hand sew the shoulder slope of the lining to permanently close the seam. And now the shoulder slope of the strap is fully assembled. Next, get the same fabric you used for the shell and the lining. And on the bias area of the fabric, draw a 45-degree diagonal line for the bias strip. And from this line, mark out a 1-inch line for the thickness of the strip and cut out the bias strip from your fabric. And now, we have a bias strip. Next, get your corset and pin the bias strip onto the hem of the corset. And sew the bias strip to the corset. Sew the strip to the hem approximately 0.6 cm or 2.8 of an inch away from the hemline. Next, fold the bias strip towards the wrong side and pin the strip in place. Next, sew the strip on the right side to cover the raw edge of the hem. And sew the strip by 1 mm away from the seam line. Next, on the wrong side, cut out the excess from the bias strip using a snipping tool. Once you've cut out the excess, press the hem for a clean finish. And fold the extra bias strip at the center back inwards and give it a press. Next, fold this extra from the bias strip twice and hand sew for a clean finish. Next, from the stitch line of the center back boning, mark in 0.6 cm or 2.8 of an inch. And from the back neckline, mark down 1 cm or 3.8 of an inch. And from this mark, mark down 2 cm or 6.8 of an inch. And do this procedure to create multiple markings for the eyelets. And I have already inserted the eyelets on one side. And let's work on the other side without the eyelets. To insert the eyelet, use a hole puncher like what I have in here. And just simply punch holes onto the markings that we did earlier. And insert the eyelet onto the hole individually. And use an eyelet puncher to attach the eyelet to the corset permanently. To tie the back corset, I used 0.8 of an inch thick ribbon. And the length is about 2 meters or probably more. Anyway, you can use anything you want to tie the corset. Et voila! So this is my final garment. This is the frontal view. This is the left side view. And this is the back with ribbon tie. And this is the right side view. And this is the close-up details of the corset. Anyway guys, I hope this tutorial gave you enough tips on how to sew the corset. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below and I will reply as soon as possible. And if you like this video, please give it a huge thumbs up. And if you super like this video, please give me a super thanks. And if you're not subscribed yet to my channel La Modulista, make sure to hit that subscribe button and I will see you guys again on the next tutorial. A biento!