 Hi, you guys. Lindsay here. Welcome back to my channel, Inside to Him. All right, get your thinking caps on. This is going to be a very serious endeavor. No, I'm just kidding. It's not that bad. The first time, it might seem a little bit overwhelming, but as you do it more and more, it kind of just becomes second nature. Okay, so here are some materials that you are going to need to decide the pattern piece that you are, I'm sorry, decide the size that you're going to make and also adjust the pattern pieces accordingly. You need measuring tape. I have a variety of rulers. This one's great because the width is five eighths of an inch, nice and long. I get this from Lunagraphix Co. Actually, everything that I'm going to use today, if it is like available for purchase, I will link it in the description box below. So just check that out at the end of the video. I have a seam gauge. I have a hip curve, which looks like this. I have this clear curved ruler. I have a long and wide straight ruler, also see through. I have a pen. I have some scissors. I have tape. I have some strips of tracing paper. I have obviously the pattern envelope and a notebook to write everything down. So we are going to start with, I'm going to get everything cleared away here. We're going to start with the front pattern piece. So I will take the back pattern piece away. Those are the only two pattern pieces we are going to need right now. You have some other pieces for the belt and for the casing, but we don't need any of those right now. We just need this front pattern piece. So to start, and I have this little chart here. So if you want to screen grab this, now's your chance. But basically what I have done is I have taken some measurements. So I have my high bust and I explained to you guys in the last video where that measurement is, basically under your armpits. This is my bust measurement at my bust apex, the like whitest pointiest part of my bust. I have my waist and that again is where you bend over and your body folds in on itself. And the hip is where like the whitest part of your bum, even if it's lower than your hip bones. Alright, so I have my exact measurements there. I take my own measurements every single time. I don't know why it's just out of habit. Okay, then I have, and that will be known as A. And then B is the pattern measurements. And since I got the pattern for extra small, small and medium, I notated the pattern measurements for size medium because that's where I think I am closest. And I grabbed all of those measurements from this column on the back of the pattern envelope on the little flap. If your measurements are closer to small, right down small, extra small, so on and so forth, right? And I wrote all those down. And because this is like a forgiving, easygoing pattern, it's kind of a range. But that's okay. And then I wrote down the actual measurements for size medium. And McCalls always does a really great job of giving those to us. This little circle with a dot notates the bust. This one notates the waist. And can I get all three? Yeah, this one notates the hip. So we've got three little bulls eyes here. And then next to each one of them are the actual garment measurements for each size. Isn't that handy? If that isn't there, if you're using a different pattern, and that isn't there, then you're going to need to measure along those lines, along the little horizontal line there. But McCalls provides them all. So that makes it really easy. So I wrote down that. The bust is 42 and a half, the waist is 43 and a half, and the hip is 49 and a half. All right. And then I wrote down the ease. And the ease is right here, letter C minus letter B. So this column minus this column. And I wrote down those measurements there. Okay. And then I final calculation is E, which is my ease. And my ease is C minus A. The actual pattern measurements against my own pattern or my own measurements. C minus A. So I wrote all those down here. And what I'm trying to do is compare E to D. Okay. Now these, this amount of ease is a lot. And if you're a very beginner sewist, you might not recognize that. But to have eight to 10 inches of ease in your bust is a lot. Like a lot, a lot. Like close fitting dresses probably only have like three inches. So I know I have a little bit of wiggle room here. Okay. It doesn't have to, I don't have to exactly have my ease match this ease. It just has to be in a range that's acceptable for the style of pattern. And they even say in here that this is a loose fitting pattern. And they have some charts that are online that will tell you how much ease a close fitting, semi-fitted, loose fitting, how much ease those patterns should have. So I just compare and see if we're in the range. So for my bust, I feel really good with four and a half inches. For my waist, I feel really good with nine and a half inches. But for my hip, I only have three and a half inches. And even though there is some ease there, I don't think that it will look like the pattern is supposed to look, you know, kind of billowy, drapey, you know, floating away from the body in a really beautiful way. So I want to add some width to the hip. So I have decided to add one inch to the seam allowance, to the side seams, this curve here. And when if I do that to the front, I will get one inch on one side of the front and one inch on the other side of the front for a total of two inches added to the front piece. Similar situation for the back piece for a total of four inches added, which gives me an ease of seven and a half inches in the hip. And I feel really good about that. So one adjustment I'm going to make is to add one inch to the side seam at the hip. And I'll show you guys how to do that here in a second. Okay. So now, so next we need to focus on length. And there are two areas of length that we need to notate. I have pulled out the back pattern piece. And we are going to assess the back length from the neckline to the waistline. And then from the and then from the neckline all the way down to the hem, depending on which length of dress it is that you are going to make. So on the pattern envelope, they have the back waist length measurement written for each size. I'm making a medium. And so we want it to be 16 and a quarter to 16 and a half or I'm sorry, that's what the measurement is 16 and a quarter to 16 and a half. I have measured myself and I am 16 and a half to measure yourself you want to put on a necklace. And wherever the back clasp of that necklace lies, that's the base of your neck. So your measuring tape should start there and then have it hang down naturally to your waistline. If you want to do it yourself, tie a string or a piece of elastic or something at your waistline and then hang the measuring tape from the necklace down to the elastic and take that measurement. When I did that, I got 16 and a half. Okay, you can take your five eighths inch ruler or your seam gauge set to five eighths of an inch and measure from your cut line down five eighths of an inch and make a mark, which is what this first green line is here. Then take your straight ruler and set one end on that green line, come down to your waistline. Let's move this up a little bit. And then I'm getting actually I'm getting closer to like 16 to 16 and an eighth. So we can call that 16 and one eighth. But you need to note this neckline is one inch below base of neck, which means the finished seam line of the neckline of the dress is going to hang one inch below your necklace in theory, your necklace, your base of neck. So when we add an inch like this and measure down, we actually get 17 and one eighth. So 17 and one eighth. So we actually need to remove an inch from the waistline in order for it to be 16 and a half, like I am. If you don't remove this extra length from the, you know, top portion of your dress, you could get a lot of pooling in the lower back where the fabric kind of starts to pull or collect where your body curves out for your bum. It can just kind of pull there and create a lot of drag lines that isn't super beautiful. So you want to make sure to check that measurement. And then you want to check your neckline all the way down to your hem. And the pattern does not provide final measurements for the length of the dress, the full dress. They only do the top, the bodice portion. So you have to take your ruler or your measuring tape and measure down from your neck seam line, which is this first line here, I mean the second line here, and measure all the way down. And this will vary depending on which length you're making. I decided to make view a, which is the knee length version. And so view a is 37 and a quarter inches from finished neckline measurement down to the cut line. Then you have to subtract the hem seam allowance, which is written right here. Him is 587 inch. Okay. So you subtract that from your measurement. And I'm getting a total final measurement of 36 inches and five eighths. Now I like for my knee length patterns to be 38 and a half inches. So I need to remove one and seven eighths of an inch from the total length. But don't forget, I am removing one inch already from the waist. So I really only need to remove seven eighths because I subtract the one inch from the waist adjustment. Okay. So I only need to take off just shy of an inch. And it also gives length and shorten lines for the hem is right along the hem. And length and shorten lines for the waist is this double line here. All right. So I've got three adjustments I need to make. I need to add an inch to the side seams at the hip line. I need to remove an inch from the waist and I need to reduce the hem line by seven eighths of an inch. Okay. All of the math is done. There's no more math. I promise that is it. The confusing parts are over. So now we need to focus on one adjustment at a time. I'm going to remove the front piece out of the way. And we're only going to focus on the back. So for the back pattern piece, I have two adjustments. I have the waist and I have the hem. So let's go ahead and cut off. You can obviously trace these pattern pieces off onto full link tracing paper. If you don't want to cut up your pattern, that might be a good idea for those of you who are beginners and you're not very confident with your measurements. But I'm a rebel and I'm just going to go for it. And I'm going to cut this pattern tissue. So I'm going to cut along the line for the size medium, which is this lower one. I'm going to cut all along there. And that is going to be the cut line for my hem. And also the line that I'm going to use, I'm going to base the adjustment, the seven eighths inch adjustment off of this line here. Okay. I love that the hem is a little bit curved too. That's really nice. And then you can take this piece here and a pencil. And you can, I like to write the pattern piece number, the pattern itself 7405, 7405. And then I like to write bottom of back. That way, if I'm ever deciding to add this back on, I can always just, I know where it goes. Okay. So move that to the side. Then I need to measure seven eighths of an inch all along that line. So I have moved my seam gauge to seven eighths of an inch. And I'm going to place that little red part along the edge and mark. And you want to do this every inch or so. The closer you put them together, the easier it'll be to connect them and not have squiggly lines. Right. Now we've got that. So now we want to connect all of those lines together. I like to use one of these rulers that have a little bit of a curve to it, simply because the hemline has a little bit of curve to it too. But so that is going to be our new hemline. Take your scissors, cut that off. And if you want, you can keep this piece too. You'll label it the same way. That way, if you ever decide that, you know what, I cut that a little bit too short and you can add it back on. Perfect. So that is our new hem. Similarly, for the waistline, we are taking out in a whole inch. So what we need is to take this length and shorten line and we need to measure up half an inch. So take the half inch line and put it all along that top line and mark this. Now you are going to cut along the top line of this double line. When you put this up to the half inch line, you can see you're removing half an inch from this pattern piece right here. So find your tape, attach these two pieces together at this new marking. And you want to make sure that the center back seam is straight and that this grain line seam is also straight. I like to use a gridded under mat so that you can make sure that they are straight all the way up and down and not off in any fashion. So my grain line is straight. It is straight all the way down. The pattern is at that half inch mark. So place a nice big piece of tape right there. Okay and now do that all along the rest of the length and shorten line. Perfect. So this line is completely straight and this line is completely straight. But if you notice here ever so slightly, those do not make a straight line and that is normal because you have shortened it and you've taken out a little bit of that natural grading that happens there. So you need to take another curved ruler and you can use the other one that I showed earlier too if that's better. But match up as best you can along that curve. Something like that. Take your pen. I'll use this one because it shows up a little bit better. And make a new curve. Okay like so. I mean it is, I mean you're adding like a sliver but slivers add up. So that is going to be the new side seam for my back piece and this is completely done now. My third and final adjustment is to add some width to the side seam for the front and the back. So I am going to take my tracing paper and lay it underneath the pattern piece keeping the tape nearby. And I only need to add the width really only at the hip. And you can see from our front pattern piece that the hip is roughly should be nine inches. Let's see. So measure that line, the waist line and maybe I should do it upside down. Okay so I just want to make sure you guys can see it well. The waistline horizontal line and the hip line horizontal line should be roughly around nine inches. This one is a little bit closer to eight and a quarter. So we'll go with that eight and three quarters actually. Move this guy out of the way. And then from our waistline we can draw in the waistline and make sure that perpendicular line is the center vaccine and or the grain line. And then the horizontal line is the waistline. Draw that in. And then measure eight and eight, would we say eight and three quarters down from that. So eight and three quarters is something like that. Perfect. And the perpendicular line should be your length and shorten line and then your waistline. And so this is our hip line here. Okay so somewhere in that vicinity is where the the one inch needs to be and then it needs to grade in to match up with the waist and then grade out for the hem. So it doesn't make like a cocoon shape. So we can take our tape and where this this all this extra tracing paper doesn't really need to be lined up with anything. You just need to make sure you have enough to do your one inch adjustment. Okay so we are going to put down some tape here like so. And this is our cut line. So find your seam gauge. Find the one inch on your seam gauge. Find your hip line and put that little doodad right on the seam line. And then draw in your new seam line. Then you can take your seam gauge and just draw in that extra inch all the way down because we're going to maintain that extra width all the way down to our new hem. Okay so we've got our one inch added there. Take your curve ruler your hip curve this is called and line up the curve with that one inch mark and the mark's going all the rest of the way here. There we go. So you can see I've made all those extra marks and then match up this beautiful curve with those lines like so. Okay and then you're going to naturally start grading it in. So go ahead and just make a nice big swoop. It doesn't even matter if it crosses past your waistline. What you're trying to do is marry this line with this line right. So we need a beautiful natural looking S curve to go in here. So flip your hip curve the other way or use the see-through ruler and it goes this way and try and combine right the natural curve of the hip that we just drew in with our extra one inch. Combine that with the waistline of the pattern which is this blue line here because we don't want to add anything to the waist we only want to add it to the hip. So find out where that is and it's going to take some playing around a little bit. It's not going to be you know no ruler is going to have your body shape so you just want to make sure that you are getting them close. So there's another little hip line so we can try and combine them a little bit more shaving off a little bit each time maybe like that. Okay so now we've got this little intersection here which can be a little bit janky looking. So you just keep rounding it out, curving it out each time combining the line before the one you just drew. Okay now that looks good. See we have a beautiful line here grading out ever so slightly to our hip line which is right there. Okay so that is going to be our new sighting. Mark off your hip to add the extra inch and then you will cut out your new sighting. Don't forget to keep your little sliver in there that we added. This gets talked in like so and then really we can chop off this tracing paper like way down here because we only get it from like here on. Okay so there is our new sighting. Isn't that beautiful? Actually this is our completely finished back pattern piece with all of the adjustments made so now you'll go in and cut away you know all of these extra bits in my case all along the size medium and then once you've finished doing that we need to adjust the front pattern piece. So for the front we need to make the same adjustments that we made to the back exactly so we are going to just repeat the three steps that we just did for adjusting the bottom hem adjusting the weight the length of the waist and adding that one inch to the side seam of the front. So the same three adjustments we just made to the back you get to practice again and add them to the front and once you're done with that then you are completely done you picked out your size you have adjusted your pattern pieces and we are ready to cut fabric. So keep in mind that my body measurements and the adjustments that I've had to make are specific to me whatever you discover from doing this process is specific to you so you may not need to take anything out of the waist or you may need to lengthen the hem it's all going to be very personalized to you. So I get that this portion is a little bit confusing I am going to be checking the comment section regularly for all of my more experienced sewists if you could help me out and check the comment section too you never know if you may be able to help answer someone's question and we'll try and get each get everybody help each other out and get everyone through this first step so we can start cutting into fabric but that is going to do it for today's video. I'll see you back here soon. Bye!