 Hey guys, this is Matt Beck from free salon education calm and I'm here with that and Justin Justin Scott and We're gonna be doing some haircutting. This is fse live number 11. This is our second season of this I guess Get get the DVD box set But yeah, so we're gonna be doing some haircutting. This is really just to have some fun guys Where our salon day starts in in 40 minutes about so I'm just gonna do a round graduation with you all and And if you have any questions, you can type them on the chat So thank you to those of you that are joining us live Thank you to Millennium Systems International demand force Pricado super silk and Minerva beauty for supporting free salon education calm so you could see all the new videos and everything on Our website now. We're gonna go over a round graduation. This is one of my favorite things to cut So I'm gonna do it It's all wet and then maybe in the next cutting video. We'll do some dry detail work I want to keep these videos as short as possible. So we're not gonna go through and Fully blow dry smooth it and do all that because it's a live class So we're gonna work on the wet cut today and the next time we'll go in and do the dry cutter So the keys with round graduation are really focusing on the head shape and also on your elevation You really what you want to decide how much weight you want to build up in the haircut or how much weight you want to remove throughout the round The round movement of the haircut. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna start off and that'll tell me Make sure that the mannequins nice in the camera And what I'm gonna do is comb the hair in the direction Of the the head shape basically so if I want to be working Diagonal back I'm gonna be working with a low elevation to begin and then as I work through it I'm gonna decide how much I want to elevate the hair based on how much density and how much weight I want to leave in the haircut. So I'm gonna start by combing it back I'm gonna work a diagonal back parting Through the hair and then all I'm gonna do is take take one of my clips and just clip the rest of the hair away So I'm just working with this part of the haircut right around the temple area Just a good view that or should I turn a little bit? You're liking it. All right, if you like it, I like it We're gonna be about right here a little twist better. All right so now Gonna work the low elevation like I said really the reason I want to start off with a low elevation right at the cheekbone The scissor angle is back is Because I really want to build a strong line in the haircut if I elevate it too much at this point It's gonna diffuse that line right away and that's not my goal With this particular haircut, but if you wanted to you could if you want a little bit more of a shattered line You could start with a higher elevation So now we're gonna work our way back and The key to cutting around shape is to follow the head shape. So my feet are constantly moving Yeah You're having a what a Rubbing sound I Don't know. Maybe it's my cheeks Maybe my cheeks are hitting it. Yeah, exactly All right, so I'm gonna I want to clean this section up just a little bit Because we're gonna work all the way around to the opposite side of the head to start Let me know So there is gonna be a little bit of an extra elevation right in the nape area So once I get around to this side and I'm flat and I'm working straight across the back Now I'm gonna move into just cutting right along the neck for the beginning part of the haircut So I want to come in here. You see that that? I'm gonna follow The neckline that way so we've worked all the way over to that corner edge And now I'm gonna move back to the front again The hardest part about cutting around graduation and the reason it's you know difficult for some people is because you're constantly moving And if you're constantly moving, it's hard to stay consistent in a haircut So just make sure that you know where you're at The whole entire time that you're cutting comb that down I'm gonna comb and clip Rest of the hair away. All right, you can let me know if that's better Let's see better that So far so good So as I work through now, I'm going to drop some of the section I don't want to pick up all the hair in my hand if I do that it diffuses my guide So then I'm going to Be confused when I lift it up on where I want to cut the hair So just grab a little bit of that old hair And now I'm gonna start with an elevation. We're gonna be working at about a 45 degree elevation So 90 would be all the way up here. We're gonna start at about 45 degrees I want to build up some weight Within the haircut. I like practicing that You can see how it's gonna fall nice and soft and talk to him that better Again grabbing some of the old But not all of it in my hand and remember as you shift around the head shape Bring her up. Yeah How's that as I'm moving around the head shape What's happening is when we round this corner, then we get the occipital bone in there So the occipital bone is gonna change our elevation completely So I want to make sure as I come around I was at a 45 degree angle here But if I kept that same elevation throughout now, I'm at a 90 degree elevation or even above 90 degrees Because 90 would be down here. So I want to start really dropping My elbow as I work around this shape to keep that consistent 45 degree angle there and I'm gonna cut straight across at the back here That's really just because I'm gonna cut that weight off later But I don't need to start rounding it up yet. I'm gonna drop this a slight bit. It's okay with you Okay, okay. How's the sound of my breathing loud? Okay Yeah I'm still breathing hard from the mud run a few days ago. Good morning, Cyprian. It's actually probably the evening for him Thanks for joining us nice Pretty good for not marketing it whatsoever All right, so we're working our way around. I have a little bit for my guideline again keeping it at 45 degrees Normally in the salon. I obviously would not have to turn her head so much, but I would turn myself around her But because we're shooting this video This haircut looks great on On curly hair. It looks fantastic. It's one of my favorite shapes to cut on curly hair. Is it just really expands it out? So this haircut really looks good on any texture I think but I think it looks best on curly hair and it's one of my favorite things to cut on so dropping The elevation more because I'm working in the back Just like before You can really see how That round kind of feel to the haircut and as you brush it back This is something that's good for women and men if you go shorter a nice and tight to the head This is great for men's cutting because as it combs back. It has a nice flow to it Really seamless feel and that's what the round shapes all about Yeah, the greaser kind of slipped, but really I love this as more Even though this isn't going to be necessarily a full haircut that you're going to do on somebody It's a great technique to practice because of how much you're moving within the haircut So it's good for practicing consistency when you're cutting hair grab a little bit of the old again back towards this so You'll see now we're starting to work on the top of the head so my elevation is getting even higher As we round that corner that will just soften the edge I mean you guys have probably all cut or seen somebody cut a graduation that is just so heavy And that's really all because the head shape is changing as They're cutting hair, but they're not changing. So you really want to make sure So now instead of having my elevation all the way up my hand is dropping Slightly and then as I work in the back, it'll drop even more You could cut the whole perimeter. I like to work One side and then work the other that's really the only reason and But you could go through and continue all the way back up if you want to there's nothing nothing wrong with that It's just my personal preference. I'm gonna leave some of this hair out and disconnect it as well So I'm gonna start well stabbing myself Was Stabbing them into my chest. All right So now what we're gonna do is I'm gonna comb the rest of the hair back again Just like I did at the beginning of my clip here What now I'm gonna use her cheekbone just like I did in the first place now That doesn't mean that they're always symmetrical But I can always go in and check it after I cut just to make sure that they match up But I really like to work Towards the back. I don't because I just like the cutting flow of it It's my personal preference. You could wrap all the way around and then come back up the front I think either way you have to check it Anyways, so I think do whatever makes you comfortable in that situation So that's what I'm gonna do first is go through just like I did in the first place using a facial facial feature facial feature Facial feature as my guide And make my cut same. What's that? Well, and really you're getting started. That's a good point. I mean you're getting started knowing. Yeah Yeah. Oh, yeah, so we have no idea what you said So Justin saying because because of teaching for so long I actually don't remember what you said, but I know I'm gonna re put it in my words So the reason I like to start in the front both times is because if I worked all the way around here And I didn't stay consistent and I end up a little bit longer on one side And then I finish and do the whole entire haircut and then I step back and my haircuts done and one side's longer than the Other side then I have to go back in and completely redo the haircut this way. I did one side I know where I stand with that now I start the other side and I line it up and make sure that they match up and then I go in and Cut the rest of the haircut So this just allows me to know that I'm starting in the right position For the haircut did that sum up kind of what you were saying, okay? I should have got you a mic set up I don't know what my problem is Yeah, you could do that Justin That mic's on it's number. It's It's Christina's five so that's when you're using I Think you're for that What sheers these are the Mizetani DB 20. It's my favorite test scissor You're good. Yes. So just He did I Love the DB 20. I actually the type Z2 is my favorite scissor and you guys know that from watching the videos but my type Z2 needs sharpened so DB 20 is my second. I also I love I like an almost six inch scissor. So that's my preference We just came out with the FSC scissor, which is the six and a half inch. I love this for scissor over comb But I don't use it for my main cutting scissor in that way. So All right continuing on Justin's got a mic now. So if you want to hear his voice Turn the face away like this. Hey guys Yeah That's good to know. All right working through having a Because I'm forcing the head around today having issues with head movement here All right, so now I left that corner earlier So now I'm just rounding off that corner And connecting it with the rest of the haircut That's why it's not that big of a deal to just go straight through And not start up already working diagonal back. I would say I'm taking about half inch partings in The hair you don't want to go too thick Basically, I want to make sure when I comb my parting down my section down I can see the guide through it. Then I know that I don't have too much hair in my hand keeping my finger angle parallel with the parting another key teacher here And it's second nature for you to most people again I watch people try to recreate these especially when he used to teach and even other educators They just they cut past that second knuckle. They take sections that are way too big for them to handle and I think that's one key Why these lines are so clean? Because you don't yeah, it's definitely important for sure Sup Dreia Welcome to work What time is it guys? 1032 We still got some time. Hey, Matt Dreia got me all freaked out. I was like, oh my gosh Clients are coming. Hey Matt. What do you think you'll do a haircut an extremely curly hair? What's that? When do you think you'll do a haircut on extremely curly hair? I need to get some extremely curly hair I think that's the only problem because it's one of my favorite things ever in the salon Those are gonna become more of the point of view videos than the like FSE live classes And then eventually I'll find a model or something that has extremely curly hair, but I definitely love cutting curly hair There you go, and I will make sure that I was actually just in the store the other day looking at go-pros because I'm gonna make not make I'm gonna have one available so everyone can wear one on their head Whenever they want I'm hearing the feedback now. You know like transformers when like all the technology goes crap It's that weird kind of crunchy noise in the background. Yeah, you sound like you're a robot. Really? Yeah, you're you're a robot and you're breaking the microphone like I always sound like I'm a robot or just no like Occasionally it comes and goes okay No, no, that's I hear it in Really the sip still here in it. All right, so I'm working up towards the parietal ridge area here Clipping the rest away. That's about where I stopped on the other side. So I want to leave some disconnection in the haircut So that later on when we do a dry cutting portion of this we can have some fun with it So again elevation this is 90 so I'm going about halfway there just to give me That build up of weight, but not too extreme. I think you need it more than that You can see I'm just grabbing and dropping Yeah Dropping that elevation Working through now. We have that long disconnect. I'm actually going to take up We're gonna clip that hair away Once we get that twisted out of the way I'm gonna go through and just do a quick cross check of my round shape in there So obviously if I went diagonal back to cut the hair now I can work diagonal forward and just check the haircut I like to start just right here into the back and work diagonal forward this way Now the key is to take really small sections and I'm all I'm doing is slightly fine tuning Turn so just taking really small quarter inch sections and Just checking them and dusting off the ends That's all I really want to do I don't want to take too much hair in my hand if I pull too much a lot of people go to cross check I remember in beauty school my teacher would come over. What's that? Yeah How about after I talk? I'm getting into an important point that and then so So we're working so we'll work quarter inch sections my beauty school teacher. I Remember one of them. I'm not not that one not the one that's watching. Hopefully We'll go through and they would grab to cross check and they would grab a ton of hair at once To cross check but you can't do that because as soon as you grab a lot of hair and you pull it up in your hand You're stretching it from too far away So you're not getting a clean line showing anything because as I bring this hair out here This is all Individually stretch straight out now if I take a larger section now I'm pinching it in So it'd be like if I took a horizontal section and cut it pinched like this You're gonna get a different outcome than if you take a horizontal section and you cut a line like this So when you're cross-checking don't grab too much hair. Just grab a tiny bit of hair and Dust dust the ends and clean it off So we'll go through and I'll just straight out from the head all the way around cross-check check the whole haircut and then We can go on later And I'm going to cut that disconnection So to tie in the disconnection. We'll probably just do something fun. We got time, right? So I'll work this side fingers facing down making sure we're nice and clean Everything's good So now I'm gonna let down what will be a disconnection. I'm gonna comb it straight back And it will be disconnected But obviously I don't want to leave it this long and then blow it dry. There's no point I want to give it a little Shape for a second there. It looks like a new age mullet. I know like all work on the top part It's all part of my evil plan Yeah Pretty sweet-looking actually, I think we should just leave it, but I think that's great The the world of YouTube will definitely complain about that one All right, they're gonna take our car. I'm going vertical back And I'll turn it that I Will turn it. All right, so a vertical back here I'm gonna cut this section in half so I'm not trying to work with the whole thing down Yeah, I'm gonna work up. All right So our guide we're not gonna use because if we use a guy he connects everything together There's no point in a disconnection. So I do want to know where that I Line is gonna start So that I don't go too crazy But I'm gonna elevate straight up go past that guideline and start cutting First I did pass my second knuckle. That's to get all the hair out of the way I'm quitting. I lost all hope in you And then I go through and I clean up the line the second knuckle Nazi people I was the worst about that I'd carry spray bottle with me spray them right in the face as a laser beam I'd get them across the classroom in the ear Okay, so now I'm working Straight up. There is a slight diagonal I To it think change of my finger angle a bit. I'm just to push a little extra weight to the front I might use a little bit later But keeping that disconnection over the back that we're gonna work with in the dry cutting in our next Segment all of this is coming straight out from the head Using what I just cut as my guideline past the second knuckle Then shifting If any hips are stranded on an island with his man bun and if it grew out This is what it would look like before you cut all that top off And this looks great on curly hair as well because you're leaving that extra Disconnected part over the top. So you have your real strong shape at the bottom and then your extra Kind of disconnection that gives it that curl kind of bounce. So if your structure on the bottom anything here This is all gonna get cut into again in the dry cut, but I like to just get it Somewhat where I want it and do the same thing on the opposite side Now here's a question for you when I'm gonna cut like this with hair like that Would you switch up your combs maybe to a longer one with the? It's more teeth to it if you're trying to comb through some bigger sections like wider teeth. Yeah, um Have you ever in issues with it depends on the hair type, you know like I I Like working with I don't really ever like working with a longer comb That's just my personal preference, but I do like to Work with wider teeth went on curly maybe denser texture our denser Hair so it just really depends on the person Right now. I'm just dealing with a mannequin. Let's give me a A tough time Because it's not human now. Did you make a cutting serum for that? I did I use the brocato Gel that I really like It's not even because it's a cutting serum I just like putting the product in pre haircut So you can see how that kind of builds up and then we got some disconnects in there Actually really liking these so I think I'm gonna leave them like that Turn her You can see if it was on curly texture how that kind of lifts up obviously I'm gonna cut into some of this other stuff I like having these things. What time is it guys? 1044 yeah, so from this episode what I would say is practice your round graduation cutting that way what we're gonna do is next time when we get into The next FSE live haircutting edition we're going to go in and dry cut this same haircut We're gonna do the detail work around the sides. We're gonna mess with the disconnections And really just show you guys the finished shape result So if you guys have any questions, you could type them in now Otherwise we have splitting hairs tonight Which is every Wednesday night at 7 30 Eastern Standard Time? And that's pretty much it you can you know when the next live cutting class gonna be the next live class We're gonna do them once a month Right now through the summer to get through the summertime. So we will have another live class Next month around the same date. So whatever the last Wednesday of the month is that doesn't mean it's gonna be cutting It could be something else So we're gonna put out a schedule that'll be on free salon education calm for all the upcoming FSE live classes And that's pretty much it anything else on there Justin. Nope. Everybody's kind of we got 23 viewing now Which is awesome. Nice early on a live class. It's cool. Thanks guys. Yeah So All right guys. Well, thank you so much for watching FSE live Number 11 and we will see you guys next time on number 12 next month Last Wednesday of the month remember and check out free salon education calm. We'll see you next time Watch splitting hairs the hairdressers podcast live every Wednesday night at 7 30 p.m. Eastern Standard Time or as close as we can get