 Hi you guys! Lindsay here. Welcome back to my channel Inside the Hymn. I just recently and quite honestly I'm a little disappointed with myself that it took me this long to realize this but I just recently discovered that there is a challenge out there, a monthly challenge that I've been completely oblivious to. You guys know that I do So My Style which is a monthly challenge. I also challenged myself to like a monthly refashion but pattern review has been doing a bird of style monthly challenge for some time now and I've had no clue. And I think it's because I really haven't been paying much attention to bird of style patterns to be honest. I think I tried unsuccessfully a few of them earlier on in my sewing when I wasn't as skilled as I am now and found them to be incredibly discouraging and frustrating. The instructions are very hard to follow for me simply because there aren't any drawings associated with them. So if you're a visual person it is very difficult to just read text and interpret what that text means. Also I found the fit of their patterns to be a little bit off. You know I'm used to big four patterns which are a little bit more generous in the sizing and I feel like bird of style is the opposite of that and if anything you have to size up instead of size down no matter what your measurements say you know what I mean. So all of those things considered I think I kind of just like wrote off board a style for a few years but I was um recently I guess I went I must have seen an email where they had released um a new collection. I think they do a new collection every month um and saw a dress on there and it was really adorable and really cute and very inspiring especially because I had just gotten all of that Carolina Herrera fabric in New York City and I thought this dress would be perfect for it um so I was kind of like browsing around the website and found that there is this challenge and so despite all of my reservations about bird of style I want to get in on that um and in order to help make the process a little bit easier I have two tools that will help you guys and hopefully help me too. So bird of style patterns do not come with seam allowance. In a nutshell it has its pros and its cons. The things I love about it are that if you need to make fit adjustments you don't have to subtract out the seam allowance. If you have to take measurements like you have to measure the circumference of a skirt at the hip line for example which I would probably need to do especially because I'm double checking the fit um you don't have to do that extra math you just literally measure across and that's what the circumference is all good. The downside is when you're ready to sew you have to add them all back in which can be a pain in the neck. Entering the pain in the neck reliever these seam allowance curve rulers from my friend Claire at Luna Graphics Co. I've talked about her products before she has really really great stuff. She's the one that did that has the um sleeve placket template that I did the video on I'll link that here for you guys um she also has those curve runners it's like pizza cutters but with measurements on them they're also really great I have a video coming up on those in the next couple months showing you all the various ways that I use those and she also has these which are great so you've probably seen curve rulers before I mean there's hip curves there's arm size there's I mean these are not anything special or unique but what make hers really great are that the width of them so this distance between my forefinger and my thumb same here is 5 eighths of an inch so it makes super super quick work of adding all those seam allowances around all of those finicky curves so today I thought I would show you how easy and quick it is to add the seam allowances to the bird of style pattern that I'm going to be using or any pattern that doesn't come with seam allowance um how easy it is to add that to the pattern using these rulers so let's cut to it all right so I have gone ahead and traced off all of my pattern pieces here let's work on the back um bodice here and I'll zoom us in a little bit so you guys can see the lines better and we'll work on the neckline so not an extreme curve here but still one nonetheless so you just want to find the ruler that makes the most sense for this type of curve um and then you're going to try you're going to try and like scoot it around until you find something that mimics the shape of that curve so I'm not getting a lot on that one but when I get up here it's getting closer getting closer so now I've got a couple of inches here where it matches so because this is 5 eighths of an inch I just draw that line in and then it does flatten out a little bit so we've got another match for a few more inches draw that line in and then finally get this last little curve over here and give yourself enough clearance on each side because you are going to also add um seam allowance to the center back this center back normally they're straight these are not this is also on a curve so I want to make sure I honor that and give myself a good nice long stroke there um so you can tell how quickly this starts to um you know fill itself in with the help of these um curve rulers you just gotta take a little bit of time to match up the original curve and then you can draw in a whole bunch um all at once and you know not have to worry about taking that little um hem gauge and going on and on and on so it's really quick and fast work of adding the seam allowances to our pattern pieces so I'm going to continue on um finishing adding the seam allowances to all the pattern pieces here a few minutes I mean I know I sped that up um but it was about 10 minutes for me to trace um what do we have here 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 pattern pieces um obviously you need to do this to the skirt and any others that you have um this is just my bodice and some facings but clearly you need to do it to everything um but once you get it all traced out um you want to go back in and anywhere where there's a notch or like a um any kind of sewing you know information that you need to transfer onto your pattern pieces and then your fabric you want to go ahead and draw those in through the seam allowance so that you know you can clip your notch where it needs to be clipped um and I like to go ahead and draw in like little circles where the dart will be um and then finish off the dart legs as well just to make sure you have everything in line there um and then you're ready to cut out um the only bit of advice I have and here's an example right here is I didn't put this one far enough away from piece number two to allow me to draw in the seam allowance for piece two so I had to redraw the piece two over here um so just make sure when you're laying out your pattern pieces originally that you give them a lot of space in between here's one that was like cutting it really close um just to make sure you can cut everything out you know fully and not have to like cut any corners no pun intended but yeah so that's how you use the lunographics co um seam allowance curve rulers um to add seam allowances to your pattern pieces so you can see there that it makes super super quick work of adding seam allowances to any of these patterns that don't come with seam allowance already included but I also wanted to add that if for whatever reason you need to subtract seam allowance like if you're using a big four pattern and you find yourself always having to make a um a full bust adjustment or a small bust adjustment or full seat adjustment or small any of those adjustments that you have to make all the time they require you to mark the seam allowances or mark the seam line on the pattern pieces before you start making wedges and moving things around these are also just as great for that whether you're adding it or subtracting it um the five eighths measurement on these is pretty brilliant and it makes just super quick work of something that can be really tedious without a really great tool so honestly I love having these in my kit um they are see-through as you can tell so it makes it super easy to see those um either seam lines or seam allowance lines if you're adding or subtracting or whatever um there's also various measurements within the five eighths so each each eighth of an inch is marked here um also among every curve so if you only wanted to do three eighths or a quarter or whatever you could you know use these for that as well but yeah I really love them and as you saw you know it really does make quick work of adding or subtracting seam allowances and Claire has been super generous and she is getting all of the inside the hem viewers out there a coupon code where you can buy your own seam allowance curve rulers or anything else on your site on her site um it is it h20 and that will get you 20 off your entire purchase now through august the 20th it h20 through the 20th so it should be pretty easy to remember head over there link in the description box so that you can get to her at C shop and purchase yourself some tools whether it's these the sleeves placket template the curve runners are awesome there she's got a lot of really great stuff there so I'll be sure to you know keep you guys posted on the bird of style dress and you know what it looks like I'll model it and everything for you guys so stay tuned for that but until then I will see you all very soon bye