 one of the very best Sony Trinitron CRT monitors available on the market. That is the Sony PVM 2005, which we're looking at right here. This one has just come into the shop and we're going to take an initial look at it. But first, if this is your first time to the channel, please consider adding us to your subscription list. If you do like this content, we also do a lot of other things with CRTs and retro technologies and collections of all sorts. So please check out any one of our playlists for something that might be helpful or informative to you. But now let's get back to this monitor. So this monitor is one of the most prized monitors for the CRT collector and that is mainly because of the many features it offers. This one does not only do a great job when it comes to retro gaming and 240p content and it will display beautiful scan lines, but it also goes beyond that and allows you to do things in other formats such as 480p, 720p, and I believe even 1080i. Anything you can do with HDSDI or Component. So let's just take a first initial look around here. I want to talk about some of the features that Sony added specifically to this model. Let us start here at the front of the monitor. You'll notice here on this, as you will see, multi-format power and energize your PVM. There is an LED indicator down here that shows when there is power onto this unit. And just what I wanted to highlight here is this control bar. So you don't see anything right now, but if you hit that control button, you're going to pull up a lot of features. And they're pretty self-explanatory. They match a lot of the things we've talked about before, but the reason I'm pulling this up is because this is not brand new. This was something that was used in the 2030 models from the early 90s, but Sony got so smart at the time they made this monitor. They went back. They took that design to have a sleeker look on the outside, but had the same functionality of those buttons. So they went back and used that old format for these buttons to bring them to this later model, which again is pretty much one of the last PVM CRTs to be produced. That's just what I wanted to show there. So easily to get that on and off by pressing that control button. And then you push that button again to de-interjize the monitor. I've moved our picture a little bit to the side here so you can see something else that was great that was done with this particular PVM is there is a way to remove this screen bezel without just taking the whole monitor apart. So if you had a problem in the past, we had some kind of damage to the exterior on this bezel, which may have nothing to do with the internal functionality of the monitor. But on an older monitor, every other monitor that was a PVM, other than the very small eight inch monitors that were originally made, you had to actually disassemble the entire PVM and even remove the CRT tube and everything basically break the entire monitor down just to get the bezel off and replace it with another bezel. Not on this one. You've actually got four screws, one here, one here, and then two on the other side that you can remove. And this bezel just comes right off. So we will be doing that to clean it. And so what I want to do right now is I'm just going to take these screws out. And when you come back, we'll see what it looks like without the bezel. Okay. So all I've done is removed my four screws and I've kind of slipped the bezel out just a touch. And please remember that your power button right here will just slip out and fall out since there's nothing keeping pressure on it and it's not back in its original spot. So do not lose this or you'll have trouble and do not lose either any of the screws from the bezel. But what I wanted you to show you here was that you can take this bezel out and kind of lift it and move it out like here so you could see we've got our controls. There's a light fixture on the front here indicated that will tell us a certain mode. If we trip it into that mode that will light up the front on that bar. These other wires go into our controls on the side of our control board here. But if you were to have some kind of trouble with that bezel, it is replaceable or you can get it around here so you can get a good chance to what we'll do is clean actually around our CRT screen. You can see too here. This is a great example. There's actually a anti-glare layer on this layer of this CRT. So if you had a scuff, I have heard in the past of people peeling that layer off of their monitor screen. And then they don't have the anti-glare layer. But if you're in a dark room and using the CRT, it won't matter much anyway. But that is a way to get rid of any small scuffs on this version of the PVM. And it's something to look for if you are buying this PVM to make sure somebody hasn't pulled it off already because if it doesn't have that anti-glare, I feel like it does decrease from the value. And that's not something you'll be able to just see on an internet picture. So that's how that bezel comes off and works. We're going to clean it up and we'll go through that in another video. But that's just the part on the bezel. Let's look at some more things on the outside of this monitor first. Now something else that's different about the design on this PVM a little bit is there's not a mono speaker that you can see on the front. There is a mono speaker inside the PVM, but it's not visible as it was in the other earlier models that you could tell where the speaker is. You can't see it visually from the front. So another thing to note is this does have a slightly smaller frame. So it doesn't take up nearly as much space, a couple of inches less overall than a cube-sized or the larger-sized Sony PVMs that would be a 20L2, the 20M2, 1954Q, et cetera, anything along those lines. This is a slightly smaller version. It does have the same types of setups as a 20L2 down here. And when we go through and clean it, we'll take a closer look at that. But what I want to focus on this part of the video is this back area here. Then we put video card or blank area over here. This is a spot on our PVM where we can add an additional supporting video card. Now, there's only a specific few cards that will fit in this one. There is an HDSDI or SDI board that I do have a cup of one of in storage, but I don't really use it. But we will do some tests with that later on with the HD signal and see how that looks on this monitor. Today, I wanted to show you this board, which sometimes people are looking for. It's a Sony BKM129X. It's for an additional RGB input and output or a component input and output. And today, I was just going to show you, if you do end up getting these, how simple it is to install this board. There's no software to install. First off, you want to look in there and make sure you're on the right side, which the board should go on the furthest outside portion. And it should just simply slide in. And then it just has a little push in, a little bit of force you could feel the cartridge kind of go into the slot there. And then you just can hand turn these little screws on the back of this. And that will have, there you go. You've got your card install. And that's as simple as there is. And then you should have one of these to go with this card, which is just a blank filler. This monitor cannot support two additional cards. But sometimes the SDI card is wider than the simple component card we just installed. So this one, you just got to kind of work it in there a little bit. And then it too is hand tightened in. And that way, you don't have an open space there for your monitor. It's just to keep that area clean from dust, et cetera. But I wanted to show you how to improperly install that. And then you'll be able to use the standard OSD. It'll automatically detect what's in there in that hardware. So it's very easy to insert and change out boards on this as you have them. And you need to use different formats. It's very simple to change that on this particular PVM. OK, back here in front of the monitor with it turned on for the first time. You can see just how great and crisp everything maybe looks from there. But what I wanted you to notice here too is that there are some issues on the screen that we're going to have to do for calibration. And so today, we're not going to start that calibration. But I want you to see, maybe what I can show you here. I can already tell that we've got an issue where the yoke is slightly tilted, which is a good thing because we'll be able to have an opportunity in the next video to adjust the yoke. And I can show you the new techniques to adjust the yoke on this 20L5, which should translate to other do, a geometry adjustment on the screen, at least its centerness and its size to expand it out to be the right size of the screen. One last thing about this bezel. You'll notice there are some slots in here. This bezel, you can insert a 16 by 9 widescreen bezel. The input for this, if you wanted to have widescreen on this monitor and it would condense your screen size to a screen like this, but there is a bezel attachment. So it will block out the blank screen parts if you, for some reason, wanted to do that. But I don't think anybody would want to do that. So just so you know how to operate this control menu, I've got it pulled up here. Again, you'll see we've got line A, B, RGB, and component. And if we hit exit sync, look what happens. So it goes crazy. But see, if you put back your external sync, it's going to go back into that. So that was just a RGB internal sync without the external sync mode. And so you can switch over to component like that too. We've got underscanned. We've got that 16 by 9 squished screen format. We've got a blue only, which is really helpful for getting your grays color aligned. And then we've got our mono audio, just a couple of other things here that a reset, a degauss button, and a couple of other things. An HV delay, which is important, is getting for sync. You got a menu, you got to get through the menu the same way as before, when you need to make an adjustment, you push the menu button and it pulls up your menu. And then by using the same combination as we have before with those, we can access the sub menu, which we will also do in the next video and fully calibrate this monitor. And then we'll actually get in here and test run some games. But that's just a quick rundown on actually turning this thing on, getting it functioning, and getting to a starting point where now we do need to calibrate it, but we're also going to take apart the shell and get it really nice and clean too, since we know it's in good shape. We want to get it calibrated and clean, and then we can really start getting the heavy testing as far as what goes on. Now after our inspection here, I'm feeling like maybe we're going to just do a, go ahead and do a capacitor replacement on this thing and get it nice and fresh and ready for at least 10 more years of service without any real problems or worries or anything. So the tube looks great on this monitor. This is again, one of the best monitors. Please let me know if you have any questions or if there's anything in here that you feel like we left out that needs to be addressed on the next video. I appreciate your time today. If you really enjoyed this video, please give us a thumbs up. And thanks again for watching Retro Tech. I'm Steve, have a great day.