 FreeSalonEducation.com invites you to join us every Wednesday night at 7 30 p.m. Eastern Standard Time for live and interactive classes from your favorite FreeSalonEducation educators. So grab a mannequin, get set up, and make sure to share your results using the hashtag FreeSalonEducation. FSE live starts now. Welcome to our Wednesday night online live class or you know if you're watching it on like a Saturday afternoon then happy Saturday afternoon. For all of those of you that are tuned in we got Christina manning our chat room box thing so if you have any questions as we go please let us know. My name is Brian Hare from FreeSalonEducation.com and since I'm doing the class tonight Matt said I can call the class whatever I want and since it's Wednesday I've decided that we're calling it hump day hair party because we're just hanging out having some fun doing some hair and I've been really racking my brain for the past couple days about the best way to do this in a timely manner and still do color for you guys that you can use and do all that great stuff so I think we got it worked out pretty well. I had my lovely model Rachel come in earlier and I did her hair she's in the back getting shampooed right now Matt and then he's gonna get her nice and finished so that I have a really nice after for you and I'm gonna bring out a mannequin to show you literally exactly what I did on her the haircut's pretty similar I mean it's not a completely cut mannequin but it's the similar it's close enough you'll get the idea. My big thing that I wanted to do tonight of course I wanted to do some balayage but I didn't want to just do like another balayage like you've seen a hundred times over or maybe you've done a hundred times over because I feel like I'm seeing a lot more people play with balayage which is great but I'm seeing people doing using balayage but creating more of an all over color rather than just a highlighted effect and what I mean is when you foil somebody say you just do a half a head of foils you've still got their color as your primary color it's just now highlighted it's accented it's you've created dimension so I wanted to do that as well with balayage so I left plenty of her hair out and I'm just accenting it through the layers with what I created also the other thing that I wanted to do is absolutely freezing outside so I wanted to warm things up a little bit I feel like in the industry right now it's all about freezing cold colors I've been looking at them for months which is great I love those nice icy Platinum's and the the chilly blues and purples and all that stuff but Rachel came in for a haircut with me last week and she has this gorgeous fiery red hair and I said you know what let's do that let's balayage that and work off of that because redheads need to have fun too and ashy I see tones don't always look best on red hair so I decided excuse me all right we're good that's what happens when you go live I wanted to work with like nice pretty golds and really just amp up her color and give her a really nice just accent so getting started lovely mannequin here I've got her sectioned off I've said this before in our videos but I'm gonna pretend as though you've never seen one of our videos ever before this is our first time meeting it's nice to meet you so for balayage you are gonna want them to come in I tell them just I need your hair to be done the way that you do it every single day I'm not looking for you to get a really fancy blowout or iron your hair to death nothing crazy like that just how they're normally gonna wear it because you're creating something that's gonna look best based off of how they actually look so I just tell them try not to have it in like I just washed my kitchen floor not on top of their head and you should be fine so I've got her going off for her natural part and then just to behind the ears just like you do you know with your typical hair cutting sections all that stuff I do have the back instead of quadrants it's all one in the back so you can see that there that's how we're gonna work off of that so we're gonna start in the back all right got myself all set up ready to go for you guys I know people are gonna want to ask so I'm just gonna tell you before anybody even asked the lightener that I'm using is sunlights from Candy Shaw we got the Bali box in which I love because it comes with your nifty paddle the great brush that the consistency of the brush works beautifully with the consistency of the product so using it all together it just really helps it even comes with its own special perforated saran wrap excuse me so that we can just stick that saran wrap right in there and then just keep moving while keeping the sections all separated from each other all right so I've got the back of her head make sure that we can see you see that a little bit from working right here oh we're going this way carts in the way you like that look at that Christine is a pro at this what would I do without you all right so like I said I want this to just be a highlight I don't want to completely do a huge color shift here so that's why we're working with this all is just one great big back so I'm gonna take a triangular section coming off of this line that I've created with my sectioning and then right about the center because around that's about where the hair is gonna split so I'm gonna dip down and then come back up it doesn't have to be an exact triangle just something with a little bit of a scoop to it I hope I think you can see that okay yeah you didn't say little dip dip boom little pyramid so then I have to think about how light and heavy I want this section to be I'm gonna be holding this section nice and taut with my hand and then however high up I hold it from where my fingers are is where the blonde is gonna come together so if you want a much heavier highlight in there you're gonna hold it a little closer to the head because these two lines that I'm gonna create will come together much faster if you want something that's just gonna flow and be a little bit more natural and a little bit less intense of a balayage then we're gonna hold it out a little bit further towards the end for this look I held her hair about mid shaft maybe just just shy of mid shaft so I've got my little paddle here I'm using sunlights and both on the mannequin here and on our lovely model I did use 40 volume because the the clay base of the sunlight lightener gives a really great stick without allowing it to be too harsh and gross so I really enjoy 40 because it's it gives me the lift that I need and having something that's sitting out without going overboard alright so plenty of product on the side of your brush hold that we'll do it like that that good you want me to turn so see I'm holding this straight out from the head the top part of the head the top of my little pyramid straight out from the head and then about halfway up where we're gonna start you're just gonna start sweeping balayage is French for sweeping by the way so just keep that in mind it'll help so I'm gonna sweep down with my brush as I move up towards the head sometimes when you're doing this I mean a lot of times if guests you're gonna want to get that as close to the head as possible because they don't want too many roots I with both Rachel and the mannequin here didn't go quite to the root because I wanted it to already have a little bit of a grown-in feel Rachel's never colored her hair before I think she situated Demi in her hair like years ago so I didn't really want to throw her into the deep end of crazy hair color so I wanted to give her something it was gonna be a little more organic a little more natural and it was gonna flow nicely so as you can see I'm just painting these edges and then as they come together that's where that blonde is gonna now converge and run through the ends of the hair so I keep going I grab it with my brush lay it into the paddle and then just paint over the end one of the really beneficial things about holding that hair straight out from the head you see as I let it go the product that's on the hair makes it buckle a little bit so it doesn't press too firmly against the hair below it which is what's going to ensure that you don't get bleed marks or anything like that that you're not really looking for so coming over here to this side exact same thing we're gonna hold this hair straight out mid shaft sweeping down while moving towards the head that's the best here's me dying over here so he brings me what it oh alright so Matt does not get credit for that thank you Christina for helping me not die so the first couple times that you do this just like anything else in hair expect to be a little bit slower I mean if this isn't something that you've done before it is an entirely new way of approaching hair you know it's a lot more freeform it's not as it's not it's not as precise as say doing foil work or you know something that really is based off of make sure that you get this exactly where you want it to be this is much more artistic it's much more loose and organic of a finished result me I love that which is possibly why I do love Baleage so much so I'm just enjoying the fact that it feels artistic again I'm going in there and I'm creating something that's just gonna sit so naturally in her hair that it's just it it looks great fantastic so you see what I did here with the saran wrap I brought it up beyond where it's gonna live and then I just rolled it a little bit right as I placed it at my section what that's gonna do is it's gonna offer me a little bit of cushion so that when I put this next hair down just like we're creating that buckle by holding the hair straight out it's also going to help just give a little bit of added insurance so that the hair is not pressing and when that becomes really important is when you try to Baleage hair that's really really fine another thing that I want you to notice the sectioning that we're doing I'm sort of working off the round of the head here it's not straight across as you know a lot of times when you're doing hair cutting or even just in most things you're coming straight across with the head here I'm more rocking around the round of the head because I want this to be as diffused and natural as possible one of the main great things about Baleage is when you look at it if it's done well you don't look at it and say okay there's a highlight there's a highlight there's a highlight it's really just more like oh there's a nice general area of lightness that just looks natural and organic so having that off the round of the head and then doing these sections the way we're doing them it's gonna allow that to just spread and just add that that glimmer of blonde throughout or whatever color you choose to do all right so I have this next section here actually you know what we can thicken this up a little bit because I'm trying to highlight not do a drastic color change I'm still gonna work off of because she's got a natural split right here you want to work off of anything like that if you try to fight it then it's just it's not gonna work and it's not gonna sit right this is what I'm talking about working off of their hair to create the most natural look you can so I've got this little cowlicky area over here this is my full section I'm gonna go in with my brush pointy end of the Bali box brush and then get that scoop out I need some water I'm gonna die hold on Amy Barry said best night ever glass of wine and watching Brian do color oh my god I want a glass so I'm with you Amy Barry you're the best glass of red wine at this point whatever I'll take it I'm not picky I mean well I almost just dipped the microphone in the water when I went to go take a sip that would have been hilarious you'd get to actually watch Matt kill me on live live internet alright so take your point we're gonna come down and just scoop some out the size of your scoop just depends on how much hair you want to leave out I want to make sure that there's plenty of this hair being left out because all of this isn't gonna get lightened this is everything that's just gonna hang so that this highlight just dances in between her natural hair make sure there's plenty on the paddle on the palette if you will coming in starting at the mid shaft sweeping down again sweeping down one thing you really want to make sure you're careful of and mannequins are always great for this because their hair is just always terrible by comparison to a human if you're sweeping and you're not sweeping deep enough if you move up to do the next section and hair comes with you like I'm trying to grab some so you can see but if you come and you go to move up without smoothing that hair out then you're gonna start to tease the hair and it's gonna make a big old mess you're gonna start slinging lightning everywhere so just make sure that your strokes are long enough to make sure that that section is nice and smoothed out because this is all the reason you're pulling it tight the reason you're holding it up you want this to be very smooth you don't want new rough spots or hot spots or whatever you want to call them so then we move over no it works like that you can see I like that I'll move myself coming in scoop out my highlight oh yeah that's money right there mid shaft so it's funny like I said I'm gonna talk to you as though you've never seen one of our videos ever before something that I do talk about in our videos that I think plays a very prevalent role in understanding the whole where these lines come together it's called force perspective and I say it a lot and I've gotten called out in the comments sections of our videos before so that person is watching me your YouTube now because I'm about to talk about force perspective again force perspective is something that they use in all different kinds of art whether it's architecture or actual paintings drawings whatever and it's basically just a way of creating something three-dimensional on a two-dimensional plane one of the greatest alliterations that I ever use for it is the way they draw a hallway when you look at a drawing of a hallway and how all the lines come together at the end of the hallway even though they stop and your eye just creates that thing that's how they create depth that's what we're doing with the sectioning of this highlight so to show you what I'm talking about I've got this picture of this this is like my hallway right here because a lot of times people get confused about well how far do you draw the line before you just paint the ends you don't ever just paint the ends they paint themselves by allowing by being consistent with those lines and letting them run all the way through so I'm creating my line on the right side bring it close to the scalp but for this sake I'm not going all the way I'm getting that foundation in there now here is where you need to be consistent make sure that your lines don't just get fat for the sake of getting fat you want them to actually accent and highlight this hair I'm gonna hold it down just a little bit so the camera can see a little better which one I'm talking about they go to Matt's camera maybe you can see it a little alright yeah so you can see here I've got my two lines and then I just allow it to come together and that's from it's from that point on that the ends get painted so just get out of your head ever that you have to saturate the ends because honestly they'll just do it on their own and if you let them do it on their own is how it's going to be more natural boom back of the head done I have a question I would love a question from Renee she's saying I'm just a student and we haven't talked much about Balayage so is it best to start in the crown area or is it just preference for the stylist and this type of Balayage fair enough I when you're first starting out understand that it's going to take you some time so you're going to need to mix up different developers once you get the hang of it you can roll through this quickly enough that you can start anywhere because if you're doing a full head you're always going to want to work from the bottom up so no matter whether it's a full head half a head wherever you're going excuse me you're going to need to work from the bottom up because as you can see once we start to lay this down I need to kind of leave that where it is I can't really go back in there and disturb this too much more it needs to just sit there so we're starting at the bottom and I start in the back because I I know that I'm not doing as many sections there so if it's the first time you're doing it maybe use a level lower developer back here because it's going to sit a few minutes longer by the time you get up here and work through your front two sections side note on your front two sections because there's more hair on it always start on the heavier side of the part other other note I'm getting back to your question too I'm going to talk about that some more but as I was doing Rachel's hair I thought about it I know she pulls her hair up a lot and I still wanted her to look natural so when I did this scoop at the first section I left out that very bottom almost like sideburn section because I still want her to be natural as it gets pulled back I didn't want her to be a redhead when it's down and a blonde when it goes back or anything like that if you are trying to do a major color shift obviously that's when you would do this because think about it as that hair goes back into a ponytail that's what you see turn a little bit like that all right so yes I start back here in the crown because technically I was just doing a half a head because I'm just highlighting her so I started back here right where the head starts to round off because if you're creating a natural look think about that's that the sun's going to hit the sun's going to hit all this stuff that's on top so as that head rounds off everything beneath that parietal ridge doesn't see the sun as much so it's a very natural place to start when you're doing body ash there I got my side section pulled straight out I hope that answered enough of your questions please comment again if it didn't if you want any more clarification by all means otherwise I'll just listen to myself talk forever I feel bad this paddles in the way yeah so another camera angle you want me oh look at that fancy I like that one all right whenever I'm doing Bali Ajay always make sure that those front few sections oh we're sitting under very hot lights and this stuff is not meant to be put under heat and I can see that so I always make sure that my front few sections around the face get nice and close to the face I think you can see that here they turn the mannequin for you I have the ability so you can see I've got that going nice and close to her face because again we're keeping this natural and that's what's also going to get light if you need a point of reference for how natural you want this to look I always reference a little girl little girls that spend lots of time out in the Sun they get that naturally lightened effect around their face anyway and it just looks gorgeous so you'll notice this back section I didn't come all the way to the root because again I want this to be a lived-in natural soft effect and again the Sun isn't really hitting so much right behind her ear for any reason but as this hair gets brought back you will see you know that little dark pocket is really going to help that highlight pop that was something I I picked up years ago you've got somebody who's like super duper crazy ultra blonde you've processed them you've lightened them within an inch of their life and they still come in and complain about wanting to be lighter the answer is not to find a way to bleach them more the answer is to start creating dimension by putting dark in their hair I know it sounds crazy but this is one of my favorite ways to do that because I've got people that used to get super mega highlighted and still would come in and say I feel like I just want to be blonder and you're like how I've bleached you to death this has become a really great alternative because it allows their base color whether it's natural or artificial it allows their base color to become a low light without them ever even realizing it I personally am not a huge fan of low lighting because I feel like every time I put dark into someone's hair eventually that's going to be a problem for me when I go to lighten that section of hair down the road so I try to use their natural base as their low light as often as possible and Baleage has been a really great way to do that because as you can see we're leaving so much of this out couple of questions to Brian when you're done that's awesome I'll never stop talking you got to shut me up all right Amy Barry do you always have to take a large section or could you just do a single strand if that makes sense it does I've seen lots of people that come and do you know smaller sections I got to say and I used to do that when I first started with Baleage I did a similar section to this but I took smaller little V sections thinner and I would just do my nice little line through you know I played with the paint sticks from Home Depot I tried everything and honestly it was when Candy Shaw came out with this lightener that really changed things for me because I remember when I got this and I started playing with it I was like all right I dig it I'm into it and then when I watched the DVD that comes at the Bali box I almost had a heart attack because she was sitting there painting these huge fat sections onto the hair and I was like oh my god how is that not like the grossest drapey is weirdness ever but it's because it's got that clay base that clay base grabs onto the hair and naturally diffuses itself so that's why you can get away with doing much much fatter sections with this particular lightener also probably time-wise to exactly and because you can just kind of paint paint go because I'm talking obviously I'm slowing myself up considerably but Rachel I time myself I did Rachel's half-ahead of Balayage and like I think 19 minutes she has a lot of hair I mean yeah her pony tail is like the size of my thigh which isn't saying that much but still so the next question is so do you only need to color the outside of the sections and not try to make small highlights in between which is kind of like it's similar you can you know it that all the width of your section here can you see that okay or do you want me to tip it all of the sections that I've done all the the sizes of these triangles I'm leaving it wider because they want it to be a highlight like I said if you want a much heavier highlighted effect if you want more of a color shift then by all means split this in half and do too much smaller triangles do the triangles on the outside of this section as well as this section because the more hair that you put lightener on the lighter they're gonna be and I know that sounds like such a duh thing to say hold on sorry I'm getting over a cold is what this is all about a great way to think about it is when you're highlighting somebody's hair whether you're foiling Balayage I don't care what you're doing when you're lightening somebody's hair if you highlight over 50% of the hair then you've given them a new color basically they've got a new color whereas if you highlight less than 50% of the hair then you're just adding dimension to their natural base color so think of it that way yeah so a wider section is gonna be me adding dimension to her base rather than me making everything look so much lighter all right and another question can you use foils if you don't have saran wrap and second can you put a client under the dryer to speed up the process honestly alright so first part foils yes you can put foils in between I really like the saran wrap just because foils are for incubation where saran wrap is more just for separation like you use foils when you want to heat up the lightener and speed it up that's why when these companies say this is a Balayage lightener or it's just a regular lightener like this particular sunlights ironically enough being called sunlights it doesn't take real well to being heated up like right now like we've got these crazy hot lights on and I can tell a difference in the consistency of the light like it's getting wetter and mushier and in the past this and a lot of your Balayage bleaches are clay base and I've noticed when you try to heat them up to speed things up it can make the lightener a little bit runnier which is going to lend itself more to accidental bleed marks sending the lightener where you don't want it to go so if you have to use foil in between just make sure you don't press real hard because that's the other thing like this is sticking but because saran wrap is so flimsy it's not smooshing like foil might be able to do so I mean if you say that kind of almost defeats the purpose of this look kind of you're not trying to lift them so much that you have to go in in tone right now because that's one thing with Balayage is I when people ask me who do I Balayage on who do I who can I change over to this the number one thing that I say if your guest is somebody that you and I'm trying to move so you can see a little better if your guest is somebody that you put all these foils in her hair and she has to sit for super long and you have to put those foils under a dryer and you're still like just barely getting to the blonde that she wants they're probably not going to be your best candidate for Balayage because if you want to get this done in just one sitting this is essentially sitting out in open air and we all know if you're not incubating something with foil sitting in open air it's just not going to get as bright now back to your sectioning here and where you're placing so now I'm up on her part my out of my own way here try my camera see that guy a little bit I'm up on her part and I always make sure that this hair on either side of the part is always nice and highlighted because I want to make sure that that's the piece that's around the face so it looks nice and bright and light and delicious and wonderful I totally forgot what it was like to have Matt assist you because he's worked so many hair shows so he knows how to do like a hair show time to blow dry so thank you for rushing now you just get to hang out oh you're the best man you guys can't hear him but he's flattering me and giving me lots of money alright so last section again it's a mannequin so if I'm not worried about using the same lightening so I'm not going to go mix up more but because this is a smaller section you're going to rock it through this a lot faster than all the rest of the head that you've done so you may want to up your developer for this last little bit and then just like I had showed you in the back that we were working off the round of the head as you come up to the front here you're going to work on a little bit more of a diagonal back sectioning because again diagonal is going to help to diffuse it and then I like to work on the diagonal back because then as the hair comes back into a ponytail it diffuses itself even more by going the opposite direction of how it was painted on because let's be honest 99 and a half percent of your guests are putting their hair in a ponytail it's I mean I put my hair in a ponytail for Christ's sakes like everyone does it the other side what was that section was that a diet I don't know if you had yeah I didn't say every the front two sections are how are doing diagonal back at a little bit of a slant or slope how to come out Matt did you love it did I let it lift enough okay good can you see it because it's the worst I'm gonna be like you guys wait you see this amazing highlight it's just camouflage couple other questions bring it what developer are you using for the back and then same for the front I think you just touched on that but well because like I said because this is a mannequin I it's I'm just doing the same like I mixed the same and I'm just using 40 because I'm so used to using 40 with balayage because like I had just mentioned since you're not using foils to incubate your lightener that's when you're gonna need to go back to your like beauty school 101 using a specific lightener to get a specific result so if you want to get as much lift as you possibly can that's when you're gonna break out that 40 volume I know for a lot of years you know you get a little nervous when it comes to 40 volume with lightener maybe not all of you I certainly don't which is why I burnt off my hair all the time that was from Kirsten and then Amy Berry again has a question bring it girl drink that wine give me your questions with it being in open air how many levels of lift do you get with the sunlight with 40 volume that's I mean you can expect up to three or four again I'm not gonna sit here make any kind of guarantees because the hair is virgin you're gonna get obviously more lift than if they have it colored same thing for if they have finer hair versus coarse hair that you know it's it's one of those things that's we have to have a very honest conversation with them I love doing balayage but that's when I sometimes you have to get a little more stern with them when you're getting the history of their hair you know they can say oh no you know I've never colored it and that's when I remind them your hair is down to your waist this hair is nine years old you mean to tell me in the last decade you haven't colored your hair oh no well yeah I did it like six months ago okay but that's that's a horse of a different color so you really got to find all those things out because maybe some guests you could get away with only using a 20 or a 30 volume developer but you know there are others depending upon what's in their hair and what what you're looking for you're gonna have to go with something a little bit higher and brighter so this last section again not doing everything make sure you leave plenty out because I'm just highlighting her color I'm not turning her into a crazy bleach blonde today I'm in here sweeping down boom son drop the mic no Matt would kill me can I do that do you think it's cushioned enough Matt said yes all right and then she sits you can have some fun I usually like to turn their saran wrap into a little plastic bob because then they think it's cute and it's funny and then they love me for it so have fun with them do we have any questions while I drink water to keep from dying right now um can you do more videos on getting a better understanding of color because I'm in hair school and I just don't get the basics of color all right that's actually a really fabulous segue because I did want to talk before I bring out our lovely model and show it off like I said at the beginning of this video I wanted this to be I wanted to do something a little different than what's going on right now so much in the industry and on Instagram and all that stuff I wanted to play with warm colors and it's it gets a little tricky to try to give you exact on color because every color line is going to be tweaked a little bit different so I'm going to try to keep it as like hair color 101 you know you've got your primary colors your red yellow blue when I talk about warm colors I'm talking about reds oranges and yellows when I saw excuse me her gorgeous red hair I really wanted to accent that and I wanted to accent that with nice rich golds I said I wanted to keep her natural so I wasn't looking to make her bleach blonde highlights I wanted something that maybe when people look at her they don't go oh wow you got highlights it's more like but there's something different you look great so I knew that to create golds I needed to look at my particular color line that I wanted to use and look at their color map every color line that you have in front of you I don't care where you are what color you use every company gives you a map and it's generally a color wheel and then it shows you on the color wheel where each of their colors live so if you look at that reference that always I don't care if you're in beauty school or if you've been doing hair for 50 years everyone needs to reference that as just a little bit of a refresher every now and then so I looked at my color map and I figured okay I want gold she's lifted to about here so this is what I should do I found a really great gold toner I added lots of yellow intensifiers to it because I knew that her highlight wasn't super super bright but I just wanted to add that extra love and that warmth to it because warm colors reflect light so they look brighter ashy colors or cool colors I should say are better cool colors which are the other side of the color wheel your blues purples greens they absorb light so had I decided to give her cool highlights say I lifted her to a level nine if I chose to keep that warm those warm colors are going to reflect light and look nice and bright it's going to look like a nice bright level nine had I chose to make it a platinum or an ash or a cool color it would absorb light therefore even though it's the same level look a little bit darker I hope that's not too much I think that should help out a little bit I do have two more questions and it might it might touch on your finishing but in case you touch on whatever it wants in case that you have to tone do you think it's better to do on dry hair or in the bowl and also how do you retouch the color okay so I don't know if you wanted to bring no it's fine as far as toning goes it's just going to be it's again going to depend on your color line and depend what you're looking for I know most colors that I've played with if you do choose to tone on wet hair it will not be as long lasting of a result and it's usually not going to be as intense of a result but it will still get the job done a lot of times you we don't a lot time for drying the hair and people don't want to pay for an extra blow dry before you tone so I just sort of tend to tweak exactly which toner I use or which developer I use for that toner to make sure that I can do it on wet hair our lovely model she was toned on wet hair I did it myself and it worked out okay so there you go as far as retouching goes what's cool about that is it's actually up to you you can either really test yourself on your consistency and go through and try to section it out the same and pull out the same everything and literally just find those triangles that you've done before which I've done totally possible it's about being consistent pull out those triangles and then just retouch bring it from the root down to where your previous highlight was what's cool about having that natural diffusion that you get from the clay base it's not a real hard start line so it's not a scenario where a little bit of overlap is going to make it snap you know it's it's a gentle enough lightener that I'm using so that a little overlap is just going to make sure that it marries together and it looks great that's one option another option if you're trying to create even more dimension than you did the first time you did this as you pull out those sections make sure you don't follow the lines that you did before you know maybe go in and put your lines just off of where they were before so that there's a little bit of root left from the highlight you did six weeks ago and now this new highlight goes all the way to the root so it just adds a whole new level of this hair was lightened twice this hair was lightened once this hair wasn't lightened at all and it's just it's really just understanding and having that conversation with your guests about what kind of end result you're looking for and candy martin how do you know if a client would look better with cool tones or warm tones um it's generally you're just going to want to look at them you know are they the pinkier skin or the tanner skin that kind of stuff what is their natural I don't necessarily go off of I try to keep it off of what their natural hair color looks like honestly I feel like I'm one of few hairdressers out there that loves warm tones so I try to push for that as often as possible anyway um it's really going to be again that discussion about how naturally are we trying to create a look because cooler tones while they can be pretty and fun are not not as natural looking you know you're you're going to be pretty hard pressed to find someone that naturally grows bluish hair or purple hair whereas finding golder tones orangeier tones much more natural so that might play into what decision you decide to make you know looking you know eye color skin color all that fun stuff which is going to marry together a nice look you know do they have more tanner skin I think looks better with ashier tones just because it you know their tan looks pretty unnatural anyway so you might as well drive it home with a nice platinum blonde um yeah I think that helps hope that helps ready yeah all right Matt said I'm done so I'm just kidding there is just one more what happens when they decide to stop doing balayage does it grow out nicely oh my god that's like the best part of yeah that's the main purpose for balayage is because it's such a natural look to be completely honest it doesn't ever really grow out it will just naturally what does grow out I can't really say that but it grows out so nice and natural that it's not even noticed because it gives them just that that natural dimensional look to start off with so it really helps to make sure that as it grows it's graceful it's pretty balayage will eventually just sort of grow into an ombre it's it's really cool so for the people that maybe are looking to stretch out those appointments they can't make it every five weeks you know they have to stretch to maybe six seven whatever balayage might be a really good alternative for them because it's going to allow that that more graceful you know I tell my guests we redo balayage when we want to not because oh my god my hair looks terrible I have to get it done so I hope that helps all right so let's get Rachel out here I hope with these lights we can see lots of amazingness I don't know where to put this ever nothing fair enough hi all right so let's get you right here all right so we pull this back oh cool all right actually turn around and lean your head back so I want you to see what's going to be the best light for this which do we like the matte camera yeah so just yeah kind of wiggle as I'm moving you know like that it's difficult because I can't tell where the camera is I'm like I'm just watching the screen here all right so you see as I run this hair back you see exactly what I'm talking about as far as these highlights just naturally living in the haircut because I pulled each of those sections out it's automatically customized to what her haircut is I wasn't looking to create something crazy I just wanted to give her really pretty gold dimension to this hair so you see we went in we used those nice yellow tones the orange tones to really play off of her beautiful natural red and it works out because I use the curve of the head there's no exact stop line in the back of her haircut it just sort of diffuses itself out and then goes away to a more natural with just her natural color coming from underneath so as you let's see yeah perfect where's that camera again keep going the matte cam oh there it is all right the light hitting that okay yeah all right so as you see when I pull her hair back she still has her natural color she doesn't look it's not some alien color that she's not used to but because we did it on that diagonal section it diffuses itself so that there's still the highlight in there but it's not hard angry stripes like you sometimes see with foil work I'm trying to rake oh there you go that's a nice little little accent shot your fabulous model you're doing a wonderful job you just keep doing absolutely nothing and you'll be perfect so that's pretty much it let's get this back shot now lean your head back for me and I just want you to see like this was the benefit of not going all the way to the root with all the highlights is that now I don't have to worry about some crazy grow out because like I said when you look at her hair there's nowhere that you look at it and say oh that's the exact start point for highlight it just kind of highlights itself just like the sun did it it's a really nice blowout Matt you should get a job in this trying to remember which way was your part right there okay so Shantel says this is gorge thanks Shantel you're gorge Amy says so pretty Brian me or the model I'm sure she would say both she better mean both awesome all right so hey can you see like this is your first time seeing it some little camera do you like it she like she said beautiful folks she's happy yeah this is she's seeing it after you guys are seeing it so that's like this is real real talk right here so all right thank you guys so much I hope you enjoyed our hump day hair party feel free to shoot us any more questions we got social media at the wazoo so you got free salon education 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