 Hey everybody today, we're gonna take the Ender 3 that's printing right behind me And we're gonna install the th3d easy a bl now Let's look at through the instructions and I had some questions and I thought you know what? It's probably better to go straight to the source. So you know what let's go Guys I don't think this is where I was supposed to go Let's try that again That's better all right, so we're here at th3d studios and this is Tim the owner of th3d And I thought we'd bring him in today to install the easy a bl on my Ender 3 We're gonna get that going my name is Jim and this is Tim and this is the edge of tech So like I said, we're here at th3d studios with Tim and we're gonna start installing the easy a bl on the Ender 3 Tim why do we want to do this? Well, first of all, Creality doesn't understand that bed should be flat on your printers along with other companies I'm not just gonna take it up on Creality But basically what the a bl system does and it's very core functionality is it eliminates the necessary Steps to manually level the bed so you're not screwing around with your your big knobs underneath while it's printing and try to get Everything working it's gonna take a reading of your bed and then use your z-axis motor to compensate for any sort of variations in that Awesome, so there's other automatic by leveling centers out there. Why the easy a bl So obviously I'm a little biased because I I made it and I own the company But the main come the main competitor would be the bl touch which has a mechanical probe That comes down into plays and touches your bed Now the room for user with that is very high Especially since they changed the new one where they're using plastic pins instead of metal And there's been a lot of reports of people breaking those pins and then the sensors junk ours is a lot more robust And it's a contactless sensor. So it's not actually touching your bed It's getting close and the sensor basically emits a field and it monitors that field and it checks to see if something's there Okay, you're bad, and they're very accurate too. So so while we're installing the easy a bl We're gonna go through the process Is there anything that we need to watch anything we need to look for you said it doesn't touch the bed if we change beds Do we need to do this process again now? It depends on the surface in our testing here We've actually found that you don't actually need to recalibrate the sensor some people think you need to do There's a thing called as the offset which tells the printer How far do I need to move down after the sensor triggers to get the nozzle to correct height on the bed? Oh cool, and our firmware has a feature called baby stepping which allows you to adjust that live So while it's printing down So we usually recommend is you tab people run a little skirt around your print like a couple million years away And then you eyeball that and dial in your leveling while it's pretty nice and and just so we're clear We do need to flash the firmware first. We're gonna use the th3d unified firmware the brand new release correct Awesome. Yeah, and we make it really easy You can always get the latest release by going to firmware dot th3d stew calm awesome And that takes you directly to the download page and so to do the firmware We need to get something separate right because there's no bootloader on the on the under three And I think you guys sells it's like an adreno or something like that, right? Yeah, so certain machines don't need it but printers like the under three the under three pro Okay, basically anything that has what's called 1284 p-chip Sure, we have this documented on our site, too Okay, and you can always contact us if you have any questions, right? Hey, I don't know what I have you can share our support email before you purchase and we'll tell you So but all the bootloader does is allow you to load firmware over the USB port Okay, and it's a one-time thing so you hook it up once you connect some wires from your UNO to your printer board And you hook the moon up to the computer and it burns the bootloader and then you can load USB Firmware nice, so we're not gonna do that in this video We're actually gonna have that already done, but I am gonna make another video about that just so you know how to do it But if you do need that he does sell them here at tth 3d. I think they're somewhere in the bins right over here So you can check out Tim's website. He has them on there, and then if you buy it I believe he offers like some support with that, right? Yeah, so that every abl kit comes with one-on-one support through our email system And then also if you do need the bootloader kit, we have that deeply discounted when you purchase it with an abl So if you get one of our easy abl kits on that product page you can get it I think it's like four or five bucks off because the kid is $16 normally, okay, so but we do like doing bundles and I like saving money, so I like trying to save our customers money Nice, I love that so we're gonna get rocket and rolling on the easy abl install But I think we need an easy abl Aaron. Do you got one? Perfect. Let's go do this. All right now that you saw Aaron toss me this easy abl direct wire kit That's we're gonna be using in today's video We also have an oem mount and Tim told me if you order the easy abl kit And you put a note in the order that you need an oem mount. He'll send you one of these for free So don't forget to do that if you need one at home You can actually print this at home. There is an stl file for it as well You can also follow along with the instructions if you go to easy abl guide dot th 3d studio dot com And that's what we're gonna be using to do this video, so let's do it So we went ahead and opened up that package it came with the easy abl sensor in the board It came with the wires here and like I said if you put in the order notes that you need the oem sensor mount They'll send you one of those as well So we already went through the pre-installation checklist. We're good to go and we're gonna start installing All right, so the first thing we're gonna do is Tim is actually gonna start installing the oem mount and we're gonna take out these two screws here We're gonna remove those and then install the mount and he's gonna start doing that And this is m3 Borts right, okay cool So we got m3 bolts and there's two of them now chances are you're gonna need longer bolts because Creality actually ships with different size bolts some are shorter and some are longer So make sure you have extra set of m3 bolts, and I believe these we're gonna use our m3 by 8. Yes perfect So as you saw it was real easy. It's just those two bolts. We take those out your fan housing here We'll come loose with those two bolts We're just gonna go ahead and tighten those back in and it's hard to see but this is the black mount that we're putting on right now So we're gonna go ahead and do that one and the next bolt and we'll be right back so the next thing we want to do is go ahead and take our sensor and Tim said we need to remove the lock nuts, right? Yes Nope, we don't need those okay so then He is currently screwing the nut Back up the side of the easy a bl and he's gonna put it in to the mount that was printed and the goal here is to have this two millimeters higher than your nozzle and He told me that the ender the wrench that comes with the ender three is actually two millimeters so you can lower that down and He can show you there So the idea is to get your nozzle down onto the bed, but not hard so what he just did was he put the sensor in and he put this wrench here and He lowered this down so the nozzle is just touching the bed correct and the sensor is just touching The sitting on the wrench and then he screwed this nut so it just sits on the mount here So everything should be about lined up now So the next thing we're gonna do is go ahead and raise your x-gantry up and use the Use the coupler on the left side of the printer just like Tim is doing there So now what he's doing is he's putting the other nut on through the bottom, but he's holding the top so it's solid And then what I usually do is I hold this bottom nut and turn the sensor Perfect, then you don't need a wrench. So That's awesome. So you just hold the bottom nut there and then turn your sensor in to tighten it down Perfect now does that lower at all if you turn it? It does a little bit, but not enough words gonna affect anything perfect cool Onto the next step. So the next thing we're gonna do is go ahead and Unravel the wire that comes with it and we're gonna run the wire. So working with Tim he really likes to run it up and Attach it around and he's gonna show us properly how to do that without making it too tight down by your sensor So the key the key here is to have a little bit of loop here and secure zip tie or electoral tape or cloth tape Whatever you have to leave a little loop here because then this is not going to be straining on here If you put it like this What's gonna happen is this is going back and forth you can see how this is straining the cable It's gonna really to the wires inside here breaking gotcha So I like to run them like this especially on the Karelia machines. We leave a little loop wire There's plenty of wire on these and then I just take a zip tie and Gently secure it like you're not gonna crank this down So get on here perfect close to the coupler. So this is what Tim was talking about He came up here and made this a loop so it doesn't put a lot of stress on the end and doesn't break these wires So now what he's doing is he's gonna go ahead and attach The wiring around the side here as you see him doing So what we got here is Tim went ahead and used zip ties and they're not real tight I mean they're tight enough to hold everything But not tight enough to pinch these wires and not tight enough to pinch your Bowdoin tube And he zipped it up around the top of the under three wiring and if you have your stock under three in there You still have this wired in if you used our guide to build this your Bowdoin tube is loose You have two options You can couple it back up with the with the zip ties if you want to or you can just zip the wire straight to the Other wire loom. It's totally up to you. And so we got that all in and secure. We're gonna go on to the next step Okay, so what I do on our machines here is we'll take all these cables here and bundle them together So it's all nice and neat if you have the easy-out filament sensor You can also bundle the cable here only about three or four inches For the sensor cable before you feed the filament in but we don't have it on this printer So we're just gonna go ahead and start bundling these and just makes it cleaner And make sure that these wires don't get caught on anything So you so you just wire it all the way down through the wiring that's already there and you just attach it So it's all one nice clean wires Yeah, we have we have about a dozen under threes here that our ABS farm and we have them all built out the same exact way awesome, and He's gonna finish zip tying this and he's gonna go all the way down to the bottom and we'll be right back All right, so the next thing we're gonna do is Tim is actually gonna pre-strip the ends of these wires and he's gonna use the included Side cutters that come with the Creality Ender 3 and he makes it look very easy but Take your time and you can strip them or if you have a wire strippers at home You want to use that and it looks like you're just doing the black and the red wire, right? Yeah, there's two wires inside this one harness perfect And then the next thing we need to do is go ahead and take off the top cover now I have a printed fan cover here, but it's three screws. It's the one there the one on that side and then there's one more in the back and That'll allow you to take the The top cover for the motherboard off and this goes for the under three standard If you're gonna use the under three pro you need to remove this from the bottom so you'll have to turn your printer over and Remove that so you're gonna pull this up And when you do that be careful because your fan is attached just like Tim pulled that out right there And we're gonna go on to the next step So now that you got the fan cover off This is what you see and if you go in here and you carefully move your wires over You'll find this bank right here, and we're actually gonna be using that to install So what you want to do and and Tim is gonna do this in a second is he's gonna actually loosen the first two right here And that's where we're gonna get our power from so we always have power and it comes straight from the board All right, so what we're gonna do now is take the included wires and Push them right through the bottom of the back just like Tim is doing and that'll actually feed the included wires out and through Just like that Then he's gonna go ahead and unscrew those first two terminals So what we're gonna do is go ahead and twist the red wires together, and we're gonna twist the black wires together So they're ready to go and we're gonna put them back in to those first two terminals So how it's gonna go back in is red all the way to the end, and then he's gonna screw that in Once you get him in good there we go, and then black is gonna sit right next to that So there is a wiring diagram on the TH3D site for this and You can check that out if you need to but just remember it goes red first and then black All right So the next thing we need to do is go ahead and remove the z-end stop and you can use the Allen wrench that came with the kit or a three millimeter hex So the next thing Tim is gonna do is go ahead and disconnect the z-end stop After we started doing this we realized that Creality actually shortened their z-end stop cables this this wire right here So we're gonna change it up and we're actually gonna mount the control box right up here That way all we have to do is cut the end here and mount it And then the white wire here can come up where the fan goes and we'll show you that in a little bit And be a lot shorter as well So we got all the wires cabled here and we realized we have to mount the control box here So what Tim's gonna do is go ahead and push the control box around through the side And he's gonna mount it right on the side of that extrusion And we are using the screws that came out of the z-end stop to do that. All right So as you can see Tim mounted the control box actually on the side of the extrusion right here and it mounts really nicely right there And we're gonna go ahead and start wiring it now So the next step is we got to take the top cover off the control box and Tim's gonna work on that now So he's actually gonna cut the end of the connector off of the z-end stop Just I do recommend leaving a little bit here. So if you ever need to reconnect this you can So I just cut it right about here So leave about an inch. Yeah, so you can still use this if you need to For some reason you gotta send this in for warranty or you know something else down the road So now you're just splitting the wires and you're gonna go ahead and strip them now when I'm using these I'm barely putting any pressure on this I'm just getting it to a point where it kind of holds on and then I pull So if you over actual wire strippers, you can do that But because we want to make sure you guys can do this with the tools you have We're doing it this way now because these are really thin wires Priely uses. I like to twist these And I'm stripping them about twice as long as I need because what we're gonna do is once it's twisted We're gonna fold it like that. So our terminals have a little more meat to bite on to All right. So the next step what we want to do is go ahead and loosen up the rear Terminals there just like that And we're gonna go ahead and insert the wires into the two terminals in the back Now does it matter which way they go in it does but you're not gonna know which way they need to be in until you Do the test later on? Okay, so you might have to switch these two depending on your luck of the draw You got a 50-50 shot of if this is gonna be correctly wired this side will not damage anything if it's wired in reverse Perfect, so it won't damage it if it's in reverse and so we're gonna go ahead and get those two wires pushed in and tightened Would be good. So the next thing Tim's gonna do is go ahead and take that Existing cable that comes out of the board and push it back in the channel where it goes and That should be good and the next thing is the power wire Yeah, so we don't obviously need this much wire. We include this length for depending on what printer you're doing where it's going Etc. So I'm gonna go ahead and just you know kind of eyeball this and see how much wire I need and then cut it And then we're gonna strip it just like we did on the last time So again light force, so you're not gonna crimp down on this if you're using these You're just gonna put life force on it and pull and as you can see sometimes you don't get at the first try So just do it again and it'll come off and then repeat for these wires too And we're gonna do the same thing with these power wires as we did the end stop cables Just because it's easier to insert these will actually bite into the terminals But I found that people say it's easier to do this and the screw tumors are big enough to fit this stuff doubled up in it So if you want to have an easier time, you can do the strip it longer than you need This is the total length you need to go into the terminal But if you strip it twice as long you have this nice rounded edge to get into the terminal instead of fighting with all The little strands of wires trying to get into it If you look on the board here, which you can't see from the camera angle But the one closest to me which is the top of the board It says th3 easy abl at the bottom of the board This top screw terminal is your positive, which is red and then the bottom one is negative So we're going to insert those just like we did the other one And I usually give a little tug make sure they're in there Now that we got everything wired. He did give it a little tug to make sure they're both tight And we're gonna go ahead and what cleaned it up Okay, so while we're cleaning up the wires now at this point Tim is actually is gonna show us a couple different ways to do it We can actually zip tie the cables in the back and zip time in the back or what he prefers to do is Loop them and then push them down through the bottom where the other cables go into the board and they'll actually come up and You can actually pull them right up through the board there And you can hide them inside when we put the cover on that way all that wiring is hidden And when you put the cover on you won't see much of that wiring at all So as you can see Tim actually pushed the wiring down in and it's staying in there just like that And it's all nice and clean that way. It's not hanging out the back You don't have to worry about zip ties and the cover will go on so you don't even have to see it Okay So the next thing we're gonna do is go ahead and clean up these wires and Tim's gonna walk us through that real quick So basically you got your power wires here and there's the end stop I'm going to go ahead and just kind of loop this around you want to kind of follow the natural bend of the cable So you're gonna kind of go up through the extrusion and then you're gonna bend it down where the z-end stop came out before Right because we got this cut out so we have because so we have the groove in that where the z-end stop came up And that'll actually go nicely in there correct So I'm gonna reconnect the fan here to the little fan header Which is a pain to get to you always because there's always other wires in the way But we'll get it we'll get it there we go and I'm gonna go ahead and I like to check make sure that there's no wires Hitting this fan because otherwise you'll get a terrible noise when you turn on the printer So make sure all the wires that we ran out here go into this little channel on the cutout perfect And then we're gonna go ahead and screw this in and come back and we're gonna put yeah We're gonna take the fan cover. I had the two screws here and the one in the back We're gonna put that together and we'll be right back. So while we're putting the fan on We had a cat come up and help flopped right over on the table with us All right, so what you see now is it's a little bit loose We had to loosen this up to slide everything this way a little bit So the cover will go on in a little bit, but we did not put the cover on yet because now we need to test the sensor So we're gonna go ahead and plug the machine in and we'll be right back So now that we got the machine plugged in we went ahead and raised our x-gantry almost all the way up so what we want to do now is turn on the machine just like that and No magic smoke, so that's good And then we're gonna go ahead and do an auto home, right? So we're gonna go ahead and hit the button go to prepare hit the button and go to auto home And hit the button again and a way to see if we are wired correctly In the actual control board for the easy ABL is to go ahead and try to touch it while it's coming down As you can see it's not stopping which means we're not wired correctly So those two little wires that we put in before need to be switched And that's good that we can show you that so we're gonna do that now So as you can see we loosen this up because what we need to do is go ahead and loosen these two screws and pull those wires out So we just need to flip those wires around So what we did was we went ahead and loosen these up and we took the left one and put it in the right And we took the right one and put it in the left that way the wires are gonna be incorrectly now Basically, like I said, we're just switching those wires around inside of the control board where they go in here And that should make our center trigger now now that we have those wires swapped. We're gonna go ahead and turn it on So the machine's on we're gonna go ahead and hit the button Go to prepare hit the button go to auto home and we're gonna do another auto homing just like we did before Except for this time when Tim puts his finger underneath the sensor it should stop just like that Perfect So in the guide it says you can do an m119 command to make that happen The easiest way is to just do an auto home like we did hit the button go to prepare hit the button go to auto home hit the button you'll see those two all home and then What you knew is just as soon as it starts coming down Start touching it and now you know your easy ABL is wired correctly We can go ahead and finish mount on the control box and put everything back together I'm gonna go ahead and shut the printer off at this point Okay, so now we got the control module mounted down like we said here and we slid the Cover back on the top of the control module you took that off earlier and now you can see how everything's run I'll use this so our white cable goes down where the ZN stop used to be right through here The ZN stop comes through the side right there There's just enough gap to make that work and it plugs into here and now It's tested so what we need to do is go ahead and calibrate the sensor Okay, so next thing we want to do is go ahead and turn on the under three and we're going to go ahead and put the bed back on and For your enjoyment you get a half a cat right here So We're gonna go ahead and put our bed back on in my case I have the glass bed with the th3d easy mat So the next thing I'm gonna do is go ahead and heat our bed up to whatever your average print temp is in my case I use about 60 C so we're gonna stop at about 60 so while that's heating up We're gonna go ahead and lower this down to about what five millimeters off the bed roughly Yeah, just before your nozzle touches so as long as your nozzle is not touching you're good And then we're gonna go ahead and heat this bed up with a sensor right here So the next step is the calibrator sensor What that means is setting with distance this triggers that and we want this to trigger before the nozzle It's a bed because I don't want to be putting holes in your beautiful bed mat So I'm gonna raise this up a little bit and I'm gonna slide the wrench that we use to mount the sensor underneath the nozzle now if you don't have a wrench you can always Manually put it down and then tell your Z to move up. So I'm just gonna show you that too. So I'm gonna take this back out and now My nose is on the bed. So I'm gonna go here go to prepare Move axis Move Z and Then move one millimeter and we're gonna move this up to one Two and now we can calibrate our sensor and all the calibrator means it sounds It's like a scary word, but we're just gonna adjust this little adjustment pot on the top So I'm going to use a little Phillips precision screw This is a 2.5 you can also use a tube But you don't want to use too big because then you're gonna scrape the walls of the the sensor housing here If you notice obviously our sensor mount has some flex to it when you're adjusting this You don't want to put any pressure on it. You want to just basically let the screwdriver sit here and turn it clockwise Until the light turns on and it may take a couple turns Or or even more than a couple it depends but you'll see the light turn on and we will get the light to come on There we go And then we're gonna go back just to make sure we get it perfectly down Then we'll go back till it shuts off and then come back again If you notice it takes a little bit more of a turn to get it to come back on and go off That is completely normal. So when I move my hand away from here You want to see that this light is on at this point now our sensors calibrated and we can verify By going and auto-homing it again, and it should stop before it touches the bed So now that we got the Sensor dialed in and the light came on like you saw we're gonna go ahead and do another auto-home So go to prepare and then go to auto-home like we did before and you should see it crosses And then it should Auto-home just like that Now one of the things we can do too is you want to verify that you actually calibrated correctly and that your printers Mechanically sound as we have a feature in here called the m48 test and you can do this from a G code command But we baked it into the LCD on our version of Marlin So if I go to prepare and scroll down a little further right after home Z you'll see run m48 test So this is going to home all and then take 20 probes and a probe consists of a fast and slow probe and then it's going to spit out what's called the standard deviation So this is going to run and if you just leave the LCD here It will go back to the main screen and it says m48 test running and once it's done doing these tests You will see your m48 result on here and what you want is to have the m48 result under 0.01 and that's good So if you're lower than 0.01 that means your sensors calibrated correctly and your printers mechanically sound meaning your Z Is moving correctly and all this other stuff So we just got a m48 result here of point zero zero two four two seven So this sensor is reading an accuracy level of point zero zero two millimeters Wow, and you want at least point zero one so we're way under we're way under our son on a well-built printer Meaning it's mechanically sound. We have no electrical issues. We've got the mean well on here So I don't expect to have any electrical problems You should see double zeroes in here and these are way more accurate than even the BL touch Like BL touch average is about point zero two point zero three These these consistently beat it out in accuracy all the time awesome So we got a mechanically sound printer that we built using Luke's help gap Yeah, and we have a really awesome easy ABL sensor that we put together courtesy of you guys at TH3D So I think we should do a test print and see if how it goes. Absolutely. Alright, let's do it Okay, so we have the filament loaded and we're gonna go ahead and do a test print And what we're gonna do is take an STL file that is right in the file section of the TH3D firmware package The folder you want to look for it is is bed level STL files and I'll go ahead and put that in the video in a second Okay, so what we did was we went ahead and loaded the SD card We went on to the SD card and we told it to start printing the 200 millimeter test code So what it's gonna do is heat the nozzle up to 230 and heat the bed up to 60 And we're gonna start our test print and we'll be right back as soon as that's heated up Okay, so it got heated up and now we're gonna go ahead and start the process of probing the bed It'll start in the center and then it'll go ahead and do nine points along the whole bed So at this point it did the probe and it went to the back corner here So when it starts moving we want to hit the button two times and you'll see probe Z offset And when it starts going you want to look under the nozzle and start dialing it downwards downward is this way And we know that that probe is two millimeters off the top of the bed So we need to dial this probe Z offset to about What we say there? Oh Too high too high Too low there we go So right now I have it at about 1.4 and you can see we're getting a pretty good line now The offset's gonna vary based on each printer. So yours will not match what he has here, right? So you just want to watch your print as it's going around if it needs to go closer to the bed You can dial it counterclockwise if it needs to go higher from the bed you can dial it clockwise and Just kind of watch for your layer lines You remember that the probe is about two millimeters off the bed in our case We have it at 1.4 millimeters down for the Z offset and we're getting really good lines now So what you want to do then is when you think you're dialed in and good go ahead and click the button Click it again and go to control Click it and scroll down to store settings Hit the button there and you'll hear the little verbal like okay That will not be there if you use the filament sensor, right? Yeah the easy Yeah, so if you use the easy out you won't hear that but in this case we don't have that you're going to hear that verbal Okay, and you know that we're set now at 1.4 on The offset and that's actually looking really good All right, so when it is completely done It'll fill in everything here and it'll fill in the outsides and it'll create all your lines here And you should have a really good First layer it looks pretty good Probably a little close like Tim was saying here during the time lapse But we can adjust that just a little bit with our Z offset like we did before Anything else you want to throw in Tim? Well, and the other thing is too like I was mentioning I could actually forgot because I set up his firmware. I forgot to set the probe Edge in usually on these beds. I probe in a little bit further. So we're probing in 15 millimeters from the sides I usually do about 30 and you can tell like this side You can see they're pretty close in terms of the height and setting the probe edge We give this a little more consistency across the entire bed, but this isn't bad though This this is really good for especially where first go But if you guys do ever have issues like this, you can contact our support We can give you direction on what to change in your firmware. Perfect So that's what it should look like And uh, you know, that's awesome. We're good to go All right So as you saw we just went ahead and we installed the easy abl From th3d and tim did most of the installing so that was pretty awesome And we ran the red atomic Silk filament actually to do our test print down here when we were making sure the z offset was correct Anything else you want to add? Um, that's about it. Just make sure you follow the installation guide This video is going to be awesome because it's specific to the end of three. It's a very popular machine Just make sure to check as uh, jim noticed when we were examining the bed leveling Result He was a little closer on this side because he just moved this and the gantry is a little off But he's going to take care of that so check your gantry Make sure it's level with the printer's frame on either side because the system compensates for bed Tilting warping etc not for your gantry being off. Yep with that being said I'm going to throw the x gantry rework and the bed leveling video in the bottom there The other thing you can also do is buy the th3d Solid mounts and they actually replace the springs here. So you never have to loosen those springs again It just makes it all solid. I did a video on that if you go back into history I'm going to install that on this later. But for now, that's how we do it I think it's time to head back home though. Yeah, I think it's gonna low light. It was like seven seven seven thirty It's late. We've been here. It's it's been a long day, but I'm going to zap myself back home. Here we go Whoa I'm back Well, I tell you what we now have a th3d easy abl on the end of three right here behind me And it was awesome a special thanks goes out to tim and erin of th3d For rocking and rolling and having us come down on easter to film this video It was a lot of fun and we really had a blast I tell you what the best part about this is I don't have to level my bed anymore One thing you do have to remember is that you want to go down below and grab the link for the th3d firmware When you do that, you're going to get a file in there for the starting g code You're going to need to use that g code going forward on all of your files for the end of three that way It probes correctly before each print. You want to make sure you do that Also, don't forget to make your x gantry completely level if you didn't already do that I'll put the video in the description below and make sure that's good You'll want to do that because these printers print so much better when the x gantries are level With that being said, I hope you learned something today and as always keep printing Hey everybody, I want to hear from you in the comments below I want to know what your favorite bed leveling tool is. Is it a bl touch? Is it a th3d easy a bl or maybe something I don't know about maybe you just love the stock springs I don't know. Well, let me know in the comments below because I'd love to see what your favorite tool is If you like the video click the thumbs up and give me a like If you want to see more click that little subscribe button right here And if you want to get notified every time a great video comes out click that little bell I really appreciate you guys watching. Don't forget. 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