 Hi, what's up, you guys? This is your girl, PicPit Trippin and welcome back again to my YouTube channel. So today, our tutorial will be about oversized bomber jacket pattern making. So this is the first tutorial for our Advanced Pattern Making series and finally, we are doing it! Anyways, you guys, get your materials ready and let's get this tutorial started! So these are the materials that you'll be needing for this tutorial. Your flexible ruler, pencils, scissors, tracing wheel, pins, your all-in-one ruler, your sharpie, your exposed metallic zipper for your jacket, your patterned paper, and bodice block without shoulder bust arts. So the first step that we are going to do is we are going to trace your bodices, your front bodice, and your back bodice onto your patterned paper. Make it sure that your underarm side seam on your front and on your back bodice are aligned. Don't forget to mark all of the notches, the important notches, like for example, your waistline, your bustline, and your chestline. It is important that you mark all of these notches because you are going to use this for your sewing and of course for cutting your patterns onto your fabric. Trace everything, trace everything. So after we trace the front and the back bodice, we are going to move on to reshaping your neckline. On the upper right corner of your front bodice, on the neckline, we are going to mark down one inch and we are going to reshape it using your armhole curve. Next, on the underarm side seam on the front and on the back, we are going to mark down one inch and we are going to reshape it all the way to your front and back armhole. Next, get your metallic zipper or your jacket zipper. Make it sure to get the measurement of the zipper. We will depend on the length of the zipper for the length of your jacket. So for example, my measurement is 17.68 and that will be the length of my jacket. Here I am marking the measurement all the way from the neckline going down and mark it, don't forget to mark it, to your hemline. Of course that is also until your back pattern. So let's move on to the top section of your pattern, which is your shoulder length. On each shoulder length of your front and your back pattern, locate the half and mark it. On the half mark of your shoulder length, draw a vertical line going down to your hemline and you should also do this on your back pattern. Next step is we are going to cut this vertical line making two pieces or making two panels for your front bodice and for your back bodice. After cutting all of the panels, make it sure that you label it because you will get confused if you don't. So the next procedure is how we make the bummer jacket over side. So get your two panels and get a piece of paper. The next thing that you will do, you will attach the first panel, whichever panel you like using a masking tape. Attach it all the way down to the hemline. So after you attach the first panel onto the paper, we are going to mark out two inches from the panel. Make it sure that everything is marked out and after that we are going to draw a vertical line. This vertical line is for the other side of your panel. This is where we are going to attach the second panel of your pattern. After drawing the vertical line, we will attach your second panel and there you go. Now you have your oversized pattern. So let's just attach it using your masking tape and draw all of the lines like for example here. I'm drawing the hemline. Since we added two inches on your bodice to make it oversized, your shoulder length measurement changed. So from the tip of your shoulder length and from the tip of your neck, we are going to make a new length. So don't forget to get the measurement of your new shoulder length. So my shoulder length before was 6 1 8 and because I added two inches for oversized, it became 8 1 8. So there you go, record it and later we are going to use it for your back pattern. So the procedure for your back pattern is also the same with your front pattern. Attach your first panel to a piece of paper, mark out two inches from the first panel, draw a vertical line and attach your second panel to it. And then after that, of course, let's reshape your shoulder length and it should also be the same measurement with your front pattern. So the next procedure is mark out three inches from the hemline. I am sorry guys, I lost the file but I'm going to pause the video and I am going to put the measurements and how to draft the lines for your ribbing or for your waistband. First, mark up three inches from the hemline for the front and for the back bodice. After marking the three inches, you are going to draw a horizontal line. This will be for your waistband or for the ribbing. Next step is we are going to decrease your waistband by three inches. So let's mark in three inches from the side seam for both back and front bodice. The reason why we decrease your waistband or your ribbing is because we are going to gather your front and back bodice or your front and back pattern to your waistband. So let's move on by drafting your inset. At the lower right corner of your front pattern, we are going to mark in 3, 4, 8 or 3.5 inches. So this is your inset. So your inset doesn't have the same fabric with your waistband because your waistband is stretchy and your inset has the same fabric with the self or your shelf. So there you go. That's your inset that little square on the lower right corner of your pattern. Make it sure to label it and on the bottom part, you are going to cut this on unfold. Label the front waistband and label it on hold. Label the back waistband and also label it on unfold. Next, cut the back waistband and the front waistband from the pattern. Connect the two waistband together making a one piece waistband for your bomber jacket pattern. Cut the inset from your waistband and later we are going to put the sewing allowances for all of this. Okay, so let's move on to the next procedure. Next, we are going to trap your lining and your facing for your front pattern. On your shoulder length, we are going to mark in 3 inches and this 3 inches will determine your drafting for your facing for the front pattern. Get your curve ruler and we are going to curve all the way down to the hemline. There's no particular calculations for this one. Just make sure that you have a curve ruler and we are going to use the 3 inches mark as a guide to make our facing for our front pattern. So let's move on now to your back facing and your back lining. On your neckline, we will mark down and mark all around 3 inches and this will be the mark for your facing and for your lining. Using your armhole curve, we are going to shape all of the marks and that will be your finished product for your back facing and also for your back lining. So this is your back and front facing and lining. So the next thing that we are going to do, we are going to first get our front pattern and we are going to trace off the front facing and the front lining for our bomber jacket. When putting an allowance to your facing and to your lining, make it sure that you have 4 eighths all around of sewing allowance except for the neckline and for the armhole. For the armhole and for the neckline, you are going to use 3 eighths inches of sewing allowance. So moving on to your back pattern, let's trace off first your back facing and then later we will trace your back lining. As usual, we will use the same sewing allowance for eighths all around except for the armhole and for the neckline. On the neckline and on the armhole, we will use 3 eighths inches for sewing allowance. So on your back lining at the center back, we are going to put an allowance of 4 eighths instead of putting it on unfold. So we are going to make another seam here on this part. I'm sorry you guys, I'm really really sorry. It's a mistake but anyways, we are finished and here you go. These are your back lining and your back facing and your front lining and your front facing. So we're done with all of them and yeah, let's move on and let's go to the next step. Next is your pocket location. So on the angle or on the corner of your underarm side seam and on the waistline, we are going to drop a diagonal line and on the diagonal line on the angle, we are going to mark up 3 4 eighths after marking the 3 4 eighths. We are going to mark in those 6 4 eighths inches. This will be the opening for your pocket on the 6 4 eighths mark or your opening. I am marking down one inch. This is the size of your wealth pocket. I am just going to use this as a guideline for drafting my pockets for my bomber jacket. This will serve as a guideline for me to draft my pocket and I am going to use my curve or my armhole curve and I'm not going to put my pocket not until the inset. I am going to make sure that there's a little bit of space on the inset mark. There's no computations with drafting your pocket but I advise you guys to have your own ruler like this one with the armhole because it helps me a lot to shape my pocket and I just made it sure that it can fit a lot of things inside. So there you go and just curve it all the way down to your hemline or the waistline. Next, trace off your pocket from your pattern using another pattern paper. So let's trace it using your tracing wheel. And then after you trace your pocket, we are going to put 4 eighths allowance on the top and on the bottom and on each side we are going to put 5 eighths inches of allowance. So we are now going to draft our wealth pocket. First, draft a horizontal line and a vertical line. On the horizontal line, we are going to mark down one inch. We are going to mark in 6 4 eighths inches which is the width of your opening for your pocket. And here I am just drafting all of the sewing allowance that I'll be using and this is 5 eighths and 4 eighths on top and another 5 eighths on the other side. And then I am going to draft another 1 inch making your wealth pocket 2 inches in height. But don't worry, we will fold it when we are going to sew your bomber jacket or your pocket for your bomber jacket. Here I am just completing all of the allowance test and there you go, that's your wealth pocket for your bomber jacket. If you haven't watched my wealth pocket tutorial yet, I am going to put the link on top. There you go, you are done with your wealth pocket and your pockets. So let's move on to the next step. Next, we are going to move on to your bomber jacket collar. So the first thing that we are going to do, we are going to trace your front neckline to a piece of paper. Don't forget to put marks on the center front and on the shoulder length of your front pattern. So next, get the measurement of your back neckline. So here I am just using my facing as a reference for the measurement of my back neckline. So after you get the measurements from your back neckline, you can now start drafting your collar. On the mark of the shoulder length, you are going to extend a horizontal line. This horizontal line is for your back neckline. And after that, you are going to extend a vertical line on the shoulder length mark. And from this vertical line on the shoulder length, you are going to mark out your back neckline, which is for me, it's 458. Just mark it out. And after marking it out, you are going to draft or draw a vertical line. Label the back neckline and label the front front neckline. From the back neckline, you are going to mark up to 48 inches. You are going to mark this line, not until the shoulder length. This will be your guideline for your line going to the center front for your collar. There you go. And then just make a line going to the center front. And that is your collar. For the sewing allowance for your collar, you are going to put 4 eighths on the center back, 3 eighths on the neckline, and keep it on unfold on the top part. Next is for the pattern for your zipper fly. Get your front pattern and get your inset. On the bottom part of your inset, mark it. And on your front neckline, mark it as well. This is the length of your zipper, and it also has the same length for your zipper fly. So now we are going to draft a vertical line with the marks that you made from the neckline going to the inset. And from the vertical line, we are going to mark out 2 inches. So after marking the 2 inches out from your vertical line, you are going to draft again another vertical line. And you are going to measure out the same length of the first vertical line, which is 17, 6 eighths. And after that, you are going to mark in 1 eighths on the top of your zipper fly for allowance. So now let's try your zipper on your zipper fly. So this is how it will look like. Your zipper fly will protect you from zipping up and zipping down your zipper. And it's also a good design for your bomber jacket. Next on the angle, you are going to mark in 2 eighths. Using your armhole curve, you are going to curve it. And you're also going to do the same thing on the other side. So the sewing allowance for your zipper fly will be 4 eighths inches. That is all around your zipper fly. And there you go. You're finished with your zipper fly. And let's move on to your next pattern. The next pattern is your back and front yoke. First, connect the two patterns, your back and front patterns, on the shoulder length using your masking tape. Connect it on a piece of paper. And make it sure there's no space in between both shoulder lengths. From your neck base on your shoulder length, on your front pattern, you are going to mark down 2 fourth eighths inches. And on your front shoulder length along your armhole, you are going to mark down 3 fourth eighths inches. After marking the marks on the front neckline and on the front armhole, connect these two marks making a diagonal line and this will be your front yoke. For your back yoke, simply mark down 4 fourth eighths inches from your back neckline. And make it sure that you mark this measurement. And on this mark, you are going to extend a horizontal line going towards your back armhole. And this will be your back yoke. Cut your yoke pattern from your front and back pattern and this is it. Label it on unfold, don't forget. And this will be your yoke for your bomber jacket. Also on your back pattern, you should also put it on unfold. So the next step is we are going to put pleats on your back pattern. So here I am going to mark 2 inches from my center back. And after marking it, I am going to draw a vertical line. And from this new vertical line, I am going to mark in 1 fourth eighths inches. And on this mark, I am going to draw another vertical line. So this line will determine your pleats for your back pattern. So I'm going to cut through this line, but not cutting all the way through your pattern. Next get a piece of paper and put your pattern on top of the paper. And we are going to attach your pattern to the piece of paper using your masking tape. Here I am attaching the first vertical line on the paper. After attaching, you are going to mark out 1 2 eighths from the first vertical line. This 1 2 eighths is the opening for the pleat. After marking out the 1 2 eighths opening for the pleat, you are going to attach the pattern. For the second pleat, you are also going to do the same procedure at the first pleat. So the opening is 1 2 eighths. And then after marking the 1 2 eighths opening, you are going to attach all of the patterns. And there you go. That is your pleating for your back pattern. So this technique is called slash and spread. Next you are just going to true or smooth the lines on your back pattern. And make sure to put notches on your pleats. So don't forget to put notches on your back yoke for the pleat of your back pattern. So from the center back, it's 2 inches and after 2 inches, it's 1 4 eighths. There you go and we can try pleating your pattern to the back yoke. And that's it, you are ready to put all of the sewing allowances for your back pattern and for your front pattern and for your yoke pattern. So as you guys can see, I already finished the sewing allowances for the pattern. So I used 4 eighths or half inch of sewing allowances or seam allowances. So please don't forget to put notches on your pattern so you guys won't get confused while you're sewing all of this once you've cut it from the fabric. Here it is, the inset, your waistband and your front and back pattern and the yoke. Okay, so we're finished with this step and we should move on to the sleeves pattern. So let's move on to your sleeves pattern. So what I have here is an old pattern block but I don't use it anymore because the sleeves cap is not accurate. But I am just tracing everything except for the sleeve cap and I'm marking the center and marking everything except for the sleeve cap because I have a pattern for a sleeve cap that is very accurate for the armhole. If you guys haven't watched my sleeves pattern tutorial yet, I am going to put the link here on top. And I'm also going to notch the center of the sleeve cap and I'm going to draft my new technique for the sleeves pattern. After drafting your sleeves, you will drop down one inch from both of your side seams of the sleeves. And after that, you will reshape it using your armhole curve. So let's move on for your wristband pattern. So on the sleeves hemline, you are going to drop down or mark down three inches. And on the sleeve side seams, you are going to mark in three inches. And after that, complete all of the lines for your wristband. So don't forget the label. The right side is the front and the left side is the back. So you're done with your sleeves pattern and your wristband. So the only thing missing here is sewing allowance. So don't forget on the sleeve cap, you are going to put three-eighths inches of allowance. And all around you are going to put four-eighths inches of allowance. And on your wristband, you are going to put it on fold on the bottom part and four-eighths inches of sewing allowance all around. And also, don't forget that the sleeves is for the self and the lining itself. Yay! We're done! Et voilà! So these are all of the finished pieces that we did today. I know guys, it's overwhelming to see a lot of pieces, but without all of these pieces, you won't be able to construct or to sew your bomber jacket. But anyways, these are everything. These are all of the patterns that we made today. And I am so glad that we have finished every single pattern. Anyways, you guys, if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up. If you are not subscribed yet to my YouTube channel, Brit Bit Trippin, please hit that subscribe button and that bell button as well. And I will see you guys on the next tutorial for bomber jacket sewing. Bye guys, I'll see you guys again.