 CHAPTER IX. A WALK INTO THE COUNTRY, THE PAEA ROA, PREVAILD ON BY THE KINDEST OF THE CHIEFES TO DEFUR OUR DEPARTURE. BREAD FRUIT PLANTS COLLECTED. MOVE THE SHIPS TO TOA ROA, HARBOR. FISHING. In the area of the ship's company desert, in discretion of our people on shore, instances of jealousy, mourning, bold brought to au pares by a prophet, the deserters recovered, Tina proposes to visit England. 1788. December. Wednesday. 17. This morning I took a walk into the country accompanied by Nelson and my old friend Moana. The breadth of the border of lowland before we arrived at the foot of the hills was near three miles. This part of our journey was through a delightful country, well covered with breadfruit and coconut trees, and strewed with houses in which were swarms of children. We then proceeded along a valley, still among houses, with plantations of yams, taro, the cloth plant, and their favorite root, the ava. There were breadfruit trees on the sides of the hills which were dwarfs in comparison of those on the lowland. Our walk was very much interrupted by a river, the course of which was so super-teen that we had to cross it several times, being carried over on men's shoulders. On arriving at Amor A'ai, I saw a number of natives collected, and was informed that the priests were performing their devotions. Sixteen men were sitting on their heels, and the front was a pole covered with a plaited coconut branch, and before each of the men there were a number of small pieces of the same leaf plaited, which they called Ha'a'ire'i, and each had likewise a piece round his wrist. One who appeared to be the chief priest, prayed aloud, and was answered by all the rest together. After a few short sentences and responses, they rose and each carried an A'ire'i, which they placed at the foot of the pole, and returned to prayer. This was repeated until all the Ha'a'ire'i were delivered, and then the ceremony ended. I must not forget to mention that they had placed near the pole an offering of plantains and breadfruit, which they left for the A'atua. They very kindly asked us to partake of a roasted hog that had been prepared for them while they were praying, but as I wished to make the most of the morning before the sun was too high, I declined their offer, and Moana bespoke refreshments to be ready for us when we returned. We continued our walk up the valley, which became very narrow, and advanced a considerable way beyond all the houses and plantations when we were suddenly stopped by a cascade that fell into the river from a height of above 200 feet. The fall at this time was not great, but in heavy rains must be considerable. The natives look upon this as the most wonderful sight in the island. The fall of water is the least curious part, the cliff over which it comes is perpendicular, forming an appearance as if supported by square pillars of stone, and with a regularity that is surprising. Underneath is a pool eight or nine feet deep into which the water falls, and in this place all the natives make a point of bathing once in their lives, probably from some religious idea. The hills here approach each other within a few yards and are well covered with wood. As the road appeared difficult, I did not care to proceed towards the mountain. I cannot with certainty say how far this curious precipice is from the bay, but think in the road by which we went, it cannot be less than seven miles. It is called Pe'ea Roa. In our return we found a young pig prepared for us, and we made a hearty meal. We dined in the house of an old acquaintance of Nelson's for whom he had in 1777 planted two shattic plants formerly mentioned which he had brought from the friendly isles. These we had the satisfaction to see were grown to fine trees and full of fruit. In their plantations they do not take much pains except with the ava and the cloth plant, both of which they are careful to keep clear of weeds. Many of the plantations of the cloth plant were fenced with stone and surrounded with a ditch. The yams and plantains are mostly on the higher grounds. As soon as we had finished our dinner we returned towards the ship. I was much delighted in this walk with the number of children that I saw on every part of the country. They are very handsome and sprightly and full of antique tricks. They have many diversions that are common with the boys in England such as flying kites, cat's cradle, swinging, dancing or jumping on a rope, walking upon stilts, and wrestling. Friday 19 The wind today blew fresh but continued regular from the east and east-southeast. We had likewise much rain and a long swell set into the bay. I had not yet determined whether on leaving Mataavi Bay I would go to the island Aemao or to the harbor of Toa Roa near O'Pare. This uncertainty made Tina and the rest of my friends very anxious, and they appeared much distressed on my desiring them this afternoon to send on board all the things which they wished to have repaired by the forage without delay that what they wanted might be done before the ship left Mataavi, which I told them would be in a few days. They very earnestly and treated I would stay one month longer. I represented this as impossible and asked Tina if he would not go with me to Aemao, but he said that notwithstanding my protection he was certain that the Aemao people would watch for an opportunity to kill him. He remained on board with me all night, but his wife went on shore and returned early in the morning bringing with her some axes and other things that were in need of repair. Saturday 20 When I went on shore I found Oto, Obare, Roa, Maona, and several others in great tribulation at the thoughts that we were so soon to leave them. All the people of Mataavi I saw were much concerned at my intention of going to Aemao and took every opportunity to prejudice me against the people of that island, to which I paid very little attention as their motive was obvious. Sunday 21 Their expressions of friendship and affection for me, however, I could not disregard, as I had no doubt of their being genuine and unaffected, and I felt my unwillingness to leave these kind people so much increased that the next day I sent the master and the launch to re-examine the depth of the water between this bay and Toa Roa harbor. He returned in the evening and acquainted me that he had found a good bottom with not less than sixteen fathoms depth all the way. The harbor of Toa Roa appearing every way safe, I determined to get the ship there as speedily as possible, and I immediately made my intentions public, which occasioned great rejoicing. Wednesday 24 This day we took the plants on board, being 774 pots, all in a healthy state, for whenever any plant had an unfavorable appearance it was replaced by another. The number of those rejected was 302, of which not one in ten, but was found to be growing at the root. The natives reckon eight kinds of the breadfruit tree, each of which they distinguish by a different name. 1. Patea, 2. Ero Roa, 3. Awana, 4. Mirei, 5. Oreii, 6. Poe Roa, 7. Apei Ere, 8. Rodei A'a. In the first, fourth, and eighth class, the leaf differs from the rest. The fourth is more sinuated. The eighth has a large broad leaf, not at all sinuated. The difference of the fruit is principally in the first and eighth class. In the first the fruit is rather larger and more of an oblong form, in the eighth it is round and not above half the size of the others. I inquired if plants could be produced from the seed, and was told they could not, but that they must be taken from the root. The plants are best collected after wet weather, at which time the earth balls round the roots, and they are not liable to suffer by being moved. The most common method of dividing time at Otehidi is by moons, but they likewise make a division of the year into six parts, each of which is distinguished by the name of the kind of breadfruit then in season. In this division they keep a small interval called Tawa, in which they do not use the breadfruit. This is about the end of February, when the fruit is not in perfection, but there is no part of the year in which the trees are entirely bare. Thursday, 25. At daylight we unmoored, and I sent the tents in the launch to Opaere, with directions that, after landing them, the launch should meet the ship in the entrance of Tawa Roa Harbor to show the safest part of the channel. At half past ten we got the ship under sail and ran down under top sails when we were near the launch it fell calm, and the ship shot past her. We immediately let the anchor go, but to our great surprise we found the ship was aground forwards. We had run on so easy that we had not perceived it at the time. This accident occasioned us much trouble, as we were obliged to send anchors out as starting to get the ship afloat. In doing this one of the cables swept a rock and was not got clear again without much difficulty. When the ship was moored, Point Venus bore north 46 degrees east, the east part of the harbor north 65 degrees east one quarter of a mile. Our distance from the shore half a cable's length, depth of water, eight and one half fathoms. Friday, 26. The next morning on my landing I was welcomed by all the principal people, I may say by the whole crowd, and congratulated on the safety of the ship. Tina showed me a house near the waterside to breast the ship, which she desired I would make use of, and which was large enough for all our purposes. He and his brother Orei Apalia then desired I would stay and receive a formal address and present, which they called Otee. To this I assented, and a stool was brought for me to sit on. They then left me with Moana, and in the short time I saw Tina returning with about twenty men, who all made a stop at some distance, and a preset a short prayer to the Aatuah, to which the rest made reply. A man was then sent to me three several times, at each time bringing me a small pig and the stem of a plantain leaf. The first they told me was for the god of Brateine, the next for King George, and the last for myself. Moana then got up, and without being dictated to, made an oration for me, the purpose of which I understood to be that I received their offering with thanks, that we were good people and friends, and therefore he exerted them to commit no thefts. He told them to bring their pigs, coconuts, and breadfruit, and they would receive good things in return, that we took nothing without their consent, and finally that every man was to quit the place, that is, the house we occupied, at night, for if they made any visit in the dark they would be killed. With this speech the ceremony ended. I found this a delightful situation, and in every respect convenient. The ship was perfectly sheltered by the reefs and smooth water, and close to a fine beach without the lee surf. A small river with very good water runs into the sea, about the middle of the harbor. I gave directions for the plants to be landed, and the same party to be with them as at Mata Avi. Tina fixed his dwelling close to our station. Monday, 29. Some of the natives took advantage of the butcher's negligence and stole his cleaver. I complained to this to the chiefs who were on board, and they promised that they would endeavor to collect it, but an article so valuable as this was to the natives I had no great expectation of seeing restored. The ship continued to be supplied by the natives as usual. Coconuts were in such plenty that I believe not a pint of water was drunk on board the ship in the twenty-four hours. Breadfruit began to be scarce, though we purchased, without difficulty, a sufficient quantity for our consumption. There was, however, another harvest approaching which they expected would be fit for use in five or six weeks. The better kind of plantains also were become scarce, but a kind which they called behe'e'e were in great plenty. This fruit does not hang on the trees like the other kinds, but grows upon an upright stock of considerable strength and substance. Though this plantain is inferior in quality to most of the others, it affords great subsistence to the natives. We received almost every day presents of fish, chiefly dolphin and albacore, and a few small rockfish. Their fishing is mostly in the night when they make strong lights on the reefs which attract the fish to them. Sometimes in fine weather the canoes are out in such numbers that the whole sea appears illuminated. In the canoes they fish with hook and line and on the reefs they struck the fish with a spear. Some likewise carry out small nets which are managed by two men. In the daytime their fishing canoes go without the reefs, sometimes to considerable distance where they fish with rods and lines and catch bonitas and other fish. Whenever there is a show of fish a fleet of canoes immediately proceeds to sea. Their hooks being bright are used without bait in the manner of our artificial flies. Their rods are made of bamboo, but when there are any large fish they make use of an outrigger over the four part of the canoe about twenty-five feet in the length which has two prongs at the extremity to each of which is fastened a hook and line and when a fish takes the hook it is raised by ropes managed by two men in the stern of the canoe. January 1789 Thursday 1 Contrary to my expectation Tina this afternoon brought on board the cleaver that had been stolen. The thief had taken it to Ata Ho'o Ro'o and Tina told me which I could easily believe that it was given up with reluctance. Friday 2 The next morning I offered Tina a present of axes and other things, but as he suspected this was meant by way of return for getting the cleaver restored he would not be prevailed with to accept a single article. I had constantly the company of Tina, his wife, and some of his relations, but the royal children, though so near as, never came in sight of the ship. The river separated them from the place occupied by our people on shore and, for fear of giving alarm or offense, I gave strict orders that no one should attempt to go near their place of residence. Monday 5 At the relief of the watch at four o'clock this morning the small cutter was missing. I was immediately informed of it and mustered the ship's company when it appeared that three men were absent. Charles Churchill, the ship's corporal, and two of the seamen, William Muspratt and John Millward, the latter of whom had been sentinel from twelve to two in the morning. They had taken with them eight stands of arms and ammunition, but what their plan was, or which way they had gone, no one on board seemed to have the least knowledge. I went on short to the chiefs and soon received information that the boat was at Mata Avi and that the deserters had departed in a sailing canoe for the island Te Rurua. On this intelligence I sent the master to Mata Avi to search for the small cutter and one of the chiefs went with him, but before they had got halfway they met the boat with five of the natives who were bringing her back to the ship. This service rendered me by the people of Mata Avi pleased me much and I rewarded them in accordingly. I told Tina and the other chiefs that I expected they would get the deserters brought back, for I was determined not to leave Otehidi without them. They assured me they would do everything in their power to have them taken, and it was agreed that Orei Apaya and Moana would depart the next morning for Te Rurua. Orei Apaya inquired if they had pocket pistols. For, said he, though we may surprise and seize them before they can make use of their muskets, yet if they have pistols they may do mischief even while they are held. I quieted these apprehensions by assuring them that the deserters had no pistols with them. Tuesday, 6 At daylight Orei Apaya and Moana set off in Tukenuz for Te Rurua, but the weather became so boisterous that they were obliged to return in the forenoon, and I was happy to see them get safe in as the sea ran very high without the harbor. From the first of this month the weather and winds had been much unsettled with a great deal of rain. Our former station at Mata Avi appeared not at all safe, the sea at times breaking high over the dolphin bank and making a great swell in the bay. Orei Apaya and Moana both promised me that they would sail again as soon as the weather should be fine. Friday, 9 The wind continued to blow strong at sea though in the harbor we had at times but light breezes. Poe Aeno from Mata Avi came to see me today. He said he was apprehensive that I was displeased with him on account of our deserters having been carried to Te Rurua by a canoe from Mata Avi. This he declared to have been done before he heard of it, and that the only service in his power he had not neglected to do for me, which was sending our boat back. As this was really an act of friendship I received him with great cordiality and he assured me there could be no doubt from the directions Tina had given of the deserters being brought to the ship as soon as the weather would admit caneers to go after them. Saturday, 10 One of the officers this morning inadvertently plucked a branch from a tree called Toto Ae that bears the oil nut which was growing at a morai. On entering with it into the house occupied by our people all the natives, both men and women, immediately went away. When I went on shore I found this branch tied to one of the posts of the house, although the effect it had on the natives was known. I was much displeased at this piece of wantonness and ordered the branch to be taken away but the natives notwithstanding would not come near the place. They said the house was taboo, which I understood to signify interdicted, and that none of them might approach it till the taboo was taken off, which could only be done by Tina. To take anything away from a morai is regarded as a kind of sacrilege and, they believe, gives great offense to the Aetua. At my request Tina took off the taboo but not before the afternoon. This was performed by an offering of a plantain leaf at the moare and a prayer made to the Aetua. After this ceremony the house was resorted to by the natives as usual. I had not yet given up the hope of obtaining the bowl from Aetia, although I had hitherto received no satisfactory answer to the messages which Tina had sent at my desire. I therefore spoke to Poe Aeno, who undertook to negotiate this business, and I commissioned him to make very liberal offers. He left me after dinner to return to Mata Avi. In the evening the messenger arrived from him to acquaint me that, in his absence, the sheep which I had trusted to his care had been killed by a dog, and that he had sent the culprit, hoping I would kill him for the offense he had committed. This poor sheep had been so much diseased that I cannot help suspecting he died without the dog's assistance, and that the story of the dog was invented to prevent my attributing it to one of care. This doubt did not appear in my answer. As for the dog, I told the messenger to do with him what he pleased. This morning, the weather being more moderate than it had been for some days past, Orei Apai sailed with two caneers for Te Thu Roa. Some business prevented Moana from accompanying him, but he followed the next day with two other caneers. The wood that we had got at Mata Avi being expanded I applied to Tina, who sent three trees down to the waterside before night, which, when caught up, made a good launch load. I saw two instances of jealousy today, one of which nearly produced fatal consequences. A man was detected with a married woman by the husband who stabbed him in the belly with a knife. Fortunately, the intestines escaped, and the wound did not prove dangerous. The other instance was a girl who had constantly lived with my coxton, beating another girl that she discovered who had been too intimate with him. In walking today with Tina near a two-pawal, I was surprised by a sudden outcry of grief. As I expressed a desire to see the distressed person, Tina took me to the place where we found a number of women, one of whom was the mother of a young female child that lay dead. On seeing us, their mourning not only immediately ceased, but to my astonishment they all burst into an immoderate fit of laughter, and while we remained appeared much diverted with our visit. I told Tina the woman had no sorrow for her child, otherwise her grief would not have so easily subsided, on which she joculously told her to cry again. They did not, however, resume their mourning in our presence. The strange behavior would incline us to think them hard-hearted and unfeeling. Did we not know that there are fond parents, and in general very affectionate? It is therefore to be ascribed to their extreme levity of disposition, and it is probable that death does not appear to them with so many terrors as it does to people of a more serious caste. Sunday 18 I received a message from Po Aeno to acquaint me that he had been successful in his negotiations for the bowl, which he had driven part of the way by land, but could not get farther on account of the rivers, and therefore desired a boat should be sent for him. I accordingly ordered the launch to be got ready, and at two o'clock next morning Mr. Friar, the master, set off in her. Monday 19 In the afternoon the launch returned with the bowl and my friend Po Aeno. For the night I directed that the bowl should remain at O'Pare, and the next day he was taken to the cow at Mata Avi. Wednesday 21 Today Po Aeno brought to me the person from whom he had the bowl to receive the stipulated payment, which was one of every article of traffic that I had in my possession. This man, whose name was Owe Avae, they told me was inspired by a divine spirit, and that in all manners of consequence he was consulted, for he had conversed with the Aatua. It was, they said, the Aatua that ordered him to demand the bowl from Tina, which not to have complied with would have been the height of impiety. I had endeavored to convince them of the roguery of this man, thinking I had a fair argument to prove it by his selling, that which the Aatua had ordered him to keep. But here I was easily defeated, for it seems the Aatua told him to sell me the beast. This being the case I said I would not give the animals to any person that they were now mine, and that I would leave them under the protection of Po Aeno and Tina, who I hoped would take care of them for me till I returned. They both entered into my views and promised the animals should be attended to, and told me that while they were considered as my property no one would attempt to take them away. Thursday 22 This afternoon I received a message from Te Paho'o to inform me that our deserters had passed this harbor, and were at Te Taha, about five miles distance. I ordered the cutter to be got ready, and a little before sunset left the ship, taking O-A-D-D-A with me. By his advice I landed at some distance from the place where the deserters were, but thinking it necessary to have the boat within call, and O-D-A assuring me that there was safe landing further on, I directed the boat to proceed along shore of Halst, O-A-D-A-A, and I walked along the beach. The night was very dark and windy, and the shore being rocky I soon lost sight of the boat. A few of the natives had joined us in our walk, and from their manner I had reason to suspect them of a design to close upon us with an intention no doubt to plunder. I was provided with pocket pistols, and on producing one they left us. O-A-D-A was so much alarmed that I could scarce prevail on him to proceed. When we arrived at Te Paho'o's house we were very kindly received by him and his wife. The cutter was arrived, but there being a very high surf she could not come within a hundred yards of the shore. The deserters I was informed were in a house close to us, and I imagined there would be no great difficulty in securing them with the assistance of the natives. They had, however, heard of my arrival, and when I was near the house they came out without their arms and delivered themselves up. I sent directions off to the boat for one of my people to come on shore, and for the boat to return to the place where I had landed. My next business was to secure the arms, which I delivered Te Paho'o to take charge of for the night. One musket and two bayonets were missing, which they said were lost by the canoe in which they had come from Te Thu Roa having overset. I then took leave of Te Paho'o, who presented us with a plentiful supply of provisions, and we proceeded with the deserters toward the boat. But as the wind had increased and it rained hard, I determined to remain on shore till the morning. And having found shoulder for the people, we passed the remainder of the night without accident. At daylight I sent for the arms and we returned to the ship. Friday, 23. I learned from the deserters that at Te Thu Roa they had seen O'Rei Apaya and Moana, who had made an attempt to secure them. They said it was their intention to have returned to the ship, and it was probable that they were so much harassed by the natives watching for an opportunity to surprise them that they might wish to have the merit of returning of their own accord to avoid the disgrace of being seized and brought back. At the time they delivered themselves up to me, it was not in their power to have made resistance, their ammunition having been spoiled by the wet. And consequence of my having been kept all night from the ship by the tempestuous weather, the timekeeper went down at ten hours five minutes thirty-three seconds. Its rate previous to this was one second seven, losing in twenty-four hours, and its error from the meantime at Greenwich was seven minutes twenty-nine seconds, two, too slow. I set it going again by a common watch, corrected by observations, and endeavored to make the error the same as if it had not stopped, but being overcautious made me tedious in setting it in motion and increased the error from meantime at Greenwich. The rate of going I did not find to have altered. At dinner Tina congratulated me on having recovered my men, but expressed some concern that they had not been brought by Ora E Paella and Moana, lest I should imagine they had not done everything in their power. To this I replied that I was perfectly satisfied with their good intentions to serve me, and that I considered myself under great obligations to them for the troubles they had been at on my account. I learned afterwards that they had actually seized and bounded the deserters, but had been prevailed upon by fair promises of their returning peaceably to the ship to let them lose. The deserters, however, finding an opportunity to get possession of their arms, again set the natives at defiance. Friday, thirty. This afternoon I punished one of the seamen's Isaac Martin with nineteen lashes for striking an Indian. This was a transgression of so serious a nature, and such a direct violation of my orders that I would on no account be prevailed on to forgive it, though great intercession was made by some of the chiefs. Ora E Paella and Moana were not yet returned from Te Thu Roa. This place is resorted to by the principal people of this part of Ote Hedi at particular seasons when Fisher and Great Plenty there. It was described to me to be a group of small keys surrounded by a reef. Their produce is chiefly coconuts and plantains. During the season, breadfruit and other provisions are daily carried over from Ote Hedi. Not less than a hundred sale of canoes were at Te Thu Roa when our deserters were there. Te Paho'o and his wife were become my constant visitors. He had for some time passed Benel and had made Opaare, his place of residence, for the benefit of our surgeon's advice and assistance. At this time he complained of a hoarseness and sore throat. Mr. Edward, on examining him, discovered there had been two holes in the roof of his mouth which, though healed, had the appearance of having been large. The adjacent parts appeared sound, yet the surgeon was of opinion that they were cancerous and would, in the end, occasion his death. Saturday, 31. This morning I ordered all the chests to be taken on shore and the inside of the ship to be washed with boiling water to kill the cockroaches. We were constantly obliged to be at great pains to keep the ship clear of vermin on account of the plants. By the help of traps and good cats we were freed from rats and mice. When I was at Ote Hedi with Captain Cook there were great numbers of rats about all the houses and so tamed that they flocked round the people at their meals for the ofals which were commonly thrown to them. But at this time we scarce ever saw a rat which must be attributed to the industry of a breed of cats left there by European ships. After breakfast I walked with Tina to Mata Avi to see the cattle in the gardens. Tina had already taken so large a dose of the ava that he was perfectly stupefied. Idaia, however, was with us and she is one of the most intelligent persons I met with at Ote Hedi. We went first to Poe Aeno's house and saw the bull and cow together in a very fine pasture. I was informed that the cow had taken the bull so that if no untoward accident happens there is a fair chance of the breed being established. In the garden near Poe Aeno's house many things had failed. The Indian corn was in a fine state and I have no doubt but that they will cultivate it all over the country. A fig tree was in a very thriving way as were two vines, a pineapple plant and some slips of a shoddy tree. From this place we walked to the garden at Point Venus but I had the mortification to find that almost everything there was destroyed by the hogs. Some underground peas and Indian corn had escaped and likewise the Kawa Lou Green and Okra of Jamaica. We returned to the ship and after dinner I was not a little surprised to hear Dinas seriously propose that he and his wife should go with me to England. He said he would only take two servants that he much wished to see King George who he was sure would be glad to see him. Tina and many of his countrymen were become extremely eager to get a knowledge of other countries and were continually inquiring about the situation to the islands which we told them of in these seas. To quiet his opportunity I was obliged to promise that I would ask the King's permission to carry them to England if I came again that then I should be in a larger ship and could have accommodations properly fitted up. I was sorry to find that Tina was apprehensive that he should be attacked by his enemies as soon as our ship left Ota Hedi and that if they joined they would be too powerful for him. The illness of Taipo Ho'o with whom he was on good terms gave him much uneasiness. Taipo Ho'o's wife being a sister of Otto's and Aunt Tina. They have no children as has been before related and if Taipo Ho'o were to die he would be succeeded as a Aureae of the district of Ta-ha-ha-ha by his brother who is an enemy to Tina. I have on every occasion endeavored to make the principal people believe that we should return again to Ota Hedi and that we should revenge any injury done in our absence to the people of Mata Aave and Opa Re'e. The wife of Oa De'e is likewise an Aunt to Tina and sister to Otto. His native place is Uli Atae'a where he has some property but which I imagine is not of such consequence to him as the countenance of the chiefs with whom he is connected at Ota Hedi. End of Chapter 9 Chapter 10 of Avoids to the South Sea This library of books recording is in the public domain. Avoids to the South Sea by William Beley. Chapter 10 The ship's cable cut in the night. Cruelness with the chiefs on that account. Visit to an old lady. Disturbance at Ahae'eva. Tina's hospitality. A thief taken and punished. Preparations for sailing. 1789 February Tuesday 3 I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match where a young man, by an unlucky fall, put his arm out of joint at the elbow. Three stout men immediately took hold of him and two of them fixing their feet against his ribs replaced it. I had sent for our surgeon but before he arrived all was well, except a small swelling of the muscles in consequence of the strain. I inquired what they would have done if the bone had been broken and, to show me their practice, they got a number of sticks and placed round the man's arm which they bound with cord. That they have considerable skill in surgery has not to be doubted. I have before mentioned an instance of an amputated arm being perfectly healed and which had every appearance of having been treated with great propriety. The part of the beach nearest to the ship has become the general place of resort towards the close of the day. An hour before sunset the inhabitants begin to collect and here they amused themselves with exercising the lance, dancing, and various kinds of merriment till nearly dark when they retired to their homes. Of this cheerful scene we were spectators and partakers every fine evening. Friday, 6. An occurrence happened today which gave me great concern, not only on account of the danger with which the ship had been threatened but as attended greatly to diminish the confidence and good understanding which had hitherto been constantly preserved between us and the natives. The wind had blown fresh in the night and at daylight we discovered that the table by which the ship rode had been cut near the water's edge in such a manner that only one strand remained whole. While we were securing the ship Tina came on board. I could not but believe he was perfectly innocent of the transaction. Nevertheless I spoke to him in a very preemptory manner and insisted on his discovering and bringing to me the offender. I was wholly at a loss how to account for this malicious act. My suspicions fell chiefly, I may say wholly, on the strangers that came to us from other parts of the island for we had on every occasion received such unreserved and unaffected marks of goodwill from the people of Mata Avi and Opare that in my mind I entirely acquitted them. The anger of which I expressed, however, created so much alarm that old Oto and his wife, the father and mother of Tina, immediately quitted Opare and retired to the mountain in the midst of heavy rain as did Tepaho and his family. Tina and Idee remained and expostulated with me on the unreasonableness of my anger against them. He said he would exert his utmost endeavours to discover the guilty person, but it might possibly not be in his power to get him delivered up, which would be the case if he were either of Ti-A-R-O-Bo-O, A-T-A-O-O-R-O-O, or of the island A-E-M-A-O, that the attempt might have been made as much out of eminent heed to the people of Mata Avi and Opare as to me, everyone knowing the regard I had for them and that I had declared I would protect them against their enemies. All this I was inclined to believe, but I did not think proper to appear as perfectly satisfied Lestina, who was naturally very indolent, should be remiss in his endeavours to detect the offender, to guard as much as possible against future attempts of this kind. I directed a stage to be built on the forecastle, so that the cables should be more directly under the eye of the sentinel, and I likewise gave orders that one of the midshipmen should keep watch forward. In the afternoon Orei Apaya returned from Tethuroa. He told me that Moana and himself had narrowly escaped being lost in the bad weather, and that Moana had been obliged to take shelter at A.E. Mayo. Several canoes had been lost lately in their passage tour from Tethuroa. The oversetting of their canoes is not the only risk they have to encounter, but is productive of another danger more dreadful. For at such times many become afraid to the sharks which are very numerous in these seas. I was informed likewise that they are sometimes attacked by a fish which by their description I imagine to be the barracuda, as they attribute to it the same propensity. Saturday passed without my seeing anything of Tina the whole day. Sunday 8 The next morning he in Aidaea came to me and assured me that they had made the strictest inquiries concerning the injury intended us, but had not been able to discover any circumstance which could lead them to suspect who were concerned in it. This was not at all satisfactory, and I behaved towards them with great coolness at which they were much distressed. And Aidaea at length gave Ventur Hursoro by tears. I could no longer keep up the pretense of mistrusting them, but I earnestly recommended to them as they valued the king of England's friendship that they would exert their utmost endeavours to find out the offenders which they faithfully promised. Our reconciliation accordingly took place and messengers were sent to equate Oto and Taipa Ho'o and to invite them to return. It has since occurred to me that this attempt to cut the ship adrift was most probably the act of some of our own people whose purpose of remaining that Ota Hedi might have been effectually answered without danger if the ship had been driven on shore. At the time I entertained not the least thought of this kind, nor did the possibility of it enter into my ideas, having no suspicion that so general an inclination or so strong an attachment to these islands could prevail among my people as to induce them to abandon every prospect of returning to their native country. A messenger came to me this afternoon from the A.R. Rayap of Tiyaraba'u, the southeast division of Ota Hedi with an invitation for me to visit him. I excused myself on account of the distance and, at Tina's request, sent back by the messenger a handsome present which I hope Tina will get the credit of. I observed with much satisfaction that a great deal of what Tina had received from me he had distributed to some out of friendship and esteem and to others with motives of political civility. Tuesday 10 Tapa'u'u and his family left us today to go to Tihaha where a grand He'eva was to be performed at which their presence was required. Wednesday 11 A small party of He'eva people passed through Opare this morning in their way to Te'e Taha where they were going by appointment. They had the civility to send me word that if I chose they would stay to perform a short He'eva before me and I immediately attended. It began by a dance of two young girls to the music of drums and flutes which lasted no long time. At the conclusion they suddenly dropped all their dress which was left as a present for me and went off without my scene them any more. After this they been danced their performance was more indecent than any I had before seen but was not the less applauded on that account by the natives who seemed much delighted. After this entertainment I went with Tina and Adea to pay a visit to an old lady named Wa'oa'ora Widow Totoa the late A'a'rea of Te'e Taha who conducted the expedition against A'e Mio when Captain Cook was here in 1777. The old lady had just landed and we found her sitting on the beach by the head of her canoe. With Tina was a priest and three men who carried a young dog, a fowl, and two young plantain boughs. These were intended for the offering or present called Ote'e. Tina and his party seated themselves about ten yards distant from Wa'oa'ora and were addressed by her in short sentences for a few minutes and received her Ote'e which was exactly the same as his. Tina's priest in return made a short prayer and his offering was presented to the old lady. Tina then rose and went to her and embraced her in a very affectionate manner and she returned his kindness with tears and many expressions which I could not understand. Soon after he conducted her to a shed and we remained with her till it was time to go on board to dinner. I invited her to be of the party but she excused herself on account of age and infirmity. Tina gave directions for her and her attendance to be supplied with whatever they had occasion for and we went off to the ship. Friday, 13 This foreigner in Tina sent to inform me that many strangers had arrived from all parts to be present at a great hay-eva which he had prepared in compliment to me. I accordingly went on shore and found a great crowd of people collected together. A ring was made at a little distance from our post and Tina and several other chiefs came to meet me. When we were all seated the hay-eva began by women dancing after which a present of cloth and a tome or breastplate was laid before me. This ceremony being over the men began to wrestle and regularity was no longer preserved. Old Otto came to me and desired I would help put a stop to the wrestling as the people came from different districts some of which were ill-disposed towards others. What Otto had apprehended was not without reason. For in an instant the hole was too mulled. Every man took to his arms and, as I found my single interference could be of no service, I retired to our post and ordered all my people there under arms. At the time the disturbance began Tina and Idea were absent. Their first care was for me and Idea came to see if I was safe at the post. She had a double covering of cloth round her and her waist was guarded with a large rope. I desired her to stay under my protection. This she would not consent to but said she would return as soon as all was over in a way she went. I immediately gave orders for two guns to be fired from the ship without shot which had a good effect and, as no chief was concerned in the tumult, but on the contrary all of them exerted their influence to prevent mischief. Everything was soon quiet and Tina and Idea returned to let me know all was settled. They went on board with some other chiefs and dined with me. After dinner I went on shore with Tina and his friends and I found three large hogs dressed and a quantity of breadfruit which he had ordered to be prepared before he went on board and now desired I would present them to the different parties that had come to see the entertainment. One to the chief people of Ata Ho Oroo, one to the A Ray Oos, and a third to the performers of the Hey Eva. I presented them according to his directions and they were received with thankfulness and pleasure. This I looked upon as very handsomely done on the part of Tina and I was glad to see it was regarded in the same light by his guests. These instances of liberality make full amends for the little slips which I have formally noticed in Tina. At this time a day seldom passed that he did not give proofs of his hospitality by entertaining the principal people that came from different parts of the island to visit him or to see the ship. Some of the chiefs he commonly invited to dine on board and made provisions for others on shore. Scarce any person of consequence went away without receiving some present from him. This I encouraged and was glad it was in my power to assist him. But besides the political motives that I have alluded to it would be in just to Tina not to acknowledge that his disposition seemed improved. He was more open and unreserved in his manners than formally and his hospitality was natural and without ostentation. Monday, 16. I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match by women. The manner of challenging and method of attack was exactly the same as among the men. The only difference that I could observe was not in favor of the softer sex for in these contests they showed less temper and more animosity than I could have imagined them capable of. The women, I was told, not only wrestle with each other but sometimes with the men. Of this I have never seen an instance and imagine it can happen but seldom as the women in general are small and by no means masculine. Adaya has said to be very famous at this exercise. Tuesday, 17. I walked with Tina towards the hills to see his country residence which was at a very neat house pleasantly situated and surrounded with plantations. From this place we saw the island Tetharoa. The next morning I went to Matahavi to look after the Indian cord which I judged would be full ripe for gathering but on my arrival I found that the natives had been beforehand with me the whole being taken away. This I was not at all sorry for as it shows that they value it too much to neglect cultivating it. Monday, 23. Adaya sent on board for our dinners today a very fine taro pudding and Tina brought a bunch of bananas that weighed 81 pounds on which were 286 fine fruit 10 had broken off in the carriage. The taro pudding is excellent eating and easily made. I shall describe this piece of cookery as the knowledge of it may be useful in the West Indies. The taro being cleared of the outside skin is grated down and made up in rolls of about half a pound each which they cover neatly with leaves and bake for near half an hour. An equal quantity of ripe coconut meat is likewise grated from which through a strainer the rich milky juice is expressed. This juice is heated by putting smooth hot stones in the vessel that contain it and the taro is then mixed with it and kept constantly stirring to prevent burning till it is ready which is known by the coconut juice turning to a clear oil. Wednesday, 25. Adaya was very uneasy today on account of her youngest child being ill. She would not accept of assistance from our surgeon but said she had sent to Tata for a man who she expected would come and tell her what to do. These physical people are called Tata Rapao. Thursday, 26. This morning the man died of consumption about two miles from our post. I was informed of it by Mr. Peckover, the gunner, who I had desired to look out for such a circumstance. I therefore went accompanied by Adaya in hopes of seeing the funeral ceremony. But before we arrived the body was removed to the To'o A'oh. It lay bare except a piece of cloth round the lines and another round the neck. The eyes were closed, the hands were placed one over the pit of the stomach and the other upon his breast. On a finger of each hand was a ring made of plated fibers of the coconut tree with a small bunch of red feathers. Under the To'o A'oh, a hole was dug, in which at the end of the month the corpse was to be buried. The deceased was of the lower class. The To'o A'oh, however, was neat and offerings of coconuts and plated leaves lay on the ground. The dead are sometimes brought to the To'o A'oh in wood coffins which are not shaped like ours but are simply a long box. This custom Adaya informed me they learnt from the Europeans and is not very common as making plank is a work of great labour. March, Monday, 2 When I landed this morning I found the inhabitants that lived near to us had left their houses and retired towards the mountains and was informed that in the night a water-cask, part of an azimuth compass and Mr. Peckover's bedding had been stolen from the post on shore, the knowledge of which had caused a general alarm. I sent a message to complain of this theft to Tina who did not come near me. About two hours elapsed during which time I went on board to breakfast and returned when I saw Tina an Opae A'paya with a number of people at a house at some distance and soon after they all marched to the eastward passing close by our post. O'oday, A, who was with me, told me they had intelligence of the thief and were gone in quest of him and in less than an hour news was brought that they had taken him. Shortly after the whole party appeared with the water-cask and compass Tina had hold of the thief by the arm and showing him to me desired that I would kill him. The bedding, he said, he had not heard of but would go in search of it. I applauded him for the pain he had taken in this business and explained with some success the injustice of stealing from us that if any of our people committed the least offense against them it did not pass unnoticed and that friendship required on their part that those who injured us should not be protected by them. Tina stopped me from saying more by embracing me and the whole crowd called out Tai'o Mai Tai, that is, good friend. Tina then left me to inquire after the bedding and I sent the offender on board whom I punished with a severe flogging. I was glad to find this man was not of Opare or Mata Aave. The fine fruit called Aavea was just coming in the season. It was likewise in season at our rival in October. The breadfruit trees I have no doubt bear all the year round. We have seen a scarcity of breadfruit but have never been holy without it. Some fern root was shown to me which in scarce seasons is used by the natives as bread. It bears a long, even-edged leaf about an inch wide with a taste somewhat resembled that of a yam. I was informed by our people that in their walks they saw in many places patches of Indian corn just making their appearance through the ground. This convinces me that the corn taken from Mata Aave could not have been better disposed of. Goats are frequently offered for sale but I rather discourage the buying of them for fear of injuring the breed. The natives will not eat them, neither will they taste the milk and ask with some appearance of a disgust why we do not milk the sows. I endeavored to prevail on Tina an idea to eat the goat's milk by mixing it with fruit but they would only try one spoonful. We had begun to make preparations for sailing and Tina supplied us with a sufficient stock of wood by ordering trees to be brought down from the country. He had frequently expressed a wish that I would leave some firearms and ammunition with him as he expected to be attacked after the ship sailed and perhaps chiefly on account of our partiality to him. I therefore thought it but reasonable to attend to his request and I was the more readily prevailed on as he said his intentions were to act only on the defensive. This indeed seems most suited to his disposition which is neither active nor enterprising. If Tina had spirit in proportion to his size and strength he would probably be the greatest warrior in Otehidi but courage is not the most conspicuous of his virtues. When I promised to leave with him a pair of pistols which they prefer to muskets he told me that I'dea would fight with one and O'dea with the other. I'dea has learned to load and fire a musket with great dexterity and O'dea is an excellent marksman. It is not common for women in this country to go to war but I'dea is a very resolute woman of a large make and has great bodily strength. Friday 6 I sent Mr. Friar the Master to San Taone Harbor. The knowledge that we intended shortly to sail having spread among the natives a great many broken iron tools were brought from all parts of the island to be repaired at our forge. And this morning the messenger arrived from O'dea to the A'a-re'a of Ta'a-raboo with several pieces of Spanish iron which he desired to have made into small ads. This request was of course complied with. End of chapter 10 Chapter 11 of A Voyage to the South Sea This library of O'dea's recording is in the public domain. A Voyage to the South Sea by William Bly Chapter 11 Arrival of an A'a-re'a woman from Teithu Roa present delivered by Tina for his majesty. Other occurrences to the time of the ship's departure from O'dea. 1789 March From the 5th to the 14th of this month the wind blew constantly from between the northwest and southwest with a great deal of rain. This was the longest continuance of westerly winds without interruption that we experienced. On the 13th several canoes arrived here and at Mata'a'vi from Teithu Roa and these were a large tribe of A'rao's and among them Huhe'ine Mo'a're, the wife of O're'a'paya, who is an A're'a'o woman and remained at Teithu Roa after O're'a'paya came away. On her arrival a ceremony was performed called Ho'o'a'p'a'a which seemed to be designed as a public visit to all their friends who were collected for the occasion. In this ceremony there was nothing remarkable. The A'rao men took their opportunity to plunder the women who were near them and A'ra'a made a present of some cloth to Huhe'ine Mo'a're and a baked hog to the A'rao's. Friday 13 After this ceremony a present was produced from many of the principal people for young O'toa, the A'ra'a Rahi'a which was received by A'ra'a, Tina being absent. This present consisted of five hogs and forty-eight baskets filled with breadfruit, coconuts, taro, and different kinds of footings. The baskets were decorated with slips of cloth stained with a variety of colors and carried by twenty-four men, each of whom had a pole on his shoulder, at each end of which was a basket. I have seldom spoken of O'toa'o who was too young to have any share in the management of affairs, and with whom we were not permitted to have any intercourse, except speaking to him now and then across a river, at which times I did not neglect to send the children some little presents so that they always rejoiced to see me. I might have been admitted to a nearer acquaintance if I would have gone with my shoulders uncovered, as his parents did, but this I declined. The children do not all live under the same roof, the two sisters eating and sleeping in a separate house, though at other times they are generally together. The island Tethuroa may very properly be compared to some of our watering places in England, producing a similar effect upon those who visit it. Many, who went there covered with scurf, return plump and fair and scarce like the same people. This alteration for the better is in a great measure to be attributed to the discontinuance of the Ava, which Tethuroa does not produce. The coconut trees, likewise, which supply them with their only beverage, growing on low sandy keys and having their roots below the level of the sea, may probably have qualities different from the coconuts of O. Tahiti, which, with plenty of fish, that at other times they are not accustomed to, must no doubt contribute to the amendment described. Saturday 14 I was visited today by a very old man, an uncle to Tupia, the person who went from these islands in the Endeavour in the year 1769 and who died at Batavia. He appeared to be near 70 years old and was treated with much respect by the natives. He made several inquiries concerning his nephew and requested that when I came again I would bring his hair. At the time that Tina mentioned to me his desire of visiting England, I asked what account I could give to his friends if he should not live to return, to which he replied that I must cut off his hair and carry it to them and they would be perfectly satisfied. Monday 16 On the 16th I was informed that a stop was put to the sale of hugs in the district of Taha. Tepa Ho'o, the Aare of that district, told me that they had very few hugs left there and that it was necessary for a certain time to prohibit every person from killing or selling that they might have time to breed. I did not think it reasonable to solicit any indulgence on this head. My friends at Mataavi and Opare promised to supply us as long as we remained there. Though we had considerably thined their stock, after our departure the same restriction was to take place in these districts and it being delayed on our account certainly deserves to be regarded among their acts of friendship towards us. As it was generally known that we were preparing to sale, a number of the natives from other parts of the island were constantly with us and petty thefts were committed whenever the negligence of our people afforded an opportunity but no attempt of any consequence was made. Thursday 19 This evening Mr. Samwell, my clerk, returned from an excursion to the mountains having been two days absent. He described the hills to be well clothed with wood, except the tops of the higher mountains which only produced bushes and fern. The birds he saw were blue parakeets and green doves, except one which he found burrowing in the ground and brought to me. This bird was about the size of a pigeon and proved to be a white-bellied petrel of the same kind as those seen in high latitudes which are called shear waters. He likewise brought a branch of a plant like the New Zealand tea plant and which at Van Damen's land we had made use of for brooms. From the hills he saw the islands Maitea and Huaene, which are situated nearly in opposite directions from Ota Hedi and are 70 leagues distant from each other. Friday 27 For some days past Tina had been busy didn't getting two pa'ais or morning dresses made, which he intended as a present to King George. Being finished, they were this morning hung up in his house as a public exhibition and a long prayer was made on the occasion. The substance of which was that the King of England might forever remain his friend and not forget him. When he presented the pa'ais for me to take on board, he could not refrain from shedding tears. During the short remainder of our stay here there appeared among the natives an evident degree of sorrow that we were so soon to leave them, which they showed by unusual kindness and attention. We began this afternoon to remove the plants to the ship. They were in excellent order, the roots that appeared through the bottom of the pots and would have shot into the ground if care had not been taken to prevent it. The weather was considerably altered for the better and a trade wind appeared settled. The rainy and bad season of the year may be reckoned to begin towards the end of November and continue till near the end of March. During this time the winds are variable and often westerly, though we've seldom found them to blow strong in that direction. We likewise experienced frequent intervals of fine weather, but during these months so open a road as Mataavi Bay is not a safe anchoring place for ships that intend remaining any length of time at Otehidi. Tuesday 31 Today all the plants were on board, being in 774 pots, 39 tubs, and 24 boxes. The number of breadfruit plants were 1,015, besides which we had collected a number of other plants. The Avae, which is one of the finest flavored fruits in the world. The A'a, which is a fruit not so rich, but of a fine flavor and very refreshing. The Rata, not much unlike a chestnut, which grows on a large tree in great quantities. They are singly and large pods from 1 to 2 inches broad and may be eaten raw or boiled in the same manner of Windsor beans and so dressed are equally good. The O'Raea, which is a very superior kind of plantain. All these I was particularly recommended to collect by my worthy friends or Joseph Banks. I had also taken on board some plants of the Aetoh and Mata, with which the datives here make a beautiful red color and a root called Paea, of which they make an excellent pudding. I now made my last presence to several of my friends with whom I had been most intimate, particularly to Taepahao. Several people expressed great desire to go with us to England. O'aea, a day A'a, who was always very much attached to us, said he considered it as his right, having formerly left his native place to sail with Captain Cook. Scarcity men belonging to the ship was without a tie-o, who brought to him presence chiefly of provisions for a sea store. April, Friday, 3 Tina and his wife, with his parents, brothers, and sister, dined with me today and, as I meant to sail early the next morning, they all remained on board for the night. The ship was crowded the whole day with natives and we were loaded with coconuts, plantains, breadfruit, hogs, and goats. In the evening there was no dancing or mirth on the beach, such as we had been accustomed to, but all was silent. Saturday, 4 At daylight we unmoored. The stock of the best bower anchor was so much eaten by the worms that it broke in stowing the anchor. The small bower had an iron stock, and in these voyages it is very necessary that ships should be provided with iron anchor stocks. At half past six there being no wind we weighed, and with our boats and two sweeps towed the ship out of the harbor. Soon after the sea breeze came and we stood off towards the sea. The outlet of Toa Roa harbor being narrow I could permit only a few of the natives to be on board. Many others, however, attended in canoes till the breeze came when I was obliged to leave them. We stood off and on almost all the remainder of the day. Tina and Idea pressed me very strongly to anchor in Mata Avi Bay and stay one night longer, but as I had already taken leave of most of my friends I thought it better to keep to my intention of sailing. After dinner I ordered the presents which I had preserved for Tina and his wife to be put in one of the ship's boats, and as I had promised him firearms I gave him two muskets, a pair of pistols, and a good stock of ammunition. I then represented to them the necessity of their going away that the boat might return to the ship before it was dark, on which they took a most affectionate leave of me and went into the boat. One of their expressions departing was yo-oh-rah-no-ta-ay-ah-to-ah-te-ay-ah-ve-ah-rah May the ay-ah-to-ah protect you forever and ever. All the time we remained at Otehidi the picture of Captain Cook at the desire of Tina was kept on board the ship. On delivering it to him I wrote on the back the time of the ship's arrival and departure with an account of the number of plants on board. Tina had desired that I would salute him at his departure with the great guns, which I could not comply with for fear of disturbing the plants, but as a parting token of our regard we manned ship with all hands and gave him three cheers. At sunset the boat returned and we made sail, bidding farewell to Otehidi where for twenty-three weeks we had been treated with the utmost affection and regard and which seemed to increase in proportion to our stay. That we were not insensible to their kindness the events which followed more than sufficiently proves. For to the friendly and enduring behavior of these people may be ascribed the motives for that event which affected the ruin of an expedition that there was every reason to hope would have been completed in the most fortunate manner. To enter into a description of the island or its inhabitants I look upon as superfluous. From the accounts of former voyages and the facts which I have related the character that people will appear in as true a light as by any description in my power to give. The length of time that we remained at Otehidi with the advantage of having been there before gave me opportunities of making perhaps a more perfect vocabulary of the language than has yet appeared. But I have chosen to defer it for the present as there is a probability that I may hereafter be better qualified for such a task. We left Otehidi with only two patients in the venereal as to which shows that the disease has not gained ground. The natives say it is of little consequence and we saw several instances of people that had been affected who, after absenting themselves for fifteen or twenty days, made their appearance again without any visible symptom remaining of the disease. Their method of cure I am unacquainted with but their customary diet and mode of living must contribute towards it. We saw a great many people however with scruffulous habits and bad sores. These they denied to be produced from any venereal cause and our surgeon was of the same opinion. The result of the mean of fifty sets of lunar observations taken by me on shore gives the longitude of Point Venus 210 degrees 33 minutes 57 seconds east Captain Cook in 1769 places it in 210 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds east in 1777 his last voyage 210 degrees 22 minutes 28 seconds east The tide in the Toa Roa harbor was very inconsiderable and not regular. The greatest rise that I observed was 11 inches but what was most singular the time of high water did not appear to be governed by the moon had been at the highest every day between noon and two o'clock. The variable winds and weather at this time of the year has no doubt an influence on the tides on some days the scariest any rise was perceptible. End of Chapter 11 Chapter 12 of A Voyage to the South Sea This Library of Oaks recording is in the public domain. A Voyage to the South Sea by William Bligh Chapter 12 At the island A. A. Heine a friend of Omae visits the ship leave the society islands a waterspout the island Waito'otak K. A. discovered anchoring Anna Maoka road our party's on shore robbed by the natives sail from Anna Maoka the chiefs detained on board part friendly 1789 April Sunday 5 We steer towards the island Ha'uheine which we got side of the next morning At noon we brought to near the entrance of O'harae harbour it not being my intention to anchor we could see every part of the harbour distinctly but my attention was particularly directed to the spot where Omae's house had stood no part of which was now visible it was near three o'clock before any canoes came off to us for the people on shore imagined that the ship was coming into the harbour the first that arrived had three men in it who brought a few coconuts I inquired about the chief or A.R.A.A. Ra'heine and one of the fellows with great gravity said he was the A.R.A.A. Ra'heine and that he had come to desire I would bring the ship into harbour I could not help laughing that his impudence however I gave him a few nails for his coconuts and he left us immediately after a double canoe in which were ten men came along among them was a young man who recollected and called me by my name several other canoes arrived with hogs yams and other provisions which we purchased my acquaintance told me he had lived with our friend Omae he confirmed the account that had already been given and informed me that of all the animals which had been left with Omae the mare only remained alive he said that Omae and himself had often rode together and I observed that many of the islanders who came on board had the representation of a man on horseback tattooed on their legs after the death of Omae his house was broken into pieces and the material stolen the firearms were at Uli Atea but useless I inquired after the seeds and plants and was informed that they were all destroyed except one tree but of what kind that was I could not make out from their description I was much pressed to take the ship into the harbor and Omae's companion requested me to let him go to England when they found out that I would not stop among them they seemed jealous if we're going to Uli Atea and it appeared to give them some satisfaction when I told them that I should not go near that island the canoes had left us and we were making sail when we discovered an Indian in the water swimming towards the shore which in all probability he would not have been able to reach we took him up and luckily another canoe coming alongside we put him in her the people of the canoe said that the man was insane but how he came to be swimming so far from the land we could not conjecture at six o'clock we made sail and ran all night to the southwest and southwest by south between the islands Hu Ahay Ainay and Uli Atea the next morning I altered the course stirring more to the southwest for the friendly islands Thursday 9 on the 9th at 9 o'clock in the morning the weather became squally and a body of thick black clouds collected in the east soon after a waterspout was seen at no great distance from us which appeared to great advantage from the darkness of the clouds behind it as nearly as I could judge it was about two feet diameter at the upper part and about eight inches at the lower I had scarcely made these remarks when I observed that it was advancing rapidly towards the ship we immediately altered our course and took in all the sails except the foresail soon after which it passed within ten yards of our stern making a rustling noise but without our feeling the least effect from it being so near us the rate at which it traveled I judged to be about ten miles per hour going towards the west in the direction of the wind in a quarter of an hour after passing us it dispersed I was never so near a waterspout before the connection between the column which was higher than our mastheads and the water below was no otherwise visible then by the sea being disturbed in a circular space of about six yards in diameter the center of which from the whirling of the water around it formed a hollow and from the outer part of the circle the water was thrown up with much force in a spiral direction and could be traced to the height of 15 or 20 feet at this elevation we lost sight of it and could see nothing of its junction with the column above it is impossible to say what injury we should have suffered if it had passed directly over us mastheads I imagine might have been carried away but I do not apprehend it would have endangered the loss of a ship Saturday 11 as we sailed very near the track made in former voyages I had little reason to expect that we should at this time make any new discovery nevertheless on the 11th the daylight land was seen to the south southwest at about five leagues distance which appeared to be an island of a moderate height on the north part was around hill the northwest part was highest and steep the southeast part sloped off to a low point the wind had been westerly since the preceding noon and at the time we saw the island the ship was standing to the northwest at six we tacked to the southward and as we advanced in that direction discovered a number of low keys of which at noon we counted nine they were all covered with trees the large island first seen had a most fruitful appearance its shore being bordered with flat land on which grew innumerable coconut and other trees and the higher grounds beautifully interspersed with lawns the wind being light and unfavorable we endeavored all day but without success to get near the land in the night we had a heavy squall which obliged us to clue up all our sails and soon after it fell calm Sunday 12 the winds were light and variable all day with calms at two in the afternoon we were within three miles to the southernmost key and could see a number of people within the reefs shortly after a canoe in which were four men paddled off to us and came alongside without showing any signs of apprehension or surprise I gave them a few beads and they came into the ship one man who seemed to have an ascendancy over the others looked about the ship with some appearance of curiosity but none of them would venture to go below they asked for some boiled fresh pork which they saw in a bowl belonging to one of the seamen and it was given to them to eat with boiled plantains being told that I was the Eireae our chief of the ship the principal person came and joined noses with me and presented to me a large mother of pearl shell which hung with plated hair around his neck this he fastened around my neck with signs of great satisfaction they spoke the same language as at Otehidi with very little variation as far as I could judge and the small vocabulary that I made whilst conversing with these men only four words out of 24 differed from the Otehidi the name of the large island they told me was Watotakeae and the Eireae was called Lomakaya they said there were no hugs, dogs, or goats upon the island nor had they yams or taro but that plantains, coconuts, fowls, breadfruit, and aveas were there in great abundance notwithstanding they said that no hugs were on the island it was evident they had seen such animals for they called them by the same name as is given to them at Otehidi which made me suspect that they were deceiving me however I ordered a young boar and sal to be put into their canoe with some yams and taro as we could afford to part with some of these articles I also gave to each of them a knife, a small adds some nails, beads, and a looking glass the latter they examined with great curiosity but with the ironwork they appeared to be equated calling it A-O-U-Re-A which is the common name for iron among the islands where it is known as they were preparing to leave us the chief of the canoe took possession of everything that I had given to the others one of them showed some signs of dissatisfaction but after a little altercation they joined noses and were reconciled I now thought they were going to leave the ship but only two of them went into the canoe the other two proposing to stay all night with us and to have the canoe return for them in the morning I would have treated their confidence with a regarded merited but it was impossible to say how far the ship might be driven from the island in the night this I explained to them and they reluctantly consented to leave us they were very solicitous that somebody from the ship should go on shore with them and just before they quitted us they gave me a wooden spear which was the only thing the paddles accepted they had brought with them in the canoe it was a common long staff pointed with toa wood the island of waito otake is about 10 miles in circuit it's latitude from 18 degrees 50 minutes to 18 degrees 54 minutes south and longitude 200 degrees 19 minutes east a group of small keys eight in number light to the southeast four or five miles distance from waito otake and a single one to the west southwest the southern most of the group is in latitude 18 degrees 58 minutes south variation of the compass eight degrees 14 minutes east the people that came off to us did not differ in appearance from the natives of hervy's islands seeing the captain cook's last voyage they're much more friendly and inoffensive in their manner they were tattooed across the arms and legs but not on the lines or posteriors like the people of otahiti from their knowledge of iron they have not less communication with hervy's islands which are not more than 18 leagues distant from them in the night of resprang up from the south and we continued our course to the westward Saturday 18 on the 18th at sunset we saw savage island and in the night passed by to the southward of it Tuesday 21 at 11 o'clock in the forenoon on the 21st we saw the island kaho from the masthead bearing northwest by west three-quarters west this island is a high mountain with a sharp pointed top and is the northwestern most of all the friendly islands at noon we saw it very distinctly from the deck at being then 19 leagues distant from us Thursday 23 the wind being to the southward we could not fetch ana mokoa at which island I intended to stop before the evening of the 23rd when we anchored in the road in 23 fathoms the extremes of ana mokoa bearing east by north and south by east our distance from the shore being half a league in the middle of the day a canoe had come off to us from the island mango and which was a chief named Latoomei Lange who dined with me immediately on our anchoring several canoes came alongside with yams and coconuts but none of the natives offered to come on board without first asking permission as yet I had seen no person with whom I could recollect to have informally acquainted I made inquiries after some of our old friends particularly the chiefs but I found myself not sufficiently master of the language to obtain the information I wanted Friday 24 our station being inconvenient for watering at daylight we wade and worked more to the eastward where we anchored in 21 fathoms the extremes of ana mokoa bearing north 85 degrees east and south 33 degrees west the sandy bay south 73 degrees east our distance from the shore half a league sounded all around the ship and found the ground to be a coarse coral bottom but with even soundings by this time some large sailing canoes were arrived from different islands in the neighborhood of ana mokoa and an old lame man named Taipa whom I had known in 1777 and immediately recollected came on board two other chiefs whose names were no-o-o-ko-bo-o and kun-o-ko-po were with him Taipa having formerly been accustomed to our manner of speaking their language I found I could converse with him tolerably well he informed me that po-o-la-ho fe-eno and tu-bo were alive and that tanga-ta-bo-o and that they would come hither as soon as they heard of our arrival of which he promised to send them immediate notice he said the cattle which we left at tanga-ta-bo-o had all bred and that the old ones were yet living he inquired after several people who were here with captain cook bane desirous to see the ship I took him and his companions below and showed them the breadfruit and other plants at scene which they were greatly surprised I made each of them a present and when they had satisfied their curiosity I invited them to go on shore with me in the ship's boat I took Nelson with me to procure some breadfruit plants one of our stock bane dad and two or three others a little sickly when we landed there were about two hundred people on the beach most of them women and children Tepa showed me a large boat house which he told me we might make use of thinking we should have a party on shore as our ships had formerly I went with him in search of water but could find no better place than where captain cook had watered which is a quarter of a mile inland from the east end of the beach I next walked to the west point of the bay where some plants and seeds had been sown by captain cook and had the satisfaction to see in a plantation close by about 20 fine pineapple plants but no fruit this not being the proper season they told me they had eaten many of them that they were fine and large and that at tango tabo there were great numbers when I returned to the landing place I was desired to sit down and a present was brought me which consisted of some bundles of coconuts only this fell short of my expectations however I appeared satisfied and distributed beads and trinkets to the women and children near me numerous were the marks of mourning with which these people disfigured themselves such as bloody temples their heads deprived of most of their hair and what was worse almost all of them with the loss of some of their fingers several fine boys not above six years old had lost both their little fingers and some of the men besides these had parted with the middle finger of the right hand the chiefs went off with me to dinner and I found a brisk trade carrying on at the ship for yams some plantains and breadfruit were likewise brought on board but no hogs in the afternoon more saline canoes arrived some of which contained not less than 90 passengers we purchased eight hogs some dogs fowls and shatties yams were in great abundance very fine and large one yam weighed above 45 pounds among the people that came this afternoon were two of the name tuba which is a family of the first distinction among the friendly islands one of them was chief of the island leifu oligah with him and tape I went on shore to see the wooding place I found a variety of sizable trees but the kind with which I principally pitched upon was the barringtonia of foster I acquainted tape with my attention of sending people to cut wood which meeting with his approbation we parted saturday 25 on the 25th the daylight the wooding and watering parties went on shore I had directed them not to cut the kind of tree footnote exo carry agalocha lin sp pl called in the melee language kaja mata buta which signifies the tree that wounds the eyes and the footnote which when captain cook wooded here in 1777 blinded for a time many of the woodcutters they had not been an hour on shore before one man had an axe stolen from him and another and ads tape was applied to who got the axe restored but the ads was not recovered in the evening we completed wooding Sunday 26 in the morning Nelson went on shore to get a few plans but no principal chief being among the people he was insulted and his spade taken from him a ship's grapple was likewise stolen from the watering party taper recovered the spade for us but that the crowd of natives was become so great by the number of canoes that had arrived from different islands that it was impossible to do anything where there was such a multitude of people without a chief of sufficient authority to command the whole I therefore ordered the watering party to go on board and determine the sale for I could not discover that any canoe had been sent to acquaint the chiefs of tango tabo of our being here for some time after the thefts were committed the chiefs kept away but before noon they came on board at noon we unmoored and at one o'clock got under sale the two tubos kuno capo lotto of my lying and another chief were on board and I acquainted them that unless the grapple was returned they must remain in the ship they were surprised and not a little alarmed canoes were immediately dispatched after the grapple which I was informed could not possibly be brought to the ship before the next day as those who had stolen it immediately sailed with their prize to another island nevertheless I detained them till sunset when their uneasiness and impatience increased to such a degree that they began to beat themselves about the face and eyes and some of them cried bitterly as this distress was more than the grapple was worth and I had no reason to imagine that they were privy to or in any manner connected in the theft I could not think of detaining them any longer and call their canoes alongside I then told them they were liberated to go and made each of them a present of a hatchet a saw with some knives gimbals and nails this unexpected present and the sudden change in their situation affected them not less with joy than they had before been with apprehension they were unbounded in their acknowledgments and I have little doubt but that we parted better friends than if the affair had never happened we stood to the northward all night with white winds Monday 27 and on the next day the 27th at noon were between the islands Tofua and Kotoa latitude observed 19 degrees 18 minutes south thus far the voyage had advanced in a course of uninterrupted prosperity and had been attended with many circumstances equally pleasing and satisfactory a very different scene was now to be experienced a conspiracy had been formed which was to render all our past labor productive only of extreme misery and distress the means had been concerted and prepared with so much secrecy and circumspection that no one circumstance appeared to occasion the smallest suspicion of the impending calamity End of Chapter 12 Chapter 13 of Avoids to the South Sea This Library of Oaks recording is in the public domain Avoids to the South Sea Chapter 13 A Mutiny in the Ship 1789 April Monday 27 We kept near the island Kotoa all the afternoon in hopes that some canoes would come off to the ship but in this I was disappointed the wind being northerly in the evening we steered to the westward to pass to the south of Tofua I gave directions for this course to be continued during the night the master had the first watch the gunner the middle watch and Mr. Christian the morning watch this was the turn of duty for the night Tuesday 28 just before sunrise while I was yet asleep Mr. Christian with the master at arms gunners mate and Thomas Burkett seaman came into my cabin and seizing me tied my hands with a cord behind my back threatening me with instant death if I spoke or made the least noise I however called as loud as I could in hopes of assistance but they had already secured the officers who were not at their party by placing sentinels at their doors there were three men at my cabin door besides the four within Christian had only a cutlass in his hand the others had muskets and bayonets I was hauled out of bed and forced on deck in my shirt suffering great pain from the tightness with which they had tied my hands I demanded the reason of such violence but receive no other answer than abuse for not holding my tongue the master the gunner the surgeon mr. Elphinstone masters mate and Nelson were kept confined below and the four hatchway was guarded by sentinels the boats and the carpenter and also the clerk mr. Samuel were allowed to come upon deck where they saw me standing the bath the mizzen mast with my hands tied behind my back under a guard with Christian at their head the bosson was ordered to hoist the launch out with a threat if he did not do it instantly to take care of himself when the boat was out mr. Hayward and mr. Hallett two of the midshipmen and mr. Samuel were ordered into it I demanded what their intention was in giving this order and endeavored to persuade the people near me not to persist in such acts of violence but it was to no effect hold your tongue sir or you are dead this instant was constantly repeated to me the master by this time had sent to request that he might come on deck which was permitted but he was soon ordered back again to his cabin I continued my endeavors to turn the tide of affairs when Christian changed the cutlass which he had in his hand for a bayonet that was brought to him and holding me with a strong grip by the cord that tied my hands he with many oaths threatened to kill me immediately if I would not be quiet the villains round me had their pieces cocked and bayonets fixed particular people were called on to go into the boat and were hurried over the side once I concluded that with these people I was to be set adrift I therefore made another effort to bring about a change but with no other effect than to be threatened with having my brains blown out the boats and and seamen who were to go in the boat were allowed to collect wine canvas lines sails courtage and eight and twenty gallon cask of water and mr. Samuel got one hundred fifty pounds of bread with a small quantity of rum and wine also a quadrant and compass but he was forbidden on pain of death to touch either map ephemera's book of astronomical observations sextant timekeeper or any of my surveys or drawings the mutineers having forced those of the seamen who they meant to get rid of into the boat Christian directed a dram to be served to each of his own crew I then unhappily saw that nothing could be done to affect the recovery of the ship there was no one to assist me and every endeavor on my part was answered with threats of death the officers were next called upon deck and forced over the side into the boat while I was kept apart from everyone abaffed the mizzen mast Christian armed with a bayonet holding me by the bandage that secured my hands the guard round me had their pieces cocked but on my daring the ungrateful wretches to fire they uncocked them Isaac Martin one of the guards over me I saw had an inclination to assist me and as he fed me with shoddock my lips being quite parched we explained our wishes to each other by our looks but this being observed Martin was removed from me he then attempted to leave the ship for which purpose he got into the boat but with many threats they obliged him to return the armorer Joseph Coleman and two of the carpenters Macintosh and Norman were also kept contrary to their inclination they begged of me after I was a stern in the boat to remember that they had declared they had no hand in the transaction Michael Byrne I am told likewise wanted to leave the ship it is of no moment for me to recount my endeavors to bring back the offenders to a sense of their duty all I could do was by speaking to them in general but it was to no purpose for I was kept securely bound and no one except the guard suffered to come near me to mr. Samuel I am indebted for securing my journals and commission with some material ship papers without these I had nothing to certify what I had done and my honor and character might have been suspected without my possessing a proper document to have defended them all this he did with great resolution though guarded and strictly watched he attempted to save the timekeeper in a box with my surveys drawings and remarks for 15 years past which were numerous when he was hurried away with damn your eyes you're well off to get what you have it appeared to me that Christian was for some time in doubt whether he should keep the carpenter or his mates at length he determined on the ladder and the carpenter was ordered into the boat he was permitted but not without some opposition to take his tool chest much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during the whole business some swore I'll be damned if he does not find his way home if he gets anything with him meaning me and when the carpenter's chest was carrying away damn my eyes he will have a vessel built in a month while others laughed at the helpless situation of the boat being very deep and so little room for those who were in her as for Christian he seemed as if meditating destruction on himself and everyone else I asked for arms but they laughed at me and said I was well acquainted with the people among whom I was going and therefore did not want them for cutlass is however were thrown into the boat after we were veered a stern the officers and men being in the boat they only waited for me of which the master at arms informed Christian who then said come Captain Bly your officers and men are now in the boat and you must go with them if you attempt to make the least resistance you will instantly be put to death and without further ceremony with a tribe of armed ruffians about me I was forced over the side where they untied my hands Bane in the boat we were veered a stern by a rope a few pieces of pork were thrown to us and some clothes also the cutlass as I have already mentioned it was then that the armorer and carpenter called out to me to remember that they had no hand in the transaction after having undergone a great deal of ridicule and being kept some time to make sport for these unfeeling wretches we were at length cast adrift in the open ocean I had with me in the boat the following persons John Friar master Thomas ledward acting surgeon David Nelson botanist William Peckover gunner William Cole Boson William Purcell carpenter William Elphinston master's mate Thomas Hayward John Howlett midshipman John Norton Peter Linklatter quarter masters Lawrence Gleb Lejeux sailmaker John Smith Thomas Hall cooks George Simpson quarter masters mate Robert Tinkler a boy Robert Lamb butcher Mr. Samuel Clark the remained on board the bounty Fletcher Christian masters mate Peter Hayward Edward Young George Stewart midshipman Charles Churchill master at arms John Mills Gunners mate James Morrison Boson's mate Thomas Birket Matthew Quintel John Sumner John Millward William McCoy Henry Hillbrand Michael Brinn William Muspret Alexander Smith John Williams Thomas Ellison Isaac Martin Richard Skinner Matthew Thompson Abel Seaman William Brown Gardner Joseph Coleman armorer Charles Norman Carpenter's mate Thomas McIntosh Carpenter's crew in all 25 hands in the most able men of the ship's company having little or no wind we rode pretty fast towards Defoeia which bore northeast about 10 leagues from us while the ship was in sight she steered to the west northwest but I considered this only as a faint for when we were sent away Huzzah for Otehidi was frequently heard among the mutineers Christian the chief of the mutineers is of a respectable family in the north of England this was the third voyage he had made with me and as I found it necessary to keep my ship's company at three watches I had given him an order to take charge of the third his ability is being thoroughly equal to the task and by this means the master and gunner were not at watch and watch Haywood is also of a respectable family in the north of England and a young man of abilities as well as Christian these two had been objects of my particular regard and attention and I had taken great pains to instruct them having entertained hopes that as professional men they would have become a credit to their country young was well recommended and had the look of an able stout seaman he however fell short of what his appearance promised steward was a young man of credible parents in the orc knees at which place on the return of the resolution from the south seas in 1780 we received so many civilities that on that account only I should gladly have taken him with me but independent of this recommendation he was a seaman and had always borne a good character notwithstanding the roughness with which I was treated the remembrance of past kindness has produced some signs of remorse in christian when they were forcing me out of the ship I asked him if this treatment was a proper return for the many instances he had received of my friendship he appeared disturbed at my question and answered with much emotion that captain is the thing I am in hell I am in hell as soon as I had time to reflect I felt an inward satisfaction which prevented any depression of my spirits conscious of my integrity and anxious solicitude for the good of the service in which I had been engaged I found my mind wonderfully supported and I began to conceive hopes notwithstanding so heavy a calamity that I should one day be able to account to my king and country for the misfortune a few hours before my situation had been particularly flattering I had a ship in the most perfect order and well stored with every necessary both for service and health my early attention to those particulars I had as much as lay in my power provided against any accident in case I could not get through and ever straights as well as against what might befall me and them add to this the plans had been successfully preserved in the most flourishing state so that upon the whole the voyage was two thirds completed and the remaining part to all appearances in a very promising way every person on board being in perfect health to establish which was ever amongst the principal objects of my intention it will very naturally be asked what could be the reason for such a revolt an answer to which I can only conjecture that the mutineers had flattered themselves with the hopes of a more happy life among the otahetians than they could possibly enjoy in England and this joined to some female connections most probably occasion the whole transaction the women at otahete are handsome mild and cheerful in their manners and conversation possessed of great sensibility and have sufficient delicacy to make them admired and beloved the chiefs were so much attached to our people that they rather encouraged their stay among them than otherwise and even made them promises of large possessions under these and many other attendant circumstances equally desirable it is now perhaps not so much to be wondered at though scarcely possible to have been foreseen that a set of sailors most of them void of connections should be led away especially when in addition to such powerful inducements they imagined it in their power to fix themselves in the midst of plenty on one of the finest islands in the world where they need not labor and where the elements of dissipation are beyond anything that can be conceived the utmost however that any commander could have supposed to have happened is that some of the people would have been tempted to desert but if it should be asserted that a commander is to guard against an act of mutiny and piracy in his own ship more than by the common rules of service it is as much to say that he must sleep locked up and when awake be girded with pistols desertions have happened more or less from most of the ships that have been at the society islands but it has always been in the commander's power to make the chiefs return their people the knowledge therefore that it was unsafe to desert perhaps first led mine to consider with what ease so small a ship might be surprised and that so favorable an opportunity would never offer to them again the secrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception 13 of the party who were with me had always lived forward among the semen yet neither they nor the messmates of christian stewart hayward and young had ever observed any circumstances that made them in the least suspect what was going on to such a close planned act of villainy my mind being entirely free from any suspicion it is not wonderful that I fell a sacrifice perhaps if there had been marines on board a sentinel at my cabin door might have prevented it for I slept with the door always open that the officer of the watch might have access to me on all occasions the possibility of such a conspiracy being ever the farthest from my thoughts had their mutiny been occasioned by any grievances either real or imaginary I must have discovered symptoms of their discontent which would have put me on my guard but the case was far otherwise christian in particular I was on the most friendly terms with that very day he was engaged to have dined with me and the preceding night he excused himself from supping with me on the pretense of being unwell for which I felt concerned having no suspicions of his integrity or honor end of chapter 13