 Madami na taluan yung bibili ka series and natuwa naman ako doon. Pero sa totoo lang, yung ibang videos doon medyo pangit yung production quality. Hindi ganong kaganda yung video. Nakakakalito ang pabunong computer kasi yung isang part. Basag yung audio. Medyo, wala ka pa lang alam, bobo ka kasi yun bottleneck, yung build mo bottleneck. Di kaya, di kaya. Paminsan, basag din yung host. So, I guess that's everything and stay safe everyone. We can do better and better has arrived. Ito yung updated, bibili ka series. Kung bibili ka ng computer parts, ane yung kailangan mo malaman para hindi masayang pera mo. Yung point natin sa video na to, pagusapan natin yung computer in a beginner friendly way. So, wala masyadong technical jargon. Timang halimbawa natin, yung medyo simple para madaling intindihin. And mahabat ang video na to, kasi lahat talaga ng parts ng computer pinagusapan natin. So, pwede ka tumalon doon sa specific part na you want more information about. Kasi may timestamps sa tayo sa baba. Yes, may timestamps sa tayo. Progress. Bago noon, may sale yung sponsor natin ng Windows 10 activation code. Use our code HS20 on checkout para magkaroon ng 25% discount. Yung CPU or central processing unit yung tinaturing na brains ng computer. He's the boss. Karamihan ng instructions and commands na kailangan i-process ng computer, pupunta sa CPU. For Windows computers, dalawa lang yung manufacturers ng CPUs, either Intel or AMD. Pero itong general rules na to, applicable sa pareho. Rule number one is socket. Lahat nung CPUs may socket. Every motherboard has a socket. Dapat tugma yung socket ng CPU siya ko ng motherboard para compatible sila. For example, yung CPU na Ryzen 5 5600X from AMD, socket nun AM4. Dapat yung motherboard mo socket AM4 din. Yung CPU na i5-12600K from Intel, socket LGA1700 doon. Yung compatible na motherboard para doon, kailangan socket LGA1700 din. Kung yung nabilin mo yung CPU, walang remedro yan. Hindi mo mapapagana, sayang lang yung nabilin mo yung CPU. To simplify it, iniiisip ko lang na lahat nung sockets, iba-ibang shapes yun. So for example, yung socket AM4 baka triangle, yung socket LGA1700 square. Hindi mo talaga masisiksik yung triangle sa square. Hindi talaga sila tugma. Ganon din yung CPU and motherboard. Kailangan same socket yung CPU and yung motherboard. So general rule ba sa same socket yung CPU and motherboard compatible sila? Pero check mo pa rin kasi paminsan kailangan i-update yung BIOS para compatible yung CPU sa motherboard. Yung BIOS yung basic instructions or yung operating system yung motherboard. Tapos na tayo sa basic rule for CPUs, yung mga susunod na information na to, to help you better decide what CPU is best for you. Una, Gigahertz. Gigahertz is a specification na nakikita mo madala sa CPUs. Measurement siya kung gano ka belis yung isang CPU. So makakarinik ka na itong CPU na to, 3 Gigahertz. Ito 3.4 Gigahertz. Higher number better. So 10 Gigahertz is faster than 5 Gigahertz. Pero tutood lang yun between members of the same family of CPUs. For example yung Ryzen 5 5600X na CPU 4.6 Gigahertz siya. Yung Ryzen 7 5800X 4.7 Gigahertz. Since pareho yung family of CPUs na yun yung 5,000 series ni AMD at mas matas yung Gigahertz ni R7 5800X, masasabi natin na maso belis talaga si R7 5800X compared to the R5 5600X. Pero let's say kung paran natin yung R7 5800X na 4.7 Gigahertz versus the Intel i7-12700K na 5 Gigahertz. Yes, mas matas yung Gigahertz ni i7 pero since hindi sila same family hindi natugma yung Gigahertz nila or you can't say automatically na masabilis si i7 just because na 5 Gigahertz siya compared dun sa 4.7 Gigahertz ni R7 5800X. Yung Gigahertz applicable lang yun to members of the same CPU family. Isa pangsukat kung gano kung belis yung CPU is yung number of cores and threads niya again, higher number better. So for example, yung AMD Ryzen 9 5900X may 12 cores and 24 threads. Yung kapatid niya, AMD Ryzen 9 5950X may 16 cores and 32 threads. So dun pa lang, based on the number of cores and threads, natin na masabilis si Ryzen 9 5900X compared to the Ryzen 9 5900X. Yung cores, actual physical component yun sa CPU. Kung binuksan may CPU at may microscope ka, mabibilang mo talaga ilang physical cores dun sa chip. Yung threads virtual yun, they're like virtual cores and both cores and threads are used for heavy multitasking. Kung marami kang programs na tumatakbo in the background, server functions, heavy multitasking, that's usually what you want to use high core and thread count CPUs for. Pero high cores and threads aren't really useful for single applications, most importantly for gaming. Yung karamihan yung games hindi talaga niya nagagamit yung high core and high thread count. Kaya for gamers, yes, you do see a speed boost using the higher CPUs, pero may cost to performance din yun. Bat kabibilin yung sobrang mahal na CPU na yes, marami nga cores and threads, pero yung performance gain mo lang mga 5%, for example. So nice to have yung high core and high thread, pero kailangan tugma pa rin dun sa specific use case mo. Saan mabag gagamitin yung computer mo? Yung production code for most modern CPUs usually number, isapang number, and then lastly, a letter. If you understand the code, you learn a lot about the CPU. Yung first number, usually 3, 5, 7, or 9 yan. So sa Ryzen, may Ryzen 3, Ryzen 5, 7, and 9. Sa Intel, may i3, i5, i7, i9. Usually yung first number is performance category. So yung 3 and 3 level, 5, mid range, 7 is performance, tapos 9 yung mga siroulong entusias na mahilig magsunog nung pera, yung gusto nung latest and the greatest. Again, though, there are exceptions. For example, usually mas gusto mo yung Ryzen 5, 5, 600X compared to the Ryzen 7, 5, 700G. So even though yung 5, 600X nakalagay r5 versus yung 5, 700G r7, in most situations, you would want the r5, 5, 600X. So general rules lang yung 3, 5, 7, 9. Mahalaga pa rin mag research ng konte kung ano yung bagay and ano yung tugma dun sa use case mo. After the first number comes the generation number, and then after that, how fast siya dun sa CPU family na yun. So for example, Ryzen 9, 5,900X. Ryzen 9, so 9 means yung entusias level. 5 means na 5,000 series siya which is yung pinakalates na AMD currently. Tapos yung 900 differentiates it from the other members nung CPU family kasi may Ryzen 9, 5,950X. So masamilis si Ryzen 9, 5,950X compared dun sa Ryzen 9, 5,900X. Tamap pa rin yung general rule na higher number better. Kano din sa Intel, halimbawa yung i5, 12,500. i5 meaning mid-range CPU, 12 yung generation, so that's the 12th gen Intel. Tapos yung 500, it tells you saan siya na uuhuhulog dun sa CPU family na yun. So compared to a i5, 12,500 versus an i5, 12,600 masamilis si 12,600. Sa dulo nung CPU may letters and yung ibig sabihin yung letters na yun depends on the manufacturer. Yung sa AMD, yung usual na letters na makita mo either X or K. Yung X ibig sabihin overclock na siya out of the box. Pagusapan natin yung overclocking in a little bit. Pero basically yung kailangan mo lang malaman at this point is that wala ka nang kailangan paguhin na settings, may kakalikot ka pa sa motherboard, wala na. Right out of the box, the X version of the AMD CPU is faster than the non-X version. The next letter for AMD is usually G. Kung may G yung CPU nung AMD that means may integrated graphics siya or another term is may APU siya or kung medyo tanders ka na kagaya ko it has onboard graphics. Yung maganda sa APU, hindi mo na kailangan bumilin nung GPU. Medyo mahal kasi yung GPU especially depending on what model that you buy. More on that in the GPU section of this video. So depends sa use case mo kung for work lang, sobrang swag yung APU. Kasi makakamura ka talaga hindi mo na kailangan bumilin nung GPU and for office work on APU is just fine. You can even play some games depending on the APU that you buy. So mahalaga kung bibili ko nung CPU ting na nang muna anong use case mo what will you use the computer mostly for and then from there, anong bagay na CPU. Sa Intel naman, yung karaniwa na letters are K and F. Yung ibig sabihin nung K overclockable siya. Note, hindi pa siya na ko overclock pero unlock siya. You can overclock if you want. So kung F Intel CPU, kailangan mo talaga nung GPU. Okay, anong ba itong overclocking? Basically pinapatakbomong yung CPU nung masmabilis o lampas dun sa manufacturer set speed. Parang koche lang yan, sabi na manufacturer, yung pinakamabilis na kaya nung koche na to 100 km per hour. Pero may kanalikot ka sa makina, big lang kaya nanya 110 km per hour. Ganun lang din yung overclocking. May set speed yung CPU pero since may kanalikot ka, basically may binago ka na settings para mas maraming corriente. You have more energy flowing to the CPU. You can have it run faster than the manufacturer set speed. Yung advantages nung overclocking, libreng performance. Wala kang babayaran para maoverclock yung CPU. May babagoin ka lang na konteng settings. Tapos, ayon, masmabilis na yung CPU mo. It is free extra performance. Yung downsides nung overclocking, it can shorten the lifespan of your CPU. Tapos, maaring maging unstable yung system mo. And then yung sinabi ko, earlier na libreng performance gain, medyo, totoo iyon, medyo hindi. Kasi kung gusto mo talaga mag overclock, dapat maganda yung CPU cooler mo. Tumataas dramatically yung excess heat or yung waste na naging generate yung CPU mo kung naka-overclock ka. So, mahalaga talaga na maganda yung CPU cooler mo. And that costs extra money. Not advisable yung overclocking for beginners, pero maganda rin na, alam mo kung ano yun, para macha-check mo kung gusto mo ba yung sa CPU mo. Bakang ngayon, nagsisimula ka palang, di ka pa comfortable mag-overclock. Pero bibili ka na nung K na CPU. Kasi tingin mo yung the future, 6 months, 1 year down the line, bibili ka nung mas magadang CPU cooler and mas comfortable ka na. Ready ka na mag-experiment sa overclocking. Kaya ayon, depende talaga sa needs nung customer kung anong CPU yung tingin niya bagay sa kanya. Kagayon nung nabangit ko kanina, dalawa lang yung manufacturers of CPU for Windows computers. That's AMD and Intel. Not gonna lie, medyo bulok talaga yung Intel for the past two generations. Yung 10th and 11th generation di na kami nag-stock dito sa shop. Pero sobrang okayin itong current gen nila, yung Intel 12th gen. So maraming fanboys yun nag-away, oh, mas maganda AMD, oh, mas maganda Intel. To be honest, ula kaming pakis hardware sugar, whatever CPU you want, we stock both brands. But so that you can make up your mind, ito yung basic differences between AMD and Intel. So overclocking, all AMD CPUs are overclockable. Sa Intel, yung K lang yung compatible. So general rule sa AMD, pwede mong ioverclock. General rule sa Intel, hindi mo pwede ioverclock. For integrated graphics, baliktad naman. General rule sa AMD, wala siyang integrated graphics. Sa Intel, general rule, merong integrated graphics. Sa reliability, pareho naman silang reliable, to be honest, CPUs rarely break or fail. Of course, posibleng mangyare, pero generally, ibang parts yung sira sa computer. Generally, hindi na sisira yung CPU. Both for Intel and AMD. Lastly, yung differences between the two, support for future upgrades. Natandaan mo yung basic rule natin na sockets. Intel kasi sobrang hilik magpalit nung socket. Cada generation, usually nung Intel CPU nagbabago yung nung socket. For example, yung i5-4690K, i5-4, yung 4th, meaning 4th generation pa siya, yung socket nun is LGA 1150. Let's say yun yung CPU mo, ngayon gusto mo na mag-upgrade sa pinakalates na Intel 12th gen. Yung problema, socket 1150 ka, socket 1150 din motherboard mo. Kasi tandaan mo, yung motherboard na sockets. Yung socket yung Intel for 12th gen is sockets 1700. Hindi pwede na, tatagalin mo lang yung lumang CPU mo, yung i5-4690K, tapos papalitan mo with an Intel 12th gen. Since mag-aiban yung socket nung motherboard mo, yung Intel 12th gen. Yun, Intel likes to do that a lot. Usually, cada generation, nagbabago yung socket. Compared to AMD, usually, hindi nagbabago yung socket ng AMD for several generations. Yung current Ryzen series, Ryzen 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 5 generations of CPUs, same socket lang yung AM4. And really, that's quite incredible. Sobrang hats off to AMD for doing that. Sobrang laking tulong sa customer. Kasi kung bumili ka nung Ryzen 1000 series, pwede mo pa rin gamitin yung motherboard mo, dito sa latest na Ryzen 5000, socket AM4 parin sila. Check mo lang kung may compatible na BIOS for that motherboard kasi medyo lumahan na siya. But nung sa socket, wala kang problema. So laking tulong na kung gusto mo magbago nung CPU, kung gusto mo mag-upgrade, papalitan mo lang yung CPU, kasi same pa rin naman yung socket nung newer CPU tsaka yung lumamong motherboard. Although for the next generation Ryzen CPUs, yung 7000 series, magabago na yung socket nung AMD. Pero hopefully, ituloy nila yung practice of keeping the same socket for several generations. Ang pinaka matunog at pinaka sikat na PC part INGPU o yung graphics processing unit o yung tinatawag na graphics card. Bag... Jesus Christ! Pero teka, kailangan mo ba talaga nung graphics card? Actually, depending on your workflow or your use case, baka hindi naman. Kung pang work lang, for surfing, for browsing, hindi mo na kailangan nung graphics card. Okay ka na sa APU. Referred to the previous section on CPUs. For those kinds of use cases, you'd be fine. Ta sobrang laki nung savings mo, kasi mahal talaga yung GPU. Kahit for video editing, paminsan hindi naman talaga kailangan nung graphics card. Depending on the program and depending on the version, it might not even be using your graphics card kapag nag-edit ka. Karamihan kasi nung libreng version nung editing programs, dindi niya ginagamit yung graphics card. Pero yung GPU, mahal talaga sa gaming. It's the number one factor in determining ganung kabilis yung game mo. Mahalaga rin siya sa crypto mining, pero ibang video na yun, you can see that one above. Yung unang question na tinatanong palagi nung mga tao tungkol sa GPU. Compatible ba siya? Tapos, to be honest, hindi ko maintindihan bakit yun yung tanong. Kasi lahat naman ng modern GPUs ngayon, compatible naman sa modern systems. Basta may libreng PCIe slot ka, solve ka na. Pasok malang yung GPU and you'll be good to go. And really, yung availability nung PCIe slot, hindi naman compatibility issue talaga yun. Isipid mo, pumunta ka nung appliance center, bumali ka nung microwave and nantinan mo yung nagbabenta, ay compatible ba to? Basta may socket ka sa bahay, compatible naman yung microwave, ganun din yung GPU. Basta may libreng PCIe slot ka, pasok mo lang yun and you're good to go. Two things, though, you should watch out for are the length of the card and yung power connectors. Siguraduhin mo na yung socket nung card, mapapasok mo physically into your case. Como naman to measurement na to? Mabilis mo makita to sa specifications nung brand. Yung pina kamahabang cards ngayon, roughly around 325 mm, pero sobrang high-end na nun. Check mo lang yung length ng GPU mo, tapos, compare mo rin dun sa specs nung case mo. Usually na kalagay rin naman yun, GPU max clearance. Yun, compare mo lang yung dalawang numbers na yun, GPU length and GPU clearance nung case para siguraduhin na mapapasok mo yung GPU sa loob nung PC mo. Second power connectors. Although hindi ito usually problem kung branded naman yung PSU mo, generally yung power connectors nakasama dun, yun naman keilangan mo sa GPU. Again, this usually only crops up on the very high-end cards kasi yung mga high-end na 3,000 series ngayon ni NVIDIA, pa minsan keilangan nung 3 8-pin connectors. Hindi pag anong kadaming PSU nag-ship na kasama yung parang adapter or yung 3 8-pin connectors na yun, you might need to buy an adapter depending on your card. Pero sobrang behira lang nun, usually kung branded PSU ka, it'll be good with any GPU. But even again, these two size and power connectors aren't really about compatibility. Sa tingin ko, pag magtatanong yung customer kung compatible, yung tinatanong talaga niya kung bottleneck. Magkaiba kasi yun, yung compatibility, sinasagot niya kung gagana bat yung card sa system mo. Yung bottleneck is about efficiency. Is it the best performing card for your system? Sa anong ba talaga yung bottleneck? Para maunawa natin, gumamit tayo ng sports metaphor. Sa computer, gusto mo yung CPU and GPU mo parang mga elite ping pong players. So sobrang belis nung return ng bola o yung data, pamisan hindi mo na makikita. Yun yung ideal system, walang component na nagiihintay sa isa pang component. So sa metaphor na yun, yung isang ping pong player si CPU, yung isang player yung GPU, tapos yung bola yung data, that's the ideal system. Yung ayam mo sa CPU and GPU kung para silang runner sa relay race. Yung isang runner, let's say yun yung GPU, sobrang atat na atat na siya, readying ready na siya umarangkada, readying ready na siya tumakbo. Yung problema, hinihintay pa niya yung CPU. Kasi yung CPU na kahawak dun sa baton o yung pinapasahan yung mga runners, dito sa metaphor natin yun yung data. So si GPU, readying ready na tumakbo, pero hinihintay pa niya yung CPU, yung data na kay CPU pa. Yan yung bottleneck system. Sa unang halimbawa ako, si GPU yung nagiihintay, pero posible rin naman na si CPU yung nagiihintay. Either of those two components, usually yun yung nagiihintay sa set isa. So yung pinaka okay, parang pingpong, sobrang bilis nung pasanong data. Yung hindi okay, yung bottleneck na system, nagiihintay yung isang component para dun sa data nagaling sa isa pang component. Either way, kung nagiihintay si CPU for GPU or si GPU nagiihintay para sa CPU, hindi yung ideal system. Pero bakit yun atawag na bottleneck? Yung sookkat kasi o yung huggis nung bote, mahaba yung base niya. So that's the potential speed or performance of the part. Pero nagdanaro down siya sa neck nung bote. Dun tayo nagkakaproblema. Hindi mo magamit yung buong speed o yung kumbaga yung, kita maraman yung laki nung bote, pero dun siya lumili it dun sa pinaka leeg nung bote. You can't pour everything out because nag-co-constrict nalilimit dun sa leeg nung bote. Naka-bottleneck yung tawag. Sobrang belis nung GPU mo, pero nalilimit yung performance niya kasi hintay pa niya yung isapang component, naka-bottleneck yung performance niya. Last metaphor to imagine bottlenecking, parang puso mo yan. Naka-bottleneck yung puso mo, kung feeling mo, andami mo pwede yung imahal na ipakita sa mundoon. Andami mo yung damdamin, damdamin mo yung emotion. Pero nasaktan ka na dati, so kunti lang pinapakita mo. Naka-bottleneck puso mo. And that's also not an efficient system. Let go of the past and love again. Tagalin mo yung bottleneck sa puso mo. Pero bago ka magkaboy friend or girlfriend, siguraduhin mo na belin mo yung RTX 3080 na yan. Kasi kung hindi, siguro do na bawal na yun. Yung tawag doon, wallet bottleneck. Hindi ideal yung bottleneck so everybody says avoid it. Kahit sobrang bago mo palang sa computer, may nagpayo na sayo na, wag mo belin yan, kasi bottleneck, bottleneck, bottleneck. Hi! Ako na magsasabi sayo, unpopular opinion that yes, bottleneck is a thing, but it's not really a thing that you need to obsess over. Medyo blown out of proportion siya, kasi it's advice na, madaling magsabe and parang napak-expert mo, pagsinabi mo na, oh eh, di po eh, diyan kasi bottleneck yan. So it sounds good, but it doesn't really offer helpful or useful advice. Imposible naman talaga na magka 100% efficient between CPU and GPU. So na yung bottleneck depende yun sa game and even yung settings ng game. Maari na yung same system nakab bottleneck sa isang game at a certain setting, tapos palitan mo lang yung resolution ng game, okay na, yung yun siya bottleneck or nakab bottleneck siya sa isang game, pero pagload mo nang isa pang game, okay naman siya dun. So pabago-bago yung performance ng system based on the settings of that program. So panang mong masasabi na bottleneck yan 100% of the time, e pabago-bago ngayun, pinapatakbun mo sa computer. Maari na bottleneck siya sa isang game, pero minimal naman yung bottleneck sa isa pang game, tapos same system yun. Second for gaming, yung GPU talaga yung workhorse or siya talaga yung nagpaprosess nung karamihan ng data. Balik tayo dun sa metaphor nung relay runners. Para sa gaming, yung GPU yung tumatakbo ng 95% of the course. Yung CPU, kumbaga parang 5% lang yun. Sobrang mahalaga yung GPU para sa gaming, pero kung mabagal yung CPU mo at paminsan hinihintay nung GPU yung CPU, okay lang yun. Because 95% of the time, it's really the GPU who will be running things. So ang haba-haba na nung segment nato, yung gusto mo lang naman malaman what GPU should you buy? Short answer, the most expensive that you can afford. Yun lang talaga yun. Yung long answer, dependerin yun sa games na linalaro mo. Depende din ko ano resolution yung gusto mo. Yung ibang graphics cards, mas bagay sa 1080p gaming, yung ibang graphics cards, bumibilis lang talaga for 2K gaming for 1440p. So it can really help your budget if you can determine like, ano ba yung usual na resolution na ginagamit mo and what games you play? Kasi yung ibang games, optimize naman sila or luma na sila na hindi naman sila ganoon ka GPU intensive ngayon. Like CS, Dota 2, Valorant, yun, medyo sikat yung mga games na yun na hindi naman kailangan sobrang bilis na graphics card. So what GPU should you buy? Long answer, it depends on what games you play and on what settings you will play them on. Pero yung mahalaga, aside from the graphics card, don't forget yung monitor. So bibilikan yung mahal na graphics card para maka 165 frames per second ka. Sobrang bilis na yun, sobrang smooth nung gameplay. Kaya akang ababili yung GPU para sobrang ganoon resolution at sobrang bilis nung frames per second mo. Yung problema, yung monitor mo 75Hz lang yung kaya. So para saan pa ba yung sobrang bilis mo na GPU? Hindi mo naman yung nakikita sa monitor, kasi yung monitor yung mag-didisplay or yung mag-output nung data na pre-noses nung GPU mo. Yes, sobrang bilis na nung GPU mo, pero kung mabagan naman yung pag-display nung monitor mo, ganun lang din, hindi mo nakikita, hindi mo na appreciate, hindi mo mawararam daman yung sobrang bilis nung GPU. So if you're buying a high-end gaming system, be sure to get a good monitor as well. More information on that in this description above. Nabagit ko nga sa simula na nandami na namin ginawa na bibilay ka series videos, covering all of the parts, and a lot of the information in those old videos is still good. De, sige, baka mainis ka pa sa aking yung gusto malang talaga malaman what card should you buy? So para sa Windows, may dalawa naman na GPU manufacturers ngayon, yung AMD or yung NVIDIA. Yung Intel, lalabas this year ko no, nung graphics card nila. As of the shooting of this video, March 2022, wala pa yung GPUs So between AMD and NVIDIA, sila lang nag-de-design nung chips and then they license those chips to different brands. Kiyan dami yung makikita na brands na nagbabenta nung graphics cards. So may Gigabyte 3060, MSI 3060, Palit 3060, et cetera. Kasi dina-license lang nila yung chip na yun from NVIDIA or from AMD and then they put custom touches, most especially dun sa cooling system na ginagamit nila for that card. Pero lahat yun, same chip. When you see a Palit 3060 versus a Gigabyte 3060, that is still the same 3060 na galing sa NVIDIA. 6700 XT from AMD, lahat yung 6700 XT on the market, those are all the same chips. Nagbabago lang sila sa cooling performance, nagbabago lang sila paminsent sa onboard memory, but the core chip is all the same. So alin dun dapat kulin mo? AMD or NVIDIA GPU. Very brand focused tayo sa Pinas and usually NVIDIA is really top of mind. In fair na sa NVIDIA, mas stable yung drivers nila, mas user friendly sila, mas matunog sila, mas marami talagang nagahanap for NVIDIA cards. Yung AMD cards, roughly, pareho naman yung performance, usually mas mura sila, pero yun nga, medyo unstable sila, hindi sila ganun ka user friendly. We would only recommend them for more advanced users na sanay mag update nung drivers or mag rollback nung drivers or yung comfortable mag underworld kasi paminsan talaga medyo wonky yung AMD cards. Dito sa hardware sugar, hindi naman ko yung peaky. We stock both NVIDIA or AMD. So dependil lang talagay yung sa customer, ano yung gusto nila and ano yung bagay para sa use case nila. Pero all of that being said, ako personally, naka RTX 3080. Break mo na tayo sa hardware kasi baliwala lang lahat ng hardware mo kung wala kang OS. Free to download naman yung Windows, but it has a really annoying watermark. So most of our customers ask us to activate Windows for them. Yung go-to natin provider for Windows activation keys is CD key offer. And may ongoing sale sila lang ayon. Links to the Windows 10 activation key are in the video description. Go to the product page, add to cart. Atin natin lang pero may discount code kami, HS20. Pop in the code, get the discount. Usual payment options personally gamit ko PayPal dito. Once payment is made, you can access the code through your dashboard. Pop in the code, go to activate Windows on your desktop and paste the code. Wala pang 5 minutes, finished. May legit, working CD key ka na. If you need Microsoft Office, meronin sila at magana rin yung code namin to get a discount. Kung yung GPU, yung pinakasikat na PC component, yung pinaka-unterrated yung PSU, pero mas mahalaga pa yung PSU sa GPU. Kasi kung wala kang PSU, hindi talaga tatak mo computer mo. Hindi siya magoon. Compared sa GPU, depending on your system, mahari pa yan magboot kung walang GPU. If you're confused, hulik kita, limong pinanod yung CPU section yung video na to, balik ka dun and commit mo yung information na yan sa long term information storage mo. Long term storage, hindi RAM. For those who have heard of PSU, usually yung unan tanong is true rated or 80 plus. True rated is meaningless. Kuno, ibig sabihin yung true rated. Let's say, 650W na true rated. Siya na sabihin yung true rated na yun. Kaya talaga na maoutput ng PSU na yun, 650W. But it's meaningless kasi hindi yung independently verified. Parang kusinero yan. Siya na sabihin yung magaling siya magluto. Syempre sa sabihin niya yun. Siya yung nagluto nung pagkain, di ba? Pero naysay, may kaibikan ka. Siya nagsabi na, oh, natikman ko yung pagkain na yan. Masarap talaga yan. Magaling talaga yan magluto. Mas maniniwala ka sa kibigan mo kasi hindi siya bayas. Third party stores siya. And yun yung 80 plus. Third party certifications siya para sa PSUs. Hindi yung brand, hindi yung manufacturer yun nagsasabi na 80 plus yung PSU namin. Pinapatesting nila yun para yung ISO certified. There's an outside organization that sets the standards and sets the tests required for 80 plus verification. So, yun true rated pa di yung 80 plus, isibin mo na lang na yun true rated siya naman nagsosabi nung yun nagbabenta sa yun. Yung 80 plus, yun certification na yun, galing sa third party, wala silang pake kung anong brand bilin mo, wala silang pake kung anong PSU bilin mo. Basta tinesting nila yun, ito yung standards para makamit yung 80 plus certification at nakamit nung PSU na yun. Now, 80 plus is just a question of efficiency. The very basic 80 plus PSUs delivers 80% efficiency at 20% 50% and 100% load. Yung 80 plus, may ibaibang level sa classification yun, yung pinakamababa is yung 80 plus white or yung basic 80 plus, then bronze, silver, gold, platinum and then titanium. Titanium pinakamataas, white yung pinakamababa. Strictly speaking, tungkol lang sa efficiency yung 80 plus. Pero naging de facto standard na rin siya for reliability. Kasi kung isipin mo para makamit mo yung mas mataas na efficiency rating na yun, kailangan mas maganda yung components nung PSU mo, mas maganda yung design, mas quality yung components. So inisip nung mga tao na pinaka-efficient yung 80 plus titanium, siguro siya na rin yung pinaka-reliable, kasi kailang mo ng quality para makamit yung efficiency rating na yun. And that's true most of the time. Most of the time, maaringan na mas matagal, mas mahaba yung lifespan nung 80 plus bronze PSU compared to an 80 plus platinum CPU. Pero overall, in general, the higher the 80 plus rating, mas maasahan mo yung PSU. Usually for enthusiasts or performance PCs na for gaming or for editing, 80 plus gold yung kinakuha and then 650 watts to 850 watts. Very brand focused kasi yung PSUs, usually yung tinaturing na top tier na brands are Corsair, C-Sonic, FSP and EVGA. But we also do carry a lot of other brands in the shop na basic experience namin. Maganda rin naman, very reliable sila. And these brands are usually cheaper than the top tier. Some of those brands are Deep Cool and Cooler Master. Mas mura kaiso sa top tier, pero maasahan mo rin yung reliability and performance nila. Kailangan ba talaga na branded yung PSU? Yung karaniwan na advice, yes. Pero actually, I won't be giving the general advice. Sobrang mura kasi nung generic PSUs. Yun yung mga unbranded na paminsan nakabandan na yung sa case. And actually okay naman yung depending on what you need the computer for. Kung para sa work lang, para sa school, para sa surfing, okay naman yung generic PSU. Hindi siya mas stress. Hindi naman kasi performance yung computer na yun. And the price is a lot cheaper than branded PSUs. So for light usage computers, okay na yung generic. Tatagal naman yun. But definitely for performance, for gaming, for editing, for servers, anything that's enthusiast level, mag-branded PSU ka na. Nung question. And the general advice really is don't skimp on your PSU. Pwede ka magbarat sa ebang components ng computer mo, pero pagdating sa PSU, generally best by better quality. Unless your use case is very light usage. Pero bottom line, wag ka talagang maniwala sa true rated na yan. Kising. Kita, kita tulog ka. Storage ba ang RAM? Hindi. But does it store data? Yes, for a short time. Yun yung pao na yung pagaiba niya dun sa storage. Shorter memory lang yung RAM. Palaging pabago-bago yung contents niya at nawawala yun lahat pagpinatay mo yung computer. Para siya yung shorter memory nung computer. Isipin mo nung student ka, sa kanimbukasan, may test ka. So the night before, cram ka nung cram. Lat nung kaya magpasok mo yun sa utak mo data, facts, equations, et cetera, pinapasok mo dun. The next day after the test, kalimutan mo na yan lahat. Nina-importante, nina-mahalaga. Ganon din yung RAM. Only the most recently executed instructions are stored in RAM. Kung may bagong dumating na instructions, yan yung isa store. Kalimutan nanya yung dating data. Pero ano pala silbin yung RAM kung short term lang pala siya? Naisib nungap PC designers long long ago na malamang yung data na most recently executed, kailangan mo ulit yun very very soon. Instead of having to find that data in your very large hard drive or SSD, hinahanap lang niya sa RAM. Masabilis anapin kasi sobrang late nung capacity nung RAM compared to storage. And usually, masabilis yung data transfer rates din nung RAM. Kaya bumibilis yung computer mo, the more RAM you have. Because the more recently executed instructions it can store, masabilis niya hinapin. Most computers nowadays may tatlong types of RAM. Ayong tatlong uri nung RAM, DDR3, DDR4, and DDR5. Medyo luma na talaga yung DDR3. So makikita mo to sa maslumang mga computer. Yung DDR4, yun yung pinaka mainstream na RAM ngayon. If you bought a PC within the last four years or so, chances are good na DDR4 yung gamit mo. Yung DDR5, yung pinaka latest na RAM, sobrang konti palang na systems compatible dito. As of the time of this filming, Intel 12 Gen palang yung system na compatible sa DDR5 RAM. Mahalaga na alamin mo yung type of RAM na ginagamit yung computer mo kasi hindi yung compatible. Let's say DDR4 yung computer mo, tapos DDR3 nabilin mo, hindi mo yung magamit, hindi mo yung masaksaks yung DDR3 sa slot ng DDR4. So lahat yan magkaiba. Kung yung motherboard mo ginagamit niya DDR4 and DDR4 lang talaga pwede bilin mo. Sobrang mahal nung DDR5 RAM na to, mas mahal pa siya compared dito sa motherboard na to. Crazy. Size. Very broadly yung mga consumer PCs ngayon may 4 to 64 GB of RAM. Ano yung kailangan mo? For most PCs, weather for work, for gaming, for streaming, for editing, for mainstream PCs, we usually just recommend 16 GB of RAM. That's already very good for the most common applications. We only recommend 32 GB kung nag-heavy editing ka, heavy streaming, or some other function na hindi pang karaniwan. Some of our customers have reported na mas gumaganda yung gaming nila sa 32 GB, pero price to performance yung 16 GB pa rin talaga yung sweet spot. Of course, more is better kung afford mo yung 32 GB, then why not? Pero no need to go overboard para doblihin mo yung RAM from 16 to 32. 16 GB is very good even for a mid-range to high-end system. Yung technical term para sa RAM sticks dims. So how many dims should you get? Usually naka-package ka sa yung RAM in packs of one stick, two sticks, or four sticks. Yung bilin mo yung two sticks. Tiran natin. So let's say may option ka, pareho lang naman yung presyo. One stick of 8 GB versus two sticks of four. So same price, same capacity, pareho naman sila 8 GB. Pero pilihin mo yung two sticks of four. Dun kasi sa two sticks, ma-enable mo yung dual channel memory function yung motherboard mo. Nakuogat kasi to sa system architecture or some motherboard design. Pero basically yung dual channel memory yung ginagawa niya, imis na one highway for transfer of data, naging two, dual channel, two highways for transfer of data. Mas mong ibilis talaga yung rate of transfer between the RAM and the CPU, kasi dalawa na yung pathways na nadaanan yung data. Hindi mo to makuha kung single stick of RAM lang bilin mo. So one x8, one stick of 8 GB RAM versus two x4 which is four and four or dalawang sticks of four GB. Pareho naman sila 8 GB but with the two sticks of four, you can enable dual channel memory sa RAM mo. Libre yung dual channel, most motherboards if not 99 or basically all of the motherboards now support dual channel. Yung kailangan mo lang at least two sticks of RAM. Kaya masulit talaga, imis na pilihin mo yung RAM to go with the two sticks. Speed or frequency, gana baka bilis dapat yung RAM mo? Yung speed nung RAM na kalagayin sa megahertz usually na kihita mo yung sa spec sheet nung RAM, let's say Corsair LPX to X8 3200 megahertz or G-Skill Trident Z Neo 3600 megahertz. Higher number better dito. So 3600 megahertz is faster than 3200 megahertz. Roughly, yung mga high-end PCs ngayon abot na yung na 4000 or kahit pataas on the latest Intel 12th gen PCs. So what's a good speed to get? To be honest, there's no need to go crazy again mga 3200 megahertz okay na yung for most rigs these days. Price to performance 3200 megahertz to 3600 megahertz is the sweet spot. Yung yung optimal speed for the price. In some instances, actually makakasamapas at performance nung PC mo, kung bumili ka nung sobrang bilis na RAM, especially dun sa Ryzen or AMD computers kasi yung core clock nila naga out of sync dun sa sobrang bilis nung RAM. And instead of improving performance, it actually hurts performance. So no need to obsess about super high RAM speeds, 3200, 3600 megahertz is fast enough, is very good for most modern builds. Baka rin sayang kung bumili ka nung sobrang bilis nung RAM, kasi yung speed RAM nakasalalay sa motherboard mo. Let's say bumili ka nung 4000 megahertz ng RAM. Yes, sobrang bilis. Yung problema, yung motherboard mo kompatibo lang siya upto 3200 megahertz. Let's say DDR4 naman yung motherboard mo DDR4 din yung nabilimong RAM pero tatakbo lang siya at 3200 megahertz. Sayang lang yung genastos mo para makabilin nung mabilis na RAM na 4000 megahertz. Pero yung mobo mo pala, hanggang 3200 lang, hanggang dun ka lang sa pinakamabilis na kaya nung motherboard mo. Yung last aspect na usually tinating na nang sa RAM ay yung CL timings. So let's go back again to a usual RAM, Corsair LPX 2x8, 2x8 yung capacity of the RAM. So sinasabi nyan dun na 2 sticks of 8 gigabytes each, so total nya 16. Corsair LPX 2x8 3600 megahertz that's the speed or frequency of the RAM tapo CL 16, 18, 25. Yung mga CL numbers na yun refer to how quickly the RAM can access the data na hinahanat nung CPU. The first number means it takes 16 RAM cycles bago mahanat nung RAM yung hinahanat na data at maoutput niya sa CPU. Lower number better. The lower the number the less time na nagiiintay si CPU dun sa instruction sa kailangan niya. Para mabilis usually for CL timings tinating nang yung first number because all of the other numbers generally follow the trend of that first number. Let's say CL 16, medyo mababa na yun that's a good CL timing. Lahat nung sumusunod na CL timings medyo mababa na din. Yung nakikita natin nga yun sa RAM for DDR4 is usually around CL 18. Anything below CL 18 is faster than the average yung mga CL 16, yun mabilis yun na RAM, good CL timing yun. But again, no need to overspend bago masyadong problemahin na kung ba talaga CL 16, mag-ipon pa ba ako? Yes, there is a performance increase, but for real world applications, you know only the most discerning peasy enthusiast will be able to feel the difference between CL 16 and CL 18. Bottom line dito sa RAM, no need to overspend. Madali kasi maglatch on dun sa mga specs and then 3200 ang mababa na manun. Gusto ko 4000, 4200 mega hertz. CL 18 masyadong matas yan, gusto ko CL 16. Yes, of course, it's nice to have faster frequency or mega hertz. Yes, mas magandarin kung mas mababa yung CL timings mo. But the difference in real world applications is not that big. Surprise to performance, no need to overspend. Malikan ng 2x8, 3200 mega hertz. CL 18. Ok na ok na yun. Lesson natin for the day class, storage. Ang analogy natin sa RAM, yan yung short term memory ng computer, yung storage yung long term. Iti mga hindi madapat kalimutan, birthday ni Macy. Favorite food ng girlfriend mo? Birthday ni Panganay. Or kung san mo tinago yung USB, kung san nakalagay yung work files mo. Storage comes in two types, HDDs or SSDs. HDDs or hard disk drives. Ito yung mga nakasanayan natin. Pinapasok yung or sinasave yung data sa isang moving plate. Para mabasa ulit yung data na yan, umiikot yung plate na yun. Very, very, very fast every minute para mahanap yung data na re-ne-request ng computer. So hard drives are older technology, mas maingay sila at mas mabagal yung speed nila. Pero mas mura sila kumpara sa mga SSD. Yung mga SSD, parang USB flash drive lang yan basically. No moving parts and the data is saved on chips. SSDs are quieter, much faster and usually mas mahal kumpara sa mga hard drives. Pero hindi na rin sila ganun ka new technology they've been around for a while. So yung may mga 240GB SSDs na dito sa shop 1,700 pesos nalang kahit anong purpose yung computer mo whether for work or for play kahit budget rig or sobrang high end pala ginamin sinasabi get yourself an SSD. Sobrang bilis kasi nung speed ng SSD kumpara sa hard drive. Mararabdaman mo talaga yung different sa quality of life mo sa pagboot up nung OS. You put your OS on an SSD sobrang bilis nung boot up time niya compared dun sa hard drive. These are the kind of things we really push for sa shop na yung mga upgrades or yung mga parts na pinipili mo na mararabdaman talaga ni user na ahosulit to. Tapos yung nga, di naman ganun ka mura 1,700 for 240GB SSD. That's the bare minimum we would recommend for any build. Sulit na sulit kung bumalik ka nung SSD. Actually, for most builds, we recommend both. Bumalik ka nung SSD for your OS and kung medyo may budget, kumuha ka na rin nung medyo malaking SSD 1TB or so para katabi nung OS, lagay mo na nandun yung mga programs. Pag atapos, may SSD ka, bumalik ka rin nung hard drive. Dun mo itambak yung mga files mo. Kasi price to capacity, mas magadap pa rin yung hard drive. Kumbaga mas mura yung 1TB hard drive kumpara dun sa 1TB SSD. Pero for files lang naman, di maraman kailangan yung mabilis na speed nung SSD. Ok na siya sa hard drive. Again, yung din yung philosophy namin when picking PC parts, para saan ba siya? And makamura ba tayo kung oh, di naman siya ganun ka belis pero sakto, ok lang naman dun sa kailangan ko. Hard drives are perfect for simple file storage. Hulin na sa SSD, SATA and NVMe. NVMe is faster. It's the fastest type of storage you can have right now for a PC. Tapos, direct yung nakakabit sa motherboard. Yung SATA SSD, yes nakakabit rin sa motherboard, pero via cable. Yung NVMe, which uses a different size factor, it's M.2. Nakasaksak yung direct yung sa motherboard. Wala na mga cables, cables, direct yung na siya sa motherboard. So an M.2 NVMe SSD is basically the fastest gun in the west right now for storage. Ano dapat kunin mo yung SATA SSD or yung M.2 NVMe SSD? Personally, for me, yes, magsumilis nga yung M.2 NVMe. Pero in real world applications na gigaming ka, mararanda mo ba yung difference? Very unlikely. So in my personal system, naka M.2 NVMe ako for OS and programs, minisim ko, sigay, but for all of my games, naka SATA SSD pa rin siya. Bottom line, yung pinakamhalaga, bumalikin yung SSD. Kahit yung SATA SSD lang, sobrang okay na yun, sobrang belis nung data transfer rate nun. M.2 NVMe is nice to have, but not necessary, depending if you have other priorities for your system. Finally, sa storage, may bat ebang sizes sila. Sizes, I mean yung physical sizes nung components. For hard drives, usually 3.5 inches yan, sodo may mga hard drives na 2.5 inches. Mahalagato kasi connected to sa compatibility nung case. Yung cases may limited space for hard drives. Hindi kaya na, ako sigay, dagdag lang tayo nung dagdag ng hard drive. 5 hard drives, 10 hard drive. Most cases now, max lang 2-3 drive base or 2-3 areas in the case where you can put a 3.5 inch hard drive. Yung SATA SSDs, usually 2.5 inches yun. Ganon din yun, kailangan may check yung case, ilang drive base, yung capacity niya for 3.5 inch and 2.5 inch drives. Yung m.2 na nang magkit ko kanina, sobrang liit lang nung compared to SATA SSD and hard drives. Parang ram lang yun, derecho na nang nakakabit sa motherboard. Most motherboards have capacity for 2 m.2 SSDs. Although, for the performance minded, isalang doon yung pinakamabilis, kasi isalang doon yung usually naka derecho sa CPU. Most motherboards, yung design nila, yung isang m.2 slot, may direct connection to the CPU to simplify things. Masubilis yung data transfer. So for m.2s, in general, most mobos, kahit yung ITX, may 2 slots for m.2s, pero isalang doon yung pinakamabilis. So you don't want to design your storage accordingly, based on your needs and based on the budget. A big factor of the case is the aesthetic. Although, kailangan din tutukan para siguroduhin na compatible yung case sa mga components mo. For mainstream cases, may tatlong sizes, ITX, MATX, and ATX. Yung dapat lang tandaan, pareho dapat yung size ng MOBO yung size ng case. So yung ITX MOBO papasok sa ITX case, MATX MOBO into an MATX case, and ATX MOBO in an ATX case. Hindi naman na ipasok yung MATX MOBO into an ATX case. Walang problema yung sa performance. Pero ibang tao, ayon niling aesthetic na medyo malit yung MOBO, tas medyo malaki yung case. Marami kang empty space sa loob ng case mo kung ginawam yung. Pero puwede naman. So generally, the size of your case determines the size of your motherboard. Usually, nakakaproblema yung mga tao sa CPU cooler and sa GPU. Ano tayin nyo? Papahagisko itong 3080Ti? Agisko ito sa inyore. Yung GPU, kailangan mo i-check ganung kahaba siya. Most of the very high-end GPUs now like 3070, pataas, mga puwapalo yan around 310-330mm. Yung length yung mahalagang dimension. So check may yung GPU clearance dun sa site of your case manufacturer. Palagi naman nakalagay dun anong max clearance for length for GPU. So let's say if your card is 315mm long tapos yung kailang nung case mo ng 300mm, kelaan mo nung bagong case. Hindi talaga kakasya yung GPU mo. Sa CPU cooler na air-cooling, usually, height yung mahalagang factor. So the big boy cooler such as Be Quiet's Dark Rock Pro 4 or Noctua's NHD 15 or Deep Cool's AS500+, yun usually, mga tankad nila is around 163mm. Ganon din yung spec sheet sa cases nang kalagay din dun anong max CPU cooler height na pwede sa case na yun. May video din kami explaining how to quickly check kung kasya ba yung CPU air-cooler dun sa case na gusto mo. Paro sa AI o water coolers, yung mahalagating nan kung anong size na radiator yung kakasya sa case. Most AIOs are either 120, 240, or 360mm. And again, nakalagay naman dun sa spec sheet nung case manufacturer kung anong size nung radiator kakasya sa case and kung anong location, usually, sa harap yan or sa top. Don't buy a 360mm AIO kung 240mm rad lang yung kasya sa case. And finally, last to clearance, usually yung karamehan o cases na yun, 2.5 inch drive base lang yung available. So 2 lang yung pwede mo yung ilagay na 3.5 inch hard drives. Pero ibang customers namin yun, andaming drives either because of their work or marami lang personal files. So yung ibang nagkahanap nung case na kaya 4 drives, 5 drives and to be honest, medyo mahirap makahanap nga yun nung ganun. If you do need additional drive base space, check mo yun sa case mo. Baka maging issue yun later on if you want to add drives tapos wala ka na palang drive space dun sa loob nung case. Tung ko naman sa front panel, personally hindi ako piki sa IO options nung front panel, pero may ibang customers na mahalaga talaga sa kanila na may USB-C or some other type of port on the front panel. Kung ganun din yung situation mo, kailang mo talaga i-check kasi pa iba-iba yung IO options and ano ba yung nan dito sa front panels depending on the case. Pero tandaan mo lang na may IO options din dito sa likod dung motherboard. Di ka lang stock dito kung ano bang available sa front panel, usually madami pang ibang options dito sa likod nung case. Yung number one na tinitig na nunga enthusiast sa case is kamusta ba yung air flow niya? Or kung marami ba siyang vent sa harap or other intake options para humigop siya nung malamig na hangin galing sa labas, papasok niya sa case, magsasurculate siya dun sa magadang air flow and then iboobogan niya labas via exhaust. Usually yung cases na may magadang air flow, nakamesyon, or maraming vents, kasi nagahanap ka talaga nung paraan para makapasok yung cold air para malabas mo yung mainit na hangin. Isang halimbawa nito yung fractal design torrent. So sikata sikat yung dahil sobrang ganda nung air flow niya. Daming intake options, pasok yung hangin, daming exhaust options. Pero hindi ibig sabihin na kung medyo alanganin ka sa air flow, pangit ka agad yung case book. Isang halimbawa nito yung NGXT H510 Elite. Sobrang ganda nung case na yun. Ganda nung ARGB fan sa harap and kita mo yung ARGB fans kasi all front yung glass panel niya. Pero since all glass siya, wala naman siyang intake options. Wala nang mapasukan yung hangin paloob. The 510 Elite is a very popular case, pero yung mga PC enthusiasts medyo look down sila don't. Kasi hindi maganda yung air flow. Although we've sold a lot in the shop and none of the customers have ever complained na luto yung mga components nila dahil medyo sub-bar yung air flow nung 510 Elite. So medyo trade-off talaga siya paminsan between aesthetics and air flow and it's up to you kung san ka pupuesto, which one is more important to you. Usually pag-gipit sa budget yung case yung natatamaan. And it's true you can find budget cases na may kasama ng case fans at may kasama na rin yung mga PSUs. Although we don't really recommend cases with PSUs kasi usually generic PSUs yun. And if you remember from the PSU segment of this video, hindi yung okay for performance activities like gaming or streaming or editing. Although may mga ibang premium cases naman na kasama yung PSUs tapos okay. So there's the Inwin A1 Prime or the Coonermaster NR200P. So generally, skip yung mga cases na kasama yung PSUs. Although may mga good cases naman na relatively affordable na may kasama ng stock case fans. Those are okay. And kung air-cooling yung habol mo, pumili ka nung case na may kasama ng case fans. Yung ultimate advice ko about cases is get the one that you love. Yung case yung nakihita mo araw-araw yung makapalingod ka tapos sa sabihin mo na sh**, kanda talaga ng computer ko. A case is also a reflection of your personality. Like ako ngayon, yung current case ko, naked test bench setup, gusto ko lang makita na naka-exposed yung parts ko. And nga napapisip ako what does that say about me? Pero sa case talaga, dun mo malalabas yung personality mo. Performance ka ba? Cooling oriented ka? Gusto mo RGB bling? Or baka gusto mo maliit? Or baka gusto mo austeered na pang office or may media formal? Very clean lines? Or gusto mo sobrang laki? Mokong helicopter, mokong spaceship? Andaming cases ngayon, andaming options available. So kung kaya sa budget, I really do suggest getting a case that you fall in love with. Sabi natin kanina that the CPU is the boss. And alam natin lahat na dapat relax ng si Bosing. Ili dapat siya mas stress, dapat lamig lang. Kung mainit ulo ni Bosing, yari tayo lahat. Ganon din sa computer, mahalaga talaga na malamig lang yung CPU. So much so na may dedicated color talaga siya para lang sa kanya. Hindi gaga na yung computer mo kung wala kang CPU cooler. Pero kailangan mo ba talaga bumili nung CPU cooler? Paminsan, di mo na kailangan bumili nung CPU cooler. Yung ibang CPUs may kasama ng cooler, yung stock cooler na tinatawag, tapos libre siya kasama na siya dun sa CPU. And kung yung gamit mo sa computer, light use lang, for example sa work, or surfing, or video calls, ok na yung stock cooler. Yung mga Intel stock coolers, medyo pangit talaga. Bulok yung aesthetics, di siya maganda tingnan, tapos yung performance, pasable lang. Yung AMD stock coolers, are better. Mas maganda sila tingnan, yung iba may RGB pa, plus yung performance nila, is pretty good for a stock cooler. Pero overall, kahit Intel ka o AMD, kung performance habul mo, ilahan mo talaga nung third party cooler. There are two types of coolers, air cooling, and AIO. Actually may pangatlong type, na tinatawag na custom liquid water cooling, pero sobrang bihira lang nito. Mabosisi kasi siya, pang super enthusiast lang yung custom liquid. So yung primary options mo, is air cooling and AIO, or all in one water cooler. Water cooling pa rin si AIO. Para may better idea kayo anong bagay sa system nyo, ito yung basic differences between air cooling and AIO. For price, mas mura yung air cooling, especially when it comes to performance. Price to performance, mas mura yung air cooling. Di ko sinasabi na palaging superior yung performance nung air cooling versus AIO. Pero yung price to performance nya, how much you'll spend para dun sa cooling performance, mas mura for an air cooler. You can get the equivalent or even better performance sa AIO, pero mas mahal yung babayaran mo. For aesthetics, usually a lot of people pick AIO. Sa design nung AIO, mas malinis talaga siya. Mas makikita mo yung motherboard, nakayhwala yung cooling component o yung radiator medyo, nakadikit sa isang side nung case, so mas malinis tingnan yung overall build. Mas marami kang makikita sa components mo. And because the AIO has a radiator, mas malinao din yung RGB nya. So again, aesthetics. Yung air cooler kasi, nakadikit directro yan sa CPU. And while it can have RGB, the RGB is constricted by the tower design. So it might not be as clear as compared to the RGB on the radiator of an AIO. Plus, bulketing nang yung air coolers. Since they take up a lot of visual space dun sa center nung motherboard. For maintenance, medyo tayo, actually, sila. Kamitsan na rin di customer na o yung AIO may tubig yan, medyo takut sila na baka magkaleek o may maintenance involved. Actually, maintenance free yung AIO. Never makailangan irifil nung coolant. It's basically install and forget. Just like an air cooler, yung standard maintenance, tinatanggal lang yung dome. Sa air cooler, usually tinatanggal yung dome from the tower. And medyo mabusisito, depending on how dense yung fins dun sa CPU tower nung air cooler. Gabihan na. Tolaga naman. Kailangan rin linisin yung fans. And ganun din sa AIO, you brush the dust out of the radiator. Mas madali pangato compared to brushing out the dust from a CPU tower of an air cooler. And you just need to get rid of the dust on the fans. So, kung maintenance pinagusapan, medyo tayo lang talaga si air cooler kasi AIO. Most of the maintenance is just brushing away dust and the occasional repasting. Although, actually, mas madali pang a repasting sa AIO, kasi mas madali itanggalin yung CPU block since mas malit siya, mas compact compared to an air cooler where you actually have to remove the entire air cooler, the entire assembly, put new paste and then stick the entire air cooler back on. Compatibility sa case. Sa air cooler tinating nan yung height, ganun katangkan yung air cooler kasi ba yung sa case? Napagusapan natin sa case segment nung video na to how to check, but that's the measurement you need to check yung height nung air cooler versus yung clearance na kaya nung case. Sa AIO naman, radiator size tinating nan. Most AIOs come in 120 to 40 and 360. Yes, may alanganin na 280 mm rad which is still okay, but di siya ganun ka mainstream compared to 120 to 40 and 360. Yung dapat tingnan sa case specs mo kung nag-AIO ka. If your case can fit a 120 to 40 or 360 mm rad and kung anong location niya kung sa top, sa front, or sa bottom. General tip sa performance nung dalawa size matters for both of them. For air cooling, usually the bulkier big boy air coolers yun talaga yung sobrang ganun ng performance. Be Quiet's Dark Rock Pro 4 or Deep Cool's AS500 Plus. Yun medyo malalaki talaga yung coolers na yun because a larger size allows for more surface area dun sa CPU tower. Mas malaki yung surface area mo, mas malaki din yung cooling potential niya. Pero yun nga, mas malaking cooler, kilangan din medyo malaki yung case. Ganun na sa radiator size matters. Ang layun nung performance jump na 120 to 240 to a 360 mm rad AIO. Personally, for me, hindi worth it mag 120 mm rad. Yung performance niya personally medyo alanganin, kaya we don't carry it in the shop. Kung inisip mo mag 120 mm rad, mag air cooler ka nalang. Pero definitely ok yung performance nung 240 mm rad and anulaki nung jump, mas maganda pa yung performance nung 360 mm rad. So size matters and depending on yung kailangan mo kung sobrang init nung CPU mo or kung sobrang demanding nung performance na kailangan mo, it will really be worth it to get either a big boy air cooler or a 360 mm rad AIO. Pero bottom line, at the end of the day, hindi naman kailangan sobrang mahal nung CPU cooler mo. Even for enthusiast or performance level, may mga CPU coolers na good performing at a very reasonable price. Arctic has a very good series of coolers that are very reasonably priced, ganun din yung deep cool. And even yung mga premium coolers like Noctua, hindi sila ganun ka mahal relative to the performance that you get. So kung medyo give it sa budget, it's still very possible to get a very good CPU cooler na hindi naman ganun ka mahal at maganda rin yung performance. Nasadulo na tayo guys, hopefully may natatunan kayo. At wag kalimutan, may sale yung sponsor natin ng Windows 10 activation code. Use our code HS20 on checkout para magkaroon nung 25% discount. Daman rin na tayo sa last segment itong video na to yung cool sa motherboard. At kung nakinig ka sa ibang segments, alam mo na to lahat nung information kasi na daananan natin when we talked about all of the other components. Yung motherboard kasi basically lahat nung components somehow connect or sinasaksak sa motherboard. So, quick tour lang tayo. So, kita mo sa motherboard na to here are the four RAM slots. So, yung apat na dims sinasaksat nyo RAM so, nakarGB RAM ng computer na to. Ito yung CPU cooler niya. So, sa ilalim nito yung CPU. Itong specific kind of CPU cooler yung AIO na pagusapan nga natin sa previous segment. So, pagusapan muna natin to ko sa motherboard. Two basic things, size and socket. Yung size nung motherboard nagdedetermine ko ano yung size nung case. This is an ATX motherboard. So, ATX din yung case na to. There are three main sizes for motherboards. ITX, MATX, and ATX. Yung ATX yung pinakamalake medium size yung MATX. Isipin naman lang M medium. Actually, it's mini ATX but basically medium size. Tapos, yung pinakamalit yung ITX. Usually, yung size nung case mo same as yung size nung motherboard. Meaning, kung ITX board, MATX board, MATX case. Second basic thing to ko sa motherboard, socket. Tapagusapan natin nung sa CPU segment. Each CPU has one specific socket. At dapat tugma yung socket ng CPU chok yung socket nung motherboard. Let's say yung CPU mo, socket AM4, dapat yung motherboard mo rin, socket AM4. Otherwise, hindi sila gagana, hindi sila compatible, sayang lang yung pera mo. So, if you're buying both CPU and a motherboard, check mo lang. Dapat same socket lang sila para compatible sila. Asa, I'm sure natandaan mo dun sa RAM section nung video na to, yung mahalaga na compatible o tugma yung RAM mo dun sa motherboard mo. So, kung yung nabilimong RAM, DDR3, kailangan DDR3 compatible yung motherboard. DDR4, DDR4 board, and DDR5 RAM, DDR5 board. Yung anabangitan natin na walang RAMedro yan. Magkaiba yung RAM mo, syaka yung dun sa compatible sa motherboard dim slot mo, hindi yung gagana. So, hindi gagane yung DDR3 RAM sa DDR4 motherboard. Tukul sa speed, you should look at also the CPU and the RAM. Yung CPU kasi, may ibang CPUs na overclockable. Yung anabangitan natin dun sa CPU segment, pwede mo siyang ipatakbo ng past dun sa recommended speed ng manufacturer overclocking. And that sounds good, parang yung anabang sulit yung bayad mo, kung maganda yung overclock. Pero, kailangan mo rin i-check yung motherboard, kasi kailangan compatible yung motherboard for overclocking for that CPU. So, nangyayaringan na excited ka, bumili ka yung overclockable CPU, pero yung motherboard mo pala, doesn't support overclocking. Pangalawa for speed yung RAM, maraming ibang-ibang speeds yung RAM. So, let's say bumili ka yung RAM na 4000 megahertz, which is quite fast. Pero yung motherboard mo, hanggang 3200 megahertz lang pala yung compatible. Yung good news, gagahanan naman yung RAM. Tatakbo siya, magagamit mo. Yung problema, aabot lang siya dun sa 3200 megahertz, yung pinakamax na compatibility nung motherboard. So, yung motherboard yung nagde-determine yung max possible speed nung RAM. Kung si motherboard hanggang 3666 megahertz lang, hanggang dun lang talaga RAM mo, even though it could go faster 4200, 4500, doesn't matter. Magde-default siya dun sa fastest possible speed nakaian yung motherboard. Tungkol naman sa quality yung motherboards, kagay nung nang bagit natin dati, dapat tugma yung socket nung CPU yung socket yung motherboard. Pagkatapos, kung i-check mo yung socket tas anong compatible nang motherboards dun sa socket na yun, usually may mahabang list yun, pero same numbers lang siya. Tapos, mapapansin mo na tumatas din yung price depending dun sa anong line of motherboard na tiniting nan mo. Para mali now, let's take a common example, socket AM4. Yung motherboards na compatible dun, A320, B450, B550, X570. And yung list na yun from cheapest to most expensive. Yung pinakamura na motherboard line dun yung A320. Yung pinakamahal na motherboard line na compatible sa socket AM4 is X570. Tapos baka inisip mo na, well, gusto ko naman medyo quality yung motherboard na bangit ka ni hardware sugar na mahalaga yun for system stability. For example, B550 instead of A320. Parang masmahal naman si B550, siguro mas quality naman siya. Siguro mas tatagal siya. But motherboard lines don't work like that. Yung pagkaiba lang yung lines na yun kaya masmahal let's say yung X570 compared sa A320 sa features and usually yung features kung ko sa performance. Very basically, they add different features or they add different PCIe lanes para masabilis yung communication yung motherboard sa iba't ibang components yung computer. But it has nothing to do with quality. At kagaya na palagi natin binabangit, di mo naman kailangan magbayad kung di mo naman kailangan yung performance. For example, office build lang naman kailangan mo. Swap na swap na yung A320. There's no need to go more expensive than the B450, B550, X570. Yung quality lumalabas yun usually sa brand. Kaya medyo okay na masmahal konte yung brand of motherboard na binibilan mo. Because sort of like PSUs, medyo nagreralay ang consumer dun sa quality of the brand. Kasi matiwala ka dun sa brand. Alam mo na itong brand okay for CPUs, itong brand okay for PSUs, itong brand okay for motherboards. So there's no need to overspend on a MOBO. Kung di mo naman kailangan yung extra PCIe lanes nung B550, then just go for a B450 or even an A320. Walang problema yun. The quality is not in the line of motherboards, it's more in the brand that you buy from. At kung nang tatarong ka what brand is the best for what component, ibang video na yun, nabangit natin kung same sakit yung motherboard, same sakit yung CPU mo, usually compatible yun. Pero baka kailangan ng BIOS na update. Yung BIOS yung parang operating system nung motherboard. Sa nanin naman tayo sa operating system, for desktop it's usually Windows, paminsan, Apple, sa mobile ganun din, Android or iOS. Ganun din sa motherboard, yung BIOS yung parang pinaka basic niyang instructions para gagahan na siya. At yung maganda na update to, paminsan yung mga bagong CPUs, a under parin sila, compatible parin sila, kahit dun sa mga motherboard na lumabas bago sa kanila. So just random example, let's say may lumabas na CPU nung 2019, pero posible na gagahan na pa siya sa motherboard na lumabas 2016. And kung isipin mo ang galing di ba, parang future compatible yung mga motherboards, maaaring compatible sila sa mga CPUs na hindi palabas nung lumabas yung mga motherboards. But you might need a BIOS update. An easy way to think about it is, parang ibang lengwahi yan. Yung wika nung bagong CPU, iba, yung wika na alam nung motherboard, since luma na siya, iba rin. So para mapagana yung bagong CPU dun sa motherboard, they need to speak the same language. And that's sort of what happens when you update the BIOS. Pero warning lang, yung pag-update nung BIOS medyo tricky yun. Maaaring mag break yung motherboard mo o ibig sabihin hindi na siya aandar kung may mali na nangyari dun sa BIOS update. Although most shops, including hardware sugar, kung bumili ka naman nung motherboard sa amin at kailang nung BIOS update, i-update naman namin otomatikali. If you're feeling adventurous, you can try a BIOS update on your own, but if not, you can let your shop do it. So maraming sinusundan yung sakit na bagit nangan natin yung sakit ng CPU, dapat same yung sakit ng motherboard, kanong din sa CPU cooler, yung sakit yung tipping nan mo para malaman mo kung compatible ba yung cooler na yun kung air cooling manual o AIO, kung compatible yun sa motherboard mo. So, for example, like itong motherboard ko, sakit AM4, dapat yung cooler compatible rin sa sakit AM4 o titingan mo any mounting options. Usually nakalagay naman yun sa manufacturer's website kung anong sakit compatible yung mga coolers. Since lahat ng mga components ang ko plug-in sa motherboard, ganon din yung aesthetic component, yung RGB, RGB case fans, yung CPU block ng AIO. Usually yung RGB na yun naku-customize, may program ka dito sa computer, tapos ikaw na magsasabi na, oh, gusto ko lahat red, gusto ko rainbow, gusto ko pulsating, flashing in beat to the music, kung may sasabog na bomba dun sa game na linalaruko, biglang magpaflash ng red. I mean, some programs can do that. But all of that happens kasi nakaplogin yung mga RGB components dito sa motherboard. And sometimes it gets a little tricky. Yun yung problema sa RGB. I mean, you know, it looks nice, but it's not simple to do. Kailangan talaga yung check. May duma kaming video all about RGB if you're interested in that. Pero dito lang tungkol sa motherboard. Three kinds of ports that you need to check depending on what kind of RGB you have. Yung una, usually yung mga high-end RGB like yung galing sa NZXT or Corsair, yung connector na gamit nila internal USB port dun sa motherboard. Sakit sa ulo pa minsan kasi mabilis maubos yung internal USB headers dun sa motherboard. So much so na may mga add-on sa binabentan na pandag-dag ng internal USB ports for just inside the computer. Hindi taw yung mga nasalabasa sa loob lang yung case. Because a lot of parts do use them nowadays. Yung yung especially yung galing dun sa mga mas high-end na brands. If you have an AIO, if you have a fan hub, most likely those things will need two separate internal USB ports. So check mo lang. Other ways to hook up your RGB are through the RGB headers on the motherboard and there are two kinds. Yung 12V, 4-pin RGB header and yung 5V, 3-pin ARGB header. Again, better to refer to our old video kung ano ba yung pagaiba yung RGB and ARGB. Long story short, mas maganda yung ARGB kasi mas maganda yung mas fine yung control mo dun sa RGB. You can control the lighting of each individual LED rather than just having it controlled in a sequence. Pero yun nga, magkaiba yung headers nila at nakakalito, especially kung nagsisimula ako lang sa computer, akala ko, ARGB yung product mo, pero yung motherboard mo may ARGB header lang. Magkaiba yun? 4-pin yung ARGB header 3-pin yung ARGB header. Tapos nakakalito po kasi usually ginagamit lang interchangeably yung ARGB yung RGB because both of them just pertain to lighting. Although, mas dumadami na yung motherboards that have both, pareho silang may 4-pin ARGB header and 3-pin ARGB header. Di kagayonong dati, 2 or 3 years ago, yung high-end boards lang may pareho, pero nowadays, even the mid-range mobos may ARGB header and may ARGB header na. Yung nakakainis pa sa RGB and motherboards, iba yung tawag nung manufacturers dun sa ARGB, paminsan rainbow RGB, paminsan J, ARGB, is it J? But aside from the brands, isapang mark nung quality nung motherboard, yung hinahanap nung mga enthusiasts, yung quality nung VRMs tsaka yung cooling nila. Yung VRMs are yung voltage regulator modules. Actually, tatlo yung components nung yung MOSFETs, capacitors and chokes. So, they're all kind of very technical, pero they all boil down to getting the proper amount of power components. A lot of the components nung PC, mas kailangan nila na controlled power. Hindi yung parang torrent of power na. O sige, tambakan natin nung 400W, 300W parang gano. What a lot of the components need is a very fine, regulated, not noisy. So kung baka kung ipaplat mo, parang hindi siya talong talon, parang very steady yung signal of current. The VRMs, yung high voltage regulator modules, yun rabaho nila. They ensure na maganda yung flow of current, the proper type of current, the proper amplitude, to the various components of the computer. And for quality of motherboards, it's usually what most people look at, although, medyo mahirap, mal-disern paminsan dun sa mga specs nung brands kung, maganda ba yung VRMs nila? Maganda ba yung cooling yung VRMs? Yung motherboard parang PSU yan, not the flashiest component, but it's a really big factor in how stable your computer is and in general, yung long-term enjoyment mo nung system mo. A good quality motherboard, can really make things a lot smoother for everything. For your other components, for the programs that rely on those other components, it's a little tempting sometimes. Dun na tayo sa masmura na board, dun na tayo sa bundle na board. Yung ibang shops ang hilig magbondel, sobrang gandangan at CPU, pero yung bibigayin na about na board sayo, na required na bundle, medyo pangin. Or, parang hindi naman tugma dun sa CPU na yun. Overclockable yung CPU, for example, pero hindi mo ma-overclock kasi yung board na bundel doesn't support overclocking. We don't do that at hardware sugar. Wala kinong mga forced bundels dun sa mga customers namin. But long story short, mahalaga yung other board and if you want to spend a little bit extra to get a more quality, a more premium board, sulit yun in the long run. So yun na, guys, lahat ng basic components yung computer na daanan natin. I hope na katulong to if you're a beginner trying to learn more about computers or para makamura ka when buying your own computer rig, di naman kailangan palagi yung mahal. Since pang begino rin ang atong video na to, there are certain terms, specs na di ko na na daanan because yung yag gusto ko na maingano yung mga tao ma-interest sila sa PC hobby. And then from there, there are so many other videos dito sa hardware sugar at sa ibang channels na pwede mo panawarin para maslumalim pa yung understanding mo about PC hardware. Kung may bang tech questions ka, may forum kami si NetApp specifically para makatulong din sa mga beginners and veterans alike. So yung link na yun na sa description below. At kung nakatulong to yung video na to, please do consider subscribing to the channel. Usually di ko naman hilihingi yun, pero to be honest, medyo pinagirapan nagsaming to video na to, sobrang haba niya. Mga tatlong buwan rin to in the making. If this was helpful, please do hit that subscribe button kung may kaibigan ka, family na gusto rin makapasok sa PC hobby, please do suggest hardware sugar and this video. Yung gusto talaga namin na mas maraming tao makapasok or ma-interest sa habi natin. And thank you to our top fans na afford na namin to kapua na to and edyok lang. Thank you to Leah Magnaya, Ian Meru, ITX Addict, Jan Ruben Ocha, Christian Espinosa and Rafael James. Thank you for supporting the channel.