 Hello everyone! Welcome to Spring! Well, at least in the pattern world, it's still very cold where I live. But McCalls came out with their newest collection. Are they still doing like early spring, is that what we're calling it? Yeah, early spring. So, um, transition into spring with a new updated wardrobe shop. The collection, yes, please. If there's any indication by these two, we've got an interesting little video ahead of us. So if you're new here, this is my first impression video where I take a look at an entire pattern release or entire collection. If it's an indie pattern company, we just kind of like look at them together as if we were in the store, sitting down, going through the little catalogs and just gab about sort of what I think and different fit issues that I notice and different ideas and inspiration that pop into my head. Um, so, welcome if this is your first one. If this is your 50th one, you know the drill. Leave comments in the comment section below letting me know what you're loving, what you're hating, what you'll be buying, etc. Okay, so first up we have McCalls 8361, a Mrs. Dress. I think this is going to be one that comes in Mrs. and Women's. It's a shirt dress with a cutout waist with self ties stabilized by a band. Dress A has short pleated sleeves with elastic at hems. Dress B has long 2P sleeves with buttons at cuffs. Dress C has short sleeves with stitched hem. And I think this is one of the things that, you know, it's a little bit of a cop out in terms of like variations, but it does make it a great early spring dress with this different sleeve options. Certainly there's going to be length variations as well. Like doesn't see it look longer. Um, so I mean early spring, spring, summer is kind of all the same, um, depending on the weather where you live. But this is where we're headed. What do we think about them using the pattern cover as the very first photo? Normally that's at the very end. But here she is. Okay, so we've got a notched collar. It's not one of the collar stand though. It's kind of like a fold-over collar. So a little bit easier to sew. This is the pleated sleeve that goes into an elastic band. I like how they kind of like turned it under a little bit. And then it wraps around and comes into this little piece here that is just like a casing, I guess. What happened here? Why is this so funky looking? I don't know. Doesn't that look different than the rest of this? Like it looks like bias tape that got unfolded or something. Really strange. Okay, anyways, um, so gathers into that, gathers into that. What does the back look like? Oh, nice, big. This looks like a hem band. Can you see that line right here? So I don't think that's a seam. I think that that is the hem facing, which I love a hem facing. It adds like a lot of weight to the bottom of the skirt and a little bit of like, not movement, the opposite of movement, like structure. Okay, there's also a bust dart. Maybe that is a seam. Let's see. The line drawings will tell us for sure. There's one in a fun, yeah, I can imagine it for sure in like a leafy floral print. Think like, gosh, what is like, my mind is going to die and bomb first and bird, but I know that's not what we're thinking. We're thinking like Kate Spade, not really that Tory Burch. Some of those fun, flirty, floral, really feminine type of vibes. Now, one thing I'm not a very big fan of is this. We're going to tie them into bows. I don't know, guys, that feels a little, a little, I guess, unfinished, a little, like, bothersome to have to deal with that every time you put it on. Maybe you could easily, actually convert this into like those bra clips or maybe even like, no, a belted, that would be too hard, belts behind your back. But yeah, like a bra clip situation might be okay. I just don't know. I mean, I'm reaching around my lower back. Yeah, I guess, I don't know, then everything would be upside. I don't know about bows on the lower back, guys. But this elastic casing is nice. Did you get a nice, good fit, easy to fit there? And they did get a really good fit everywhere else. It looks like the shoulder looks okay. We do have some pulling here, but you know, not a ton. It's like through her, can you see all of this? It's happening at her neck line. So it might be that the shoulders are too narrow. But that's just very, very specific to her. Okay, so I'm thinking, what am I thinking? Is this, I'm thinking that is a hem band, not a separate piece. And definitely two different lengths here and three different sleeves. Cool. Yeah, they're definitely leaning into like the whole big five in general is kind of leaning into these cutouts lately. We even saw it in the simplicity early spring. Cotton blends, pop blend, gingham, shirting, lightweight, fusible, of course, all of those early spring fabrics that the one thing that I feel like kind of is a disservice is whenever they release these collections by season, they suggest fabrics based on that season. But that's not the only fabrics that you can use. If you buy this pattern, and you're making it in the fall, for example, you can absolutely use a chambray, some kind of like lightweight corduroy, you could do like a satin, any of that kind of stuff, you could even go a little bit holiday, you know, if you wanted to do something shiny, like a Crateback satin or any of that kind of stuff. So this, I wish instead, well, maybe I wish in addition to this, they put something along the lines of like weight and drape, you know, like you're all you're looking for these things, but like, in addition, something for this pattern would be like a light to midweight stable fabric. Gauze would be another really great example in the in the summer. I mean, I guess some of this cotton blends really does incorporate a bunch, but that's also very vague. I remember when I first started sewing, I was googling these exact words. So cotton blends is just way too generic of a term. But yeah, I would think something a little bit midweight, you know, for the skirt, certainly for the sleeve, if you're making the short sleeve version, you could go pretty lightweight on this. I mean, you're going to have interfacing in the collar. And I'm sure these things are stabilized. So in that middle band, so you can go pretty lightweight on this too. Maybe not rayon shally territory, but definitely like a rayon poplin, a rayon linen blend. And linen would also be a great example of a fabric you could use on this as well. So I get a little, you know, miffed about the fabric suggestions because they tend to be so specific, especially for the beginner sewer who doesn't know a lot about fabrication yet. But that's why I do these videos, I guess I try and talk through some fabrics too. So all right, so the notions you're going to need is half inch elastic and invisible zipper hook and I over the top of the skirt. Okay. And then for a, you need elastic for the sleeve and for b, you need buttons for the sleeve. Okay, so this one comes in sizes four through 20. That is a bust. Well, the bust and hip are kind of negligible here. The waist also kind of negligible because you just tie it in a bow. Everything's pretty much with the elastic in the back of the bodice and the A line skirt. I don't know, you could, this might be one that's pretty easy to size, but for the bust, it's 29 and a half inches up to 42. And it has three and a half inches of ease. So there's a little bit of wiggle room there where it doesn't have to be perfectly fitted. It really anywhere. All right, and then 60 inch fabric, three yards. Yeah, we're seeing, we've seen that probably for the last six months or so. These two yard wonder dresses are gone. Everything is in the three to four to five yard range now. Maybe because volume is back and more trendy. I don't know. But yeah, lots of, like I used to just buy, I go into a fabric store and see something that I liked and I would just get two yards of it, maybe two and a half. If it was long sleeve or I wanted it to be midi length. Now I would easily not go lower than three and a half, maybe even four. All right. So this is one. We do have, yeah, so they moved the women's version of this dress way down here, which I don't love that. But I do like to look at the pictures of them kind of side by side or right after each other to see if there's any differences. You can see here how they have the sleeve kind of untucked. Remember, I said, I like how they have the sleeve kind of rolled under itself a little bit on this one. They have it a little bit longer. So just shows that there is some variation with this elasticated sleeve. You can kind of push the elastic up a little bit or leave it down. And then this one, yeah, I think it's just a little like fussy of an application with this like, I guess like strap essentially that they've made. If it doesn't go in exactly perfectly, I don't know, it can get twisted. I don't know if there's a better way to do it, but, or if anybody would even notice, I tend to get very like hyper critical in these videos too, because like I'm looking for specific things, but in real life, no one would really notice. This one you can tell really well over on this side, how it is too long for her shoulder. You can see that here because you can see into the neckline. You shouldn't be able to do that. This needs to be pulled up here. This goes here. And that's usually that I feel like is way, way, way too common in the big fives women's patterns. I tend to think that women plus size people have narrower shoulders. Do y'all find that those of you that are shopping the women's patterns? Are you are you typically taking your shoulders in? So whereas on the Mrs. Version, the shoulder length was too short for that model. This one seems to be too long. So there's got to be some magical, magical measurement in between those two things. But all right, there's that more illustrations that we don't really need to see. But here's this. You can see the length really well, super cute, girly, flirty, really sweet. Yeah, look at this shoulder again. Just like looks like it's too big, right? But I also want to point out remember all of that pulling that we saw across the other models neckline, it's still now makes me think something's happening at the collar. So some of it is released, right? Some of the stuff that was maybe from the shoulder is released, but I do feel like maybe now this stuff is all pointing to the center back of the collar, which I don't know, I'm not advanced enough of a construction technical person to know what that could be without like putting my hands on it and like fussing around with it. Again, not noticeable to the naked eye at all. But look, you can see the elastic got twisted. Oh, I hate that. So yeah, just a little fussy, you know what I mean? Also, she needs a full seat adjustment or at least not technically the whole full seat adjustment, but at least a wedge added here so that her skirt stays long length. Any of us that have like apple bottoms, you know, those Kirby junk in the trunk, and all of us that have that know that when you have a A line skirt like this, you need to add a little bit of width to, you know, so there's enough fabric to go up and over your bum and then keep a perpendicular hem perpendicular to the floor. Okay, great. Okay, all that's the same. Wonderful. So now we're going to go back up to yeah, I really doesn't look like they kept the like these two are the same, right? Yeah, I wish they would keep the them back to back, Mrs. and women's back to back. But this is a women's knit corset style jacket. Corsets are they I feel like they've been kind of like hanging around in the back, you know, a little bit like only, you know, the really, really cool girls, the Haley Veevers of the world were wearing them a couple years ago. But now they're becoming very common very every day, very like seeing them on average girls in an average world, you know, going to target in their corsets. But this one is a zip up jacket that has princess seams and panels with a stand up collar hood, long sleeves with optional thumb holes, crop length or curve, hem and pockets. Yeah, the thumb hole thing is making a comeback too. I remember that was like, all the rage what like five years ago, maybe eight years ago, maybe I'm seeing a lot of things with them holes again. I have a lot of hate with them, they're nice. When you're not using your hands, but then the moment you go to like, you need to wash your hands, you need to touch something that's wet, all of that is, I'm like rolling them up a bunch. Anyways, so you have, it's not easy to see on this one, but you have like this little under bust seam with the princess seam here. And then this is what makes it like a corset style, you have this like panel here through the midriff. And then this kind of like flares out, goes into a hood that is sewn on the sleeve, discuss the thumb holes already, there's a crop version and this version. I don't know how these two are different yet. We'll see. A little pocket here on the side. I wish that had a zipper in it, that would be easy to alter. Okay, so the difference on this one is that there is no waist seam through here. It's just the panels go straight down. So if you get this to fit you well, it could be really, really flattering of a little like athleisure, you know, something to wear to yoga, something to wear like on a walk, on a cooler morning, you know, all that kind of stuff. This one I feel like is a little bit street style. You could wear this like to target, you could wear it and like not necessarily have to be working out or doing anything athletic. But you can see this is the other version where the, remember the pink version had the pocket going this way, this pocket goes this way. I actually like a scooped pocket a lot better because, I'll say because this is a good example, you don't have this like opening, you know, I just don't love the opening. Okay, so they put hers over what I'm assuming is a one piece knit jumpsuit that I hope is a pattern. We will see, but her face is kind of giving me a little bit of a smirk, right? She's like, are you all for real? Like somebody just said something like silly, I don't know. A little bit of sass, but yeah, it's cute. And this longer length of the scooped hem, all good. Here's the back, a little long in the sleeve, I guess. They did have a bit of a wavy hem, but that's all just construction stuff. Well, the sleeve is it, but the wavy hem is. Okay, so here are our versions actually quite like this. I think you could do a lot of really cool things with fabrics. Let's see what they recommend. Stretch knits, such as athletic knits, ponti, cotton, lightweight scuba, perfect. That's exactly what I was going to suggest. The athletic knits that they have at Joanne right now and after doing my little like splurge on knit fabrics a couple of weeks ago. The athletic knits that have like not a ton of stretch. The other thing I think that they are missing out on is putting the percentage of stretch here because we could shop for fabric or at least imagine fabric that would be suitable without having to get the pattern back. They will have when you buy the pattern, that little like measurement thing where it's like, hold your fabric up to here. If it stretches this far, then you're good, which I think is a great way back in the day for like the home service to figure out stretch percentage without having to do any math or anything like that. But nowadays, all the fabric companies are putting what the stretch percentage is. So they need to catch up and put stretch percentage on here as well. But I'm assuming based on these fabrics that it's not super stretchy, I'm thinking like 15, 20% stretch, not the 50, 100% stretch. A lot more fitted, a lot more compression like think about those types of fabrics, your legging fabrics, you know what I mean? And then you can go a little bit lighter weight with these cotton knits. I think that might be what they use for the pink version, but I'm picturing it in much more of like a not super stretchy, more compression suck in vibe. All right. So notions are twill tape for neck edge, separating zipper, more twill tape or something, maybe the hem. And then B and C also get a longer separating zipper, okay, and more twill tape. So yeah, that second tool tape has got to be for the hem or something. This is a women's pattern. So the bust is 42 inches up to 60 inches. And they have zero ease in the bust, which is what makes it great for those compression type of fabrics. So it's going to kind of hold you in. We're not going to utilize the stretch of the fabric. If it were negative ease, that would be utilizing a lot of stretch of the fabric. And then the waist, they have one inch of ease. So that seems comfortable. So yeah, they did a good job on this one. All of that makes perfect sense to me. And they do, they have a Mrs. Version is what I want to see next. Yes. Is this it? Yeah. Yep. Of course, it's styled jacket. Okay, great. So they made the cropped version for her. Super cute, right? Like I could totally see myself wearing this, especially if we had a coordinating set with some leggings, right? Super cute. I do feel like this might be a little bit short on her. But I always, always, always, like even in real life, I see this all the time where you have this under bust seam. And if you have a fuller bust, the seam will be up here. If you have a seam here that's going across the middle of your bust apex, that is wrong. It should come up and over similar to the concept that we talked about with the skirt in the last pattern on the women's version. This might, if I were like up on her, it might be long enough, but just kind of got stretched out and looks a little looser. But I would just want to double check that on my own version. This also looks to be like a more than an inch of ease here in the waist. And maybe a little longer than intended to. I was kind of getting the vibe that it was waist length. But that would be hard to know without looking at the pattern pieces. But there she is with her thumb hole. It does create a pretty long line for the arm though. Like look how long her arms look. And it does keep them a little bit warm. For those of you that ride bikes and all that, you guys are all like, yes, we need the thumb holes. We love the thumb holes. I do much prefer this little stand collar versus the hood. I'm just not a hood girl, but I don't live in a place where it's super windy or anything like that either. So and this is the version that they had on the missus or on the women's pattern. It does not look like this on her, right? They made this look so much more snatched than it actually was on her. And it also looks shorter here in the illustration. Like in the illustration, it looks like it's going to come down and mimic maybe this. And on her, it was really long. So obviously, you know, do what you're comfortable with. But I think the intention might have been for it to be not as long as it was as we just saw. Okay, so there it is again. Yeah, this is still bothering me. See this? Okay, okay. Now I can see perfectly. This scene here needs to be here. Okay, homegirl, lucky for her has a beautiful hourglass shape. She's got a fuller bust than her sort of size would indicate she needs a full bust adjustment. We just add some length to get this scene to go under here. But for those of us in the itty bitty committee, it should be fine. Okay, that's the only version we didn't see made up. That's one thing I do like about the Mrs. Anne women's patterns being separated is that we get to see both versions. Now I don't remember seeing an issue with the women's bust. So that's good. But yeah, she looks a million miles long, long arms, long legs, short little bodice. Love that. A little too long through here again, which makes me think that it needed to be shortened, right? Doesn't that look like waist length? Okay, and same back should be. I'm staying corrected. So on this one, they gave them one and a half inches of ease and then only, oh, and then one and a half inches of ease in the waist too. Huh. All right. Well, thankfully, there's a bunch of different seams through the bust. You take in these princess seams by a quarter of an inch. That's half an inch on each side. That's a full inch all the way around. So you can make very negligible changes to the seam allowance and like big results happen. Okay. Fun, fun. All right. Now we have this guy and this guy. Right. So this is what they've been wearing underneath these jackets that we've been looking at. Knit, pants, and top. Let me read the description first. Athletic crop top in two styles. View A has straps with a twisted front detail. View B is a high neck with front cutout detail. Player pants have waistband with optional front seams or not detail twist. Straight off of like ready to wear, right? Like we see this in Target. We see it at Fabletics. We see it, you know, in Lululemon, like all the places. So this is just pretty much a knockoff of all the ready to wear we've been seeing. They did give us a cute little detail that seems pretty difficult to execute, right? Like that isn't immediately tell me, oh yeah, this is how you construct that. The fit on this is exceptional. I love the coverage that you get across here, which is what's hard, I think, to shop for sports bras in stores is that sometimes the coverage isn't what you want. So being able to make your own, love that for us. This one has the little panel, right? This here. And then they gave us a flare. I mean, this is a full on flare. There's no two ways about it. It's not boot cut. It's not, certainly not a legging like she's flared. I do have some flare leggings. I love them. It's a little bit of a, are those leggings? Are those pants? Depending on what top you wear with it. But we do have a couple other versions. Let's see. So there's this with a little cut out, right? We've seen that a good trillion times. I know that there's any patterns that have that too. But there's the different pant. And then here's the pant with the twist. Cute. And then here's the back. The back looks pretty good. You get a little separate panel here. Great for fitting. This is a rivnet, which is a really nice application for not necessarily working out, but definitely lounging. These days, the rivnets are mid weight. They don't have like, they might have good stretch, but they also have really great recovery. So they are more on the side of compression than they would be on the side of like drapey, super stretchy. Like, I feel like that's what we were getting a lot of in the beginning when rivnets first came to market for home sewage. And now they're more like what we see in the stores. So fun. I love this one. I think this would be great. I'm wearing so much lounge wear. And figuring out ways to like, wear it out of the house without it looking like weird. I don't know. I'm enjoying my lounge wear moments. So, all right. So stretch knits such as athletic knits, cotton knits, rivnet, and then see the stretch gauge. You guys even, Joanne has some really great options for this. I saw, I think I got one. You'll see in a a whole video I'm about to post that I got some rivnet, and I swear they're calling it athletic rivnet, but you'll see it soon. And it came in like, I got mine in like a slate gray color, but they also had brown. They did not have black, which I thought was interesting. Okay. So elastic for the band of the bra and then quarter inch elastic for the pants. So just a little bit at the very, very waist. Top of the waist. So this is alphanumeric sizing, extra small to extra large. That's 29 and a half inches to 44 inches in the bust. The waist is 22 to 37. And then they're giving you negative ease in this one. Okay. So if you use a rivnet that has some stretch to it, it will fit, not loose. It will fit comfortably. It'll stretch around your body. If you're using something like a Ponty knit or some kind of like, you know, like compression legging knit type of thing, it will hold you in, right? It'll lock and load. So knits are one of those things that, I mean, I guess there's a lot to learn about wovens too, but knits and the stretch percentage and how that feels, I think, is one of those things that's a little bit tricky to learn. Okay. So here's our women's version. They gave her this banded version. Look how great this seam looks comes up and over her bust. It's right below her bust. Love that little peekaboo here, but not anything weird, right? Like there's no boob slidage slipping out or anything. Nice high rise on the pant. A little bit funky of a fit in a crotch, I'm going to say, but considering it's a fit model, I get it, right? Leggings are very personal to fit, but I think in general what happened is they, this is probably too long because a lot of the women, the plus size women are petite, you know, short-waisted or at least the rise needs to be shortened. So that might be what happened through here. Or maybe that's the curve could be funky. I don't know, but somebody would have to get up in there and I get why they didn't want to mess around with that. So there she is, right? With like an earring. Like they put her in a high tops, not a high top, but a platform sneaker, like very ready to wear. Honey loves it. Okay. And then here's the back on her. The back looks great on her. You can see how there's none of that. It's not too long. You know that ruffling like it was happening on the other model. So next we're going back up. Okay. So this is a new designer, Brandy Joan. I was doing a little bit of research on her when I saw that she announced that she was going to be a new McCall's designer. I was a little bit like, is she a Nomi designer, or is she a McCall's designer? She is a McCall's designer. She's out of LA, was doing like, just kind of like her, I don't think she was a pattern, like I don't think she was the indie pattern designer. I don't think she sold patterns before. But was like designing for herself. So she's got a very interesting style. It feels very cool. Very, like, maybe because her name is Brandy, but I'm also picturing like Brandy Carlisle. I don't know why. Maybe she looks like her a little bit, but like this whole like strapless, sweetheart, fitted denim jumpsuit vibe, a little bit Nashville, a little bit edgy, that's her vibe. Okay. So I'm excited that she has two patterns with this collection. I'm excited to see what she continues to come up with. This feels very telling to me as to how McCall's is picturing them as a brand. I know that for a while, McCall's was kind of looking like they were going to be the Gen Z pattern company. This doesn't feel like Gen Z to me, like my Gen Z friends are not wearing this. It feels like they're going to stick with the age group that, you know, 20s, 30s and up, but they're going to give McCall's a bit of an edge, a bit of a younger fecal, but mature and not so youthful and young feeling, right? Okay. So Brandy Jones jumpsuit has slant pockets, backpatch pockets, smocked back with invisible side zipper closure and detachable belt. Cool. So you have this sweetheart neckline, princess seam, this belt that goes up and over. This is not a seam. This is a belt on top. Princess seam, slant pockets, seams down the front. And then here's the back. You have this little smocked back, which actually looks like real smocking because in the past, they've been doing those casings with the elastic, which I get for the home sewage is a little bit easier. Certainly easier than them to explain, but also just like that's not smocking. But this is the little band that you see from the front. Here's the belt again. You get this deep, deep, deep, deep, oh shoot. Oh, what is it called? Oh no, it fell out of my head. Oh, I can't think of it. I hate myself. Anyways, this thing that might come to me any second now, it does feel like there is a waist seam. So we'll have to look at the line drawings and see. Here's our backpatch pockets. I don't love the placement, especially since she's the designer in the model. These need to be in and down for her, but and then there is no back princess seam, which also is a very interesting choice. The back is all one piece. Yoke, yoke, this is a yoke. Okay, yeah, so there is a waist seam. The smocking provides a little bit of gathering there, but I mean, the fabric options for this are going to be pretty specific, but kind of wide ranging in terms of what the end result will look like. So denim, like she has, twill is denim weave. Like, well, denim is twill weave. So there's very, very, very similar. Poplin, cotton blends, really, that's all you're going to give us. Because I was picturing suede and leather and, you know, maybe because those are more fall and winter fabrics, I don't know, I was picturing like all the, all the things in the holidays, absolutely a satin you could do on this, like so many things. Notice that none of these are stretch either. So the sizing and the ease is indicative of the fabric being non stretch. So an invisible zipper, elastic, elastic thread for the shirring for the smocking in the back. Yay. Okay, a buckle and grommets. So this is a, a mrs pattern sizes six to 24 bust is 30 and a half to 46. And then here's your fabric requirements. And we have four inches of ease in the bust, you know, three and a half and same for the hip 48. Yeah, three and a half. And then the waist is kind of, well, the bust, oh, well, three and a half with the smocking. I don't know about that. After the smocking, it should be pretty fitted. Pre smocking, I can see three and a half inches of ease. That seems like a lot for a fitted thing, but the waist, they're giving one and a half inches of ease and that makes sense too. All right, Brandy Joan, let's see what her other one looks like. This is a top and dress, flattering and flirty line bodice top and dress feature bust tie closure with lightly shaped cups and have front and side boning detail to add support. Top is cropped with zipper on sleeves. Dress has short puff sleeves with front slide slit. Okay. Okay, so I, oh, dang, with the words that are falling out of my head. A peasant E, and that's not the word I'm thinking of, but that'll do with this little like, you know, tie pulled in through the square neckline under bust situation, boning happening here, very corseted type of top and then a loose flowy skirt. Here's the back. She's really good at this over the shoulder, right? So you do have elastic in the sleeve. Here's your center back zip and then just the rest of the skirt. Okay, here is your kind of, gosh, what am I thinking of? Maybe start with an M? Can't remember, but I love this little puff sleeve and then it comes straight down. There's a zipper here. That's how fitted the sleeve is. You need a little zipper to get it your hand in cropped version or add a skirt to it with a slit. Love both of these. I could see myself in these. I mean, this is one of the most perfect applications of a thrifted sheet that I've ever seen. If that doesn't give the thrifted sheet vibe, I don't know what does, but they're calling for crepe, shawly crepe to sheen and lawn. You can definitely go heavier weight than that into, I mean, even for this top version, heck even for the skirted version, shirtings, like you can go, you can go pretty structured on this and don't be afraid to do that. But any of the cotton blends, any of that would be really great, really pretty. All right, so boning, which you've never done boning, it seems intimidating, but it is really easy. If you do a casing and put like elastic in it, you can do boning. Single fold bias tape, that's for the, like you make the boning casing for lack of a better term with this bias tape and then you slide the boning in. It's really, really easy. Elastic for the shoulders, a separating zipper, invisible zippers for the sleeves, and for be the dress, a longer zipper for the back, and more elastic for the shoulders. Okay, again, misses sizing, so six to 22, 30 and a half inch bust to 44 inch bust. The waist is pretty fitted, so the waist is 23 to 37 inches, and they give one and a half inches of ease there. Also, well, yeah, one and a half inches of ease in the bust too, and then the hip is pretty roomy for the A-line skirt. Okay, Brandy, welcome to the club. Good, good start. Very, very indicative of her brand, and also like I said, kind of telling as to where McCall sees themselves fitting in terms of demographic. Okay, so now we've got another corset top. I'm telling you guys corsets, they're everywhere, they're everywhere. People are wearing them to target, I promise. Don't be intimidated by the corset anymore. Okay, but this is a corseted knit top with a square neckline, self-knit band finishing on the neckline, panels at front in sleeve variations, view A is sleeveless, view B has bubble sleeves, view C has short sleeves, view D has long sleeves. So it's all the same bodice, and then you put in different sleeves. Again, they've used a rib knit here, you've got a middle panel, and then a side front, what would it be called? Side front, two side front panels, whatever, like princess seams, and then a middle panel as well. It comes down to the traditional point for a corset and then your sleeve variations. So this is a spring, summer, winter, fall top. Is this the same girl in the first dress that I was noticing the shoulder things with? The scaping here is the only fit issue that I see so far. Here are our other versions, like literally just make a million of these, you guys. They are super comfortable, super flattering on everybody. So good. Yeah, the fit on this is really good. There was a moment there when the Big Five was making knit patterns and just like adding way too much ease. I don't know what was happening, but they seem to have to figure that out now. Here are our line drawings, perfect. And stretch, and it's only cotton knit, rib knit, lightweight, ponty, athletic knits. Yeah, that pretty much runs the gamut of those mid weight, like I don't know, again, they don't give us the stretch percentage, so it's hard to tell exactly what it is, but I imagine it's pretty low. Six to 24 on the sizing, we have a 30 inch bus up to 46 inches with two, three inches of ease. I don't know about that. This one has zero inches of ease. Come on, guys, like you don't have anybody there in that company that can like freaking double check and edit these things. Like no, it does not make any sense for a size six to have three inches of ease and a size 24 to have zero inches. So annoying. Okay. Hope they didn't go to print on that because, geez. All right. And then they put three inches of ease in the size six for the waist, 39, 40, 41, and then two and a half inches of ease for the larger size. Who knows? This is why I have my fast fit workbook, my worksheet, so that you don't, I mean, I wouldn't know how to make heads or tails of this. Which one is it? But you use the these sizes, these measurements, as well as these measurements, compared to your body measurements to determine what size to make. It makes it way more foolproof than just kind of like, it's like the blind leading the blind. You know, if you just use the body measurement chart, like who knows what you're going to get. Did they make a women's version of this? I don't think so. So we've got this little number here. This is pants and shorts. Yeah, cargo. I get it. I get it. If they're following the trends and the girlies and all that. Yeah, cargo is doing its thing. Remember Mimi G's pattern from simplicity? Remember, it was like that long anorak and the long pants. This is a similar vibe. Pull on elastic waist pants and shorts sit below the waist, have wide legs with or without cuffs. If you B and C have cargo pockets, all of yous have backpatch pockets. If you see has belt with D ring closures. So think of like 1990s TLC. Right? Doesn't your mind instantly go to like all the variations and options you remember? So they said this one was knit, right? Right? Pull on elastic waist. So doesn't say that it's knit. Okay, cool. But it looks like sweatpants, doesn't it? Either way, if it's not knit, I mean, I would lean in hard. I would go full on camo. I would go pleather. I mean, why not? Right? But you have this version with like the cuffed ankle, you have a wide leg version, and then the short. The short kind of feels like, yeah, okay, we'll give them a short. There's not a lot of style going on. There's no packed pockets. There's no like cargo element to it at all. It's just a little knit short. But these have this little thing here, like this separate panel here. I'm wondering if this is indicating they are doing a color blocking because that's a choice. But and then it has this little folded over thing, which back in the day, that would have been a zipper that you could have unzipped. God, I miss the 90s. And you could have had a long pant or a capri, you know, because options. And then you have the different pockets here. Okay, there's your short. There's your pant. This is the belt with the D ring. I do like how they put belt carriers on here, like sandwiched, you know, they sewn them within the elastic casings. That's cool. Here's the back. Okay, I would have put one here, maybe, but either way. Yeah, pocket placement looks decent. There is a seam here. The pockets wrap around to the side. That's cool. Yeah, I mean, for all intents and purposes, it looks like this is spot on for what you are seeing in places like Urban Outfitters and stuff like that. And yes, this is contrast. So do what you will with that. I don't know that I would go contrast colors. But definitely texture, maybe. Yeah, I do wish they would have done a little bit of something extra with the short. I'm seeing a lot of these shorts that are like this high-waisted like lots of elastic at the top, like four or six inches of elastic at the top. But they have that kind of like pedal opening on the side, which I guess, yes, we could do that ourselves. And that's like the new athletic running short. So I wish they maybe would have given us a little bit of something with that, but I get it. Already a lot going on with the others. Crepe, Shally, and Nyman Ripstop. Crepe? Well, no, that's not at all what I was picturing. I was thinking way more structured. Remember, I said stuff like, like I was picturing like twill and stuff like that. But they went way drapey. I mean, the Ripstop isn't super drapey, but it is very lightweight. They went way lightweight. So that's interesting. I wonder what they used. Normally, I can tell this, I guess, must be the Ripstop. Because that's not Shally. That's not Crepe. Interesting, because like, like I was saying, the Ripstop isn't drapey, but it is lightweight. And these two are lightweight and drapey. And in my mind, the weight is what is more important here than the drape. Wait, the drape is more important here than the weight. That's what I want to say. So not super drapey is what I was picturing. I can't wait to see if anybody ends up making this and what they make it out of. But again, I would go hard into cargos, I mean, into, yeah, into cargo print. I think that would be so cool. Or even some of those like really fun, like embroidered dinnams that they have at Joanne. I would find something really cool. Like I wouldn't just make this out of a plain, boring, simple thing. Maybe the shorts. But I don't want Shally shorts. Unless they're like, you know, supposed to look like a skirt, you know, those ones are like cool lots almost. Weird. That's weird. That's throwing me off a lot. Okay, so five and a half yards of elastic for just going around your waist a good julienne times. More elastic for C for the ankles and D rings if you put the belt on. So it's alphanumeric sizing extra small to two X. Us about as large as the size range gets for misses 29 and a half up to 48 in the, well, there's no bust, 22 inches up to 41 and a half on the waist. And are you kidding me? 14 and no, it's not 14 inches. I can't, I can't, I can't, that's just wrong. Just wrong. So best of luck to you if you go to make that. Oh my gosh, it's just like so frustrating. It's like frustrating to me because I know that it's wrong, but it's doubly frustrating because I know that some of you don't know that that's wrong. Like, and this is not a one person company. Like I work with so many brands, indie pattern companies, who it's literally one person doing all the work, you know, they have more than one person, even an intern, it could double check and edit the back of the pattern envelopes. Okay, gonna jump off this soapbox quickly before I devolve completely. All right, so we're going from very like trendy, casual bunch of athleisure type stuff, girly flirty stuff to Chanel, right? So effortless and so chic. This must be in response to Emily in Paris. It's all I can think of the two big trends right now are this kind of like elevated athleisure, and then also like the couture, but every day also vibes of the Emily in Paris wardrobe. It's inspired me, I can't imagine it not infiltrating the pattern world as well. But this jacket and skirt comes with French trim detail on the edges, jacket has hook and eye closure, A line mini skirt has slit opening with button front detail, separate pattern pieces for A, B, C and D cups, which I know you guys love that. So if you need a cute little cropped jacket, and you have a fuller bust as compared to the rest of your body measurements, this is for you. Yay. But yeah, your very, very traditional Chanel tweed jacket, they did elevate this a little bit by giving it sort of a crossover vibe. But can you see how it's like, yes, it's Chanel, but it's not your grandmother Chanel, right? I mean, this is like, hello. Very young, very cute, very sort of sexy, very chic still, but yeah, yeah. I don't know that I'd go to tea with the Queen or wherever people do within their actual Chanel in this skirt, particularly, but it's super cute for today's sort of like how people are spending their time, not necessarily in an office all the time, but maybe sometimes wearing this kind of stuff to like lunches and, you know, fun stuff like that. The fit is impeccable. They did an exceptional job fitting this to her. And there you go. Very, very, very standard. Like they've done this pattern a million times and re-release it every few years, and this is their 2023 version. Fabrics are going to be tweed, boucle, wool blends and jacquard, super easy to find, maybe not at Joanne, but definitely online. You can absolutely find them. Lining fabrics, hook and eye, grosgrain trim, grosgrain trim, invisible zipper and buds. If you want to fun, like, let's dive into this for several days, several hours. This is one of those really fun projects. Six to 24 on the size range. Bust is 30 and a half to 46 with three inches of ease. That makes sense to me. Um, the hip for the skirt is 32 and a half, 36. So three and a half inches on the hip. That also makes sense. So I think they got one right. All right, looked at this, looked at this. We have this little version here, which, oh, are Laura Ashley. These are always so fun. Laura Ashley is a throwback. If you're of a certain age, Laura Ashley holds up a lot of rent in your brain, right? From those days. Um, there are ways that we can certainly modernize Laura Ashley today and not make it, especially if you're from the South or you knew anyone in the South, like that was your whole identity. It was Laura Ashley. I mean, it was in your bedroom. It was in your closet in your bathroom. It was everywhere. Oh, vintage 1970s wrap dress, sewing pattern view. A and B can be worn with square neckline in front or back has tie belts. Can be worn backwards. Is that what they just said? Has tie belts has elastic in front, back and sleeve casings view. A has a lower ruffle. So this isn't anything like, and we've been doing these little, you saw the Puff's sleeve elastic shoulder thing earlier. Um, Brandy Jones pattern. Um, so this is still very, like in style, you know, these types of dresses. I think the Laura Ashley of it all is just like this extra ruffle with the exposed ruffle here and then the prints that they used. And it was like, you know, how identifiable like Vera Bradley is like, or people look at it and they go, Oh, that's the such and such print. Same thing with like Liberty and rifle paper. Similar to that. But just head to toe in every area of your life. Match your curtains. Why not? Match your bedspread, of course. But this one does have, I do like this little crisscross detail. They're flattering. It's sweet. And it looks like they made us a version. Yes. Thank you. Which is that the, no, that's the version on the left. But yeah, just really frilly, really florally, lots of florals. But you can definitely modernize this with different fabric prints or no print. Lots of options there. But yeah, just generally like a sweet dress. So they're saying you can wear this in the front or that in the front, which I don't know. How does the sleeve really symmetrical side to side, front to back? I mean, if so, I guess, oh, look, there they did. They put it in the back. Does she wear it with the, oh, they don't show us the front of it. So I don't know what that looks like. But it's just a really interesting thought. I mean, I guess I just never considered it. I guess I always figured the sleeve would be different, but maybe it's not. But the crossover version is cool. But I also like this one. I could see myself making both of them honestly. Another great application for vintage sheets, where you can, if you get the pattern for two bucks on sale, you get your sheets minor, I think $1.99. And you know, you get the yardage of a full sheet. So it's a really inexpensive garment in the end. Lightweight cotton, cotton blends, shale, crepe, machine, yes, all of that, any and all of that. So lightweight drapey all the way up to, I wouldn't call it midweight, but you could go a little bit more stable. Six to 24 on the size range. That's a 30 and a half inch bust up to 46. They're telling me 18 inches of ease. What is happening? Are they measuring it flat before it's brought in with the ruffles? That's all I can think of. That is all I can think of. I don't get it. Because even the waist, seriously, the finished garment measurement of a size six is 54 inches. Who, who types that in and doesn't think that seems really weird. I've never put in 61 inches, maybe for it, but I've never put in 54 inches for a waist on a size six before. Like who doesn't just stop and think that doesn't make sense. Like if you're making a cake and the cake's like a pound of sugar somewhere along the way, you're going to be like, yeah, no, I don't think that's right. I don't get it. I don't get it. And hopefully, like I said, somebody's doing something before these go to print. I'm like, goodness. Okay, now we have this. They're calling it a men's cargo jacket, but I don't know why you couldn't. It's everybody's jacket, right? Collar, metal snaps, front separating zipper, abuse BC and D, feature large metal pockets and on the hip and chest and include internal waist belt with buckle. The internal waist belt is really cool. I mean, straight out of the gap, right? Very chic. Love this. Dan would never wear this. He wouldn't be caught dead in this, but he's just not cool enough. That's all there is to it. So very cool. These are the like, I call them 3D pockets because they actually come out of the jacket. There's like a, it's like a purse, really. There's like a bottom piece here versus this, which is flat. And then this must have some elastic in it somewhere. Yeah, but I love the snaps. Love the collar. This one looks like it's a smaller pocket than this does, right? Let's see if he moves his hand. Yeah, weird. So I don't like the little baby pocket that much. I mean, I guess in theory, like if this were really a military jacket, you would use that for like bullets. I don't know. Oh man. But like in the illustration, it's not that. So that's what's also confusing to me. Yeah, looks good though, although the sleeve cap is a little small for this sleeve opening, a little pointed. All right, there's your kind of very minimalist version, a little less minimalist. And then this is us going full on. I love it. I wish Dan wore stuff like this, but he won't. Yeah, I love this detail too. This is on the jacket M18. I'm sorry, what am I saying? 8-1-2-1. You know, remember that green plaid jacket I did for the sew along? It has this too. It's a really fun little detail. All right. And then what, like twills and stuff? Yeah, twill denim linen. Yep. And then because it's a men's pattern, the sizing is different. So it's sized 34 to 52, which is their exact chest measurement. I never realized that. Did y'all know that? And then ease still applies. So that's how if you are a woman, that's how you would figure out your size, I guess. Again, if you use the fast fit worksheet, it's really helpful. But there's a, what is that? 34, 40, what is that? Eight inches of ease in the chest. Yeah. And it's straight down. So you can pick your size accordingly. Okay. Next, we have this little vintage number. This might be the last one. Vintage dress and jacket. Okay, I'm gonna do my very best. If you haven't seen me go through one of these vintage patterns before, the Laura Ashley one was very kind because it was 1970s and made sense to me. But when we get into the 50s, 40s, 20s, some of these terms, I don't know what they mean. So I do my very best, but I struggle. Okay. 1950s dress has a square neckline that creates a picture frame effect. Okay, I get that. Beautiful. Skirt of dress is full and gourd. I also know what that means. Excellent. I'll show you when we look at the pictures. BUB jacket has front button closure and contrast on collar and cuffs. Okay. They took out all the funky words. So that's a lot more helpful. But you have a fitted bodice, right? You can see the little bust art here. And then this little, it's a collar that becomes a sleeve and like an overlay thing. Then you have your skirt, which is gourd. Now I thought gourd meant the panels came up to a point somewhere around here and then back down. This just looks like a paneled skirt to me. So anybody feel free to chime in and educate us all. Is there a difference between gourd and paneled? Didn't it say paneled and gourd though? Oh, full and gourd. Okay. So maybe that is different. But I thought gores were like came to a point and back down again, which I'm not seeing in the illustration. You also have this version, which is like completely different than the last version. But you have your bust darts, a little grown on dolman sleeve, a turnback cuff that is contrast fabric, same with the collar and buttons all the way to the top. I mean, the way that they make these look like two completely different garments. Oh, okay. Because they are. Wait, does this go over this? Does this come off? Again, this is where I get a little confused. It's what's happening. Dress and oh, that that does go over wild. Okay. So somewhere in here, she has that picture frame. No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no. That can't be right. The picture frame comes off, right? Right. This just like lays on top of you, like a bib. And then I don't know. I don't know. It doesn't like normally it would show it on the side like the belt. This is over that. That's not so uncomfortable. I would never wear that. Okay, gingham, chambray, linen, shantung. Yeah, cottony type fabrics, for sure. Linen, shantung, dupeony, all that stuff. Snaps, hook and eye, seam binding, slide buckle, belt backing and five buttons. Six to 24, your bus, which should be fitted on the dress is 30 and a half to 46. And they're getting five and a half inches of ease for the dress and 10 inches, or nine and a half inches of ease for the jacket. I don't know. I don't know that I trust anything that this has to say anymore. So I'm not going to confuse you guys. Okay, now we're going to skip over little girl stuff, skip over accessories, costumes, little girl stuff, and all stuff. Okay, so that's it. That is our McCall's early spring all in all, you guys. Pretty strong start to 2023. Some that I think I will for sure be grabbing is this little set. I'm going to look through my patterns and see if I have something that I could pull this off with. I do like this look and want to make something like this, but I might already have a pattern to do it. Not super original on the design there. This one I'll probably grab and yeah, that's probably it for me. But let me know what you guys think. If I hadn't gotten so many cutouts from their fall collection, I might consider this one, but this one seems a little sloppy to me. But cannot wait to see what you guys think, what you'll be grabbing, following on Instagram. If you want to know about the Joanne sales on patterns, I try and post them whenever I get the little mailer. It's been few and far between lately, but we're trying. So yeah, give me a follow there and be able to look out for Joanne sales. Otherwise, that's going to do it for me today, y'all. Thank you so much for watching and I will see you all very soon. Bye!