 Well, I have a new project. It's over there on the right. It's an Atari Battlezone arcade game. So apologies for the shaky cam footage, but it's very difficult because I don't actually have any good lights in this room. So I'm holding the light with one hand and the camera with the other. So anyway, some facts. This was released in November of 1980 by Atari, and it uses black and white vector graphics. Now you notice this funny little thing over here. This is actually a kind of a periscope sight. The monitor is actually inside and pointing up, and there is a mirror which sends the image over to your face, which you put up against this periscope. So it was very immersive for the time, and Battlezone is actually considered one of the very first VR games. So you can see that there are these two sticks, and you basically pull on them, both of them move forwards, both of them move backwards, and then you can turn by moving these back and forth, or you can reverse by just moving one, or you can spin around by just moving one. So basically, this is kind of a tank simulator. And in fact, as I understand, the U.S. Army used a modified version of Battlezone as a sort of tank training simulation. It's powered by a 6502. There were 13,000 produced, so we'll find out which one this is. The sides are in pretty good condition. I don't really see a whole lot of major scratches or dings or anything. Obviously, you know, there's a little bit of wear here, but aside from that, it's looking pretty good. So I got this off of Craigslist for $600. The original retail price for this was, let's see, $2,100. So anyway, oh yeah, one thing that I forgot to mention, here's this periscope thing. And people on the sides can look through these windows to also watch the game in play. So that's kind of fun. So you can see also at the bottom, there's this little step here. And that was mainly to help people who were a little short to look through the periscope. Eventually, they produced sort of a regular monitor version without the periscope. And they made, I think it was about 2,000 of those. And that basically allowed small children and small people to play the game. So the listing basically said that it was complete but not currently operational sold as is. So my project is to try to figure out what's wrong with this and get it to work. Rob tries to fix a thing. Don't just spin in place or you will be hit. And here we see the serial number. So it's 9,200. That means this is quite high towards the end of the production run. It only takes three amps. Oh, at 110 volts. Okay. Anyway, this is the back. Oh, that's interesting. It also says 9,200 here. And also U568, whatever that means. Or 11,568 maybe. Anyway, this is the back of the machine. There appears to be a lock here. There was no lock on the other side. So I could probably pick that. There's the switch and the cord. Now, I'm a little reluctant to just plug it in immediately because with older machines, the capacitors can just sort of explode. So it's possible that what I'll do is just sort of take a look inside, take a look at the state of the power supply, maybe plug it in without it being plugged into the actual electronics and see what happens. Well, as you can see, I was able to get the back off because this was sufficiently loose that I could just rotate this. So sometimes the simplest solutions are the best. And let's take a look inside the machine. So here we have what appears to be the power supply. This is the main board and another board up here. Let's see what we've got over here. Those two cylinders that are black up there are for the joysticks. There's a big old speaker over there. The monitor, as we expected, is right up there, pointing upwards. We have the coin machinery. And let's see. Do we have any? That's this. And here's the inside of the box. It looks like I guess this is the coin holder, maybe? Yeah, I guess so. It's just a plastic box. And I guess that's what held the coins. So I'm going to put that aside. And let's see. Oh, we've got some interesting things down here. We have a plastic bracket. We have what appears to be a piece of the coin machinery. No adjustments required. Clean only with hot soapy water. Okay. We've got Norelco miniature lamps made in Italy. And we've got, wow, all right. Don't know what this even is for. Okay. We have another one of these. And we have a couple of loose ones. And another one, another one, another one. And that's the last of them. And we have a post-it note. Nope, we've got a sticker. Warning hazardous voltages. Yeah, yeah. Tell me something I don't know. All right. So here is the input of the power supply. We can see that there is the big transformer over there. And we've got some connectors that are not connected up to anything. I guess they would go to a power supply that isn't installed. But the wires from the power supply do go up to these, I guess, their regulator boards. So we've got a bunch of capacitors on them. And I don't really see any leakage, which is good. That means that I can probably just plug it in and hope. Let's see. I do see a bunch of other capacitors on the main board. So here we have some capacitors. But again, I don't really see any corrosion next to them. That's a little bit, as they would say, how are you doing right over here? Those are supposed to be heat synced in there. They just look like they're hanging on there. And that's not great because they're regulators. I see a 7915, 7805, and a 7815. So that's plus and minus 15 and plus five volts. There does appear to be something about negative five volts on there also. So let's see. Well, so again, it looks in pretty good shape. I could just plug it in and see what happens. Okay, well, I've got it plugged in and I'm going to turn it on and see if anything blows up. Okay, I turned it on and absolutely nothing happened. No sounds, nothing, no hums, nothing. So that says to me that perhaps there's a problem with the wiring. Perhaps there's a fuse that's broken or even missing. So that's the first point of investigation. So looking at this a little closer, it does look like there is a fuse missing. It looks like there are four wires with four fuses. Three of these fuses are four amps and this top one is 20 amps. So I'm just going to have to find a fuse. And there's a spare one. And that actually doesn't look so chunky for a 20 amp fuse. But I'll take a look at it anyway. And all these other ones, these four amp ones look kind of chunky. So that's pretty weird. I'm going to take them out and, you know, make sure that they're actually the right ones. So here we have a diagram from the maintenance manual showing this bundle of wires here is actually a voltage selection plug. So I guess that's how they selected between all of these different voltages. We can also see from the diagram F3, 4, 5, and 6 doesn't appear to be a spare shown. But this is the list of fuses. So we have four amp for F4, F5, and F6, seven amp for F1. Though it looks like that's for 250 volts. So that's probably not installed. And then a 20 amp 32 volt slow blow fuse. And that's the one that's missing. So it says it's F3. If we look inside, F3 is definitely missing. So again, I'm going to pull these fuses and see that they are the correct value and also get a new F3 fuse. One other interesting feature of this is the safety interlock. And it basically turns the machine off when you pull the back of the machine out. So this is supposed to be in basically to turn everything on. Of course, it's not going to turn on without that fuse. And yeah, this is supposed to be like this actually. And apparently pulling it out will allow you to turn the machine on without the back. So anyway, that's how that's supposed to work. Obviously, it's kind of flapping around. And this is supposed to cover it. So that's probably one thing that I should put back. And indeed, it was kind of hard to see, but right over there is another fuse. And that's that 250 volt fuse. So I'm going to have to pull that one as well and make sure that it is correct and working. Right, so here are the fuses that I pulled out. This is the F1 fuse, which is supposed to be seven amps, 250 volts. And I looked at the markings on it. And it says it's seven and a half amps, 32 volts. Okay, so that was definitely the wrong fuse. This one that was in the spare. And I thought was small. That was actually just the reflection. There's a pretty thick wire in here. This is actually correct. It's 125 volts. No, actually, it's 32 volts at 20 amps. So this is the correct fuse. And these are also the correct fuses. These are all four amps at 125 volts. This one, I think, is a little bit odd looking, because it's kind of hard to see, but there's some yellowing in there. It's this one. There's actually some yellowing in there. It's very hard to see on the camera. But so I might just replace that figuring, I don't know, these look really original. So I'm just going to make sure that these fuses are okay with my continuity tester. That's good. That's good. That's good. That one's good. That one is also good. So all these fuses are good. But I'll probably just end up replacing these four amp ones. Because again, one of them looks a little bit skeezy. It looks like there's, well, I mean, there's some glue in there. So in any case, I can certainly use these and, you know, maybe get a new one if one of them blows. Well, the new fuses are in and this is pulled out. And if I pull this out, there we go. We have lights. Oh, that's not good. All right, that's definitely not good.