 What's happening YouTube? Thanks for tuning into the channel today right back here with the rust belt mechanic as you guys can see We got the Duramex back in the shop today Unfortunately, we're not gonna be really doing any kind of major modifications or horsepower upgrades or anything like that for you guys Just yet We've got a ton of those in mind and we got those planned out for the next couple weeks But unfortunately today, we're fixing some broken parts a broken part to be specific would be a Universal joint in the rear driveshaft now when I purchased this truck It seemed to me that this driveshaft was probably an aftermarket one It looks like it's got a couple of stickers a couple of custom little weld spots from where it was Balanced and everything so I think it's a custom driveshaft But as far as we know right now the rear most u-joint on this two-piece driveshaft is bad So we're gonna be changing that one out today Let's play a clip for you guys to see what the sound is that we're trying to take care of in this destroyed u-joint Here's our big old Bessie driveshaft two-piece Mamma Jamma and where we're actually going to be focusing on is here at the Rear-most u-joint and we're gonna look in and see what we can find here looking in at this cup first Doesn't look like we have really much issue with that one Looking at this one lower here Doesn't really look like much issue in there This one over here we're looking like we got some you know a little bit of blown out seals to it But I think our culprit is going to be this one right here You can see the seals pretty much all the way done You see a little bit more red material rust coming out That's going to be from those roller bearings that have failed inside the cups So we've got a an upgraded set here to be able to put in we're gonna take the driveshaft all the way out And then we're going to inspect all of our u-joints just to make sure we're doing good on that one and check our Carrier bearing as well to make sure that one's functioning just fine And actually even though I've already made a video on replacing this transfer case seal I'm gonna have to replace it again because I believe when we put the lift kit in as you can see right here We've got a spacer for the midpoint of the shaft It's not able to adjust back that way far enough So I think when we're getting full articulation on the rear end It's actually pushing that yoke into the rear part of the seal on the transfer case causing us to Sling fluid and leak again. So we're gonna replace that seal and then I think here There is a little oblong hole into the frame right here. We're gonna Kind of just grind it out back way a little bit so we can put that whole driveshaft Back a little bit farther and get a little bit more clearance for it So let's go ahead and get this driveshaft off to be able to get this one off pretty easy Looks like a couple of 10 or 11 millimeter bolts take off the sleeve caps right there and get the driveshaft off Now that you've got it out. We can see kind of what we're talking about here This one right here spins pretty easily. We don't feel a whole lot of binding maybe a little bit this one It's got a little bit of catch to it, but then when we start to spin this this way boy. She She catches a lot and you can see our seals have just kind of gotten destroyed and we can start seeing some red Goop and stuff start coming through some of the rusty little steel rollers. So what we're gonna do now is to get this Out we've got a couple of clips here on either end There and there and then what we're gonna do is we're gonna get a pair of side cuts And we're gonna pinch this and get those clips out of here to start off with Now this end is going to be pretty easy because we don't have a yoke that's on this side So these ones are pretty free So the first thing we're gonna do I just usually use a standard pair of snips to be able to squeeze this lock together Give it a little twist back and forth to break it free and then there's our retainer clip And then our other side Just like so Now what we're gonna want to do is get this thing over to a vise to be able to have something to kind of strike on to get These out So now we've got our driveshaft over to our workbench here where we've got it placed in our vise and how we've got our Vice situated is right here on the two open ends of the u-joint We've got those here on our rails and then what we're gonna do is we're gonna find something that is the diameter of The shaft yoke right here and we're gonna be able to place that on there and just give her some love taps And then as you can see what it's starting to do is this cup is working its way up Through the shaft see we've got approach rooting there scoot it back some We get a little close up here and now you can see how Rusty and crusty we were inside of here all of this dust That's some destroyed bearings inside of there and that's what our failure point was Now all we're really doing is just flipping over doing the same thing to the other side Like I said, we're pretty lucky on this one because this is the open end We don't have another yoke to have to take off at this end Normally if you would you would just flip it over and do the same thing for the yoke side You really don't want to be on this area the driveshaft because you'll probably end up taking one of these ends right here and Bashing them in so then you won't be able to get your clip into there correctly Or putting dents or damaging your actual driveshaft throwing it off balance You'll just end up getting into a whole lot more trouble from that point on Whoever said the sockets weren't impact rated Snap on guys gonna love me that I like so That one had a couple of bearing failures in there is a couple little broken pieces, but It was still working for that point at least But we'll get this thing all swapped out here Now the u-joint that we're going from as you can see on that one A little bit of zoomed in that one had still a little bit of grease and then this one was all crusty and rusty That's the one that we had total failure. So now what we're going to Is a moog super strength Universal joint it does have a greaseable end to it now We're going to have this end because the greaseable part is at a cap So we want that one to be where either a yoke would be but normally is on this one It's going to be the yoke for the Rear end we don't want to put it on this side because Our clips going to be right there in the middle and we don't want that one getting in any kind of way So we're going to want to situate that one on the open faces here Still going to want to use your vise now what you're going to want to do is Take these off very carefully because I don't know if we can see in there There's all kinds of little tiny little roller bearings. So we're going to want to set those Kind of off to the side here nice and neat and then We're going to place this into our area You also want to make sure you clean out the inside part of the driveshaft as well as the ring Where the clips are going to be seating as well Easily put it into that area Now what you're going to want to do is you're going to take your open parts The caps and you're going to lift your bearing up to that point and set it down into the cap Take your hammer very lightly And we're going to start tapping it down into while you're still holding up the universal joint Against that cap. You do not want it to let it fall and let all those roller bearings fall out and go everywhere There we've got it most of the way in and now we can go ahead and roll it over To the other side Now if you've got a little bit smaller universal joints these bigger ones They don't really want to do it that easily you could put it in between your vise and crank it and press it together Or if you have a press you could use that one as well But usually what we like to just have right here in the shop is just our little anvil end on The vise so this one we're going to lift up the joint just a little bit till it starts Into the little bearings Then we're going to start tapping it in Now before you get going too far, we're going to want to find something that's going to be the diameter of the cup But just inside the diameter of the outside ring of our shaft Some people like to use sockets others have special impact tools for your air hammer that matches this diameter I personally I actually have just a simple part This is a doubt a pin out of an american axle that holds your spider gears together Usually that's about the same diameter as most of these cups So we're going to tap this one in until we are able to see That inner ring where our clip is going to go There we are we can see our clip insert and we did not go too far at all So now we're going to get our new bag of clips here And install those with our pair of pliers Now i'm not going to go into too much detail on replacing the seal because like I said I already did one video with this So up here in the description, you know You guys can see that one if you really want to see how to change the seal out So now what we've got to do right here where our carrier goes is we want to be able to move it back that way a little bit more Unfortunately with what we have in the drive shaft, we just have to move it backwards We've got plenty of room on our yoke up front to be able to have plenty of slip to it So these holes right here aren't Hollowed out enough to be able to move the carrier back. So what we've got right here. We've got a nice little carbide bit With a drill and it is roughly the same diameter as the hole So all we're going to be able to do is just grind these down I've already had gone ahead and marked where they were at before And then we're going to move the holes back about an extra half three quarters of an inch That'll give us plenty of room to be able to move it back to where it needs to go All right We've got everything on the center carrier all lined up And then what you're going to want to do is you're going to definitely want to jack up your rear end because Unless you get it dead on exactly on the same spline that you took it off before You're not going to be able to turn the transfer case Not going to be able to turn the rear end So jack up your front end so you can be able to turn this to be able to get the u joints lined up correctly So now we've got our rear bolts all tightened up We preliminarily put the bolts in at the center carrier, but we did not line them up Like I said before we were having the issue with the drive shaft coming forward and touching that seal So we had kind of put those on now What we're going to do is kind of Push that as far back as it will go and then we'll get that one all tightened up as well So now like I said before we went ahead and left our little grease pin and this isn't a standard grease Orc, this is one of the needle style greasers So we've got one of these to be able to put some grease into it There we go. Looks pretty good Alrighty guys. Well that just about wraps up the project Like I said really not that hard of a thing to do Just kind of want to give you guys some insight on what we're doing on that respect So speaking of driveline, you know, I had a little bit of thought into feeling, you know, what we're doing with the Duramax here We're adding all this power. We've got a turbo coming We're probably going to be doing injectors head studs all at the same time So we kind of wanted to do a little preliminary Helping the driveline out So we all know that once you start adding power to these Duramax The failure point is going to be the transmission. You can't expect even an adolescent transmission to be able to hold You know upwards of five six seven hundred horsepower and upwards of a thousand foot pounds of torque from factory standards That's no it just no it's not going to happen. So we're going to have to do some trans updates to it So I thought that I was going to do a full build on this one However, I ran into such a good deal on a one Transmission that is a stage five PPE pre-built transmission that has been run, but very very little So we're actually going to be taking a road trip next weekend to pick that trans up We're going to bring it back here to Ohio And then we're actually going to go through it just to make sure the clutches and everything inside of it Is all hunky dory and we're going to put a different torque converter in it as well as It was kind of a pulling truck. So I don't really need a 2600 stall converter in it So we're going to look for us a new converter keep my eyes peeled out for one of those Well, that's about all I've got for you guys today. Make sure you hit that thumbs up Make sure you subscribe to the channel turn on that bell notification So you get notified when I come out with new awesome content like this one Stay tuned for the nifty tools of the week And if you haven't already make sure you guys go and check out Toolheads crate.com me and jrc 54s little project where we have been making these subscription crate services For technicians and tool lovers all alike for you guys make sure you go and check that one out I appreciate it. Thanks you guys as always You guys stay awesome