 Welcome back to the Archery Dangle Cave, everyone. We've got a rainy day here. It's the perfect day to sit in the Archery Dangle Cave and work on a bow. And what we're going to be doing today is taking a bow that's fresh out of the box, bare-bowed, nothing on it, feels so good, feels so light, and just take this thing and turn it into a bow that is hunt-ready. We've got a brand new, literally just dropped from the last couple days, brand new bow from Bow Tech. So I'm going to show you this bow, and I'm going to show you this bow too that's brand new, that we have already set up and it is ready to hunt. So let's turn one like this, just out of the package, into one like this. So any new bow that you get from any brand these days is going to shoot really nice. They're all great. I really like Bow Tech because they're easy to tune for me. I understand it, I get it. I'm not an expert and I want easy. The first thing that you should do and I would recommend is go to a bow shop and get them to set up your bow. If you have the time, if you've got a bow shop close by, that's probably the best thing that you can do. I like to learn how to set up my bows myself and work on things because sometimes when you're out in the middle of nowhere, you need to know how to do these things if something goes wrong and also you can always have your bow ready to go. Now the first thing we got to do is get a rest and a D loop tied on. I don't have a rest on me right now, so we're going to head to our local bow shop and we're going to get a rest. So let's go. All right, we got our stuff. It's raining out here. Let's get back to the cave. All right, we're back from the bow shop and it's just flooding out there. We've got our rest and it up going with the ripcord lock. This is limb driven. I like the limb driven rest. Just a lot less problems. That can happen and it's easy to set up on your own. Also got a nose button and this is going to be key here shortly. We'll get to that. And I got some, I got some Illuminox just because I was running low. So this bow actually came set at 29. So there's little pins right here and I can see the draw length. It's just three little Allen screws. I'm going to unscrew those and just twist that disc until it lines up on 29.5. Very simple to do. I kind of go in between 29 and 29.5. It just depends on the bow, you know, how it feels to me, but this last bow I set up on 29.5 it seemed to, I really settled in nicely using my release with that, using the thumb release. So we don't even need to press. The only reason we would need to press is if the strings are getting in the way, which they're not, so we can actually do that right here without putting it in a press at all. We got the draw length adjusted. Now I'm just going to triple check that I've got both of these adjusted at the same exact draw length, 29.5. All right, we're dead even. Now it's time to put on the rest. Do not pull rest down past level. Do not take rest apart for any issues. Call Ripcord. All right, thank you for that. Make that nice and obvious for the layman's like myself. I like that. Simple setup, but there is a very important step we need to not forget. We've got our bolt right here. That's going to go through this big hole. There's another small little Allen screw right there. Doesn't have a top cap, all right? It just fits in to these holes right here. I'm going to put it through the middle. I'm going to go ahead and get that started. That is going to secure our sight from twisting on us, which will change our arrow flight. So I'm just using my bench vise. But inside of my vise, I put little wooden blocks and some leather straps on top of that so it's not harming the bow. We want to make sure that we do these steps slowly, precisely, and carefully so that when it comes to arrow tuning, it's going to be a walk in the park. I'm just getting dead level with my eye. Okay, that looks good. Just a double check here, make sure we're good. I'm going to level out my bow on the riser. And then I'm also going to put a level on the rest mount. It looks like we need to go up. That looks pretty daggone close. So now we'll take that little Allen screw, tighten that up. Make sure that's not going to move. Now we'll go ahead and lock this baby down. That looks plumb. That's a plum humdinger. Now I can tell just looking behind the bow at the bow string that it is not lined up properly. So this one has a little micro-adjust, so I'm just moving this over to the left. I know four and a half is going to be pretty close compared to my other bows. All right, that looks pretty good to start. We'll get a better idea once we put an arrow in there, but I just moved it off the factory settings to kind of line up, get behind it, line it up and get it looking decent to the eyeball. The next thing that I like to do is put an arrow on the string and see where it's going to line up with these holes. So I want my arrow, so I'm using a small diameter, micro-diameter, arrow. I want it to line up directly in the middle of those two holes, and that's going to determine my knocking point. Now there's a factory speed knock on here. I'm going to ignore that. That might line up true. Might not. I can already tell you that's lining up on that speed knock pretty well, so it's going to be pretty close. It definitely doesn't always work out this way, but it just happens to turn out. The factory speed knock, that's just where they test an arrow and fling it and get the speed and all that. It is digging and perfectly aligning with the holes in the riser, and my arrow, I've got a little level on here, and that's looking pretty daggum level. So what I will do is instead of having the brass speed knock, I like to tie some serving on there as a placeholder for my knock to go, and then I'll tie the D loop just over that. So I'll take this off and I will put some serving there, and then I'll tie the D loop over that serving, and then right below here on the bottom. Another little step here, I just took a silver sharpie and I marked where my knock should be located. So I just colored that in right below that speed knock. So I'm going to take that off now, and I'll tie that serving right where that speed knock is, just above the silver sharpie. I'm not pressing the bow, I'm just using this to hold it in place. Give me a nice angle to tie this little knocking point in the D loop. Taking our time on all these steps, so the tuning is going to go smoothly. I'm just waxing up a piece of serving right here. I'm going to tie this just above three wraps, that ought to fit nicely. That looks really good. Take some pliers on both sides, lock it baby down. All right, now for the D loop. There's tons of videos online that have a ton of D loops. I'm showing you guys how I set up my bows the way I like them. But you can set them up any way you want. Everybody's a little different, likes a little something different. The main thing is whatever you feel comfortable with and makes you consistent. I'm not going to lie to you, every time I get to this step, I usually have to reference another bow of mine or go watch a video to make sure I'm doing these wraps exactly right. I'm going to look at my other bows, make sure I'm doing this the right way. A little rhyme to remember. First loop towards me, second loop towards the opposite side of the bow. Now we'll do a little snip here, flatten that out. Now you could just use a regular set of pliers on this. We can use some D loop pliers. I'm actually not sure if these will work the way I'm setting this up. That's about three quarters of an inch. That's where I like them. So that's where I like to set mine up. There's just a tiny bit of play. So when that string goes back, it's going to pinch. I always want to make sure it's pushed up that way before I draw back. Now we got our D loop tied on. We've got our rest all level. Everything's level. Next thing that we're going to do is put on a sight. I'm actually just going to take this off an older bow. And I really like this black gold, black gold single pin sight. There's something about their pins. I don't know what they put in them. I don't know what they do, but those pins are really bright. It's a little lighter sight. It's just very solid. I've been very pleased that as I'm getting older, I'm setting up my bows single pin or a dual track that I'll show you guys on my other bow that I like. But I think I like the single pin the best. I'm focusing on the deer, and I'm not or whatever it is, and I'm not looking through a peep. So instead of looking through the string and honing in on that pin, I'm looking at the animal. And the pin is just kind of there. It's out of focus. And I want it to be very bright. So it shows up very well in my out of focus, basically. I like shooting that way. Shooting both eyes open. I can keep my vision on the target. And that way, if I can see how I hit the animal better, I can see where it goes. There's just more detail I pick up after the shot instead of kind of squinting, looking at that pin and having the animal be semi-blurry. So that's the way I like to shoot. This is how I'm setting up my bow for me. I'm not necessarily showing you guys how you should set up your bows. Everyone's different, like I said. So we'll just take this off, and then we will put it right onto our new bow. Now I'm going to level out the bow. First thing I'm going to do is just make sure that that string is just sitting dead level, up and down with the earth. And then I'm going to shift the bow over a little bit to get this bubble dead center. So we're straight up and down this way. Then we're going to make sure we're straight this way. Now if you guys have never put on your own bow sight, don't be intimidated by it. You can do it. If I can do this, I promise you, you can do it. The bow shop is going to do it better. But if you want to do it yourself or something online, that's great. You need to have a level or preferably a couple of levels. Now I'm going to recommend something. You know, I ordered this little leveling kit off Amazon, which was very cheap. Really the only thing that I use now is the arrow level. They're very cheap. Like I said, they do OK. But the company Hamsky makes some really good products. And I got one of these for working on my bows this year. And it is a major difference. And it also helps you when you get to that third axis adjustment, which that can be confusing. This tool makes it pretty simple to do. I'll have this in my Amazon store below. You can get one if you want. Give me some points. But it's the Hamsky Gen 2 Pro. And it really allows you to do the first, second, and third. So instead of using this little string level, I've got the Hamsky on the string. Because I've just found comparing the two and putting other levels on, which I highly recommend having another little level, simple home tools. Put it on there as well, on your flat spots, on your riser. Just check, check, check. Make sure everything's level, level. Do not rush this process. The big difference in not taking your time on this and then really taking your time is your broad heads flying like your field points. That's the goal. That's what you want. So if you do all these steps right, you shouldn't have to mess with tuning your bow very much from your field points to your broad heads. OK. I feel really good about that. Now I'm going to take the string level off or take the Hamsky off the string. And I'm going to set it right here on the site itself. OK. Now our string is level, level all the way around. Now we're going to adjust our first axis, which is going to be right here. We're going to loosen these top and bottom screws. Now that the site frame is level, I'm just going to tighten these up and make sure that they are not going to move as I'm tightening. Make sure the bubble doesn't move. Sometimes when you put torque on them, they can shift around. To the first axis, we're looking good. All right. Now second axis is going to be the bubble on the site housing itself. So on the black gold to adjust this, I'm just loosening these two screws ever so slightly. I'm going to slide my wrench in here and just kind of torque it a little bit. There we go. Now we're level on our second axis. Now we can tighten that up. I'm just going to shift the tool this way on the housing. So on the third axis, we just want to make sure leaning the bow down at a 45 that everything lines up, bubble to bubble. It does. Now that will actually change on most bows when you draw them back. So on the Hamsky tool, there's a rod right here that you can align with a vertical line at a 45 on your draw. And then you can make the third axis adjustment. Now that we got our rest set up on our limb, we've got our sight, we've got our D loop, knocking point. It's time to pull back the bow for the first time. That's pretty exciting. Yeah, every bow is different. They all feel a little bit different. And I may not hit the target, so I'm going to choose one of my lesser arrows for this. We'll get a feel for this draw cycle, make sure length and everything feels pretty good. Yep, draw length feels good. Boy, that came off on a hair trigger right there. I'm going to have to get used to that. Oh, I got to shoot that again. Definitely high, so we're going to have to move this up. All right, one more shot right here. And actually, our windage looks pretty good. It sits on there. Yeah, our windage is almost perfect. The back wall on this bow just feels really good to me. It's a little heavier to start this bow. The core SS, which stands for super smooth, obviously a little smoother all the way through the draw. The brace height on this is just so low that it just pushes that energy all the way to the last second. So I've got a chronograph. I'm going to be interested to see the speed between this bow and the core SS. Back to the cave, let's get her dialed. Paper tuning. This is the most important step, in my opinion, when you get a bow and you dial it in is to make sure that arrow is flying straight. But this is the simplest way I have found at my garage, at my place to do this. I've done it inside the garage, but using just the garage door and clamping some paper, make sure it's not super windy, which we've got a nice calm day, we're good. I put a couple of clamps at the bottom for some weight and I'm going to be sitting on a bucket and I'm shooting at a target right here. You want to make sure that your target is enough distance away from your paper that your arrow can fly all the way through and just make sure you don't have anything back there. I've already moved my wife's car. Make sure there's not another person, another house, anything like that, if you're going to do this. So the whole goal here is to get a bullet hole. So let me take you inside here. We'll face this way, fling an arrow. One more step that I'll mention. Before this, take your set of calipers. You can use a ruler, but calipers are the best. And just measure the distance on the front of your riser to the back, where your rest is, and measure it to the arrow. And just make sure it's the exact same distance. That way, you're on a great starting point with your arrow being straight lined up with your string. We'll make sure we have a good release. We knocked our target over, but we've already got a perfect bullet hole. I was actually hoping for something a little less perfect than that, so I could show you guys the tuning and the deadlock system that is on the Votek. Just so you know, for tuning this, you can get left, right, up and down. Now, up and down has to do with your rest and you're gonna have to raise that up and lower it. The windage, or left and right, you can adjust that by dialing the deadlock system, and that's moving the cam side to side. I'm gonna shoot one more time just to make sure, but that is a bullet hole, first try. And I gotta tell you, the let off on this bow, compared to the Core SS, it is major difference. And I love it, because that's how my CP-28 was. Had a ton of let off, and I just, I'm just not as jumpy. I'm not as jumpy with my release. Don't have to put as much back tension. That always helps, so now I'm thinking, ooh, I might be hunting with this bow instead of the Core SS. Took four shots, two are perfect bullet holes, couple are almost perfect. This bow is speaking to me. I'm vibing. I am vibing with this bow. I don't know. To see what I like about both bows right now, this bow just feels good to me. It always helps when you fire a bullet hole in the first shot too. That's saying something. All right, nose button time. Now, this is probably where, I'm probably gonna get the most comments in the video, and it's, why are you not using a peep? Without a question, using a peep, you are going to be more accurate. No question, but as I already stated, I can't see as good as I used to, especially through a small diameter peep. I just don't enjoy shooting through a peep as well. Obstructs my vision as far as looking at the animal. So the best way for me to have a reference point, obviously my anchor, okay, that's one, and then having a reference on the string. I could just put my nose right on the string, but sometimes it could be up, it could be a little bit down, just depending. And that little bit of difference for each of my nose up and down could make a huge difference on target. So I have to be consistent. With a nose button, there is no question. Like this thing actually hurts a little bit. Like if you dig it in to your nose, so I know I'm on the exact spot I need to be, and that is keeping everything in line. Now when I'm first putting this on, I'm not going to tie it in very good just yet. All right, now that that's on there, got kind of a hold on it, we'll draw back and then I'll move it around. That let off is insane. I'm just gonna take a little red Sharpie and mark it top and bottom where it needs to be. There we go. Okay, so once I got it set and I got my marks, I actually took the, just the simple little square knot out. I'm gonna slide it down exactly where I had it marked. And I put a finishing knot on here. And this is, I think it's called a constricting knot. And that will literally constrict around this thing when I cinch it up. It is really tight. And then we will put a stop knot on top just to make sure we don't lose our place. Okay, one little side end session before the sun goes down. We're a little high and right. Yeah, we're very, very close. We'll take a look at that. Maybe just a touch high. Touch high, maybe a click or two to the right. That's it guys. We'll go ahead and tie that stop knot in for our nose button. We'll be good to go for the tomorrow morning. We'll get the final side in and get our sight tape put on, get our speed and everything. Well, we're back at it again. It's another soggy one too. So a couple little adjustments this morning, just on the sight and boom, we got two shots right in the center at 20. Pretty darn close. That's what we're looking for to continue the process. I just had a curiosity. I'm going to put the chrono on here. So the core SS was running right around 275. And my sight tape that I used, I ran from shot at 20 yards, 60 yards, measured the distance on the sight, mashed it up on the sight tape and that ended up being 289.5. This is a really cheap chrono, so I don't know if it's off or what, but I like to go with the actual shooting, the distance 20 and 60. I just think it's more consistent. But I am interested to see which bow is going to chrono faster. IBO speed doesn't really mean that your bow is going to shoot that fast. 272.4, very comparable. Very comparable to core SS. At core SS, like it just feels like the fastest bow I've ever shot. Just looking at it, especially shooting both eyes open. I'm like, Godly, I can barely track that arrow. Just getting to the target so quick. One more here, 271. So this bow is just a few feet per second slower, but the let off is insane. So I just feel like that core SS, it just, boom, it's a surprise shot. It's a quicker bow, definitely a quicker bow, but this one, I just feel more comfortable with it. So if we're doing the math on the sight tapes, basically adding around 10 feet per second to what the sight tape is, that's going to be around 282. 282, somewhere around there. I'm guessing is what our sight tape is going to be. So we'll keep that number in mind. We'll actually shoot out to 60 now, and then we'll measure those marks and make the comparison. So what I added when I got to 20 yards, I tied one of those constrictor knots at the top of my nose button, so that way it won't slide past that. I know that's where it needs to be. And my sight is in the highest position. So this is going to be a default for me, 20 yards all the way up. That's 20. And I'm going to mark that as precise as I can. All right, so I got my pencil mark on there. Now we're just going to move down. I'm going to go ahead and dial it a little bit, where I think 30 is probably, probably about right there. We'll shoot 30 and we'll just keep moving this down till we get 60 where it needs to be. And then we'll put a mark right there and measure the distance between the two with a sight tape. That was exactly 30. So we'll just keep bumping down where I think 40 is. Keep working back. Keep going. I'm going to move some of this brush out of the way. Should be pretty close to 60 right here. All right, let's go check it out. Okay, we were a little low. So I'm just going to bump the sight down a little bit. Should be pretty close. Just a scotch low. Just going to take another shot to confirm. Yeah, just a little bit low. Both of those. Just another little bump. I feel like I kind of pulled that shot. Yep, we're a little high right there. So I'm going to go back. I'm going to do one more round. I think we're going to be set. So it took it like a 10 minute break, came back and shot a couple of times. Feel good about the consistency. So now it's time to match up our sight tape. Now the Chrono 272, I feel like it's going to be anywhere from five to 10 more feet per second faster. That's kind of how my other though ended up. So we'll just check the sight tapes and see what matches exactly. And we'll just, we'll start at my guesstimate here, 279. That is very close. 280.5 seems to be it. We'll try, we'll try 282. I think that's going to be a little off. All right, 280.5 it is. So for final tests, we're just going to set ourselves up at a odd distance and check the dial right at 30, 30 would be fine. Make sure this is good. And then we will test the broad head. And that'll be the final, final test. Make sure we're ready for the woods. Good to go, captain on that one. Just to make sure, I'm still, I'm hitting a little left, I'm noticing. Still got some fine tuning to do there, but I want to make sure that my broad head is, is going in that general direction, really darn close to where that last arrow that I just shot is. I'm going to pull the arrow because I've definitely shot arrows with the broad heads right after and ruined the fletchings. In this case, my feathers on the other arrow or run the arrow itself. So I'm going to pull that one, memorize it, shoot the broad head. Iron will 125. Here we go. Just hear that thing zinging. It looks to be just to the left, right where our last arrow went, pretty much exactly. So I just need to adjust my sight over to the left to dial that in, but the broad heads fill points are flying the same. So guys, this bow is done. Carbon 1X feeling ready to get some. This is the big decision I need to make. Am I going to stick with the core SS or am I going to go to the Carbon 1X? This one, I'm shooting it right now and it just, it is smoother. It just doesn't have the lead off. The shot break just feels better. I got to get one and stick with it though because there's little differences that make my accuracy will change my accuracy. I'm just, I'm sort of dialed with this one because I've been shooting it for weeks now. Both bows are set up and ready to hunt guys. I think I'm going to go with this one just because I've been shooting with it more and they just both feel really great. But both the core SS and the Carbon 1X, they're great bows. One thing I will point out on the core SS, if you guys are interested in these bows, this does have the new center mass mounting system for the sight, which is really cool. You know, it puts it into the frame of the bow instead of attaching it off to the right side or left side, just depending on which way you shoot. Just adds more stability. I think it's more solid. I like that a lot. So that's one of the differences. They both have the time lock, both have the deadlock obviously. And they're both set up the same. Everybody's got their preferences on bow setups. That's just mine. I like mine very simple, good and low light and in particular to my eyesight and the way I like to shoot. My arrows, I'm shooting the VAP TKOs. I'm shooting 125 green iron wheel broad heads. And then I'm using feathers as my fletching. So different strokes for different folks, but I have found that the feathers fly really well. The only downside to them is when they get a little wet, they're gonna fly a little different, but they'll actually collapse around cover, which is cool. So you can kind of shoot through brush and they're a little bit lighter. So your arrow will change weight a little bit and get a little better FOC on there. So thank you guys for tuning in to this bow build, stay tuned for next video. Next couple of videos, we're gonna be doing some white tail hunting. Gonna take one of these and probably gonna take a traditional bow as well and get after some white tail deer and do some harvesting. Can't wait. So thank you guys for being here. Thumbs up, smash it and I'll see ya on the next one.