 Today it's time to take my Ender 3 that has the TH3D Dual Z and the printer mod's direct drive and make it silent with a 32-bit board. My name's Jim and this is the Edge of Tech. Today I'm going to take this brand new TH3D easy board and we're going to install it on my Ender 3. I think I need some help with that though so let's see if I can find some. I don't have Caleb, it doesn't work. Ladies and gentlemen, Tim from TH3D. I heard this guy snapping all the time. Yeah, we can't poof anymore. I know. I don't have Caleb and that doesn't work. So like I said, today we're going to work on the TH3D easy board. Tim's actually up here in Wisconsin today so he popped by and he thought he would help us out. This should be a pretty awesome and very easy install. The cool things about the TH3D easy board, it's a direct drop-in replacement. There is no need to do any other prints or mounting or use the stock screws. There's nothing. Some cool things about the board. It's got a drop-in replacement. No need to print any mounts. Use the stock screws and it's literally pulling a cable out and putting it into the same port in the same area on the new board which is going to be very cool. It is a 32-bit board which should give us not only tons more storage on the board but with Marlin 2.0 it's going to let us expand forever now. I mean, it's just beginning really. Yeah, so Marlin 2.0, the reason we went 32-bit is not necessarily for performance improvements right now but it's more the fact that as Marlin 2.0 starts evolving that we're going to be able to bring those features to our board. The specific chip reason is LPC1769 and it's one of the most stable and reliable chips for Marlin 2.0 right now. Awesome. Well, not only that but it uses the TH3D firmware which we'll go over later in the video and it runs the silent TMC228. It runs the silent TMC228 stepper drivers which give you really smooth motion, quiet motion and a little bit better print quality because you're going at 1.256 of a microstep and it's taking that 1.16 step right from Marlin and stepping it up to that. So each one of those chips actually has its own process around it that handles all those algorithms and math to make that happen. So it also comes with the dual Z motor adapter which is this one right here and I'll show that close up in a minute and you give this to everyone that orders the board? Yeah, so they don't cost us too much but all that this does is we have one Z motor port on here so this allows you to plug this into the board and if your printer has two physical motor connections for your Z motors this just runs them in parallel so you can run two motors off one. Something like the CR10 variations that you see? Yeah, and the Creality boards that have two Z ports they're doing the same thing that board is just on the motherboard level so to keep this footprint of this smaller we have it off board. Perfect. The other thing you can get is a dual cable LCD and these are like five bucks. I'll also take this out and show it in a minute but what this does is it allows us to plug it into the board and if your LCD has two cables you can use it right from this, right? Yeah, so this is just an adapter so for printers like the CR10S not the CR10 but the CR10S is the only one right now that has dual cables what this will do is you plug this into the board and you can plug your EXP1 and EXP2 port cables into here and that LCD will also work with this board. Perfect. And that does not come with this as a normal kit especially for the under three because you wouldn't need it. Yeah, this is only required for like a couple models so if you don't have a CR10S you don't need to spend the extra five dollars that's why we don't bundle it with it because they're a little expensive to make and most people are not going to need them. But we wanted to show it today just so they know they can get it. Yeah, and that's an option you just check the little box and it adds it on. Cool, so let's do it. So this is everything we got from TH3D. We have the EasyBoard Lite V1, the version one here. It does come with the cable and the dual Z adapter and this is the other one that I wanted to show you. So if you have a CR10S you'll need this piece. It's five bucks, you'll have to buy this separately but it'll allow you to plug both your monitor cables in. This does not come with the kit on a regular basis so we're going to take that out. And we'll need the Allen wrench here and a small flathead screwdriver and that's all we're going to need to install this. So the first thing we're going to do is take out the three screws or bolts that are in the top and this isn't Ender 3, it's not the Ender 3 Pro so the three bolts are going to be right in the top here. So we're going to take those out using the Allen wrench that came with the kit. So once you get the three bolts, one, two, and there's one in the back here, three, this is that fan cover I printed in one of my earlier videos. We take that off, then we're going to take off this cover here and you want to be very careful because as you can see here, here is the fan cable. So make sure you pull that out and don't just rip it out otherwise your fan will stop working. So the next thing we want to do is remove the screws that hold the board down into the control box here. So can you show us where those four screws are? There's one right here between the X and Y plugs, one to the right of your E motor plug behind the SD slot. There's one between this little coil here and the capacitor by the MOSFET heat sink. And then the fourth one is by your power input terminal right back here. So there's four screws, so one, two, three, four that need to be removed. So when you get the four screws out from the board and some of them are pretty tight, so be careful. The next thing we want to do is take out your SD card very carefully because you don't want to break it and you don't want to break the port. So this is the back of the bed. We have it pulled all the way forward. And if you look back here, there's a big cable loom that runs underneath your frame into your board. So what we're going to do is push this cable loom through the front underneath the frame and that would give our board some slack to slowly lift out. So like I said, we're going to use the loom in the back. We're going to lift our board up slowly and we're just going to pull that loom through very slowly. Something to note, if you have any additional things like you see our easy ABL connection here or anything like that, just be careful when you're moving this board. You don't want to break those wires. So something to note when we start, Tim pointed out that these are all hot glued and what you want to do is get that hot glue off of each of these individual connectors before you start this process. The reason is, the creativity uses hot glue to hold everything in place so it doesn't come loose. But if you go pulling these wires straight out, without getting that hot glue, you can break those wires pretty easily. So now that everything's loose and we got the glue off here, we're literally going to take and go one for one into the board. So we're going to take this display cable, put it in here, and all of the ports here on the board are lined up exactly like the Creality board. Alright, so we didn't get enough glue off of this one. So what happened? The actual header piece came off of the Creality board and you can literally just pull it off like you did and torch this back onto the pins. Just make sure you get the right direction. So if you don't get all the glue off, when you go to pull your cable out, it will actually pull the header piece right off the board. So that's one reason to get all the glue off. And it does just go back on. It's not a big deal to just press it on when you're ready. So now what Tim's doing is just putting the wires back in the board. On the very end, it goes black then red from the outside to the inside. And he's working on that now. And we're literally just going to put everything back together the way it came off this board. Do them next to each other and do one-to-one if you want. Or you could label each of these as you take it out, but most of them are labeled from Creality. Now one thing to do if you get these wires in the screw terminal, now you don't want to hulk these down. You want to tighten these down. But just give a little tug and make sure they stay in the terminal. If they do, you're good. If not, then you need to loosen the screw back up, straighten the wires out, put it back in, tighten it down, and then test it again. Alright, as you can see now, everything is reconnected and the board is in. Now we did not put the screws in, so we didn't screw it back down, but it's very important to note that the layer fan, which is the blue and yellow wires here, they go in this header right here, which is closest to the edge of the board. Make sure that you plug, when you put your top cover back on, you plug it into this one right here. So the next thing we need to do is just install the screws back in to mount the board to the case. Alright, now that we have the board screwed down in, everything is secured and ready to go. Now what you want to do is go over to TH Streeties website and look at their firmware installation guide. The reason I say that is because it is Marlin 2.0, it's changing and being dialed in, and Tim has some really cool stuff coming up that is actually going to make this a little bit easier for everybody to do. So if I were to film the firmware install for now, it would actually be irrelevant in about a week. So go to TH Streeties website, I will put the link in the description below. Tim's video on how to install the firmware for the easy board. With that being said, what we're going to turn this thing on, we have installed the firmware and it's going to beep like that, that is normal. So he's auto-homing now and it's going to go to the left, it's going to do the Y, and it's going to start going down. Now if you have an easy ABL, you want to go ahead and touch the sensor and just make sure it stops. The reason for that is if you had the wires inverted, this is the older version of the easy ABL, so you can't just do the little flip switch like the new version has, so you'd have to switch the wires in the back here. But it looks like it's correct, it was coming down, it stopped, and you always want to test that before it gets all the way down because you don't want to crash. Perfect, and we're auto-homed and that was dang near silent. The loudest thing about this printer right now is this fan, and that's all I can hear right now. The next step, we're going to turn this back off, we're going to push the bed back and put our cover back on the front here, and then we're going to be done. So this is the cover, we want to put it in here and remember to put it in that, excuse me, that second header here. Put the top cover back on, make sure your cables are all run like they should be in my case. I have the easy ABL wires coming out of the side here. And take your three screws, reattach them, and that'll tighten in your top case. So I thought it would be cool to see what the difference in the sound is using a decibel meter that I found for my phone. So I have it on, the fans are on full blast, I'm going to set the decibel meter here and let it sit. And we're going to do an auto-home and see if we can watch this. So we've got about 62 as the max on the end of three here. Let's jump into the one with the easy board on it. I move this over, and I'm going to hit start to get a baseline, and then I'm going to hit auto-home just like we did with the other one. So that's it. As you can see, I talk and it goes real high here, but I only saw it go to about 48 when it was auto-homing on this one. It is super, super quiet. You cannot barely even... I mean, the loudest thing really is the fans on these things. These are the original fans. They're pretty dang loud, and I think that's pretty cool. So what we've got was 63 max decimals on the ender 3 with the stock Creality board and about 48 on this one with the easy board on it. So that's it. We just installed the TH3D easy board on the ender 3 over here. We went through the sound test and I tell you this thing is much quieter than the stock one was. And it's pretty awesome, and it was really simple to do. This is the old board. If you're not filming it, all in all it takes about 10 minutes to swap the board, and then check out TH3D's site on how to compile the firmware. Because that's evolving as we go we did not want to shoot that, and then this video would be outdated in about a week. So I figure it's best to separate this keep this on the hardware side of things but we will be putting out more videos on the firmware specific for this board and also pre-compiled binaries for the files. You can always check out if you need help with the board. You can go to forum.th3dstudio.com we have a whole section there and that's where we do all the support Perfect. Well, that was pretty awesome I'm going to love this thing, it's a lot quieter I know. It's awesome how quiet it is but now I'm going to have to order quiet fans so I guess that's going to be my next TH3D purchase as better fans. I hope you learned something today and as always, keep printing. Hey, it's me. I hope you liked the video if you did give me that thumbs up below please click that subscribe button down here and the little notification button with the bell that will notify you every time we put a great video out I hope you loved it and as always you guys rock!