 It's a little bit cold outside, so what better time than now to do this capillary tube that we found the other day to be bad on the Pepsi machine slash little reaching glass cooler. First thing we're going to do is get the cooler unloaded and get everything out out of the way. We're going to yank off these panels so that we can get into the capillary tube and the return suction line. We've now exposed the evaporator. Kind of nasty. The accumulator insulation is pretty well falling off. There must have been a lot of oil on it. Which means the fan is probably going to be failing fairly soon. We're going to heat that up, pull it out with a pair of pliers. Makes it a little easier. Alright, since this is 12 foot long, I'm not going to tear all this insulation off. It's super hard. This will make a mess. So we're going to take it straight from the filter dryer, wrap it around it, and then up. It'll conduct all the sub-cooling and stuff off the pipe on the inside of the cooler. Shouldn't sweat back here. We can always insulate it if we need to. Cutting out the other filter dryer that was in there. Going to swedge it. So we can mount the filter in. Going to braze in the new capillary tube. Inspect our braze joint, making sure it's not leaking. We're going to chop off a couple inches off this capillary tube, so no worries whether we get something inside of the capillary tube as we're shoving it through the bottom of the cooler. We're going to strap that to the suction line with some silver tape, and we've got to insulate the suction line at the top, that way it doesn't drip down. We're just doing a quick mounting of the capillary tube to the suction line here. Get our nitrogen ready, pull our valve core out, purge the system with any air or leftover refrigerant that might possibly be in the system. Go ahead and get her brazed in. We've got the hot block on the filter dryer, and we do have nitrogen flowing. Inspect our joint. Remove the hot block, and we're going to go ahead and put that back in the container. So far, it's stuff's been pretty cool. Okay, we're going to do a pressure test now on it, make sure everything's sealed. Get our high side gauge hooked on there, spraying for leaks now, big blue. I'm using my fingers to spread it around the braze joint. I don't see nothing leaking up in there, 140 was supposed to be the max. This video was well over an hour long, so I chopped it down pretty good so that you aren't sitting there in dead space watching me doing stupid stuff. That's going to be hot there, so it's not going to condensate. You're going to get all of your subcooling going on there on the suction line. We're insulating at the top. Need to check up top there for leaks, make sure there's nothing up there. And I did not find any leaks. So we're going to go ahead and get the vacuum pulled, and I'm going to find out that this does not want to pull down very quickly because of all the moisture. You've got to wire ties on everything, then chop those off, get her back together. Here's an example of a wet system. This thing went up fast, 15 to 18 microns a second. And it's finally coming down to 7, but we're still 3,500 and rising quickly. The oil obviously has a crap load of moisture in it. Filter dryer is about the only way you're going to get all of it out. So we're going to have to let this thing pull for a little longer, then we have to come back and change the dryer again. All right, I did one double evacuation. We're going to do another one. It's getting better, but it's still not worth a crap. I end up doing a total of three evacuation processes with nitrogen breaking at each time. What I'm doing here is demonstrating that the compressor as we knock it around, it makes it release the refrigerant or moisture that's in the compressor's oil. Generally after doing this, it tends to pull down a lot quicker than leaving it alone and just setting and waiting. We're going to go ahead and get her started back up, get the last bit of refrigerant pulled into the system. Pressure's looked a little bit better compared to the negative that I had before. It's getting colder. We're going to put the valve cores back into the system. I'm bleeding the valve core prior to sealing it and shoving it in. I didn't want to get that little bit of air or whatever inside of the system. It's one of those small fine details that probably won't make a huge difference, but to me it does. Now you tell me how you can trust these gauges when you've got them unhooked and you're talking low pressure refrigerant that runs 14 to 18 pounds of pressure and you're off by three every time. These things are garbage. And I'm still pissed off that Testo does not stand by. They brought it to Testo and they did absolutely no response back. They did not even care enough to respond to my email that I confronted them about the poor service. And I feel as though they overpriced their parts. I got 38 degrees in there and dropping. I unhooked and re-hooked my gauges so I got to dump my liquid back in, but it's about 70-72 in here, so 82-92, 102, about 25 to 30 degrees over ambient. Suction's a little lower than I like to see. There could always be a little bit of a difference in the capillary tubes. It just seems that they're never perfect after change. I'd rather see that up there around 15 to 18. She hit temperature, 29 degrees. Oh, good. Basically added an extra ounce or two by accident, but it seems to not have affected anything. Subkaline's not out of this chart. It looks to me like she's equalizing out pretty good. I'm going to go ahead and dump it back in and get out of here. Oh my gosh, they actually have to get to zero when they're using it for very long. It's hard to believe. We went into a negative now. It's even better yet.