 So I use magic sculpt clay to craft all of my creations. The problem with magic sculpt is that this clay, when cured, becomes very heavy. And this is a problem for specifically horse sculpture because they're on tiny frail legs, and if the body itself is too heavy, your legs are going to crack. This clay is also expensive. It's hard to mix in large quantities. This is where freeform air comes in handy. Hey everybody, it's DJB. Welcome to my channel. If you're new here, my name is Darian. I'm a model horse artist, and I've been sculpting and repainting realistic model horses since 2017. If you've seen my previous how it's made videos, you'll notice that I use a lot of freeform air. The biggest thing about this clay is it is super lightweight, and that's exactly what we want as filler for anything we're doing. If you're taking a wire armature covering it in tinfoil and then putting all epoxy sculpt onto it, it's going to be really heavy, really fast. It's hard for you to hold onto. It's hard for the legs to sustain your more prone to cracking and breaks and damage. If you take your wire armature, your tinfoil, and you apply some freeform air, being that this is so lightweight, we're going to be able to create a really thin layer of epoxy on top of it in order to create the final sculpture. Freeform air is a product by the company Smooth-On. It comes in a trial unit of 1.8 pounds, or a gallon unit of 6.8 pounds, and so the trial unit ranges around the 35-ish dollar range, whereas the gallon unit ranges around the 110-ish dollar range. I bought the gallon because I used quite a bit of this stuff. They sent me like a gallon of the Part A, and then a bunch of tiny containers of Part B, and that's because the Part B is the fast part. So the Part A is the same for all the freeform air products. The Part B is either the fast or the regular, because that's the hardener that creates the faster reaction or the slower reaction. Freeform air is a two-part epoxy dough. It's the same idea as an epoxy sculpt or a magic sculpt clay. You mix equal parts, Part A, Part B. It's a resin and a hardener. The Part A is a magical experience. This stuff is very white. It feels like a marshmallow in your hands. Part B, the hardener, is also a little bit fluffy. It's not as fluffy as the Part A. It's gray in color. This stuff is a dream to mix together. It feels like a cloud in your hands. So fun. The Part B is a little crumbly, so sometimes in general this stuff can get a little bit crumbly, so be careful not to drop it in your carpet. It will mash into your carpet and mash into your clothes. It also comes in two variations, a regular version and a fast version. And I personally really like the fast version for what I do because this is not for sculpting details. This is for the preliminary base. So I like the fast version because I can create an armature. I can cover this armature in tinfoil, tape, toilet paper rolls, whatever I need to create kind of the structure of the animal. And then I can apply Freeform air fast to that whole thing and that hardens everything up in a relatively short curing time where I'm able to make adjustments and continue working without having to wait the full 24 hours for things to cure. The regular version has a 30 minute pot life with a two and a half hour working time and the fast version has a six minute pot life with a 30 minute working time. A full cure on both of these products over 24 hours. It's a chemical reaction the same as any other epoxy putty. The two parts mixed together, the reaction starts right away. So I find with this stuff, especially the fast stuff, if you're mixing like a lot of it, it gets really hot. So you have to be careful because if you're using a tinfoil or a wire base that creates heat, you can burn yourself. So it's actually not recommended mixing it together and leaving it in a big ball because it gets really hot in the center and it starts to cure up the center. So if you flatten out your larger pieces of mixture, that helps dissipate the reaction. The smaller the mixture, you use the longer it takes to cure. So if you're using a lot, like I said, it will start to react really quickly. So you have to work fast with the fast, obviously, but if you don't want that pressure, you can get the slow version. If you're going to be sanding this stuff, probably wait your full 24 hours. You can get away with it sometimes like rushing into it, but it does have like a doughy consistency still. I do not use this for any detail. This is purely base work and really basic shape work. And I find that when you sand down this clay or even just leave it as you sculpt it on, it creates a perfect base for epoxy to go on top of because it leaves a little bit of texture and then the epoxy or magic sculpt in specific really wants to stick to it. The biggest thing with this stuff, though, is it's very toxic. It smells very bad. There is no optional if, ands, or buts about not wearing a respirator and not wearing gloves. Like you must wear a respirator. You must wear gloves and probably do this in a ventilated area if you're going to be using a lot of this stuff because it smells like sulfur. Also very messy. So the gloves are very useful because this stuff gets really crazy really fast. This stuff sands really easily as well. It turns to a crazy dust. So you 1000% also want to use a respirator with particulate filters on it when sanding. So I use 2097 particulate filters while sanding this and it sounds really well with the Dremel. It's messy. It's not super refined and even while sculpting with it, it's sticky, messy, and hard to refine. And it's not meant to refine. It doesn't love sticking to things either. So if you're working on like a foam base or plastic base or wood base, you kind of have to like mash it in there and it wants to resist a little bit. The key to success is isopropyl alcohol. You can smooth that isopropyl right on there and it will smooth out the surface. While I'm using this stuff, I honestly don't make it perfect. Like I said, it's to make the shape. I'm going to sand the crap out of this. I'm going to sculpt over top of this with epoxy or magic sculpt. This is not the final form of the sculpture. This is just a filler base and it keeps everything really light. So an example here I put on the scale a sculpture that was created solidly through epoxy and a sculpture that was created with if reform air in the inside. The epoxy sculpture wasn't even complete. It has no hair on it yet. No detailing. It still would need probably another 100 grams worth of clay added to it. We save over 100 grams of weight. So it makes a big difference and just feeling those in my studio and like having to paint them, having to work with them, having lightweight is super imperative. It is Chef's Kiss. Some of the best stuff I've used and I would highly recommend checking it out, getting it for your studio. I've had a ton of questions about this so hopefully this answers it for you. If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to leave a comment down below. You can also email me at any time. Make sure to like this video if you want more content like this and subscribe to my YouTube channel. It helps more than you know. So thank you so much for watching. This has been DJB. Happy sculpting. I also now have a Patreon if you want to support me further. Link is in the description.