 What's up guys, welcome to today's video. On the video today, we are going to be focusing on a back to basics haircut. This is a haircut, yes, from beauty school. It's the 180 degree haircut. The reason I wanted to go over this haircut today is I really wanted to focus on fundamentals and I also want to explain why these haircuts are important. So this is all part of a series that I'm putting together for FSE On Demand. That is a free app available on iOS and Android. So if you guys haven't downloaded the app yet, make sure you head on over to your local app store. FSE On Demand is a great tool for being able to just look up something to use in the salon. It's straight education. There's not only me on there, but there's other artists as well that we have filmed in our studio. So it's an amazing tool, obviously an amazing price. So go check it out guys. All right, so we're gonna get started with the video. If you have any questions, post them in the comments below. Here we go. What's up guys, welcome to today's video. On the video today I'm gonna be focusing on a haircut straight out of hair school. Now this is a fundamental haircut called the 180 degree haircut. Basically everything's gonna be lifted straight up from the head. You'll notice my sectioning was very basic, the basic four quadrants. So I go right down center back all the way down and then I go at the division point from the high point of the head down to behind the ear. And then I start taking right in the very front of the head, my section straight up. Now the key to this haircut and having success with the haircut is to take very small fine sections, about half an inch wide. Take about 70% of your old cut, like the cut or the hair that you just cut and then add in 30% of new hair. That's going to make sure that you have a nice clean guideline and you're not over directing the hair too far away from where it lives so you get a nice clean line as you lift up the hair and cut it. So you could see everything's coming straight up from the head, not being over directed at all, just straight up and out. Now besides working on fundamentals, the reason I wanted to create this series of haircuts to really focus on the back to basics is really just understanding the reasoning behind these haircuts. Now it's not one that you're gonna go and you're gonna transfer it to all your guests this is your layering technique, this is how you're gonna layer everybody's hair, that's not what it's all about. What this is about is being able to work the fundamentals, learn how to layer hair and then you can transfer that into different things. So this is all straight up from the head but then there's other techniques where you're gonna over direct the hair but this is in the most basic form creating layers on the head shape. So another basic fundamental of haircutting is not cutting past your second knuckle. Now I wanna discuss this because a lot of people think don't cut past your second knuckle because you might cut yourself. Well, just so you guys know, I have cut my first knuckle many, many times. So it really has nothing to do with cutting your knuckles, it has everything to do with tension. So when we talk about tension, why is tension important in a haircut? Well, if you don't have the same tension throughout your section, if the tip of your finger is holding the hair tighter than the inside of your finger, then the hair on the inside of your finger is gonna be loose and when it's loose, it's kind of pulled out and then when you cut your line, you don't get your nice hard line. So a lot of people think I need to hold the hair tight, I need to comb it tight, all of these things. Well, when you do that, you're pulling the hair where it wants to naturally live. So honestly, lighter tension on most hair types is kind of the way to go throughout in most hair cuttings just saying in general, right? But there are times where you need tighter tension, there's times where you need even less tension, like when you're working around a cowlick area, you wanna really be light on the tension because you don't wanna pull the hair too far from where it wants to naturally fall. So those are kind of key things. So just really focus on that tension, don't worry about the second knuckle thing so much, just understand that your tension's gonna be different past your second knuckle in most cases. So you can see my body position has not changed within this haircut. So I'm staying in the back of the head, I'm combing the hair away from my body. So that's another key thing to focus on is how do you comb the hair? What separates a good hairdresser and a great hairdresser is how well they comb, it's not how well they cut, it's where they comb the hair too to cut it off, right? So anything you do with the hair, any shift that you make with your section is going to change the outcome of your haircut either for the good or the bad, right? So just understand every move you make and why it's doing what it's doing. So notice my last comb is away from my body because I'm pushing that new hair to the guide. I want it to live right at the guideline, I don't wanna move my guide to the new section because that'll make my guide shorter. Okay, so just finishing up, notice still consistent with the combing, making sure I'm pushing the hair. Something that's great and one thing obviously after making 700 videos for YouTube, you really get to watch yourself cut hair and watch every move that you make and kinda analyze the way that you cut hair. I would highly recommend any of you guys out there, not necessarily that you have to put it out on YouTube and for the world to see, but film yourself or have somebody film you cutting hair so that you can take it back and watch it and kinda learn from it and really study what you do and the consistency that you do it because that's gonna make you a better haircutter in the end. All right, so now we're continuing from the front to the back. Key thing here is just to stay vertical. So we cut vertically from the very front to the midpoint of the head and now I'm gonna start in the center back, connect using a guideline from the top of the head and connect that all the way through and work my way across the back of the head shape. Hair cutting is three-dimensional and we talk about that a lot. Really what that means is that you're working horizontally and you're working vertically and you're working with the length, right? So horizontally, you're working with your shape and really just what that line is gonna be. Are you following the head shape? Are you building corners? Are you pushing weight to the front? Are you pushing weight to the back? That's horizontal. Then when you look at vertical, that's how much weight you're leaving on the haircut. Is it a layered haircut? Is it a graduated haircut? And then obviously you pick your length and that kinda makes up all the different aspects of what the haircut is all about, right? So right now I'm working vertically, which is working also on my elevation, but at the same time I'm building a line horizontally. So to try to help you guys make that make sense, if I took any of this hair and I pull it up vertically or horizontally, I should see a perfect line. And that goes to show that the shape that I was creating is precise. So just make sure you do your cross-checking. Make sure that you have a line both ways and you'll know that you did this haircut correct. So you can see still pushing the hair away from my body into that guideline. When I work on the opposite side, when I'm working on the left-hand side of the head, I will be pulling the hair towards my guide, but everything's still coming straight up from the head shape. Notice how I comb the hair. I am using the tight teeth of the comb at this point, combing the hair away from myself, keeping my section nice and clean, because the worst thing you wanna do is get tangled up in lots of hair. So just keep your sections clean. Even if it takes you a little bit extra time, you can see that line that we're creating right there in the dry, let's semi-dry look of it. Now we're gonna blow it dry, but just keep your sections clean as you work through the haircut. It may take a tiny bit longer to do that, but you're not gonna have to go back and make any corrections because you have it right the first time. So now I'm going with Palmichill Neuralift, and we're gonna do kind of an extra, like a full-body blowout for this cut, because when I was in beauty school, I learned with rollers. You did a 180-degree haircut, and then you did some roller set, and you got lots and lots of volume. So we're gonna kind of mimic that using our Palmichill Pro Tools blow dryer, and then also my Ergo Paddle Brush, and I'm gonna set the hair to get maximum volume. Again, the end style of this is not the point of this haircut. It is going to be a little bit dated because there's nothing modern about this technique, but all of these techniques can be used in the salon. You wanna build volume, you do on the base blowout, I'm going through, I'm keeping everything very symmetrical. This is a very basic round brush blow dry. Key things here, focus on truck and trailer method, which is basically really keeping that nozzle following the round brush and working my way over and over that section. What I say is like the stages of hair goes from wet to damp to dry to smooth, right? So a lot of people go right to dry, and then they kind of leave it alone. You wanna just do a couple extra passes over the hair, that'll get that shine in it because shiny hair doesn't come, it's not just naturally shiny. What shiny hair is is a perfect cuticle laying down nice and soft and reflecting light. So you wanna make sure that that cuticle is laying nice and smooth. The way you do that is adding that heat and just really smoothing it out nice. The other thing that I'm doing in this technique is I'm pre, you're not seeing it because I sped everything up, but I pre-spray the hair with Protect from Pulmageal Neuro, and the reason I do that is because it's got a nice medium hold for one, because I'm trying to get the shine and the smoothness, and two, it's gonna protect the hair from the heat because most damage comes from blow-drying hair. So I do that. Then I go in with Pulmageal Neuro Finish, really set the hair, let it all cool, and then I start taking out the pins, right? So we get our set, you can see the volume, it's just crazy, maximum volume. Looks even better on really long hair, but obviously these mannequins are only as long as they are. So you can see the seamlessness of the layers, which I really love, and how that line creates on the top. So really cool layer cut, hope you guys liked it. Hope you liked going back, taking this trip back to beauty school with me to go through this haircut. If you have any questions, let me know in the comments. Thank you so much for watching. I'll see you on the next one.