 Okay, so today we are working on Vue E, the jumpsuit of Vogue 9351. I have already cut out, marked, and prepped all my fabric pieces, so you can see here I have the straps, cut two of them, and then I marked, you know, all the marks that we need. Nice, and then here I have the bodice with the lining pieces, which are going to be this like navy color, and then I also have the bodice pieces, again those are marked not just clipped, everything is ready to go, and I like to keep my pieces like this where the main fabric, the lining, and the pattern piece are all stored together, and I will keep them this way as I use them, and then I don't put the pattern pieces away until that entire section is completely done, if I need to reference like a dot that I might have missed, or I don't know if I need to just look back at it for any reason, they're all there. I've got my two pants pieces, here's either the front or the back, I can't remember, this must be the front, and this is the back, because here's the pattern piece for the back, and then I have this piece, so this is the like little back piece that like wraps around your back and connects to the straps, if you heard that beeping noise in the background, that was my Cricut EasyPress, because that's what I use to adhere all of the interfacing to the interfaced pieces, this is the collar piece, so I have one interfaced collar and one non interfaced collar, and obviously all of these instructions on what to interface, what needs a lining, and what doesn't, is inner pattern instructions, but it's also written on the pattern pieces themselves, like for example, this one here says that you need two pieces of fabric and two pieces of lining, so if you needed interfacing, that would be written on there as well, and then I have my waistband, so I have the back waistband and the front waistband, and that really is all that you need to make this pattern, there really aren't that many pieces, because there's no back to the jumpsuit, so you don't need a back pattern piece, but according to the instructions, and the jumpsuit instructions are at the very end of the instruction booklet, is this it here? Top, pants and jumpsuit, start right here, so they actually have you make the pants first, and then put in your waistband, put in your zipper, and then you start on the bodice piece, which is a little bit unusual, normally you start with the bodice and then do the pants, obviously that's not a huge difference, you can start with the bodice and then put it to the side while you make the pants, whichever, but I'm going to follow the instructions exactly, and the first steps are to put the pleats in the front and the darts in the back, you know, sew up the inner leg, sew up the crotch, and then sew up the side seams, very standard basic pants construction here, so let's start there, let me move all this out of the way, all these waistband pieces, that's bodice, that's bodice, okay and I'm left here with my pants, okay cool, all right, so this is the front, and here I have my darts, and if you remember from my muslin fitting, I thought the darts might be a little long, so I did shorten them just an easy teensy bit, and then in order to make the darts, oh my god this fabric is beyond dreamy, look at how it's just being amazing, okay you're going to need your straight pins, flip to the wrong side of the fabric, and then at the tops of all of these guys, I have clipped, and then at the bottom there is a dot, and then I drew a line from the dot to one clipping, the dot to another clipping, so that's how I've marked my dart legs, and then you'll see in the pattern there's actually a little point, like you can tell this is not in a straight line, there's a little point, so you know that that's your center, so I like to pinch it up, and then put a pin through one side where the line is drawn, through the other side, and you want to make sure that the pin is going directly through the line on both sides, that's how you know the lines are lined up, and then I'll go to the very end and put one where the dot is, making sure to kind of like split the dot between both sides, and then all throughout the middle, I'll continue to do the same thing where I'm putting a pin through one line, and then making sure it exactly matches up, it can't even be a millimeter off through the other side, like so, and I'll do that all the way down the dart legs, now you're probably wondering, oh but she put these in on the wrong side, normally your sewing machine, you would put in this way where the bulk of the fabric is, well I guess for you guys, it's this way, where the bulk of the fabric is to the right of the machine, I actually like to start my darts at the point, I drop the needle right through the point, and then I sew all the way down to the end, I find that gives me a more accurate sewing along this very narrow part, and prevents me from needing to like do all that tie-off stuff, so it's personal preference, but you can try it this way and see what you think, so anyways that's how I'll put my fabric through the machine for all four of the darts that make up, because remember also I had to add second darts to make up for my full seat adjustment, so I have four darts in the back, you might only have to depending on any adjustments you had to make to the back of your pants, on the front, which is right here, you have your markings for the pleats, like so, so you have big dots and you have little dots, and again on the pattern piece where the where the lines ended, I put a little notch for every line, so you can imagine a vertical line through here, I don't actually draw in the vertical line because I don't find it to be that helpful, what you're going to do is you're going to on the right side of the fabric, you can even put another pin through the center of the dot to help you know where that is, and then your little notch, and then you pinch that up right where the pin is, right where the notch is, and then you move it over to that second notch, like so, okay you've got those two things lined up, grab some of your metal pins, and pin horizontally, maybe three, three pins horizontally, and then one here at the very top, like so, so you'll have that pressed nice and neat like, and then you'll have that pressed, I don't again, I don't sew this down, I like for that to be free, I will baste across all of these, but I don't baste this down, I don't want to put any stitches where that I have to remove or anything, but I do press it really well so that it holds its shape, so yeah you'll just go to your next one, put a dot through the big dot or put a pin through the big dot, make sure it's all the way in, there we go, then find your other notch, pinch them up together, and then move it over and line it up with the next marking, like so, then remove this guy, and then again you get the idea, I think that because I am not stitching these pleats down is why I don't worry about that bottom, those two bottom dots matching up perfectly, because that's pretty much gonna be free and you know able to do it at once, but having these notches at the top match is really important, so yeah, so this whole thing will go over to my iron, I will press it really gently and then baste across this entire line here, and I'll do that for the front and the back, so there you have it, that is basic pants construction for the darts and the pleats, and then like I said the instructions call for sewing your inseam, and then sewing your crotch seam, and crotch seam that when they'll be connected, um like, oh that's the wrong site, you guys get the idea, they'll be connected like this after you sew your inseam, obviously right sides together, and then you'll sew this crotch seam, and then you'll sew your side seams together, and you'll pretty much have pants, the waistband and zipper installation will come next. All right, so I have one half of a pant, I have put in my beautiful darts, and I wanted to give you a tip for pressing your darts, so you're gonna want to press them to the center, and get a tailor's ham, these are like maybe ten dollars on amazon, I'll have a link in the description box for you, but what it allows you to do is like, especially if you're a pear shaped person and you have a curvy bum, you know, your darts are gonna create like a 3d, like they're gonna create like a bubble where your butt goes, so pressing them on a flat surface doesn't make sense, you're gonna get all these weird wrinkles, and it's just gonna be weird, but if you pretend that this is one of your butt cheeks, and you lay your fabric over the ham, you can see it mimics like the curve of a bum, so you're able to press them in a way that it's gonna lay naturally on your body, so I use this all the time, I promise you, you will use this, it'll be worth every penny, just go ahead and get one, you can make one, there's tutorials, but get a tailor's ham for sure, okay, and so then I also did my plates in the front, and then I sewed the side seam, and after I sewed this, I realized these pants are not lined, only the bodice is lined, so we need to make some decisions right now as to how we are going to finish the pants, I am going to end up surging mine because my fabric is just a little too thick for French seams, and obviously I don't want to leave them raw, this stuff kind of frays a lot, so I'm gonna surge the inseam, one seam, and then I'm going to Hong Kong surge the outer seams, which means you sew each side seam individually, and then whenever you attach the side seams to each other, then you press them open, you can obviously take this as far as you want to go, if you're using a shally or something really lightweight, you can do the French seams, or you can do an actual Hong Kong seam, where you bind each seam individually, it really depends on your fabric, the Hong Kong is for heavier weight than this, and then the French seams is for lighter than this, because this is just in the middle, I'm just going to really work to get a really balanced tension on my serger thread, make sure it looks beautiful, make sure it matches the fabric exactly, and do um surged Hong Kong seams, so you need to make a decision about how you want to proceed from here as well, because if you do the surged Hong Kong seams like me, then you're going to want to go ahead and do that while you are surging this inseam as well, but I did a little mock fitting and wrapped this around my body, and you guys I'm getting so excited, this fabric is literally perfect for a jumpsuit, it it could not be better, so I am thrilled with how this is coming along, I've got the other pant leg to go, and moving right along, all right, so we have our pants completely assembled, you can see we have our front pleats here, and remember when you assemble your pleats, press them out toward the side seam, I didn't think that was super clear in the instructions, so I just wanted to make sure you guys knew that they are pressed from the wrong side toward the side seams, I went ahead and attached our interfaced waistband, the other one will be used as the facing, the uninterfaced one will be used as the facing, I went ahead and assembled that as well, I ended up having to do a little piecing here together because I was short on fabric, but that's okay, it's on the inside, you just gotta make it work as they say, but yeah, so we have our waistband attached here, and then I also went ahead and attached the zipper, now the pattern calls for a like a lapped zipper, but I just prefer an invisible zipper, it's just a personal preference of mine, I think that this really depends on your fabric, if you have a light to midweight fabric, you can get away with an invisible zipper, but if it's a thicker fabric, if you're using like some kind of brocade or something like that, you really want to do the zipper that they call for in the pattern because of this waistband, there's a lot of bulk in this seam here, and the invisible zipper can only allow you so much room in there for all that seam for your zipper to get past, so if it's a really thick fabric, just stick with the one they call for in the pattern, otherwise just use whatever is your preference, I also wanted to show you how I decided to finish off the zipper tape, everything is beautifully surged on the inside, I ended up doing the like Hong Kong surging, so the side seams are all pressed open, but all of these other seams are searched together and then pressed to one side, so when it came to the zipper, I needed to figure out a way to cover up this raw edge, you could do a little number like this and turn it under and stitch close to the edge of the raw, or you could just do a little bias tape, so this is store bought bias tape, nothing fancy, I just folded in one edge and used my zipper foot all along here, you only need to go to the like within the seam allowance of the waistband because you have your facing that's going to end up getting sewn, oh gosh getting sewn like this and then turned over like this and then it'll be looking something like this on the inside, so you don't need to take your bias tape all the way to the top edge, you just need to take it to somewhere past this waistband seam because your waistband facing is going to cover any of the raw edges from this seam beyond, so it's super simple to do, you have on your bias tape there is a narrower piece, so it is folded in half but slightly off of that half mark to where you have like a little itty bitty edge left, I really hope you guys can see that, so you want to make sure that that edge is what is on the, what is facing up here, you turn all of this to one side so all you have is the seam allowance, you place that shorter edge along the raw edge like this and then just sandwich it in, obviously you'd be more careful and use pins or binder clips or wonder clips here but you get it all the way down to the edge here, cut off just a little bit of extra, fold that under and attach it like so, well that's obviously going to look a little bit better, but anyway so then you have something that looks like this, nice and beautiful on the inside in casing the entire raw edge and then your zipper is obviously still very workable even with the bias tape like so and so once we get done with this that's really going to do it for us for the pants, I am reluctant to hem them now, just because I know that the bodice is going to pull the pants to maybe a different height than I might find whenever I'm trying them on, so I just want to make sure I hem them after the bodice is attached so that I know that they are hanging exactly where they're going to hang at all times and there's no adjusting once the bodice is attached and then we'll move on to the bodice, the bodice I feel like is deceptively simple, it feels like it should be more difficult than it is but it's yeah whenever I was making the muslin I had a really easy time with it, so if you just mark everything so on your bodice piece you have so many darts and then you have all these little dots and notches, if you mark all of those things I think you will be super successful, this collar piece also has a lot of dots, little dots, big dots, notches, there's a lot going on here but if you're accurate in marking all of these everything's going to come together exactly perfect which is what we want, so the first step in making our bodice is to sew these darts, you're going to sew them the same way that we did on the pants, nothing new there, you can go ahead and sew the bodice, the main fabric as well as the lining if you want and then you'll also want to go ahead and stitch the center front to your big circle that's here so you're only going to stitch from the bottom seam line all the way up to this dot and you're going to leave all of this open and then you're also going to do some um stay stitching here just to make sure this curve doesn't stretch out on you in any way so you'll have a assembled front bodice once those three steps are taken okay here is our beautiful bodice I went ahead and attached our back piece whatever you can if you can even call this a back piece it's so small um so the darts went in beautifully, press them to the side seams, press these darts down and press the center seam open you can see all of that here beautiful um and this is fully lined so you don't have to worry about encasing any raw seams or anything like that just press everything open speaking of the lining so we are going to be sewing this exact piece um putting the darts in the uh front bodice sewing up the center front seam and attaching the back pieces with our lining and if you remember I use a little trick for the lining pieces along any edge that is like not sewn into another seam so this entire bottom edge gets sewn into the waistband so not that seam this seam gets sewn into itself so not that seam but this entire seam here all along the edges the neckline and along here for my lining pieces I just trimmed them like an eighth of an inch an 80 itty bitty amount you probably wouldn't even really notice it if I didn't tell you so for example if we were to take our side back piece here and line it up like it will be whenever the linings are sewn together um it's a little shifty so it's not laying perfectly um but what you'll notice is it's ever so slightly narrow along this edge here and when you sew these together right sides together and you match up the raw edges then what's going to happen is as you um pull it to the wrong side like so and then line up the bottom edge it barely pulls the uh fashion fabric the main fabric over into the inside of the garment um so that you never ever see your lining it's a really easy trick so that all these edges that are not sewn into another seam are finished really beautifully between the um fabric and the lining and so that it never gets exposed on the right side so I'll show you more of that as I get the lining all sewn together and get um the these the lining and the main fabric sewn together as well all right you guys you can see after you just get this one edge stitch you can see that the lining is starting to kind of pull away from the where the raw edges are necessarily matching along the neckline here and that's exactly what we want because as we pull this to where it's supposed to be it's going to make the outer part of the garment bigger than the lining and that is what is going to create that beautiful like slight turn in of the fashion fabric um onto the wrong side of the fabric or the wrong side of the garment um creating that beautiful finished edge along your side here so I just wanted to show you what that looked like um this step here is just sewing this they're calling it an arm edge I think and then sewing your neckline this little v here the trick here is that you sew it one side at a time so you sew from here down pushing your seam allowances to one side down to your circle then you cut the thread and then you flip them all to this side main fashion fabric to put your needle down in the dot and then sew the rest of the way here you don't try and sew this in one continuous seam you actually break your thread down here so you can get a perfect point on your v okay so you can see here how our fashion fabric is folding over beautifully just to the inside of the garment which creates this really beautiful clean edge on your arm edge and your little neckline here okay so the next steps according to the pattern are to baste the lining to the main fabric right here the neckline and then also at your waistline but we are going to add these little bra cups so these are just foam cups I want to say I got these on amazon I will leave a link in the description box they're shaped like a triangle this um taller part goes toward your neck and this part goes toward your waist so you just want to slip it in there and then kind of leave it alone for a minute um we're going to put this in there leaving the waist seam open I did baste it closed a couple of inches and the center and I closed up the back just to make sure the lining was kind of in place um but you kind of put it in there where you think your boob will go based on the um dark placement and then you just want to pin it um and then we're going to add the straps and pin the straps in place and then kind of try and adjust the bra cups from there because you definitely want to make sure you try this on before you tack the bra cups in place but just kind of get them close to where you think that they are going to go and then pin them down this one still feels really high but pin them down um and then we're going to just kind of leave it like this for a minute while we move on just to attach the um just to attach the strap so we can kind of we're not going to be able to try it on exactly not with this style because the bottom of the straps attach to the pants so it's not going to be perfect but we're going to try really hard to get it close um you can kind of put it up on yourself now and put this kind of where the neckline is supposed to go and budge with it but I don't know you just you really want to make sure they're in the right place and that they're not like lopsided and one's higher than the other one um so do what you need to do to get these in a decent place before we sew the bodice to the um to the pants okay we are working on some fun pieces here we've got our straps and I have turned them right side out and then just to help me remember which one had the square mark on it versus which one had the dots on it I put um a pin on the side to hide the square that's just for me um you can remember whichever way you want you can also kind of peek in here really easily since it's just marked on the seam allowance and see that that's where the circles are but anyways that's just for me just wanted to show you why that was there it's not sewn or anything it's just pin just so I know we also have our collar and I wanted to show you the construction here so you take the interface side you turn up the seam allowance press that then you lay it right sides together with the facing and you sew all along this little like the smaller of the two edges all along here all around this edge and down this edge as well making sure that the um turned in seam allowance stays turned in you stitch over that and hold that closed trim your edges and clip your neckline to get a really beautiful um flat edge whenever you turn that out okay so here we have our sort of completed bodice I just need to slip stitch um the collar facing down and I have done the best I could to get my cops placed where they needed to be placed and then on the inside I have pinned on each corner so this is the top point and then the left and right and then the same thing for over here I just wanted to show you how it's done you just reach into the lining nothing fancy you want to make sure the lining's not taut like that you want to make sure it's like settling into the cup so that you know the lining and everything shapes around you and you just pin through the lining and the cup only not through the main part of the um garment and again you just make sure it lays nicely and we'll have an opportunity one more time to adjust this we are going to attach the bodice to the pants at this point but we're only going to baste them to start that way if you need to unpick this it'll be easy and then you can adjust the cups as needed again I'm not sewing these down yet um I will sew them down by hand basically by pinching like a very slight corner and then whip stitching it on each of the corners and and that is it but I need to make sure the placement is good first this was okay when I was trying it on so I feel like I'm in an okay place with it but I want to make doubly short so let's go ahead and get the bodice attached to the pants um unzip them and right sides together place your bodice waist around your um waistband of your pants and again we haven't attached the waistband facing yet we still have that to go but you just want to match the centers and any notches and the side seams and you're just going to sew all around um this edge again I'm only going to baste it so that I can adjust those cups um if I need to okay so we have our bodice attached to our pants nearing the finish line here um so you want to take your waistband facing and you want to sandwich it's like the pants waistband the bodice and then the waistband facing makes one gigantic sandwich um but again you're just gonna line up the center front you're gonna line up any of the notches you're gonna line up the side seam and then as you wrap your way around here you are going to um come along to the corner of the waistband and then you're going to sew down just inside of the zipper which is why I have pinned the zipper tape out of the way um so come around to this corner and then down just shy of the zipper you might have to break the thread here and then put on a zipper foot to get that down okay and when you are done sewing the facing onto the pants waistband and doing our little zipper trick it looks something like this you are going to trim as you normally would like so same thing with the waistband kind of clip that corner away like so and then turn it all to the right side use a point turner and you are on your way the rest of this just needs to be hand stitched down so you can get the idea of the whole shebang from the inside when this gets pressed down you have your beautiful um bodice I've already tacked down the bra cups I've already sewn the um collar and so now I just have to hand stitch the bottom of the waistband down just like that and then when you're done your zipper will here let me trim this guy your zipper will shut beautifully like so and then you just need um to grab your uh hook and eye and you got a hook and eye that goes here and then you have two hook and eye that go here on the top of the collar and that's how the closures work and then all you have left to do is him I'm going to do a blind hem on mine using the blind hem foot of my sewing machine I've already pressed it up into place where it needs to go um I I measured the hem with the shoes that I'm going to be wearing these are them aren't they gorgeous so excited um so I measured them with this heel um and like no platform in mind so that I know when I'm wearing the shoes that I want to wear these will fall exactly where they need to fall so it's just as simple as that and um with a few finishing details our jumpsuit is done you guys will get to see the finished look of my jumpsuit in two weeks whenever we do final looks next week will be the um jacket um kind of the similar setup on just how to sew the jacket any finicky funny parts about the pattern I'll be walking you through in detail um otherwise I'll just be skimming through the um the instructions but I think our jumpsuit is looking really really good I'm so excited about her um all right so that's going to do it for me today I will see you all very soon bye