 Hi you guys! Lindsay and Abby here again and you guys all seem to really love the full seat adjustment that we did on the Chi Town Chino skirt. We loved it too. Yes and I love my new corduroy skirt. It's just perfect. So we thought we would try and show you guys how to do a full seat adjustment on pants. Obviously there are elements to pants that make full seat adjustments a little bit or just fitting pants in general like a little bit more complicated. There are many many different kinds of alterations that you can do to pants in addition to the full seat adjustment. For example there is crotch depth, there's crotch curve, there's the sway back, there's a full front, there's a full or thin thigh, there's a full or thin calf and it goes on and on. So if your pants aren't fitting and you do a full seat adjustment they may still not fit. You may have to do other adjustments. This curve here the crotch curve can cause so many problems when it comes to fitting. But as we know with Abby she needs a full seat adjustment. We've already determined that. So we are going to start off this pattern with a full seat adjustment and kind of see where we land and that's really how I fit pants. I'll start with my size. I'll do the things I know I have to do and then I'll make a muslin and then I'll adjust the fit and then it'll all assess the fit and then I'll adjust it on the muslin. Then I'll make another muslin and kind of go back and forth like that until I get a perfect fit. If you want to work on a full seat adjustment but you're nervous about pants try it on shorts. It's actually a little bit easier to do it on shorts than it is on pants simply because you don't have to worry about anything from like the mid thigh down. So all of the fitting through the thigh doesn't really come into, doesn't really affect it that much. Obviously the calf doesn't at all. Length is not a huge deal when it comes to shorts. There's a lot of freedom there. So if you want to try some of these adjustments but you don't want to jump into pants yet, shorts is a good in between a skirt and pants. Okay so today like I said we're only going to be doing a full seat adjustment. We're not going to be worrying about crotch curve, crotch depth, thin thigh, thick full thigh. We're not going to be worrying about any of that. We're only going to do the full seat adjustment and I think that that will fit fix a lot of the problems Abby currently has with these pants. So you'll see here this is the version of the we're working on the ultimate trousers by Sew Over It and this version that we took pictures of Abby in that you're seeing now was made what in a size 10. Size 10 I sewed them up and they were super tight through the butt but couldn't wear them. So I sent Lindsay a picture and she said well the only thing you can really do at this point is take some without no add some width through the back only. So I ripped out all the side seams and moved the back side seam out as far as possible keeping the front side seam at the 5 8. So that made them wearable but obviously they're still issues. There's still issues. Yeah I think namely I mean you'll see you'll notice in the front that there is a lot of the smile and frown lines going on along the front and I think that that has to do with the crotch curve. Also the front pulls down in the center front and I think that has to do with the crotch depth there but when you get to the back even though we added that width for the hip you can still see how the facing is wanting to like roll out and that's because there's not enough height in the back rise or the crotch depth to accommodate for Abby's bum. So just like in the skirt where we had to add that half an inch to the center back to give room for it to smoothly go over her bum we're going to have to do that again and then we're going to add fullness radiating from the center to the sides similar to how we did to the skirt. There's a lot more areas of impact I guess if you want to call it that that we have to look at when it comes to pants. So like I said I feel like this adjustment is going to help a lot of those things and then we'll have to see where we end up after she sews up this muslin and then maybe we'll do a follow-up if anything we'll just talk about it in an upcoming favorites video or if we don't do the full-on adjustment video we'll keep you guys posted on Instagram or somewhere here and let you know how it's going. I hope this is all I need because I really want to get these pants on my body. Yeah you really will have the ultimate trousers whenever we're done. Oh one more thing before we get started I know it's kind of rambly here in the beginning but I did want to say that this was a really good pattern to start with when you're doing alterations because it doesn't have a fly, it doesn't have back pockets, it doesn't have you know any pockets in the front even, it's a very very simple straightforward pattern that has darts in the front and darts in the back and darts are really great for fitting because you know they're already there to make it three-dimensional and so they only allow it to be done, they only allow the adjustments to be done even easier since they're already kind of marked for you but this is a good pattern it only has four pieces to it so you know very very basic pattern so you can really play around with the adjustments and see what is fitting, what's working, what helps, what doesn't help and so on. Cool? Yes let's get started. Who's excited? Okay so yeah here we are again with all the supplies that you need. Abby has already traced her pattern so initially she made a size 10 because she had measured herself incorrectly and she thought her waist was bigger than it actually is so when we measured her last time she was 26.5 so we're going to size her down to a size 8 and then if you go down to the finished garments for the hip you'll see the finished garment is 38 inches for the hip, Abby measures 39 inches so we are going to add we're going to do a one inch full seat adjustment on the hip so that's how you figure that out. Yeah so we're sizing down but adding room for the bum so I think the sizing down is going to help with the front fit issues and then adding the room and the bum is going to help with the back. Okay so the first step is two we're going to draw a whole bunch of lines on here. We need the same materials we needed for the skirt so take a look at all those. You're going to need to measure, you're going to need to mark your seam allowances from from like here all the way around here and all the way back. All righty so the first step is to draw a line through the center of the dart all the way through the dart point and then extend it out like a couple of inches. Okay so this is a one inch dart so we're going to kind of measure half an inch between the two of them and use that as the center point. Okay perfect now the next line that we are going to draw is going to be one that goes from the crotch through this line that we drew going past the dart point a little bit. That is really up to you. I'm not a hundred percent sure what the difference is if you move the line up here versus down here so I just like to kind of eyeball somewhere between half an inch and an inch in this area so draw a line through here and then once you get to this point pivot the line and draw another diagonal line up to the intersection of the waist and the side seam all the way through all the way through yep no go past this yep go past that I'm sorry if I didn't tell you correctly go past that another inch or so and then up through from there all the way up to this little x that we made with the seam allowances and stop at that point there. Okay the next line that we are going to draw is going to go from this line that we just made down to the inner leg inseam so you just want to come in a couple of inches and then draw the line straight diagonally down to the seam allowance not all the way through perfect and then we're going to draw another one from this part of the crotch curve down to the inseam again so it's going to be a shorter more angled line so that one is going to go all the way through the seam allowance yes but not on the other side right okay and then we're going to draw two lines parallel to each other that run from this line to the seam allowance line perfect okay so now we're going to insert some of those pivot points that we talked about in our skirt full seat adjustment and again this is just to help remind us to not cut all the way through because we're going to cut from both sides we're going to cut all the way down this line this way and then we're also going to cut up this way so the little pivot points just help you kind of remember to stop cutting at least it should okay so we had a pivot point here a pivot point here really anywhere that they cross the seam allowance so one here one here and we've got one here and we've got one here not very good at drawing circles it's just more of a visual than anything okay so now we're going to get scissors or the scissors right here okay and you are going to cut all the way down the dart line and you were going to oh we need another pivot point sorry forgot one and you're going to stop at this pivot point here so all the way down but don't cut through the intersection okay yeah you cut through the circle did you draw did you cut to the line yeah just go get some tape okay this is how we're going to mend it you did this on the skirt I did I was going to say that before yeah it should be in the bottom of that yeah but I struggled with this task I just put a piece of tape over the circle okay and now recut but only to the edge of the circle okay I'm sorry I was going to cut to the the opposite edge nope to the middle of the circle nope to the edge of the circle very good Abby okay so I should have done a better job that was like a perfect circle and those are all sloppy but at least you know to stop which is the whole point I guess technically we don't need one here I might have missed spoke yeah we're going to cut right through that so you didn't need the circle sorry if I'm being confusing so your next thing you're going to cut is this line through here you're going to cut through the dart which is why it was important to stop just before so that you didn't cut this piece away so draw cut through here and then up through here and stop at the edge of the circle at this corner okay perfect and then on this one you're also going to cut from the cut line to the other edge of the circle okay so from the corner there yes exactly just the edge of the circle yes precisely okay and while you're there you're going to cut from here all the way down to the edge of the circle here and then from here to here and then you're going to do what you did on that opposite corner cut through the cut line to the seam allowance or to the pivot point however you want to look at it like that well I might have done it as if the line were continuing but you can leave it like because it'll still pivot so the whole point is we just want it to be able to rotate around yeah so yeah that's probably what I would have done and then one you're going to do the two lines here and then come through on the other end there okay okay and this is all of the cutting that you need to do for the full seat adjustment you can see the crotch adds a whole another element to this but we need to add width in different places and so the only way to really do that is by making all of these cuts okay so now that we've got all the cuts made we're going to take the tracing paper and we're going to slide it underneath the pattern piece let's sew right out of the way okay yep and then if you want you can cut that off we don't really need it okay the whole roll okay and all right so here we are with our pants piece all kind of put in one place oh I never traced the grain line whoops it's easy okay so we're gonna um and similar to the skirt we want the side seam to stay the same and we um so we need to put the pins in like we did last time to kind of hold it down just to make sure it doesn't move anywhere you want to put some end down there so now we are going to open up um basically we're at this point we are going to be widening the pants so we're adding room for the hip now um and so that's what this line here does this line is all about the hip adjustment um so just like we did with the skirt um we are only going to adjust we're only adjusting half of the pants so the full one inch needs to be divided by two because we're only working on like the left butt cheek here and then the other half an inch is going to go on the right butt cheek whenever you um cut out the fabric so this needs to be opened up by half an inch okay oh and you have the tape over there too we can also put the pin in to hold it in place because lots of things are gonna be moving around okay so just moving this piece over like that yep boom okay yep okay and then now we are going you can tell that this has changed the crotch curve and remember in Abby's pants the back um waist was too was pulling down so we needed a lot of extra space in her um you know added to the the rise here we need to add more to the crotch length so we are going to do that by moving this up but you can't just move it all up here it won't be evenly dispersed you also need to move this here so both of these adjust both of these cuts this cut and this cut affect the crotch length you can see that here um so we'll take the one inch that we needed and we'll divide it between these two pieces so this comes up half an inch and this goes out half an inch but measure it at the seam line not the cutting line okay so you can see why we made these little cuts here there ends up being a little bit of space in there and same thing with this and ended up pulling up and out a little bit all right so now we need to fill in these gaps we have this gap here on the waist stand and then we also have the gaps that we made in the crotch curve and you can also see that now the line of the crotch curve is not nice and smooth anymore so we need to um kind of smooth that out so that it looks like a crotch curve it's not all jaggedy um that it's like one smooth crotch curve so okay so now we're just going to continue this make the little peak that's in there and now you've got your waist band and remember even though we widened the um legs of the dart can I have the ruler these are your new legs but even though we widened it it's all going to be taken out when abby um sews up the dart and I wanted um to address too that just because there's one dart in the pattern doesn't necessarily mean that it has to stay that way like when I do full seat adjustments my dart ends up growing substantially so what I like to do is take the take the dart the full dart and divide it into and then put two back darts in um you may see two back darts in some ready-to-wear clothes it's like not uncommon to have two back darts especially if you've got like a really full bomb so don't feel like you have to try and like wedge up this like humongous dart if it gets to be bigger than like you know two inches or so I might consider doing um two darts but abby's is like one and a half inches so that's not that bad okay and then for the crotch curve I'm not a hundred percent sure that there's a really good way to do this there are all these rulers out here french curves and hip curve rulers and different things like that but you know your crotch curve is so unique to you that I'm not a hundred percent sure that you're going to find one that is a total match okay so yeah so what you're going to do is keep the center back per couple of inches the same and try and keep the first couple of inches of the like innermost crotch part I don't know let's just call it um and then you draw a line down to meet this other part of your crotch and then it's going to curve in ignore this I didn't mean to draw any of that and then all the way around follow the line and then kind of you're clipping off all of this is part of the pattern that's getting clipped off and what else all of this is part of the pattern that's getting clipped off and that's okay because you're just kind of smoothing things out a bit like so so that's going to be abbey's new crotch curve and really abbey's new pants pattern so we're going to cut this out so you can see what it looks like yeah just rub it up so this is it this is abbey's new pant piece we need to trace the um grain line back on here sorry I forgot that um and then we got her some muslin actually good tip when joanne has their clearance fabric on sale so it's already red tagged and then it's 50 off on top of that we got abbey a kind of cute muslin fabric um that is a actually a twill so it's similar in weight to what she would actually be using for this it's not like a quilter's cotton um and we got it for like 250 a yard yeah so um if it doesn't work out it's obviously not a big monetary loss and there's a chance a small one but a chance she might actually like it you never know can I just say animal print yes and I think that it should most of you should know abbey's obsession with animal yeah well and the the final version I want is also a animal type print right yeah this was a little more a little more loud than that yes but yeah so this is it this is what it looks like um again like yes I preface this by saying this is much much more complicated than the skirt so this is intimidating you go make another skirt and do another full skirt adjustment try the shorts if you want to do that it's all the same adjustments on a short um but the difference is is once you muslin this you're not going to have to worry about any of the fit really from the thigh all the way down um this is the only part that you have to really worry about fitting and the rest of it is very minor but when it comes to pants gosh you have like all the wrinkling below the bomb in the front and with shorts that's not as important because you know they just end they just stop yeah so but yeah so abbey's gonna muslin this and we will keep you guys posted in one way or another yeah if you're dying for an update video let us know and we can we can try and video it and and see where she ended up with these adjustments and what we're going to do next yes hopefully there's no next yeah hopefully it's perfect but I do feel like making the smaller front it's going to help with her front issues and then making this smaller but with more room for the bubble but is going to help with her um the the tightness in the back my concern now is with the wrinkling under the butt and pulling back here that is my prediction okay so we'll see we'll see hopefully we can work it out yes but thanks for sticking with us through this one if you're still here I said very in through our complicated fsa tutorial um good luck good luck let us know if you have some success with your fsa yeah we'd love to hear that even if you just did the skirt yeah want to know that yeah so many of you commented which made us feel really good like we helped we helped we'd love to help that's why we're here exactly okay so we'll see you all soon bye