 Are you ready to turn the dark side today? We're talking about all things going from blonde to brown sounds like a simple task But hell no it isn't and if you do it wrong you will end up with some mucky ugly hollow nasty brown hair So today I'm gonna walk you guys through the basics of doing a color fill as well as an example of a fill So you can really understand why I mixed up the colors I did how I applied them and what the final results were so that hopefully when you do your own fill at home You can use a few takeaways from what I told you about my own formula and apply it to your formula So let's first go over the basics We have to first understand what color filling hair actually means Color filling your hair is essentially adding the missing pigment back to your hair Because when your hair is blonde or very light blonde level 10 You essentially have very little to no pigment left in the hair Which is making it almost see-through and extremely reflective When we're trying to go back down to a much darker level You have to add back that red that orange that yellow to the hair in order to get a result That has depth and doesn't look hollow now. Let's understand contributing pigment We can check out my beautiful graph right here as you can see we have levels 10 through 3 here And we all know that level 10 is the brightest blonde you can get and level 3 is the darkest you can get It depends on the color line you use, you know, there's ones There's twos and some color lines you get the point now each level has a different underlying pigment Of course with level 10, we're getting pale yellow level nine. We're getting light yellow level eight We are getting yellow and then down to level five, which is orange and then level three, which is red So this chart actually helps you understand what pigments you need to put back into the hair Depending on what level you're trying to reach with your end result Miss Maddie Quinn is coming in today and she is a level 10 She's very blonde right now. She definitely went off with the bleach I may or may not have been a culprit in that, but uh, she's blonde as f*** You will see in a minute. Her goal for today though is to be a level six neutral She does not want any red in her hair But she wants that rich level six natural look because she wants it to be as close to her natural color as possible We're gonna try our best today All right, first thing we have to do is look at our contributing pigment chart Now if we go down to a level six, you'll notice that it says yellow orange aka golden copper We definitely need that copper in that formula in order to get a result with a lot of depth and a lot of richness You're gonna hear me say that a million times today because that is the most important thing of all is depth and richness Okay, otherwise nobody wants to see a girl or a guy with some hollow f*** looking hair It is a pet peeve of mine and I hate it. So back off I also want to keep in mind while formulating the fill that she is not trying to have a very warm result A lot of people put way too much copper in their fills and it ends up being really hard to cover up conceal And once that kind of overall color fades off You may end up with a very orange like copper looking hair and people don't want that So I'm gonna chill with the copper, but I am definitely gonna put it in the formula But I'm really gonna focus on those yellows mostly and making sure my fill formula is very warm with a dash of copper So before we start coloring let's choose between using a Demi permanent color versus a permanent color to fill and to color the hair I personally feel like permanent color for situations where you're bringing somebody from blonde to brown is just not necessary Blonde hair is already compromised So you really want to add the health back to it and you really don't have to open up that cuticle too much In order for that color to stick sometimes people want extremely permanent results And they do not want it to wash away like at all So in those cases, yeah, sure if they are ready to commit to that darker color go with permanent Otherwise I tend to stick with demi permanent because it gives me the perfect amount of Vibrancy and depth to the hair without compromising it anymore than it already has been So I use demi permanent whenever I do fills some people also use direct dies There are really so many ways that you can do a fill. There's no right or wrong way There's just preferences. You can definitely use a direct die I've used those many times before it came out beautiful, but I just prefer to use demi permanent color at this point Let's get into some color. Shall we we're almost ready for my client to come in But first let's talk about her fill formula in the back room follow me We're here in the back room. Okay, great. So like I said before her desired result is a level six natural So we're gonna try and give her that as best as possible We want to make sure when we're formulating our fill We're only skipping two levels at a time. So since we are going from a level 10 to a level six We first want to go to a level eight and then to a level six Okay, we don't want to skip too many levels at a time or else That's when you get ugly monkey nasty color that we don't want so two levels at a time So let's keep in mind We looked at the contributing pigment chart earlier and we saw that there is orange slash yellow in a level six So we definitely want to make sure we have both orange and yellow in our fill formula And we're gonna want a bit more orange But not too much because she wants a neutral result. So we gotta be careful here I'll be formulating today with shades eq, which is a demi permanent color and let's look at our shades eq chart here We're first gonna go to obviously our level eight and I definitely want that orange Aka copper in that formula. So we're definitely gonna go for some eight c Especially because her hair is like very compromised and very dry and it needs a bit of copper in there desperately So copper for sure eight c got it now We really want a lot of gold in there too. So I'm gonna go for the eight gg This is just such a beautiful gold color. Let's throw that in to really amp up that yellow So we have our orange and our yellow now I love to put a natural in there just to balance it all out The naturals are a very balanced color. So I feel like it helps balance out that fill formula as well We're just gonna put a splash of eight n in there to kind of anchor things down. All right, let's get to mixing So first I'm gonna put in eight c which is the majority of my formula That is 45 grams of eight c now I'm gonna put in some eight gg Which I'm gonna do 30 grams and then I'm gonna put just a sprinkle of eight n about five grams And I'm gonna put my developer in mix that all up and we're ready to apply So I just quickly put her hair into three quadrants Basically just the back into one and this sides into two. So let's just quickly apply our formula Now when applying your filler guys, please be precise with it There's nothing worse than when you rinse off a fill formula and there is splotchiness When you're bringing somebody from a very bright blonde like this back to a dark brown You will see every mistake. So be careful. All right. We got our gloss here and uh, if this gets all over her Don't come for me. Okay. Her hair is clearly so effing blonde to start. Okay We want to make sure that color is everywhere now be precise But don't take forever when doing this. All right, you can see I'm using a bottle I'm gonna comb everything through when I'm done It might be a little messy to start But we're just gonna get it on there and then we're gonna go through and section everything after and make sure to comb Every single piece of hair. You do not want to miss any hair when doing a fill You will see it from a mile away like when you have a little spot of blonde shining through it looks terrible So just be careful, but go fast. We don't need to spend all day doing this Another important thing to do if you're doing this on a client is tell the client that their hair is going to be orange Slash red temporarily while the process is happening and to not be scared because some of them will look into the mirror and be like What the f**k are you doing to my head? I thought we were going ash brown. I thought I told you ash I thought I said no red. You're like girl. I'm not doing red. I mean, I kind of am but like I mean technically Yeah, but no we're already seeing that beautiful copper and gold tone come through F**k you All right, the fill formula has been applied. We're gonna let that process for 20 minutes Rinse it off blow dry and apply our final formula at the desired tone and level that she wants It's already looking Gorgeous, so we're back with the results from the fill. It looks amazing. It is golden It is slightly copper. It is about a level seven and a half and it is perfect and ready to be colored This is the part that is make or break Okay, because listen you still have time to like fix your errors at this point You can do another fill You can make sure your end formula kind of covers up the mistakes of the fill if there are any But you gotta get this one right because you can only color hair so many times until it stops taking the color So don't f**k up too many times now We're ready to formulate at a level six because we're going from an eight to a six two levels that is totally Okay, so we're going to a level six, baby We're gonna do six g because I still want that gold in there I feel like a natural has just the perfect amount of gold, but you just don't want red or orange, you know So it's a very fine line We're also going to do six gb because it's such a pretty color that isn't too golden It's like kind of beigey is delicious So a little six gb and a little six n because it just balances everything out And she wants to be a six n in the result as well So six n to kind of cool things off just a tad But also still have that beautiful richness from the g in there and mix it all together It's gonna make a great color. So let's get to mixing. We're gonna put in 30 grams of six g And we're gonna do 15 grams of six n and our developer mix it up and apply it the same way we did last time on dry hair And get it on there real quick home it all through make sure it's evenly distributed gorgeous Now before I show you the finished results, let me just add in one pro tip Okay, I'm doing a very basic fill right now, but there are so many ways to spice up your fill I tend to not do one color over everything I like to do a root formula and an n formula when bringing somebody back They're natural because most of the time hair is not just one color You get a more natural balance result if you do multiple different shades in the same head It has a lot more depth a lot more richness and it's a lot sexier and stylized that way So if your final formula over the fill you can totally do a root and n formula Also another great tip is to leave some pieces out and tone those later I love to leave some money pieces out so that way at the end I can tone that with like a level eight So you have kind of a variation of color going on you have the level six base with level eight highlights So you can do different things like that and do it all in one step instead of multiple steps Like you don't need to go and fill the hair color it and then lighten the hair again You can actually just do it all at once and leave those pieces out And then tone them with a different toner at the end and another thing to do while doing your fill Is using a porosity equalizing spray some color brands have them You can also just put conditioner in a bottle with some water and shake it and spray that on the ends or anywhere That's really porous because what happens sometimes is the color will not grab onto those really porous spots So the ends of the hair will end up being much lighter than the roots and the porosity equalizer really helps balance things out So everything takes the same and you get a more even result. All right. Miss Manny Quinn is all finished She's looking fabulous. Do you want to see her end result? She's looking gorge. She's having a hard time adjusting to it She's been blonde for so long. She's kind of freaking out a little bit. I'm trying to convince her It's okay. So like be nice to her. Miss Manny Quinn with the brown and hair looks like a metal her hair is so glossy So miss Manny Quinn. She's um, she likes her hair a lot. It's a big change You know how it is when you go from blonde to brown. She's freaking out a little bit, but I'm trying to convince her It's all gonna be okay. I think she looks fierce. I mean her hair looks so much healthier than what she started with I mean wow also can we talk about the fact that this is the most perfect neutral I've ever seen like there's no red There's the perfect amount of gold and the perfect amount of ash in there. Oh my god It looks so good. I outdid myself today. Damn. It looks so rich and vibrant Like this is what happens when you do a fill, right? You get beautiful results that look rich That look like her hair is healthier than what she walked in with That is the best part of a good fill when they leave with healthier looking hair. Yes We're not twins anymore though I missed your blonde a little bit. It looks a little bit darker on camera. By the way, it's not that dark But yeah, it's just very natural looking color. You're welcome batch So those are my easy simple steps to filling hair now honestly when I say easy and simple It's not that easy and simple things can go wrong different hair has different Prosities different hair has different levels of damage and there are so many factors Just because this specific formula work for me doesn't mean it's gonna work for you So please formulate your own formulas based off of your client's needs. Okay, don't just copy mine I hope that I helped you understand how to fill hair better and Kind of simplified the whole process a bit because it can be very confusing If you would like to check out my hair care and my hair color line You can do so with the link right down below or go to xmondo hair dot com You can also check me out on all my other social media platforms right here I'm everywhere. So go and do it. Also, you can get good hair inspiration from x mono hair on instagram Or x mono color for hair color. If you would like to check out more videos of me here They are and click subscribe. That's all really for today. I had so much fun educating you on filler Thank you for watching. Don't forget to live your extra life and I'll see you next time. Bye