 Today, we're going to take the Creality 115 silent board and put it on this Ender 5. My name's Jim and this is the Edge of Tech. If you remember, last week I did a live stream and built this Ender 5. If you didn't see it, go back and check it out, it was a lot of fun. But at the end, we realized that the reason this thing probably got returned is that the SD card slot would not keep the SD card in. When I held it in and did a test print, it worked. But if I let go, the thing would come popping out and everything would stop. So the company who gave me this printer is going to send me a brand new board. But while I'm waiting, I thought I would buy the Creality 1.1.5 silent board. I got this off of Amazon, I'll put the link below. I thought I would do this for two reasons. Number one, I could get the board faster and it was only about $40. Number two, I thought it would be a really cool upgrade for this Ender 5. I want to see how quiet it really makes the Ender 5. I've heard some good success stories out there and you never know, I hope it's great. The other cool thing is I'm going to actually use the TH3D unified firmware for this board. So there's thousands of these out there and I thought it would be cool to show you that the TH3D firmware works on this board. I think we should jump right into it, let's do it. We want to start with laying the Ender 5 flat down on its back. Then what you get is a control board case right in front of you right here. As you can see, there's four bolts, one, two, three, four, that hold this on. What we're going to do is take off this bottom cover. Something to note that when you get to one, two, three screws out, then you want to hold your case and take the last one out. I say that because the fan is actually connected underneath and you don't want to rip it out of the board. If you remember right, I did that in a live stream on accident. So when you pull this off, disconnect the fan cord and remember that it goes into the slot right next to the green power brick there. Next, what you want to do is locate your board, which is right here. There's going to be a total of four screws that we got to take out. One, two, three, four. And we're going to do that now. So right now I got one, two, three of the screws out. I'm actually going to take the fourth one out and be very careful because at this point your board is going to be loose and we don't want it to go fall. There we go. Unplug the ribbon cable right here that runs to your LCD display. Once you unplug the ribbon cable, that allows this to be very loose. That helps us because we're going to put the new board right next to this. And we're going to be able to put the connections exactly where they go on the new board. Your new board will come packaged just like this. And all we have to do is take this out of the packaging and we're going to get rocking and rolling. So go on this side, you'll find a little tear mark and tear the bag open. So this is your new board. It says Creality 115 right here. And it looks almost identical to the board that we already have. So next what we need to do is literally start taking cable for cable and putting it into the new board. And because this is so loose it allows us to do that right next to it. So what I'm going to do is I'm actually going to start by taking these cables out and they're all labeled. This is E for extruder, this is Z for your Z, this is Y and X. So I am going to pull those all out at one time to make this a little bit easier on us. You want to be careful and just get them out slowly. Now you might notice that there's some hot glue holding some of these in. That's okay, just take an X-Acto knife and just kind of slit or cut the hot glue so it breaks. So the cool thing is if we look at the board it's labeled. So you have E, Z, Y and X. And we can push those cables right into the new home. So that's what I'm going to do. I'm going to start with E. I'm going to push E in. Then I'm going to go to Z. And they're all labeled nicely. So we're going to push Z in. Then I'll go to Y here. Push Y into the new board. Just like that. And we'll take X in and push it in. So now you have this side of the board already rewired. Now we're just going to slowly move down the line here. So I'm going to kind of hold this together here with my hands. And it'll kind of sit right here on those cables. And I'm just going to start pulling off each one of these and putting them exactly in the same spot on the new board. So now as you can see I got this whole row into the new row here. Now what's next is the yellow and blue. I'll get that one out carefully. That one was really glued. If you get the glue you can actually pull it off before you put it into the new board. And that one is going to go underneath and right in the inside port. Just like this. Now all that's left are the cables here. And we're going to do those exactly like we did the rest. So I'm going to take these out and put them into the new board in the exact same way that they're coming out. So we make sure that everything's in the correct spot. Now if we look we have a red, a red, a black, and a red. Now you want to make sure these are opened up all the way. You put your wires in and you tighten them down so they're nice and tight. When you're done you want to give these all a little tug and make sure they do not fall out. Now the next ones on the board that we're going to do are also red and black. But they're going to be a smaller wire. So it'll be a small black and a small red. So those two are tight. All these are tight. And it's very important that there's no wire hanging out of here. Only two left. And that's the two here coming straight from the power supply. Now it's very important that we put these in correctly. So if you turn this and you're looking at these boards next to each other, you'll notice the black on the outside or the ground and the red on the inside. That's exactly how we're going to put it in a new board. Black on the outside, red on the inside. So when you're done, everything will be connected just like this. These are your mains from your motherboard. Like I said, black on the outside, red on the inside. Everything else is tight. All the connections are pushed in nicely. And now we can mount it back. What you want to do now is put your LCD cable back in. That'll actually help hold the board up for us a little bit when we're ready to screw everything together. So when this is properly put in, if you push it all the way up, the screw holes all should align. We're just going to reverse the process we did before with the five screws. And we're going to put the board back in. Well, that's it. Now we have the board mounted back. All of our cables are in just the exact same position they came out of. We have the four, one, two, three, four screws put back so it's nice and tight on that case. All we have to do is put our cover back up. Our fan goes right in here and screw the back cover back on. We have our power cable. I like to run it just like this so it comes down around a little bit. I create a loop here so it's not pulling on the board at all. Then I run it right next to here and then around. I do that so it keeps out of the way of the fans and everything. It looks very nice that way too. Take your fan connection, push that in first, then make sure your fan cord is out of the way of everything and your case will sit just like this. We'll put all four screws back in. Now we tip the printer back up and we cannot turn it on yet. These come with the Ender 3 firmware and we need to put the Ender 5 firmware on that board. We'll need to go to the computer, compile the Ender 5 firmware from TH3D and plug it in and flash this board to the new Ender 5 firmware. I got the old board out and we walk through quickly how to replace it with a new board. It is really cool because it's literally plug for plug. You just pull and plug it into the new one and keep going. It's super easy. Now that we did that, I actually jumped on, I did the TH3D firmware. There's a bunch of videos on how to do the TH3D firmware and the cool thing about it is if you go into the TH3D unified firmware, search for Ender 5, the section will come up. You'll uncomment Ender 5, so you take out the two slashes, a little bit further down in the Ender 5 section, there's actually something to uncomment specifically for the Creality silent board. Uncomment that, push the firmware to your board by hitting upload and that's all you have to do. It is super super easy. It is super easy because the board already comes with the boot loader installed. Once that's done, literally don't plug it in, connect it to your computer, upload the new firmware and you're done. All we have left to do is turn it on and make sure everything works and we're going to do that now. So now I'm going to turn the machine on and it says TH3D, TH3D U1R216. So that's the version of the TH3D firmware we have going on. As you can hear, it's really silent. All I hear right now is fans but we haven't moved anything yet. So let's do an auto home and see how quiet this thing is and make sure that everything homes like it's supposed to. So that was good. That home and looks like we're good. Okay, so I pulled all the accesses away from their homes and I brought the camera a little bit closer so you could actually see this up close. Now I'm going to lean in a little bit with my microphone. I'm just going to do another auto home so you guys can hear exactly what this thing sounds like. Here we go. That is super silent for a $40 board. So now we have the Creality 115 silent board installed on this Ender 5. Full disclosure, I like the TH3D firmware. I use the TH3D firmware on almost all of my printers. I did not show this time how to configure it on the screen because I have a few other videos that go through that. Just know that when you go into the TH3D unified firmware, you want to search for Ender 5, uncomment the Ender 5 in the selection, go down a few more lines and then you want to uncomment or take out the little slashes for the Creality silent board. That is an option that Tim put in there and it's really handy. After that, all you have to do is upload it just like any other board and you're good to go. Now the Creality 115 board that I got had a bootloader installed. I did not have to install the bootloader, which was great. It saved me 5 minutes of time or 10 minutes if you have to take the bottom back off. With that being said, I hope this board holds up. We're going to find out. I'm going to start some prints right away after this video and we're going to see how it goes. So far, my first impression is that it's very quiet with those TMC 2208 drivers. And I really like that. And best of all, the SD card stays in it, which is awesome. Well, I hope you learned something and as always, keep printing. Hey everybody, I hope you liked the video. Give me that thumbs up below if you did. Please click that little subscribe button right down here and the little bell right over here if you want to get notified anytime we put a live video out or a new video out that you want to see. I really appreciate you all watching. We are so close to 5,000 subscribers. Mash that button.