 We've made it. This is the final day of the Sewalong for Butterick 6873. If you've just stumbled upon this Sewalong, welcome. We're on the last day, but all the other videos are available to you already. This is the Sewalong workbook that we have been using to kind of help us stay on track. And if you've got it already, then you know that on day three, the last day of the Sewalong, we're gonna be finishing up our dress. We're gonna do the spacings. We are gonna do some finishing work. We're gonna do the button and the sash. So I know we're all excited to wrap this up and have a dress. So let's get to this. Guys, let's knock this out. We are working on the facing today. We should have, let me move the dress out of the way. A back neck facing that should be interfaced looks like this. Makes a frowny shape. And then we have two front neck facings, which look like this. So these have to go together at the shoulder seam. So opposite this guy is this guy, which gets attached to the back neck facing right sides together. So I've got a notch there and a notch here. Those match up perfectly just by happenstance. For demonstration, let me show you what happens if they're wrong. If they're wrong, this is the other one. You put it together like this and one notch is right here and the other one is over here. Can you see how those don't match? And it also makes like a weird V shape. We don't want that. We want, I don't know what shape is this. It shouldn't go out, it should go in. Okay, so both of these get attached to here like this. So at the shoulder seams, you do not have to finish these seams because they're all going to be concealed, but you do want to finish the outer edge of your entire facing, either by throwing it through a serger, which is what I'm going to do, or you're going to turn this under one time along the seam allowance and topstitch that. So you get a pretty little hem like so. So this is our neckline facing and it should mimic the shape of your neckline, you know, how it crosses over like this, like a ribbon or a fish. Okay, all right, so now this needs to get attached to the neckline of our dress being super careful again to not mess with the bias portion of our neckline too, too much. The more I've been thinking about this, the more that I do want to add some stay tape to this. So let me go grab it and show you what it looks like and I'm going to sew it on at the same time that I sewed this on, it's all going to go on in one step for me. This is stay tape, it's like a little webbing, it's very nylon feeling, very slick and smooth and doesn't budge a millimeter, which is exactly what we want. So along, where'd she go? Along the front edge, all of this is cut on the bias and so that's where I want to place and the stay tape will be down here and I'm going to be able to just kind of slowly kind of put all that in at the same time, but when this goes in and then the facing gets turned to the other side, boom, you'll never see the stay tape at all, but it'll be sewn into this little seam right here, so it'll be nice and sturdy and it'll never stretch out. So yeah, so you're facing, whether you're putting the stay tape in or not, you can do that in two separate steps also, like I could go in and put the stay tape in now, but it's just as easy for me to do it all at once. So whether you're using the stay tape or not, like I said, the notched edge, the raw edge that is not finished and the raw edge of the neckline get placed together, then it comes all the way around or okay, there's a notch here, you see her and then there's a notch here, so you know those two things get lined up right there, then your shoulder seams are going to get lined up. So a shoulder seam with a shoulder seam, your center backs get matched up, so I put a notch on my center back bodice, did I do it here? I did, I'm a genius, love myself for that. Those get matched up, then the shoulder seams get matched up, then they repeat the same thing on the other side with the other notch and the other dot. All right, and once you get that seam done, the center front and then this little waist seam, we're just going to trim this guy kind of close to that stitching so that it lays nice and flat whenever we turn it right side out, like so. And that way you have, I mean the goal is to have this be completely like fully smooth, you can tell I didn't really achieve that. That's okay though, I think because we're going to have a button here and they're going to cross over, like I'm not going to worry about being too precious about it, but if there's like a big like jut out here, you are probably going to want to fix that. Okay, so once you've got that done, that's in there, pressed, you are going to do your understitching, you're not going to be able to understitch all the way into here, you're only going to be able to start it, I don't know, a couple inches away. So, let me do that, and again, we're stitching the seam allowances to the facing. Just repeat that to yourself until it makes sense. Seam allowances, stitch to the facing over and over and over again. We're putting our needle at like the very, very, very, like very close to the seam line here. You do backstitch. Do you see how I'm kind of pulling this apart with my hands? The needle is staying very close to the edge and I'm making sure that the seam allowances are also underneath the facing. Okay, and when you're done with your understitching, this is what it should look like. You should see that row of stitching there, it should be on the side of the facing, and then all of this should turn to the inside of your garment. And when you do that, you should not be able to see your seam line any more. Stunning! All right, and after you get it understitched, you're going to come in and you're going to just tack down your shoulder seams. This is going to just, you know, help everything lay nice and flat. The understitching is going to do a lot of that work for us, but having it down at the shoulder is really going to help. And then, do they tell us to do the center front at all? No, just the shoulder seams. So that's literally just stitching in the ditch. You can definitely do it by hand, like the pattern recommends. I don't sew by hand unless I absolutely have to. So I am not going to do that. And then while we are at our machines, we are also going to put in a buttonhole on the right front. So that's the wearer's right. So as we're looking at our garment, it's the left. So the buttonhole goes here, and there should be a place marked on the pattern pieces. Once you have your seam line done, right, we've removed the seam allowances here, then the buttonhole is half an inch above the waist seam. And it's really hard to tell these markings. I don't like that they did the button this way, but I'm pretty sure it's going to be 18, 20, 22, 24. So each button is three quarters of an inch. No, five eighths inch buttons. Okay, so I'm a 20, right? And that's what I cut, 18, 20. So if I want to mark this, we've got a 20 here. And then 24, 22, 20. And these two things should be roughly five eighths inch away from each other. Okay, that's what we're going to go with. We're going to mark that. Again, we're making this on the wearer's right. So I'll just mark the start of my button here. And then, what did I say? It was half an inch. So I can mark this line here. Okay, so now I have sort of like a t-shape. I'm going to start my button here. It's going to go along here. Now I get to pick out a button. That's fun. All right, this is my fun little button collection. Here's a flat brown one. Let's see the size of this. Yeah, that's the right size. So I can go flat brown. Yeah, let's do flat brown. All right, rookie mistake. And thought I was recording and I wasn't. But basically all I did was take my buttonhole cutter, come to this little wooden thing, lay it on top. Here's the buttonhole cutter, and you just press through until you get a hole. And then I put a bead of fray check on those essentially raw edges that are inside here so that that doesn't come undone. And my buttonhole is finished. Now I'm going to put the garment on and kind of use that to mark my button placement. That way I can kind of like fudge it a little bit. But yeah, just try it on. Pin where you want your button to go. It should be wrapped around your waist pretty significantly. I'm getting it like all the way under my rib cage. Okay, so I have marked my buttonhole. Like I said, it was far over. Yeah, way over here on the bodice front close to, like if this is my side seam, this was like the middle of my ribs. So that is where my button is going to go. She's right here. And she goes on the, on this side, she goes on the outside, on the other side, she goes on the inside. We're going to repeat this whole buttonhole button process for the inside of the garment as well. It gets a button on the right, on the inside, and a button on the left, on the outside. Yes. Okay, so I'm going to go back to my machine and just going to like tack that in. You can also obviously do it by hand. I think I probably would do it by hand using buttonhole thread because buttonhole thread is superior. But I don't have orange buttonhole thread. So for this one, I'm going to use polyester thread on my machine. Okay, it's done. And I had full intentions of making like a self-belt with like a belt buckle and everything, but I don't know. Maybe I'll wear it like this once and see how I feel, see how it wears and all of that. And I will have a video with me wearing it very soon. All right, there you have it. Your dress should be done. Like I'm really excited about this one. And I hope that you are too. At this point, you should have your entire daily checklist done. If you keep flipping a couple pages past the social media checklist, by the way, if you're following along with that today, you should be posting your finished dress, picture of your finished dress, whether that's on a dress form, a hanger, however you want to do it. Don't forget to tag me and use the hashtags. But we also have a project summary page, which is new to the workbook as well. So here you can kind of rate how you thought the pattern was. I've got some little question prompts here to determine just your thoughts on the pattern, some changes that you'll make next time, and just any additional notes that you have about this. That way, if you ever going to make this pattern again, you can get a good refresher of, okay, what happened last time? What do I want to do this time? If I'm going to make any changes at all. So go through the project summary, and that will help you the next time you go to make this pattern. But that's going to do it, you guys. That's going to be it for Butterick 6873. I cannot wait to see your finished dresses. I will have mine up in a few days. So stay tuned for that. But that's all for today. I'll see you all very soon. Bye.