 Live! They live! Live! Hey guys, welcome to FSC Live, this is Matt Beck from FreeSalonEducation.com here with Brian Hare. Yes. Draya Bolland. Hey, hey. Thad Bolland. Hello, Justin Scott. Hey! Hit him back. In the background he's inside. Christina Cavilcanti, running the show. Thank you guys so much for tuning in, sorry we're a little bit late. We got Justin Scott, that's gonna be doing some men's cutting tonight. what we want to do is focus on growing your salon men's clientele and Justin's got some great tips for you guys tonight and we have an awesome model, David, who's been coming to the salon for a long time. So, David, thank you for being here. All right, and we also have tons and tons of questions from everybody. So I'm excited that we get to go through that and have a little bit of a chat tonight. So welcome to FSE Live. And if you want to quickly just give us a breakdown of what you're going to do, and then we can get started. Sure, I guess I can do that. Well, prior to this little setup we had going on, we had our consultation, and David gets a haircut once every six months. Give or take. Every few months he gets a haircut. So we're going to take a ton of his bulk out. What I see a lot of times nowadays is guys are coming in and they want that nice clean kind of fade on the side, like a nice tight look, but they want a little more length up top to kind of throw around. They're kind of streaming away from the nice clean slick back, little messy, PC kind of texturized look up top. So that's what we're going to do. I have a few tools I'm going to use tonight. I'm going to use my Andis Clippers, all Andis tonight. I'm really, really happy with my setup. We're going to go and take the bulk out with the Andis Supers we got here with a three and three-quarter guard to kind of take all the bulk out of the haircut. They're going to go through with the Andis Master series and taper it down. We're going to take all that top out, clean it up with a straight blade, and send them on his way. Sound good, David? Awesome. All right, cool. So why don't we, while Justin's getting set up, why don't we go through, I want to say thank you to Minerva Beauty who gives us this awesome slant furniture and also demandforce.com slash free slant education. Check them out for your marketing and all of that stuff. I forgot that we're going to have the, we're not used to the clipper going. Yeah, you got to deal with that tonight. Yeah, cool. So let's go over to Justin and we'll just kind of, you can walk us through what you're doing now. Cool. So right now I'm just taking, like I said, the Supers right now. They're a lot quicker of a clipper. So they're going to just going to blow right through all the bulky has built up here on the sides. Pretty much. I'm using the parietal right now. So there's essentially three different types of fades you can do. A lot of people get kind of hung up on that in salons. I'm going to show you a quick tip about how to delegate what's going to be going where. What blades on there should we have the three and three quarter blade. So essentially, I'm going to show you what it equals out to when you get to a master's. And David, everyone wants to see your smile. There you go. There you go. He looks miserable. Oh God. So I'm going up. I'm using the parietal ridge as my, as my area kind of stop and flick out with right now. And just in case, like, yeah, turn that off, show him the ridge, like, where on the ridge is that horseshoe from the temple down your occipital and right back on the other side. And you can actually feel the bone, like, get in there and check it out, because it's going to be a little different on some people. So real quick, before I continue, you can not your head like that. You have a few main points here. Now the parietal ridge isn't a straight line. It dips down. So whenever you're going to do a fade, you're never going to keep a straight line that you're going to always follow that shape of the head. Every set is different. So if somebody comes in as for a low fade, usually going to work from right where that temple is to the ear down. That's going to be your, your, your fades going to kind of work right around there. A mid is going to come right up to that little point. And again, follow that same shape down, not as high as I'm going. And tonight we're going to work with a higher fade. So I'm coming all the way up to that temple and working way down to the parietal. That's the best way to delegate where to do a high mid or a low fade, huh? Not temple. That's recession. Correct. Yeah, I'm sorry. I got you, boo. Appreciate it. And again, that trips a lot of people up because some people come into a salon and they sit in somebody's chair like, Oh, yeah, I just want a low fade. And some people start getting a little shaky with their mid fade and they don't really know where to delegate it. So just these three points are perfect to keep for any person's head. Because even if they have a little bit of balding, their hairlines are a little different. Everybody usually has these three points to work with. So low, mid and high are in reference to how high it goes on the head, not how long the hair is. Correct. Because you can have a low fade with a ton of hair up here. It's called a Brooke or Brooklyn. Yeah, Brooklyn fade. So now what I'm doing is I'm combing all this hair down because we're going to take a lot off that top. We use my comb as a guard. And I'm just going to go up. A little trick to kind of help me later on. Blends it for me. Anybody have any questions so far? Alright, so we do have a couple of questions, Brian, do you want to read? Well, actually, first, someone's asking our girl Uni Walker question about men's cutting. If the hair is pretty grown out around the sides and back and I'm going to do sheer over comb. Would I go in and do a quick flat layer first and then going with scissor over comb? Like what would you recommend for getting bulk out if they're planning on doing scissor over comb? If they're planning for doing scissor over comb, I would say go take your bulk out but it depends on how short you're actually going to take the haircut. If you're going to do scissor over comb to keep it like a nice clean, a soft fade because you can still fade with scissors just takes a lot longer. I would say do that. One trick I would use is using a clipper like this with a three zero blade and just holding that hair out and just going across it. Clipper over fingers is a fantastic technique that a lot of people don't utilize. It's also great for cutting kids hair. But for someone like her, if you're going to again do that scissor over comb work, that'd be a great way to get rid of that bulk without have to take a lot of time out. Okay. And then our buddy Jose is also asking you, Justin, is that the end is super detachable clipper ideal for coarse, wiry hair? This clipper is ideal for any type of hair. The only difference I will say between this and your and this master series or anything like that is the fact that you're not going to be able to control. You're not going to be able control the length you're cutting. This is only cutting at a certain length because it's a blade, not a guard. So that's the only thing I would worry about. But these are great for cutting any type of hair. Well, they have a different speeds on there. So if you have thicker hair, you can use a higher speed or if you have finer hair, I mean, yes and no, that the speeds to me don't really do much for me. I'll use essentially the same speed on every except for a child. Justin has just made me. Yeah, aggressive. That's all the way. 11. Now, what if now what are your, what's your opinions on doing any kind of clipper cut while the hair is moisture in it? Well, with the clip depend on the clipper. I was going to say that it's it's certain preference and certain clipper. I was always taught that a clipper like the Ennis master series, which I'll be using next to never really use on wet hair. It cuts essentially like a typewriter where it's going in one direction. Whereas a clipper like this is cutting the entire time it's a rotary. So a rotary motor is cutting in a continuous circular pattern. Yeah, explain that. I don't know what you mean. One direction. One direction means the blade cuts over. And then it comes back. It's not essentially going to be cutting that hair on the way back. It's cutting a lot slower as well. Okay. Where as with these, it's cutting the rotary motor is cutting both ways back and forth. If you ever try to grab the blade on your Ennis master series, you'll be able to stop it from working in a heartbeat. If this is on, you're not going to grab that stop. It's going to keep cutting. It's a very strong motor. These are also the same type of clippers. The rotaries that you used to cut animal hair, horse's hair, dog rooming, just like kind of notch down for people. So these are meant to cut through anything. And there's not a lot of much space here. Since this comes off for hair to get stuck like the Ennis masters where wet hair would kind of fall down in there and clog up your whole clipper set up. Cool. Cool. I hope that was a no, that was great. We got more questions for whenever you get around to the hairline, but we're not there yet. So cool. Now with the metal guards, their blades are metal blades. You have a tendency to they have a tendency to heat up. Do you have any advice on like when to check how to check? Do you just ask your client? I kind of just it's different for everybody. If you're new to these, I would say definitely keep an eye on them. If you're not used to doing certain haircuts, keep an eye on them. But with me, I know I'm going through the hair real quick with this and I'm going to another one. So I'm not giving it that much time to heat up. It's definitely something to keep an eye on though, because no matter what type of clipper you're going to use, whether it's the metal guard or the Ennis master series with the plastics on it can still get warm. So you want to make sure you keep an eye on it. What am I doing tonight using the most loud tools humanly possible? That's how we roll. That's cool. Cool. So I went through, like I said, that three and three quarter guy and it took out all my bulk. Now I'm gonna go in. So we know that this question is going to come up, Justin, just so we can get it out of the way. Why wouldn't you start with your shortest guard first? It's a preference. Everybody has different ways they like to cut hair. I've never cut David's hair before. So I'm going to play a little safer at the moment. And I'm going to take a lot of my hair off. I'm going to fade down. See how his hair is going to sit as I get with a lower guard. After cut a person's hair once or twice, they know how their hair is going to move. I know it's going to fall. What calyx are going to do. But if you cut one way into a calyx on the other side of the head, it might not fall the same way. And you might have to feed up even higher. So I'm going to fade down with him right now. Okay. Cool. So what are you using now? We have my to my Ennis master series, but I don't have it closed. So it's as close as you can get to. Yep. So your three and three quarter metal blade is essentially like a two on your masters. Maybe like a three closed but it's not a huge difference. So you can fade this into that very nicely. Go a little slower just they can see as you like how you flick that out. I'm never coming straight up. I'm coming up and working my way out because you don't want to make a line. You want to just keep it nice and smooth the whole way down. And do you just choose where you want that liner you're going off the head shape? I'm going off the head shape and following that same slanted direction around the head flicking up as I work my way down. Now one other tool that anybody doing clipper cuts needs to have is a can of lubricant any type cool cares kind of taken over the industry around this is North American parts. These cans you speak for all of North America. Yeah. I'm a voice of the people tonight. So Justin real quick because we have both been or all of us really have been playing with the the Andis Supra clipper that they sent us. We had a question from Brandon Brandon Digital asked how the power on the Supra was it's a rotary motor seems strong but since it's a wireless clipper is the wireless holding any power back. This is a solid clipper. Yeah. What is it the BGR and the BGRC I think are the other corded clippers you can actually make cordless with a battery pack and this thing cuts a solid if not faster than those do. You also have the nice the speed setting on the side of some people really enjoy. I think it's a solid clipper. Definitely a great investment for anybody who wants to use the rotaries. Probably the best one I've ever used out there. And again now I'm just working my way back around going from that to close to that to open which blends right with my three and three quarter. So wait you opened it back up and you're going through just to just to blend any lines I might see because I don't want to have to go back up and pick up other blades that go along. Now I'm going to grab my one and these clipper guards that you're using we've all kind of invested in these there. We got them off. I got them off Amazon that got them at where'd you get them Sally's. They got them at Sally's or off Sally's Amazon. Okay. And then Justin had them when he started here but we we fell in love with them they're magnetic clipper guards so they attach with a magnet which is really convenient because they're easy to get on and off but they hold really solid and the actual blade itself. I love because it's it's a lot stronger than when you look at like the wall plastic guards and any other plastic guard that I've used these have they hold really strong. They're great but we actually got them because of their purpose. I really don't understand why we have to make clipper guards in in all these funny colors but and just real quick now I put my one guard on I close it all the way and I'm working away from one side of the head towards the middle and I'm doing the other on the opposite side. That was one thing that Justin taught me to do a little bit different that I liked was how he starts with the shorter and then just does a little bit and then opens that blade back up or opens the guard back up. Oh yeah opens the blade and then goes in to blend out that line rather than starting with it longer and intentionally blending from the get go it does move much faster. I mean essentially I'm doing both fading up and fading down because to fade up you put your line in you work up with another line and you blend the two out. I'm kind of doing both. I'm taking my bulk out working my down a little bit but I'm not putting that's that solid super short line in at first. When I feel like doing it this way also helps especially if you're a little newer to this and you're a little bit unsure but you know that you want to get to a certain you know shortness at the bottom working down this way will help to make sure that you can achieve where you want to be by the end and then just sort of go back and make the rest of the haircut work into that. Now while I'm working on the section I'm stretching the skin as I go I'm making sure not just let it sit there and going into it because you're not going to get the cleanest cut. So I'm going to stretch I'm going to take a little bit of time I'm going to comb any kind of hair away I'm going to see where my line is. In between you have a couple of markings here so you know that's your shortest that'd be your longest and in between there if anything's kind of giving you trouble you have all these different little markings to work off of some of them don't even have the markings on them clippers like this you just get a feel for it I'm loving David's like long right this looks like a yeah like way top awesome yeah it's delicious and is your mom and dad watching tonight probably I think my mom say hi to the show hi thanks for letting us borrow them just yell hi mom David you gotta yell it come on come on that's okay that was a hi mom I'll do it I think mine's watching uh do the andis magnetic comb attachments fit on the supra um no you won't I don't believe they do the there's plastic attachments that fit on the super guards um they're a little different they have uh little springs attached to the back of them because the metal blades get pretty big yeah whereas these stay stationary uh the entire time using it so they will fit on any adjustable clipper though that andis makes they redesign them from having uh two magnets on it to having one magnet in the center because andis may came out with a couple different designs and redesigned from two screws to one so this they weren't fitting on everything um so last year they came out with them yeah ours both me and dad's out yeah one even the new set I bought has the one magnet it does it works just as good I just am I'm personable to these ones Brandon was talking about how uh the problem with the magnets is they stick to everything including your scissors but I think the cool thing that we've done is on our stations they they attached to anything metal on the station so we so I you know I see Justin and that and and me like when we line up the clipper not even that but I mean if you have a can of cool care in your station you're good to go like or a lot of guys have those uh bracelets with little scissors on them you just pop them on there while you're working and it's uh it's fantastic sold cool care and great I'm not even working for and again a metal plate in your head if your guess has a metal plate yeah that too so what are you doing now what do you got now got me zero guard closed just flicking out right along that bottom we're not going to bring the skin super high he wants to keep it nice and clean he works in a restaurant does one look like a hooligan like the rest of us yeah yeah but scott's yeah we're scott's got a green mohawk so he took all the hooligan that was available for that location wait so um Philly bloke says I find the clippers with guards uh you have to go over and over I prefer to mostly fade with the blades any suggestions um I mean that's up to him if he can make it work with the blade that's awesome yeah I like the precision I get with the blades to take all that bulk up but I I like to this is essentially like finishing a haircut with dry cutting shears yeah you're not going to take like a big bulky puffin to get those small little ones that you have like your uh what's that one pair you use the the beaks yeah you know like the beaks are there to get into those certain areas and you will have to go over an area multiple times with these because they cut slower right um but that's what I like about them especially in somebody like him his hair super coarse super super thick like you're gonna get lines you're gonna have to go back in and work some stuff out and that was a big thing I remember uh I actually cut Justin's hair before he worked here for uh an American crew uh online contest for something Brian brought him in yeah as a model and I never left you know I'm not like I don't claim to be the best barber ever so I yes he does so I did um I had the Oster's 76 and I had the metal blades and I tried and tried and tried to get his fade to look clean and there was just a line in it that I couldn't get to go away my hair sucks and then the minute that I got your fade good I shifted it both like you I love uh the metal blades for a lot of haircuts and I do a lot of business guys I I like those for quick powerful let's get through it out of three three and like or uh three and a half or two yeah and then I move right into that if I need to I go into the masters I never really do typefades so I don't have to you know it's not what my clientele is so that like when you're getting in there I can see you and not see what you're doing and not your shoulder I'm sorry with that yeah it's a good thing that was in the mic but yeah so that's what I would say uh for me I think I like using both I think there is a purpose just like Justin was saying for both types um and that's not a huge investment to go with two different types of clippers and you're gonna have them for a long time and especially if you're buying quality equipment I have some people kivetch about I don't want to have to spend all this money I've had this pair of clippers for six years I've never had a breakdown on me once I've had my bgrcs it's another andis clipper um oh and the show's over I've had another andis clipper for about eight years never once give me an issue Justin real quick uh someone asked do you recommend using the cool care during the cut or just after when you're cleaning nope I use my cool care during the cut switching between blades it's it's also it's a big importance to educate your guests on what it is too a lot of people like what's that what's he spraying on there and you tell him this is an antiseptic among a looperkin and a a few other things so they feel even more safe when you're like yeah I'm just gonna make sure this is clean because who knows where that guards been since they sat in your chair right um and also your your clippers will collect hair as you work through them so you want to make sure that you're not letting that hair kind of clog up and heat up your blade now Justin especially with what you're using right now like let's say we're talking to somebody who is fresh coming out of school and they want to invest in like one pair of clippers to really get them started that's going to be nice and versatile yes is there one that you would recommend honestly if that grab them for me again sorry the the um and as envy said oh i love those because see i like the ones you have in your hand i love these but when people are starting out like if you don't if you've noticed i've turned everything off when i'm done using it because this entire casing is solid metal and if you let this sit off more than 15 20 minutes it uh if you turn if you let it run for 15 20 minutes it gets extremely hot and it's not just uncomfortable you it's uncomfortable your guests so that's going to borrow these guys for a second this pair is an entire plastic housing so this thing will not really heat up as much as that will so it'll give you more time to practice and really get comfortable with fading and it's also using the same purple guards that that one uses so it's all solid it comes with a fantastic edger that i love it has the longer teeth to it this thing is just solid it's second to my classic tan one but this comes in a kit together so i think actually i told him i had a hour-long conversation yesterday with somebody who was pretty new to men's cutting on my way home and uh that's the recommendation i think the kid was like 80 bucks on amazon and then the guards were 16 on amazon so i came with guards yeah it comes with guards it comes with the gray ones but the gray ones suck the purple guards are and it loves you and they love you they love you i love andis but their purple guards or the gray guards that come with that clipper i just feel won't get a clean tight haircut as this will yeah correct yeah they're good to start off with like if you no don't even start off them throw away but those are a little bit firmer so they're not gonna be they're gonna give you a better like cut now what do you say about blade sharpening you know what i'm gonna say if you need it you need it i've never done it i've never sharpened any of my clippers and i've used them for years i feel that they still give a solid haircut you know every instagram photo i take every photo i take every it's the same pair of clippers i've been using forever you know so i'm just going back through again with the zero finish up any stragglers i say and i'm using the mirror you guys might not be noticing but the mirror is gonna be your best friend in this it's like when you go to take a picture something and you see a line or shadow in it that you don't see with your naked eye the mirror is going to show you everything so with the the fade i've going on here pretty happy with it again nothing too crazy it's tight like a tiger i would also say if you think that your clippers need sharpened i guarantee you just need to take them apart i was just gonna get to that yeah i mean when i first got here how many clippers ran kind of we had terrible clippers they had great clippers they just didn't know great clippers yeah we had great expensive quality clippers but we had terrible maintenance yeah um yeah i remember you came and i was like oh you're supposed to take those apart yeah got it yep so now i'm going to use my and his t-liner um there's a slight difference between the black cased one and the gray case when i have when you buy them is a black case one has a little bit of longer teeth to it um tell me when i'm just gonna hold there either way it's in the one video i did of the tools i can't live and you did on danie as well was it danie did on yeah i think it was but uh they both give like a great a great line so now i'm just gonna work with uh his natural hairline a lot of people they go a little too aggressive with this kind of stuff let's go a little too happy and we're gonna keep it nice and low clean up the natural line there so i'm gonna just step my way back not trying to take too much off and now i'm gonna work from the middle out and again look your head for me uh one thing i see a lot of people do is when they're going to edge up someone's neck they have them look straight down when you have your guests look straight down you're going to distort that neckline and when they put their head up it could be even it could be crooked as heck you'd ever know what's gonna happen with it because that's not the natural position of their head so i always tell my guests to look straight ahead in the mirror and i just take my time cleaning this up otherwise you ever see those guys walking around the mall or supermarket with like their neckline up to here that's usually why i'm always that guy because i try to cut my own because you do well you do it yourself well and i think that raises a good question like i've gotten this so many times especially when i've taught any kind of men's classes they ask what do you do for a hairline and i think that just comes down to guest and stylist preference it comes to guest preference stylist preference a lot of them will say go just bust squared off well right i like okay natural as possible yeah so i mean one big way to get around that nowadays like hey have you ever had your neckline tapered out no what's that mean oh just keep it real nice and tight down to where the next start at the bottom so as it grows out it's not so fluffy that's not the other thing oh yeah try it usually when you do that you get so much of the bulk out from the bottom of the haircut that you can pretty much do whatever you want down there shift them around just remember people can't see over there yeah i'm sorry that's delicious it looks really good so again working our way around i work a little different some people do the sides then they work up top with their scissors i want to use this edger and then put it down and not pick it back up so and clean everything up try to do the fade and then everything else the scissor work and we don't do it this stuff you want to leave it there cool that is gonna be like cool bye yeah cool doesn't matter what you want now you're 13 that's not what i wanted to hear so that's not what i'm doing cool now with this top stuff you said you want to take about a solid that much off cool that's justin's dialogue throughout the day i hear him he's like so like that much cool i like it it's like super guy talk they keep him back don't they they do i know it works what's my book look like tomorrow it works it's all guys justin just do me a favor and shoot blow a kiss to leila from brazil oh jeez it's christina's cousin i know she's trying really hard to watch but she doesn't speak english and so she's like translating christina translate try to get it in there but she's watching and loving the show um so right now i'm going to use the 50 blade which is essentially an edger uh this is the tightest blade you can get um on the supers this is a austere guard they're interchangeable they all fit the same stuff so i'm gonna hold it in a different position than you used to most people used to holding it like this i'm gonna grab it like this almost like you're palming a pair of shears so you can still use your comb and this is a great technique for cutting kids hair you're just gonna take it drag it over the top your fingers now it's gonna work yeah let's spin them around how's that that a little bit more sorry i know get me in a corner here again comb it where you want it let's go right over the fingers so it's just like sectioning like exactly like you were grabbing for a pair of shears you guys will be able to see it on the other side i know i'm tough with the how you doing that there bud still awake david you're good cool again grab my section see my guide cut and this is one of my favorite techniques for cutting kids hair um no we're not like david because these squirms you're not a david isn't a kid he's the size of a grown man oh man like he'll hurt me after this if i'm not nice to him um but you know little kids you have in your chair the trick to cutting them is not cutting yourself while you're cutting them we're cutting them while they're you know doing cartwheels and stuff in your chair everyone's gotta learn yeah brian's like i'll cut you a couple weeks ago i have cut you but you still want to make sure you're being careful especially around the ears around the face of the kids because these the blades do get pretty uh pretty sharp so he's got a huge all right so then would it be okay if they went with something slightly longer than a five zero like maybe a triple zero to save your three zero four zero five zero it's still sharp no matter what you're doing this is going to get you a lot more precise cut almost like shears right but i'm just saying like if you're dealing with a like super crazy tesmeanian devil squirmy child maybe a couple less zeros i would say no matter what you're doing you're still going to get them no i'm talking about getting yourself oh no you're dig deeper you know you're good all right cool so we took a lot of that bulk out i was going to use my scissor real quick back here kind of shape this because he has like a huge swirl back here it's getting really fluffy now what you're what you just did on top is just to remove bulk or that's the actual haircut that's most of the haircut we're going to texturize a little bit with shears to point cut and use thinning shears and take some of the bulk out just ask if somebody asked if that's going to leave a heavy weight line because you're cutting with the clipper in those sections no no heavy weight line again it's the same you're gonna leave the same weight line for cutting with a pair of shears gotcha again just taking combing down almost like a pair of scissors or a comb yeah i'm in the way aren't i i like this haircut so much hair i'm gonna take up i don't even know what to call these shears what was the name of these i know they said they were the dual purpose or dual position yeah dual position i'm not sure i mean they're not like really available so well i have talk about so these are great uh you can't have them but i do so yeah well that's what i said i have them and they can't don't ever tell your head back a little bit awesome they're called the new mizzatani you can't have them yep you'll never have these so now i'm just going through the haircut and texturizing a little bit so it's not such a one length what's that all right can you just touch we're getting a lot of questions right now on cowlix and i think it's because we're getting to the cowlix swirls this area where cowlix are going to be a nightmare so shoot we just have like well before i started the haircut i kind of combed through and now we have a ton of hair you can usually see where cowlix gonna kind of cause you a little bit of a nightmare if unless they have like jesus locks down on their shoulders so i would say cut with that cowlick so that way you're not leaving is uh you're not gonna leave it so it's standing straight up if we look back here he's got this crazy cowlick but i didn't cut it to the point where the hair is going to stick straight up you can usually see where that hair starts to bend if you cut too close to the bend or beyond it it's going to be straight out we've leave a little bit of weight there uh you're usually going to be able to control it what else we got question wise justin can you just pull the mic a little bit away from your mouth there you go everyone's listening to you breathe oh sorry guys this is what happened the first time it's okay it's getting weird one girl says she has headphones on so she's hearing every breath sorry every breath you take yeah we'll be watching you okay so here's a good question when a male guest comes in do you wash and blow dry their hair or just cut the hair as is me personally everyone gets shampooed and blow dried um it's also a good way to educate your guests on how to style their hair i've had 55 year old men sit in my chair tell me that they've never had anybody show them how to blow dry their hair or why their hair isn't sitting right away when they leave the salon and that's a huge the huge part of this the huge part of the service because my whole view on men in the salon is that they're not treated like a guest treated like a guy they're treated like your brother or whatever yeah let's cut their hair real quick sailor mark oh well here comes drea she's gonna get balayage and color and a blow dry and here's a big ticket yeah they don't really they don't treat them like a guest they just kind of treat them like some guy so i feel if you kind of give them that little extra of actually treating like a proper guest you'll be fine yeah totally i wish i had a camera view on brian crawling whatever it would have been a secret if you guys just be quiet i know but it's you can't because everyone's paying attention to it anyway so there's a video of mine that brian crawls that's true i'm just gonna take a 32 to thinning shear nice clean shear i'm just gonna work my way into the top i gotta get you some as a tiny thinning shear so what's up i gotta get you some as a tiny thinning shear oh i have some i have a whole case of them i can't believe you're not even using them right now you're right no i'm just saying i should get i'm not i'm just now realizing that i haven't given you a pair of those justin yeah we hand out misatani scissors like it's can you get how do you feel about the andis black guards that are universal for all and his clippers i don't mind them but they're not my favorite i don't know i feel with the purple guards or something about them that just makes me happy i'm saying this right now they could be literally molded from the same mold but you just have a feeling i just have a feeling that i don't know the purple ones just are a lot more solid of a i mean he's used to this it's fine no more solid of a guard for me i'm a lot more comfortable with the length they cut to because not all guards cut the same length all right so i actually i don't know if you hit on this the five seconds that i walked away um is there a circumstance where you'll shampoo a guy's hair before you get in there we did that you did i will shampoo a guy's hair if they come with a ton of product i do hat hair if it's a little bit of if it's a little bit of product i'm usually taking most of the hair that has a product out with a long guard anyway and just blending it but if it's a ton of product i don't want to either dull my scissors or make it that much longer to do the uh but we always shampoo them after oh of course yeah always after always hot towel cool what else we got question wise it's like do we drain the questions already i don't think so i mean instagram that people have been saying i was gonna say like people are loving this calm down cool and now i want to show one last trick um with andis master series with your purple guards that i love so very much a lot of people um right when you say oh i want a three nobody really delegates because a lot of clientele um i'll be very blunt a lot of white guys don't usually ask for this but anybody with ethnic hair and very curly curly wavy hair if they come in you're not used to cutting that and they say i want a two always ask do you want a two with or against the grain um if you take a guard and you follow the swirls in the hair you're just going to kind of clean it up rather as you go against it you're going to chop it all off so one trick i don't know if you guys do this that often but i like to use to kind of take some bulk out it's nice to blend too i'm not sure what length i'm going to need but i'm going to use my four i'm going to just follow the hair what this does is essentially it's using it like a thinning shear so that way you're not taking too much off you okay back there we're solid okay solid hidden stinking up the place i will say last week when you were here i was with a guest your cedar computer insane nope but yeah so if actually you want to be favorite look straight down cool you see how his hair has this nice almost finger wave pattern that's what i'm following with the clippers i'm not going in to take off any length i'm just kind of using it to take off some of the bulk there's not a ton just a little bit awesome you can look up and now we're going to get you shampooed in a second and styled going off of what you were talking about how you got to like talk to you guys and like educate them of course i was cracking up but it was i think it was last night or two nights ago one of my guys who comes in uh i also do a sconce here and she was uh like saying like oh can you show me how to do this can you show me how to do this and then i get to the point of showing him how to do the styling and she starts asking questions he goes i'm paying attention oh he was your last guest right yeah he shushed his fiance because i was teaching him how to like styles hey he goes this is important part i'm learning here well the last step i'm going to do on the actual cut um i used to do after a hot towel but we got this fantastic shave gel in it's made by elegance it's freaking amazing uh i'm just gonna use this clean up around his hairline on his neck and stuff like that with straight blade pick this up on amazon right yeah we got it on amazon prime done i asked him for it one day and a half later it's here yeah so a full pump it comes out almost like hair gel i just primed something that is taking 10 days to get to me i just want to throw that out there how upsetting is that i'm actually so that wasn't prime no it's it's a prime item it's the distributor it's it is yeah i'm a little upset it's an action figure and i want it now so that i can like am i listening to brian talk or hate an action figure i know i i need more toys for when hayden comes over because that's why he likes to come over my house i never come over your house he just dropped you he's like i don't go there no it's because it's not until i get more toys he won't come back till i get much choice are you sure that it's upsetting because it's an action figure and you want it now i know 10 days doesn't sound very action either exactly so going back to how we treat our guests here at the salon every guy gets a shampoo every guy gets you know blow dried and product in their hair but every guy also gets a hot towel i think that is a huge a huge change from any other salon render again i've had 55 year old guests see they've never had a straight blade used on them which tonight i'm gonna be using my parker straight blade which i'm in love with uh they've never had a straight blade used on them they've never used a hot towel you know and it's little things like that which are the reasons our guests keep coming back cool cool it works cool are you done then and there's such a difference in if you use a straight blade rather than the treasure yeah like you can you can tell because a lot of our guys are on a two week schedule and um like even within two weeks if you just use a trimmer their neck hair is growing back but it but if you do the straight blade within two weeks it's definitely uh lasted a lot longer and it just grows in a lot softer i feel a lot of people out there if you're not comfortable with using this buy a straight blade again i love this parker um there's there's two different types of straight blades out there there's ones with a swing arm like i have the ones where it slides out i'm very prone to the swing arm ones now i just i picked this up and i fell in love with it i'm gonna turn him a little bit just upside down yeah by his feet now i'm just gonna turn him out end of the blade pausing the end of the blade and i'm just gonna follow down my area i worked again you're gonna make sure you're not gonna catch any pimples or anything you're gonna keep an eye out for everything i'm working on i can only give you might want to come on the other side of the chair justin if you can is that possible or nothing it is not not to do this justin come on the other side of the chair like that uh damon me on the other side is like it's not happening you mean you can't do a one-handed i can't do a reverse backhand on the other side of the chair on his neck cool next time can have some more space have a bigger work area and now just around the face area um some people will go in and reshape the whole hairline i am not one of those people it grows and kind of weird i feel especially if you have a guy that's coming in every two to three weeks if you're in there every week let's do it here and over there but turn just a little bit i'm gonna get the other side okay much feet she was gonna move the whole thing there you go cool uh on him we're just gonna go ahead and like i said clean up the natural hairline with a straight blade in Idaho stylists can't use straight razors well some place you might have to be a barber to use a straight blade what if they have moles moles just be very careful i i mean i would say use that your discretion some of them you'll feel are just pretty raised where you know it's gonna kind of get a little squirrelly so into it and you can find i mean you can find don't cut them all um because there are states where straight blade is is not legal you can find razors like this one has a pretty um i love that one this is a donald scott i forget exactly dsx the dsx or i use that yeah it has um it has a guard on the blade but very little guard so if you you know if you're like me and you're just like you're not as confident with straight blading someone like justin is that's perfect for me because it offers just that tiny bit of buffer yeah to still feel comfortable using it uh justin jose is asking are parker razors ideal for a hairdresser or can they get you in trouble for using them well if you have to check with your state um i don't know every state parker razors are you don't well i mean i'm being very it's a question i'm answering it um parker razor or any safety or any straight blade it's up to you i mean i i am just a fan of their products their solid quality products um parker manufactures this the blade itself i'm using as a persona again great blade really easy to work and the great part about that is we buy that box of blades off of amazon also for like 12 bucks and parker has a hundred blades yeah so i mean when you look at other me favorite like a feather feather blades you're gonna get that he's gonna put your work uh feather blades you're gonna get what like 10 a pack of 10 for they're made for haircuts but um so you get a pack of 100 for $12 so you can use a new one obviously on every person uh that donald scott do we have on our website this that we don't have this that's why i didn't know what it was um but donald scott nyc.com you can get this um the the straight blades though persona comes with a hundred other ones come in box of 50 someone come in a little packs of 10 i would say pick up a few different packs of 10 and see what straight blades you like right you want me to just sit down yeah take a load off i'll just have a seat now settle down a little bit thanks for joining me i'm a little warm that's fine just you got this you're killing it buddy yeah a great class ma'am thanks um all right so let's uh let's while david's getting finished up let's go over a few instagram questions and then we'll spin the wheel okay we'll finish up david and then we'll be good to go i actually had a couple of uh very similar questions first one i just want to blow through real quick uh brand underscore e uh i have a client super stubborn gray hair 75 gray started up front leaving the color on for 45 minutes and it doesn't cover any solutions yes use a different color line like there are just some color lines that are better at gray coverage than others um unfortunately i hate to say it sometimes it's a matter of your color line doesn't have enough ammonia to pierce through all the layers of cuticle i discover former redheads tend to be the hardest ones to cover their grays with the gentle gray coverage lines i was gonna say i bump it up to 30 a lot um i've known color lines to recommend if you double the amount of color to developer you can get better coverage really yeah i literally never heard that and i've worked with you for three years i learned it when i um today she today what do you know she went on the back of a cereal box before i worked here i was training to be an educator with um original mineral all color line and that was their recommendation talking to you oh it's uh it's an organic ammonia uh ammonia free line and uh i don't trust ammonia free yeah i mean what i learned well what i learned from working with them is they will get you to point a to point b but well little tricks like that but just because they're not using ammonia doesn't mean they're not using a chemical just as harsh it's just ammonia free it's not any better sorry you need chemicals to get the job done right yeah otherwise people should be rubbing berries in their hair let's like the people who come in like i don't want any shampoo that's not all naturally is on me or any products do you have any products that's all natural no who says that we i have three guests who say that to me and two of which come to you i don't know two of which always ask me oh what color lines have you found that are or what product lines can you can you get me that are not uh that are all natural i'm like here's a stick of butter yeah what did you get hey hey thanks dad so real quick with this cut um before i go ahead and style him excuse the mirror to check everything make sure uh no uh lines popped up there's no heavy spots that were hiding i'm pretty happy with it that looks so good and cool really gonna grab the blow dryer if you want to mute my mic since this thing is uh very loud our house i cut david's dad's hair i hope he doesn't want this haircut yeah that mic does a good job i think all right that's awesome i want to hit another question yeah uh hair by jonathan v asked favorite toners to achieve an icy look i don't know what line you use but if you're looking for an icy look i think one of the best things that you can do after you pre-lighten them tone them first to get them as neutral as you can and then go in with whatever with whatever toner you think is going to give them the icy kind of look that they're looking for don't expect to tone them from lightener and just end up with the icy look like you kind of should hit that middle step first so you're probably going to tone them twice i think is a good way to go can we put put you on the task of creating that video of yeah how to make icy looking hair yeah all right i'm good with that let's do that uh not this monday next monday i'm free okay okay sounds good all right uh want to do another one sure yeah let's see hold on i lumped a whole bunch together uh oh i actually like this one if you don't mind just taking it a step away just to bring it back to like old school can my mic go round table conversation i'm having a problem uh red 0688 says i'm having a problem with some of my clients that are trying to haggle my prices my last salon was a place of coupon overload and i think they feel since they followed me that they should still receive discounts even though i've been booth running for two years now uh any advice on how to handle hagglers let's start with the boss i mean no no not you bruce springsteen he's calling it oh okay i'm just kidding go ahead um i honestly i would say that i don't know we've do we really deal with hagglers that often every now and then i've even had a few yeah let's since we're pausing let's pause and i'm not to answer that question when i blow dry his hair you guys well pause blow dry when i was blow drying i took the blow dry and i just followed the swirl pattern of the hair so it'll kind of lay a little nicer um uh if you can see right now there's no real sticking up back here in that crazy cowlick section because i just left a little bit more weight there so we can kind of fall down do its thing um told him when he blow dries just direct that heat forward uses fingers uh used tonight uh the mitch line reformer uh just a little bit on my finger most out of my hands and brought it through and now just finishing up asking him what's he think what you think dave look at that smile we got teeth we got teeth zoom into that dad let's see that close up extreme close up all the way now i'll just see the spindle back yeah i think the ladies are gonna love it yep too bad you don't have school tomorrow all right right i know he's we've known him since he was really little nine months so awesome i so haggling haggling i i mean what are they gonna do i i could go into best buy and be like i don't want to pay this for well i think this computer it's not so much it's not so much that it's not i don't think it's so much a well i think the haircut should be this i think it's more like i don't know i this is something that i've wrestled with a lot myself and i i finally because people feel bad about what they charge right because i i feel bad and and i actually have after having a lot of conversations with draya i realized where it came from for me was because i didn't grow up in a family that had a salon or had hairdressers so i didn't understand this business so in talking to draya she sort of explained to me she's like you gotta understand like it is what it is and you know the the the guests have to understand that these are the prices and what's good about a place like ours is it's okay if they don't want to pay my prices because we have that tiered pricing system right really comes down to just cost then we can recommend something for next time but for this time this is what it costs right which is good but i also believe that you like whether you grew up with a salon in your life or not i i think and i know you're saying but like um i think it's because like i have a hard time charging certain prices because i the way that i grew up we couldn't have afforded those prices so i think as hairdressers that maybe didn't come from money or certain things when you think about charging $80 for a haircut and $200 for a color it doesn't seem realistic so then all of a sudden your confidence goes down and then the person that's in your chair might be like you know i didn't really want to pay that and then so the then the conversation goes back and forth so you have to be careful i think um when you're uh you know just have the confidence that you're worth that's what that's what hair costs now like hair is more expensive nowadays it'll probably be different based on your area for sure um the average haircut in america is i think 38 to 42 something in there so you know and you could be below that you might be above that but look at your area and don't be afraid to charge because no matter what your time is what is going to like how much you charge for your time is what your paycheck gonna be but i would like to say that it is also a business and the greed gets a good part of people not to cut you off but everyone wants to raise their prices also but we're not talking about raising prices we're talking about getting the prices that are asked for yeah like this is like clients coming in what the price is and wanting a lower price than what it says and it's it's it's one of those things that it does happen and it just it comes down to it and i also had you know there's a thing floating around on facebook right now that i love that says friends will ask for discounts real friends will pay people that aren't friends do they come in and ask you blatantly can you give me a deal but wait no listen to the the rest of that was friends asked for discounts real friends will pay for your time so it's the people that say they're like we're buddies like i met you before hey throw me a couple bucks off yeah no i mean strangers don't ask for discounts that much but there are people that here yeah i i think people don't understand what a haircut so how did you so i get that right but i think in general i don't think people ask us for what you know if ever there's a doubt in my mind i make sure i go over price first yeah and that's right one of the things is during the consultation talking about what your budget is for your hair and working within it obviously not lowering your prices to meet their budget if that's not what it is but right like i i had a guest she came in i'll never forget this she came in this is like a year ago and she uh had long dark hair and she shows me a picture of the kim kardashian when kim kardashian had like the roots with the white hair and she's like this is what i want and i said okay so i'm going through everything and i explained to her well this is what i'm gonna have to do and this is what it's gonna cost to do that she goes oh well i only have this much to spend and i said well i'm i'm sorry that's not what this result costs so let's find another alternative so we use what she was willing to spend and i gave her as much service as i could for what she was willing to spend what i also think here it helps because we do have that element system i know when i take a phone call for a new guest coming in i have the verbiage with them are you looking to work with anyone in particular and then i explain the elements and what that means as far as pricing for them so they understand what it costs to get their hair down here and either people choose an element based off of what they want or i've had people say oh i'm sorry that's not what i thought and not get their hair done yeah but that way it eliminates the haggle in the chair when they already know what it is upfront yeah i think i'm assuming people already go over prices and they don't you guys are just all well trained to do that so i think yeah i think the easy the easy answer to that is people know already like i'm taking that question like they already know and then they're trying to barter yeah haggle like oh it's going to be this for your foil this for your single color whatever and then somebody's like oh no it's not i want yeah so we so we have then so quick answer with that and i guess we can sometimes take that for granted we go over pricing first yeah and if there's a problem with it we have other prices right there's either other levels or and we're cool like if you don't want to pay the prices we've had people call up and say oh well that's a little too much i'm going to go somewhere else like okay yeah luck to you all right i mean reality is this is a hair salon it's not a flea market it's going to cost more when i have to fix it just saying all right sweet what else we got anything we want to do one more and then uh yes um god i wish that i'd known that you were how do we say one more sad one more time oh sad uh here all right here's one going off of what we were doing tonight when cutting facial hair do you prefer using a clipper trimmer or scissors i will say it depends on the amount on average like my go to will be an edger um a trimmer of course uh i'll i'll kind of go down that but if some guys want to kind of keep the length i will use a uh a clipper i don't usually do shears too often on facial hair unless it's a very long wizard beard um and i'm sculpting it but even that i'm going to comb it and i'm going to use an edger or clipper and kind of sculpt the whole thing i try to keep scissors away from the face jay what do you use on your beard trims no no oh yeah that's like asking how many bobby pins i do with an updo sorry if you have facial hair and you want it trimmed you're going to one of the guys it's not happening obviously look at her brother that's cool i just want to get all right sweet yeah i'm good fine we're good yeah we did a question yeah we did it's we we ran all right so Hayden Hayden did come to spin the wheel he's ready we have we have to pick someone okay swept through quickly and i landed on red zero six eight eight what is it red zero six eight eight red zero six six eight fat eight eight what do they have the chance to win all right so they got some ergo brushes or what are we that just picked up the mic like aro smith yeah get him a handkerchief i want to get a mysterious microphone stand all right hayden wait so we have ergo they have a very ergonomically correct tools whether it's hayden that's the right word right yeah okay you're laughing like it is the word now they have ergonomically correct tools from brushes to blow dryers to smoothing irons to uh you name it i love them they're great quality uh then we have dial scott razors uh these razors are designed so that you can have a comb scissor and razors we got minerva for all your salon needs that's right on education for all your salon education needs and matt what are we giving away what are we giving we're giving away what are you giving away i know i'm trying to think i i can hayden hayden uh oh all right um we're gonna give away a some cool ys park stuff all right awesome we got some ys park stuff all right so we got sunlights for all your balayage needs we have mainstream for the stylist on the go we have amika for some styling products as well as uh styling tools no i think that's yeah i think that's the stylist exactly all right so now then we have all plex for all of our uh chemically dependent uh clients so that way they can keep their hair nice and healthy we have mesutani for anybody who needs scissors because we all need those and we wanted them to last a lifetime a lifetime uh we got minerva again we got free salon education again we had again we got sunlights again and then we have jay lace jay lace is for the stylish hairstylist stylist stylist yeah five times fast why does this man not work for the price is right all right i just like go check out their website to find out all their t-shirts and all the rest of their swag as well as to see your one and only justin scott oh hey i'm like the shirtless i don't remember then we have parker razors which you just saw uh justin uh using on the hairline it's a great razor you guys want it we got it all right yes can hey didn't wait hey and wait wait for it wait so it's r e d oh god i forgot no no i got it red zero six eight eight red zero six six sorry red eight eight red zero six eight eight on instagram all right here we go that's giving you a new instagram name there you go hayden nice spin bud good spin buddy what do we got what do we got what do we got all right what's it going to be it's so awesome i know but all of us can't beat that there's a new commercial all of blacks all right there it is okay that is the show that is the show justin fantastic class hey thanks man hill dad let's screw this up really good um very excited and um let's see what else follow brian here oh and oh yeah forgot today we found out that um instagram now has a way to connect to accounts so this is very up to five accounts so this is very exciting that's going to take over all of our accounts no i'm not but i i i am i am very excited about the fact that uh you can run multiple accounts at a time so you should have everyone right professional instagram with hair which is going to be very exciting coming up working on it everybody's gonna start focusing on um i don't think professional goes into justin's uh so less reckless and normal reckless so professional instagrams which is going to be really fun start seeing some hair going through that uh and that's you know that's that but um so follow brian here hairstyle for now draya drayday 2289 justin i am justin scott fad i was thinking with that ballinized that ballinized christina as underscore steamy hayden's instagram is non-existent not a laugh follow us on everything free salon education thank you guys so much for watching next week we will be focused on when is your pixie cut that not next week but the following i believe it's 24 the 24th so we'll be doing two winstays from now two winstays from now next week so we'll do a haircut next week that's a vanarchy then we have fad a host um we have fads uh fads doing a pixie cut in two weeks um yeah it's gonna be a scissor over comb uh pixie cut oh i'm excited i'm gonna wear a tank top and wear cameras for that one all right sweet all right guys thank you so much for watching we'll see you next week right here on fsc live goodbye the only place crazy enough to put justin scott