 Hi I'm Donald Scott from Donald Scott NYC and I'm here with free salon education and this is my beautiful model Allison. Allison is a doctor or going to be a doctor so we're going to perform some surgery on her. Okay all right what I'm going to do now is I'm using the Y-tooth comb, our Y-tooth carving comb, 50% carve, 100% carve and I'm using the Y-teeth because she's got curly hair and she has thicker hair and I'm going to be using the Y-tooth comb and I'm mostly going to be using our billet aluminum chopstick that has a guarded edge to it okay and we're going to start out. We're going to take diagonal sections from the from the occipital bone and we're going to take diagonal sections following the head shape following the head shape and going right into the side section of hair okay we've actually taken one section I just felt it out a little bit so I've got one two three cutting edges in my hand at the same time carving comb chopstick pro Donald Scott NYC okay I'd like to use the clip also we prepared Allison's hair with our liquid tool glide has coconut and sunflower oil and silk powder which prepares the hair and allows the razors to slide effortlessly through the hair so we've just tried this is a working tool prepares a working tool so we we layer that we layer the prepare on the hair as we go so I'm going to continue taking taking sections nice thin sections okay keep my fingers and either we can slide it through and the reason why we could cut curly hair is because we prepare the hair with prepare there's plenty of myths out there they say we can't cut curly hair we can't cut we can't cut dry hair but we can because we we prepare the hair with prepare we also have a little bit of a kind of a chopping motion or I'm over directing backwards and just sliding through remember hold your razor at a nice 45 degree angle okay and I'm going to be building that weight again following the head shape take your sections nice and clean over direct back okay continue always comb from the regrowth area let me take one more section I'm going to slightly elevate I don't want to get too much bulk behind the ear and let's see what we've got what we've got here okay now I'm going to continue these sections till they get to the corner of the ear this is great I love my chopstick okay continue over directing and actually what we'll be doing is releasing all the weight in her hair notice I'm actually going actually all the way to the opposite side again elevate I love this technique this is because it's going to this the full line is going to come out okay we're going to be doing a lot of free form we're going to be doing a lot of free form work with the 50% carve on the white on the y tooth carving okay we're at the corner of the ear I think I'm going to take one more section and notice other than other than other razors out there we're doing it's a nice smooth it's not really a chopping effect it's a very smooth glide and the razor just glides through that hair the pip hair is excellent with the glide that's it's specifically designed to allow the razor to glide through the hair it seals the cuticle layer it allows the razor it saves your blades it saves the blades it seals it it protects the hair protects the cuticle layer comb down and see your shape I'm going to take the 50% carve I'm just going to come into it and just carve out those edges a little bit this is great if you've got a line of demarcation you want to this is what I mean by being spontaneous with it we're at the corner we're going to take a diagonal section because I'm working off her existing length I like to start out with my shape wet then I like to come into it I like the hair to be dried and then I come back into it and do my free form so this shape may change even not drastically but may change as we go along again take a diagonal section I always like to take a diagonal section because I'm always working with the with the facial shape always comb from that root area and again she's got that nice texture in their hair so I'm doing everything to build it out okay what I'm looking at and I'm going to look at she's not getting too thick down there which it is a little thick but I can always wait till the last last minute or when the hair is dry then I could do my my my redefining which has got a lot of hair where'd you get all this hair when I can't reach I always have my my guests do the do the do the work my last couple sections on the light side of the hair on the light side of the head I love this technique okay I like to comb it flat and then come back into it just to see my shape and just scrunch it okay and I'm going to stop with this shape on the light side of the head for now I'm going to bring her back to the opposite side have Anna nice and clean see over direct backwards this is a nice side see how this just comes right in notice how that here is just coming right into it okay always remember your sections of the direction that you're cutting in whatever way you section the hair is the direction that your hair is you're cutting your hair give myself a little check here oh my gosh it's even looking good looking good Deb Allison again over direct backwards you don't have to be afraid because it's a guarded razor notice as I'm coming up with this movement I'm just releasing more of the weight let's see where we're going with this we're staying on point I love textured here and curly hair continue notice the sections I'm going right into the side section my blade is still nice and sharp I like to use a new blade on each on each guest sometimes I don't have to and sometimes I've got such coarse hair that I'm used that I'm cutting with that sometimes I'll change my blade in the middle they are cut I really want this to open up now so we still have a visual here okay just glide through keep your fingers parallel to the parting the wide tooth carving comb is such an excellent tool for this this thickness of hair luscious gorgeous curls and Allison actually got some highlights yesterday which was great you read my mind I'm actually cutting the interior shape first because I'm going to have those creative options so when we finish when we finish the shape I'm liking all what's going on here wow you have a lot of hair at our salon we charge we charge by the pound okay right from the root area actually we've had one section throughout this whole shape we've got the beautiful chopstick pro by Donald Scott NYC we're here with free salon education in New York City it's a little heavy I'm seeing it's a little heavy I'm going to just pick up this section a little bit I'm going to take the 50 carve and I'm just going to come underneath with it and just take out a little bit of texture I just want it to be just so it's not so heavy here and I'll be doing that all the way up the shape that's why you could be very spontaneous with with our tools coming back over with the 50 percent actually I'm going to come straight through that whole section see it I came right through it getting into the fringe area again my 50 carve just to release some of that weight layer on the prepare now notice she's still a little thick and in her fringe area just comb this all down and see where we're at with it I'm going to give it a I'm going to resection how you doing Alice and you okay into there love okay I'm picking up my section from the back just going to come into it and just doing some pinch carving I just thought it was a little heavy on her and I would just bring this up a little bit I think it's a better shows her neck a little bit better just take this off a little bit heavy and below the nape I'm going to come into it love this technique use a little prepare I think I might leave this a little bit on the asymmetry side okay this is the shape this is the preliminary shape we used our chopstick pro by Donald Scott NYC for its free salon education we use the y tooth carving comb 50 carve 100 carve we use the y tooth carving comb because the hair was thick and wavy and I'm Donald Scott for Donald Scott NYC with free salon education I keep saying free form because that's our technique free form of precision thank you so much for joining us so this is our finished product this is Allison and this is her beautiful beautiful beautiful beautiful wavy curly hair and this is what we do with our razors and so we dispel the myth that we cannot cut curly hair with razors so this is this is this is the proof in the pudding but I'm going to take we still have the y tooth carving comb and I still have my chopstick so I'm just going to go through it and if there's any heavy pieces I'm just going to come into it and just kind of just pick off pieces that are a little bit heavy the blade still seems to be sharp okay just and so this is my free form this is the epitome of free form we call this our pinch carving because we're actually pinching pinching the ends and just combing through it top seems to be a little bit heavy I'm going to take that top up a little bit I'm just take my channel carve I'm just going to come in through it if you have any questions on any any of the looks that we've done or any of the tools that you'd like to use is or you would like to learn more click on Donald Scott NYC or one of our links at the bottom of the page and thank you so much and thank you very much Matt Beck and Dustin from Free Salon Education