 Hi, I'm MPI. Part 2 by DigiKey. This week is RichTech, your power partner. Yeah, partner. Dada, what is the IONMPI, the new product introduction of the week, this week? OK, to no one's surprise, it's a Power Chip from RichTech. They're really good at making Power Chips. So this week, it's the RT-6160A. It sounds like this is a very small chip with BGA. Mounting is designed to be very small. But don't let the size fool you. This is a very powerful chip. So it's a very interesting and very useful kind of all-in-one power supply and management chip that you could use for, especially something wearable that uses batteries. It's a three-amp output buck boost converter, which is like a massive amount of current, or sorry, the switch, I think, is probably three amps, which means still you can get an amp of load or more. And it's a buck boost, which means it runs from as little as 2.2 to 5.5 volts. And then the output can be anywhere between 2 and 5 volts also, something like 2.83, 3.3, 3.5 volts are all valid. And you can use the I squared C interface. It has to configure the voltage output. So you can dynamically change it. You don't have to use resistors to fix the voltage. If you want, you could start running your code at 3.3 volts, and then you can drop it down to 2.8 later. Yeah, sorry, it does have up to three amps of output current, especially in buck mode. It's going to do great for that. Boost mode is 2.5 amps max, but still a huge amount of current. And an amazingly low quiescent current of one microamp non-switching and I think another one or two, two microamps total typical quiescent current, which is unbelievably low. Even most LDOs don't go really below like 10 microamps. So amazingly low quiescent current, high current, and high efficiency output. And it's configurable over I squared C. So it does everything you need in the power supply chip. A lot of people ask me, when would you use a buck boost converter versus an LDO? And I use LDOs all the time. And in particular, I use the RT9080 a lot, which I'll show in a second. Which is an LDO from RichTech. And the LDO stands for low dropout because basically have the input on the left, and they have this power MOSFET that you kind of turn on and off with this op amp circuit in the middle. And you basically tweak the amount of voltage on the FET until the output is the voltage you want. So VN always has to be above Vout. So you can have five volts in, and you could have 3.3 volts out. But then all that current in between is burned off as heat. Like that 1.7 volt difference, you have to dissipate that out. And so it's good for low current, low efficiency, because you maybe don't care you're running on a battery and you don't want to have the space with the expensive buck boost converter. As long as the VN is pretty close to the Vout, maybe the dropout is so minimal, maybe it's still within 90% efficiency and low noise. Like I mentioned that I really like the RT9080. This is like a go-to LDO for our low cost boards where we don't have a buck or a boost converter. And what's nice about this board is it's got, again, very low quiescent current, like five microamps or less, which means on this itsy-bitsy ESP32 here, if you look on the left, you can see in deep sleep mode, the ESP32 is maybe five to seven microamps and the LDO is three microamps. It's just unbelievably low current. Compared to other chips, which we use like the AP2112, which has like 50 microamps of current, just makes a big difference. It's like basically means you get five times as much of one time in deep sleep as you would. So a lot of people when they're designing wearable or portable projects, they're gonna be powering stuff off of a... Oh, sorry, I can move to the... This is loud. Yeah, sorry. I just wanna make sure we don't skip ahead. They're usually running off of a lithium-polymer battery. So the lithium-polymer battery, they're called 3.7 volts, but really, they have a nominal of 3.7, but they start at 4.2. It depends a little bit on the temperature as well and the drainage. So here this is, that see here is the drain rate. So assuming you have a low drain rate, 0.2 of, if it's a 1,000 milliamp hour, it means it's your 0.2 times the milliamp hour in milliamps is the rate. So if you're drawing like 200 or 100 milliamps or less on average, you start at 4.2, which is well above 3.3 volts or where you normally use it. But then as you kind of drain more current, especially high current, the voltage droops quite quickly and then you very fast get close to 3.3 volts or even below. And so you see even, especially if you're doing spikes of current because you have like a radio or you have a motor, you can quickly have the voltage of the battery dip below your 3.3 volts nominal voltage and it'll go down to 3.1 or 3, but there's still plenty of capacity and current inside. So you want to use something like a buck boost. So when the voltage of the battery is above 3.3 volts, you'll buck it down and you use an efficient buck converter so you're not losing any of that dropout voltage. And then if it's below 3.3, you'll boost it up and a really nice design as you see here, it's all inclusive. So you'll need one inductor as a generic example, you need one inductor, input capacitance, output capacitance and then a resistor divider to set the output voltage. These tend to be more expensive than just a buck or a boost and they oftentimes have a little bit more complexity. But what I really like about the RT6160 is how simple it is. Like this application usage schematic, it's like you really just need an inductor, it needs to be a big inductor, you need input capacitance, output capacitance and you don't need a resistor divider because the default output is 3.3 volts and then you have a couple of GPIO lines for a I squared C configuration enable and signal. The signal is what determines, that I'll show you later, there's two voltages you can switch between and of course enable takes it into low power mode. So not a lot of pins, not like there's no like strapping capacitors and like feed forward and then compare it to the TPS series. The quiescent current here is two to five microamps compared to 15 to 25. So for deep sleep, it's gonna make a really big difference. Okay, and then it is a BGA, it's a WLCSP. It's very small, it's designed for like obviously like very tiny circuits. I can definitely see it being used for audio circuits where sometimes you are gonna, like I said, motors, radios, where you sometimes need to connect over wifi, you have a burst of 500 milliamps or one amp of current, but otherwise it's going to be very low current sipping and you want to maximize that battery because by using a buck boost with this low quiescent and I'll show you the configurable battery, you can really like get that last five, 10% of battery life out without harming the battery, but keeping your circuitry running. One thing just to note is, it's not a wide range input output, it is basically two to five volts in, two to five volts out. The output current is three amps, which is a lot, just make sure that your battery supports that, that's a huge amount of current, especially if you're boosting it. I think of the boost, like I said, it's 2.5 amp, that's still a lot. That could be sucking four amps out of your battery. So obviously if you're using, you use this for RC circuitry, but a small battery won't be able to provide that. You need one of those like 18, 650 or something batteries. Okay. Next up, I squared C is really simple. There's a couple of stats, there's a device you can read, and then there's a V out one and V out two register. I think these are all 16 bits wide. And so you can set the output, you're like, why is there two outputs? Because you actually will switch between them, which makes sense because usually you would set this up to have like 2.8 volts and 3.3 volts and then use a GPIL to like immediately switch between the two voltages. This means that when you want to go into a different mode, you don't have to send the I squared C signal over and over again, you just switch back and forth. So when you're doing the radio or you're doing the motor, you can go up to 3.3 volts or you need, or 3.5 or four volts. And then when you're not using this like high voltage, high power peripheral, you bring it back down. And then if you have a mic controller that has clock, you can PLL adjust the clock, combine that you can have your mic controller running as at little as 2.5 or 2.3 volts. And at a lower frequency, you can save a ton of current while still keeping your mic controller running. So a lot of power savings can be squeezed out by using this chip. Here's the layout. One thing I like is it is a BGA, but at least you don't have to like get signal out from the middle. You can use this. I mean, they have a four layer board here, but it's not a bonkers four layer boards. Like you're not using any, it doesn't look like you need any bird vias for it. Well, of course you can't. And then there's a valve board available. So ready to go. Input output and all the configurations on little test clip leads. So if you want to get started, all this stuff in and stock. A digickey. That's right. The other prize is like a less than a dollar and 50 in quantity. It's amazing for a buck boost converter, three amp output. Okay. And that is I have a present. On MPI.