 No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no. No. Okay. So first up. First up, we have a revision for e-ink displays. You'll see, you know, we're going to be doing revisions every week or two because in the industry certain chip sets are just continued to replace with other chip sets. So this is the 2.13 inch e-ink monochrome feather wing. It was using an SSD 1675 chip set is now using an SSD 1680 chip set. What's the difference? Not much really. It actually pretty much acts the same. I think it's maybe a little bit faster. The display looks the same. It's the same resolution. However, it is a different chip set. And so you'll have to update your code. We are library supports both. So you'll have to change it from SSD 1675 when you include the header file to 1680. Otherwise, it'll work just fine. All right. Next up, we've got some more Molex picoblade cables, compatible cables. These are 1.25 millimeter pitch cables. This is a two pin cable. And you can see it's got two connectors, one on each end. And they're symmetric. So it's like if you connect one end around, they're the same on both end. Pin one connects to pin one on the other one. We also have all their sizes. We have three pin. We have four pin, five pin, six pin, seven pin, eight pin, nine pin. I think 10 pin. We've got a lot of pins. Each one has on the end a 1.25 millimeter Molex picoblade compatible pitch. This is great when you don't need to carry amps. It's good for maybe a half amp or so. They're not terribly long. They're about 20 centimeters, but they're very compact. You can get a lot of pins in a small connector, but you could still kind of hand solder the connectors, SMT or through-hole onto your PCB. We see picoblade compatible cables a lot. They're very cute. So maybe I'll show one on the overhead real fast. So this one is the seven pin. So let's just demonstrate it again. They're all going to be the same except for more pins. So this one, you can see black is pin one. So it goes black, red, white, yellow, green, blue, and then the same over here. So you can flip these back and forth. We'll take them whatever in there. They're the same cable on both sides. And then we've got the four pin one. So pick whichever one you like. Of course, you can cut these in half and have two pigtails if you like. But it is kind of nice to have two cables, two ended cables. And again, we've used picoblades quite a bit. We use them for speakers when a JST SH even is or a pH is too big. And we like the compactness of the JST, sorry, of the Molex picoblades. So we've seen these in robotics and drones use these a lot as well. Okay, next up. Next up. Okay. So we've got an update to a very popular board, which you might find familiar. It's the MCP 9808, which we are going to still stock in the original version. Which has been terrorizing space, apparently. Apparently. We have it now in STEMI QT format. This is one of the few boards in which we're going to actually carry both versions, both the STEMI QT and non-STEMI QT. Because a lot of people were using the previous one ahead of the address pins broken out. And so I was like, well, I think it's worth it to carry both for a bit. And then we'll see if people really want to just move from one to the other. I think we also have a demo. Is this the current part of the next one? Oh, this is the next one. Sorry. The next product is, it looks so similar. It's the HEU 31, which we showed on a previous INFPI, I don't know if you remember. This is from TE. And they have made wonderful sensors. The HEU 21D is a very common temperature and humidity sensor. This one's great too. It's got the same 2% relative humidity, accuracy. This one has much. Oh, is this the star of the show? This is the star of the show. Oh, the star of the show tonight besides you, Lady Eda, and our entire team is this. Yeah. I'm sorry. Because it looks so similar. Yeah. Since Glenn's got great temperature accuracy, it's 0.2 degrees C plus or minus. And I've got a little demo to show it off here. We've got Arduino and Circuit Python code for this. This is very, very zoomed in. Okay. So I've got it here on my feather. It's got the StemicUT connector for quick plugging in to my feather board. I've got OLED just showing off this demo. For this version, one of the things I did is you can see I have a little cutout. That gives it a little bit of a thermal isolation. So if you are using it with a couple other boards that's nearby, the heating of those boards won't affect the sensor as much. That said, what's nice is that this one's from 2 to 5 volts on its own. So there's no regulator on this board. Just needs a couple pull-ups and capacitors. It's got a reset pin, which I like, a hardware reset pin. I always like that. You can always get the sensor into a good state if it gets confused. It's got an address pin. So you can have two of these on one I squared C bus, address 40 or 41 hex. The data that comes out of it has CRC. So you can make sure, like a lot of sensors, they don't give you CRC data. The data you read is data you read. It's a high noise environment, or maybe you don't trust that maybe the data you're getting hasn't been tampered with or has noise or some other feedback or something that is causing it to add or drop a bit. The CRC means you can make sure that the data you're getting is correct. And it's also got a little self-heater. So you can use that to burn off any condensation, especially when you get to high humidity or if there's a wetness that splashes on it, you can kind of evaporate that off and then get true gas humidity sensing. So this is quite good. I mean, like it's a little warm because it's been sitting under these lights. But the humidity is pretty accurate. And then, you know, when I hold it, you can see it reacts very quickly as well. So it's a very quick to react sensor. People really like the TE-HTU-21. So if you did, you're like this. It's basically the same price or less and even more accurate.