 That's right. Digikey and Adiv represent. NPI on NPI. This week the NPI is from Nordic. That's right. We hang out with them back when we could hang out with people. They used to visit Adiv for it all the time. Yes. I don't have a Nordic shirt, but I do have a particle shirt and they were a big Nordic customer too, so I thought I'd say the same kind of blue. So Nordic actually sent us one of their new Power Profiler Kit twos. We got it a couple of days ago and we thought this would make an excellent NPI because I'm personally excited. I love when tools that companies design for their own use get released as products because they have designed something that they know. We do that too. They know what they need. They're like, this is useful for us. That's useful. Probably going to be useful for you. It's going to be useful for you. And they did it at an excellent price. So usually a good power monitor can cost like $500 or up and they're worth it. They're good. They don't need the $500 plus power monitor. They really just need something basic that can differentiate current levels. It doesn't need all the fancy software knobs and high power and 12 volts, 16 volts. They just need something that's around 3 volt output, around an amp maximum, and the software that lets you plot the data to know whether your hardware is in low power or not. Because when you're dealing with wireless chipsets like Nordic makes, Bluetooth and cellular, and soon Wi-Fi, they just announced they're going to be doing Wi-Fi as well, you connect and then you disconnect and you go to low power and you go out of low power and you can't use a multimeter. A multimeter won't give you the precision, won't give you the accuracy, won't give you that dynamic range you need to see really what's going on. Also you need to integrate over your current usage to know how long the battery is going to last. There can be some pretty intense math to really model how long your battery will run. If you have something that runs on a coin cell for a year, you don't want to wait a year to find out whether it ran. You'd rather do the mathematical calculations and then give yourself some buffer and extrapolate how long the battery will last. That's way smarter than waiting a year. Trust me, I know we're testing low power and I'm actually looking at the fridge, the bag tag once a day to see if it ran. I know in a month if the battery ran out but it would be cool if I didn't have to. The new Power Profiler Kit 2 is out and this is a standalone power profiler. The previous one was built into a dev kit, which makes sense because you have dev kits you want to make sure that the power of it is as low as it can be. For a lot of people they have a standalone design and there's a standalone power profiler and it's really beautifully designed and it's straight to the point. All it does is plugs it over USB, it has a power switch, it has a power input output you can see on the PCB, the documentation, it has some GPIO and I think it's even driven by an NRF-D2840 although I noticed that the antenna was not populated. Although I don't know, you could always go in and reprogram it if you want and it has all the analog section you need. Here's just it from the top. So you can see the antenna section to the right. It's not Bluetooth actually, it does it over USB data. That shows up as a serial port and then you use their software to connect to it and you can see on the left is all documentation of the power. You can either have it source the power, it's like a power supply and it can supply 0.8 to 5 volts up to 1 amp or you can use it as a pass-through ammeter where you kind of trace say in your design and then you are measuring the current going through a point of your circuit that way you can use an existing battery or an existing power supply if you want to have more accurate modeling. So this is, they have one demo showing here's how you do it in ammeter mode, this is the pass-through mode. So you connect the PPK to your computer, you run the app on the computer and then it monitors the current on your separate dev board. This is the pass-through mode but there's also again the sourcing mode which is what I'll use, I'll show that on the overhead in a little bit. So to install it you have to download NRF Connect, it's free, I'm logged into the Nordic website but you probably can log in and then inside NRF Connect you install the Power Profiler app, it's all beautiful and it has a lot of blue, I hope you like the color blue. When it comes up you have a little, you know, log area on the bottom right, mid top right is the graph and then there's some numbers in the middle that kind of tell you like the current, if you can make this a little bigger. So you want to say it? Yeah, because I can read it. Okay, so you can have the average current, the max current, the time and what I really like is the micro coolant charge. So again you can use that because it's not that you need the milliamps or the microamps at a certain point in time, you want the total amount of charge coming out of your battery so then you can calculate how long your design will last. Again, not easy to do when your graph is a complex shape. Selected it shows up as a compor and then, you know, this is me, I hooked it up to a mag tag and I had it source 3.7 volts to my device and you can see it, you know, turning on and there's like a spike of current and then you can see it kind of boots up. Next to Wi-Fi gets some data, it does some things and then eventually it shuts down at the bottom. So what's nice about this is the very wide dynamic range. It goes from like one micro amp to about an amp, which is excellent because like that's kind of the range of most wireless devices. Again, you need five amp, 10 amp range. This isn't the device for you, get something else. But between about one micro amp and one amp is plenty for like 90 amp percent of projects. You can also export the data to a massive CSV if you would like so you can do like further analysis if you want to import it into your MATLAB or R or some other analysis software so you can do more data plotting. And then, you know, I put the mag tag into deep sleep mode and, you know, checked it out and yeah, this gives you, it's about 250 micro amps so this matches with my more expensive power meter. That's what it said. So it's accurate, which is good to see. I mean, I'm sure they did a good job with this software. One thing to watch out for, because this confused me when I first used it, is notice that the bottom of the Y graph is not zero. It's 230 micro amps. So it like zooms in. So I was like, oh my God, the power supply is so noisy. It's like, no, it's actually not very noisy. That's only like 20 micro amps of like scatter, you know, like just variation, but that's because it's zero is, you know, it's like it's showing you the differential in the current. It doesn't show you the absolute value, which is, we just find, just be aware that when you look at the graph, so you don't get confused. So I was like, why is this so noisy? It's not. So this is the power profiler kit. It's got this really cool, like, edge lit cut out, which is kind of like a nifty design feature. You've got two USB ports. One is power only. And this is if you want to have like a separate, like, you know, two amp power supply or one amp power supply that's separate than the thing that's supplying USB data power. That's because a lot of times, you know, you can get off, you know, like the power wall adapters will give you like five volts or 5.5 volts, 5.25, where your computer might be dipping. It might be 4.7 or might be noisy. You just want to like get the power from a separate supply. There's an on off. I love the silkscreen is documentation. And then, you know, what I did is I just took these two pins, which are the ground and pull power output. And then I just, I literally just like plugged in a JST cable, like so. And then plugged the feather into it. And that's how I did my power measurements. So I just like, you know, once, and then I unplugged USB so that the USB wasn't, so it's only powered through the JST. This mimics a battery and then you can, of course, do your low power measurements. And what's really nice is it's under like 90 bucks. It's a really good deal. Again, usually these kinds of tools are hundreds and hundreds of dollars. And it's always been really tough for me to people like, how do I know how much power my project is using it? And I'd say, honestly, for the budget you have, connect the battery and just see how long it lasts. And then just divide the number of hours from the battery. And that gives you the approximate power usage because it's just too difficult for wireless projects. Like if you look back at the graph, you can't measure that with a multimeter. It's like too spiky and confusing. But with this tool, you can now do it. So that's why I recommend this. If you don't have a power meter, they're really handy. It's a different tool than a multimeter and a oscilloscope, so I do recommend getting one. You will find it very handy, believe me. I use it all the time, especially in ammeter mode. That's really nice. Like, for example, we have Raspberry Pi projects. I want to see how much current is being used with the hat on top of it. I can now use this as a nice, precise way of measuring the current. We're going to show you where to get it on Digikey and we have a two-minute video. So you can get it on Digikey, of course, because this is an API. Yes. These are where you get new products. Digikey. Yes. And it is part number 1490NRFPPK2ND or the short URL at digikey.com for a short CV99QH. Yes, perfect for any low-power monitoring. This is going to be excellent. Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, Lora, Cellular, this is the tool to use. And here is a quick video of Nordic talking about it. Already have the power profile up installed. You can install it from the app section. When installed, click Open. From here, we'll be able to control and read data from the PPK2. But before we can measure anything, we need to connect the PPK2 to our device under test, or DUT. The PPK2 supports current measurements from 200nm to 1a, with dynamic range switching over the whole range to give you the best resolution possible. This enables support for our short-range NOF-52 and NOF-53 series, as well as our cellular IoT NRF-91 series. For this example, I have chosen an NRF-9160DK as the DUT, running our default Asset Tracker firmware. The PPK2 can act as the power supply or as an ampere meter. Here, I want to use the PPK2 as an ampere meter, letting the DK be powered from its USB. I have connected the PPK2ND to a ground point of the NRF-9160DK, the V-IN of the PPK2 to the bottom pin of the NRF current measurement header, and the top pin to the V-OUT of the PPK2. With these connections, we see that the current flow will go from the USB through the PPK2's measurement circuit and back out to the NRF-9160SIP. Refer to your kit's user guide if you want more details on how to connect your development kits. Now, we'll connect the PPK2's... And that is this week's On MPI. Bye. Bye. On MPI.