 Today, we're going to cut a curly hair shag. When I'm working with curly hair, here's the thing. I, when I work at the parietal ridge, sometimes on straight hair, I'll go a little bit higher on it. But because I'm working with curly hair, that tiny little bit of a corner, if I start to work with that hair and start to elevate it, now I'm going to start to build up extra weight around this, the head shape. So I like to work really on that sole flat area. Another thing that I really found interesting when I was working with Sam Villa last week and Andrew was how they sectioned off the side. They went a little bit further back. What I used to do constantly was to go right behind the ear, and I would kind of use that as my corner. Now I'm going all the way down and pretty much connecting a straight line from back here on the, about the crown of the head down to the edge, where this is a straight line all the way down to the hairline. This way I know when I'm working with hair that's less dense than I am the hair in the back. So I went parietal ridge all the way around, but went low parietal, all the way back down to low crown in the back. And then right here, separate the division line, and then that's where I start. All right, now we're going to cut a shag. So we're going to be working with some concave layering. Thing with concave layering is that you're going to create a scooped line within the haircut. And I'm also, you want to make sure that this elbow is free, right? So you'll know that you're on the wrong side of the head if you come over here. And if my elbow is coming down and going to hit the head and it's getting in the way, then that's not what you're looking for. You want it to have the freedom of your elbow to move along with the head. Tools I'm going to be using, this is my scissor. It's a five inch scissor. I like using a shorter blade. For me, a longer scissor just gets a little bit weaker towards the tip. When you're cutting precision hair, I like to have a shorter blade, a stronger blade, that gets in there and cuts. I have them on the website, but literally there's only a few, like there's not many left. I don't even know how many, but there's not a lot. So if you want this scissor, you want to own it. And I don't know if they're making it again. You should go to our website, freesloneducation.com and buy it. I'm also going to use the YS Park. This is a wide tooth comb. This is a 332 comb. I like that for cutting curly texture. It allows me to get a nice loose tension to the haircut. So what I'm going to do, I'm going to wet the hair down just a little bit. Key thing in haircutting is just to keep consistency with the saturation of the hair. You don't want to cut some of it dry, some of it wet. All right, first parting for section. Pretty much straight down center. I'm going to go slightly to the left because I want to grab a center section here. I'm going to go all the way down to the hairline. So you guys can see there's my section. Now I'm going to lift the hair just like this. I'm going to comb towards my body and I'm going to lift up. And then I've got my length right here. My length is going to be the guide. I'm going to go in and cut short to long. So I'm not taking away any length. I want to keep that length, but I'm cutting nice short layers in the haircut. So you can see that, you see how it's going to start to build up right away. That's the beautiful thing about curly hair and what I love about it. When you cut straight hair like that, it kind of falls and goes a little lifeless. And with curly hair, it just expands and grows. So I'm not afraid of taking this too short at this point because I'm trying to build that shape up. I want to really kind of wrap that shape around the head. Build a ton of volume up on the top and sleek. Make it nice and sleek down the sides. All right, so here's the next section parting vertical straight down, going about a half an inch over. And then I'm going to bring that to the previous. And again, lifting that elbow up. There's my guide. The bottom falls out and I cut across just like that to the edge of my fingers. Now, I want to have a traveling guide here working my way around the head. I don't want to over direct everything to the center because I want that rounded shape in this shag haircut. I want a nice even base around the haircut with the length scooping out. I don't want longer layers to go. So if you don't want the longer layers, you don't want to over direct, right? So traveling guide all the way around the head working my way around. So now I take half of the old and I move that out of the way. So let me turn this so you can see. So I take half of the old, move it out of the way, grab a little bit of the old and bring it into the new section. And that's going to come directly out from where it lives. That'll continue to keep that round shape in the haircut. Just like before, bringing it straight out from the head, scooping it up, finding your guide and cutting across. Some of you guys would want to probably push yourself and just grab all of this. The reason I'm not grabbing all of this is because the more hair you grab, the more over direction that happens. Now on a curlier, looser haircut, that's not a big deal as much as it is in a precision, like fine hair, straight hair haircut. But at the same time, consistency is key when you're working with hair cutting. So just always practicing doing things the right way. So I'm not over directing too far. The more hair you pinch together, the more over direction that happens when you bring it out. So again, bringing it up, got my guide right there, kicking that elbow out. So now you're going to start to see how those layers are just starting to pop and build up. The other cool thing about this is that it's got a nice kind of flat shape to it, but it will bevel in a bit and it'll be nice and skinny through here. And then the other thing I like is you can see the layering pattern because we're following the round of the head. The layering is so even. So it just got a nice feel to it. Doesn't have that kind of heavy weight falling behind the ear. So now we're going to do the same thing. So let me tilt the head down again. My body position is not going to change. And the only difference is, so grab some of that old, grab some of the new, is I'm going to now be pushing the hair instead of pulling it, right? So pushing instead of pulling. So what I'm focusing on any time I'm cutting hair is not only the elevation of how I'm working, but also the over direction. So it's focusing on this and it's focusing on this. So you want to make sure that you're looking at both ways, both things, because inconsistencies happen in both. So if your layering is inconsistent, then your weight's going to be inconsistent when you look at it vertically. If your over direction is inconsistent, then you're going to have inconsistencies when you look at it horizontally. So here is our layering that's happening. Now, because we cut with the round of the head, you can see that even flow of weight. We also had a nice even kind of flow around this way as well vertically. So everything is following the head shape. We could consider this kind of a round haircut. So when you look at the side angle, you could see where it's pretty flat, but at the same time, this part of the head from here down, it curves really quickly into the occipital bone. So right away, this will start to build up. So that's why you don't want to go too long, especially when you're cutting a shag. You don't want to go too long with this part of the haircut, because if you go too long with it right away, then it's going to have a huge buildup of weight. It's just going to expand out. If I was going to now connect the top, I don't want that to be expanded too far out. So make sure don't be afraid to go a little bit short in there. All right, so now we're going to move into the sides. The key point of the sides, we already have our length established. Here's the difference. We've been working with density that goes from this part of the head all the way down to the nape. Now we're working with the density that goes from the same part of the head, but only to the top of the ear. So it's a lot less hair that we're working with. So we're working with less density on the side than we are in the back. When you're working with less density, you have to cut things differently if you want them to look the same. I know that sounds confusing a little bit, but as I'm working around here, everything's nice and even. If I continue to do the same thing on the sides, I would get a very weak feel to this haircut, or even maybe a hole. So what I want to do is I want to continue getting these shorter layers because that's what makes this a shag, but I want to push a little extra weight into the back area. So instead of bringing everything straight out from the head all the way around, I'm now going to bring it up here and cut it short to long in the very front of the head. So we're going to do kind of a... It's not face framing. I wouldn't say that we're framing the face, but we're going to use a technique like face framing that will allow those layers to kind of build around the face. Saturate this, keep the consistency. Okay, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to bring all of this here. So take a diagonal forward parting like that. So I'm going to stand on the opposite side of the chair, and that's where I'm going to cut it. So just like that, bring it up here, and I'm going to actually do a little bit of point cutting to cut this. Now the key thing for me in this part of the cut is to have the shape of this angle or the angle of this parallel pretty much with the forehead. I don't want to elevate it too much. I don't want to layer that too much. I want kind of nice feel to the shape of the head. So if you play the shape of the head, the haircut will actually flow that way. So there's our length, right? So now I'm going to go through. I'm going to take another diagonal forward parting and bring it up in front of me. So this is all textured. So I'm not really that worried about my tension or anything like that, because this is going to have a little more of an organic kind of feel to it. I just want to make sure that that connects in the back there. Continuing to bring that forward, what's happening is that hair is going from further and further away, and then I'll continue and then connect into this back area bringing everything around and forward. So this is all to a stationary guide. And I'll go even past this hairline section, because then I know that this connects. So I go until the hair doesn't reach anymore. See? There's barely anything that even reaches over there. So now I know that I've connected this side and the back. So we've got this nice layering pattern shifts into the back and then flows around and that even kind of feel. We're going to cut the other side. So I'll go to the other end of the chair. Another thing that I didn't really do prior to working with Sam Villa last week, but actually measuring, which is something I never really did, but looking at it in the comb. So knowing where that is, so then I can grab another piece just like this, bring it out here, and then know that this is where I want to cut it. So I actually take that piece. And the face isn't always symmetrical, but it's a good place to start, right? So just making sure that we have that same length is our starting point. There's no reason why we shouldn't be measuring stuff. You measure things to make sure that they're correct all the time. So I measured that point. Now I can take my diagonal forward parting. I've got my guide. I can see it in there. Following the forehead, just like that. And I come through and I cut. So how did I know how short to cut this front piece? So here's where haircutting becomes not necessarily trial and error, but you start to figure out things that you like. So this first little piece here is right at the cheekbone. Now it's curly hair, so I go a little bit past the cheekbone. And knowing when I held this out here, I knew where that bottom piece was going to fall without actually checking it. If you're new to cutting hair, bringing it over like this, bringing it over and looking at this piece and holding it with your hand and seeing where it will fall, that's a good way to do it. But for me, I just wanted to enhance. So when you're enhancing somebody's face shape, you look at the shape of the face, right? And I look at from the corner of the mouth here, and then the shape that happens, it starts to elevate up. So what I'm doing is I'm just enhancing that, building up that shape, especially with curly hair. I like to expand that out, open up the face a little bit so that that kind of this goes with it. So just really finding a place on the face, which cheekbone is a good area to start, or at the jawline, those kind of things, corner of the mouth, look for a point that you're trying to build from. All right, now this is tying back into the back portion where the hairline goes down, where that density becomes heavier. So that's where I want to make sure that this is connecting through. You can see it, well, you can kind of see. See a little bit of those tiny little hairs still sticking out. So I go through, point cut that. You can even wrap all this around, see what fits, nothing else left. So now we know that we've connected it. So you can see it's expanding out, goes really nice with that face shapes, kind of creating a heart shape, gets sleek throughout. The top is kind of where it can either go right or wrong in a shag haircut on curly hair. Because you need to cut the top short, but you also need to realize that even though you're cutting it short, it can't be too short and it can't be too rounded looking. So one thing that I want to do is I want to kind of have a fringe that goes around. So that's where I'm going to start. I'm going to start by cutting that. I'm going to section this right down the center. So from the nose up here, take my section. So now I've got this split into two. I could now continue to just bring this diagonal forward like that and connect it to this part. What I'm going to do is bring everything forward. I want to cut a nice rounded shape in the very front. Then I'm going to go through and layer the back. So sometimes I push weight into a place so that I can cut it later. I want to cut this. I'm going to cut it about at the nose because it's going to pop up. And I know it's going to pop up because it's curly. So I'm going to work on a diagonal back now following the head shape. And I'm going to bring this forward. You can see how much tension happens on that because I use the tighter teeth. I don't want that much tension, especially when I'm cutting a fringe. I want it to be nice and light. So now you see the tension that happens when I comb with the wider teeth. I don't want to hold this too tight in my hand. I also don't want to go below when I take my section, below this parietal ridge area. My finger angle is going to follow the face. I'm going to start with a little bit of an elevated line and I'm going to work right here. So you can see how it kind of pops a little bit. I'm going to take another diagonal back and then when I take that diagonal back parting, I comb it forward and I only take from the parietal ridge over. Now my elevation is going to shift. So now the first bit I cut lower and now I'm just going to shift it up just a little bit. Here's the angle of the head. This is where 90 is. So I want to come about zero. So this is below zero. It's going to be super heavy. When you have curly hair, you don't want it super heavy but you don't want to layer it too much either. So straight out from the head and then I've got my zero degree point right there. I bring that out. I keep it at zero. I'm going to point cut my line. Just like that and let it flow. Diagonal back parting, comb it forward, take out the parietal. Now what is this doing for me as I'm working my way back? The biggest thing that it's doing is as I work my way back, this is getting longer and longer. I am going to go in and layer it like I talked about but don't mind pushing that extra weight into the back. So bringing it forward, nice little elevation and that's going to be my guideline. Now it's starting to connect through. Last bit, I'm going to pull all this forward, take out the parietal and all of this is coming now from the back so this would be super heavy. We're going to layer into it but I wanted to have that nice little angle there. We're going to do the same thing on the opposite side. Working diagonal back and then grabbing from parietal over and I point cut through. I'm point cutting to keep a nice soft line in there. I don't want anything harsh. See the heavy fringe happening and now I want to go through and I'm just going to, I'm going to change it up a little bit. I'm going to do this back portion dry. I've got some longer pieces back here. I want to cut into this. I'm going to do a little tease cutting. So we're going to dry this first and then we'll go through and finish the cut. A couple of things I want to show you guys. I'm going to use a couple different brand new tools here. So we've got Palm Mitchell. This is the Lavender Mint Curl Refresh Foam. Revives and enhances texture. So I'm digging that. So we'll see what this is like. Honestly guys just took these out of the box today but I'm excited about it and the fact that I was going to cut a curly shag anyways. This is probably going to put me to sleep because it's Lavender. Now here's a couple key things with Curly is to make sure that you get full saturation of the product. I like to add in some kind of cream into curly hair as well. Something with like a light hold, light control. So this product's also, it's Taming Cream. So I'm going to put that cream in there as well and that'll just give me a little extra kind of hold to the hair. When you do curly hair, when you work with curly hair, I think a lot of people will just throw products especially like our guests at home. They'll take the product, they'll throw it in their hair, they'll scrunch it in like this and then they just kind of go, right? And then they wonder why some of their hair gets frizzy. The reason your hair gets frizzy is because not all the hair has product on it. So I'm going to brush it through. And then when you brush it through, that will help saturate the product all over the hair. The second tip, once you fully saturate the hair with the product, then what I like to do is I like to take a damp towel. So this towel is kind of damp but I'll make it a little more damp. And when you have a damp towel, it doesn't create as much frizz. So I'll take the towel and instead of my hands, I'll use the towel and scrunch that into the hair and that'll reactivate the curl a little bit. So just kind of working my way through there. The more you put like your hands or dry things throughout the hair, the frizzier it's going to get. We'll go through and do that. So you can see how the curl just starts to kind of expand back up. Now we're going to diffuse. Paul Mitchell Pro Tools Express Ion Turbolite. We're going to use this. I'm going to put it on and then I'm going to do low airflow, high heat. Biggest challenge with people and working with curly hair is they get impatient. You've got to be patient, especially with curly hair. It's just to go through and lift the hair. That's what these fingers are for. Lift it in. Don't grab it with your hand. Don't move the hair around a lot. That gets it more and more frizzy. You want to let it dry and you want the hair to get fully dry. If it stays kind of, if moisture stays in the hair, what happens is that as soon as you go out in the humidity or anything like that, the heat and it starts to dry on its own, it starts to expand and kind of build out. So if you actually want to create a hairstyle that's going to last you all day on curly hair, you need to get through and dry the whole thing all the way through. This is my least favorite part in the slime when I'm diffusing because then I have to like, it's not that loud and I'm not doing anything. So like people want to have a conversation and I like working. I like to just keep going. So this fringe area, I'm just taking the fingers of the diffuser and lifting up. This might be where you would go to low heat because I'm keeping it right on the head and then that way you're not burning them. Today she doesn't have any feelings so I'm going straight high heat, but I would go low heat on a client. So this product is cool, moisture milk. It's called, I don't know if it's cool, but it seems cool to me. I'll do a little bit of that. I'll run that in my hands. This is for frizz control. So I always want to put something in my hands that kind of helps with frizz. So now the only thing I want to do to this is take out this weight in the back, which we created. So I don't want to take too much of it because this is why I really wanted to see it. So you can see how this is heavier right here. This is where we brought everything forward, cut the fringe, so that builds this stack and it builds kind of a short to long feeling. So now what I want to do is I just want to cut into this. I'm just going to hold the hair up just like this and I'm going to tease cut into it. It's a half close of the scissor. So I'm half closing in, cutting through. So it's like this, half close in, bring it out. So here, half close in, bring it out, half close in and I just pinch the hair in my hand and I go in half close just like that. So I'll go through here and just work the round of the head in that crown area and take some of these longer hairs and just cut into them. All I'm doing is expanding this shape in the crown. So that's what I want to do. I want to build this up, grabbing some of these longer pieces. There you can see like that is, first off, I'm so psyched on this haircut. I hope you guys like it as much as I do. Super fun. It's got a ton of texture in it. Look at that shape. So I love it. The expansion of that, the build up here, like you wouldn't have to do it this expanded if you didn't want to. You could do it a little sleeker. The way that you would do that is take less fringe. So just not bringing it as far forward. For me, I love that kind of heaviness to it. The flow of the layers off of the face, that all came from pulling it to the front and cutting it right here. And then that pushes that weight back. Then this kind of even feel all the way around. That was our concave layering that we did all the way throughout. So totally, I love the cut. I love the shape. Hope you guys like it. If you guys, again, have any questions, make sure you post them. Otherwise, I will see you guys on the next video. Thanks so much for watching.