 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTech Tools, quality tools, essential support. What's up guys? Today's we are here at the grocery store. We've got a beer case here that's running a little bit warm. Just put my probe in here and it's been setting for a while and we're at a whopping 61.8 degrees. Got looking up here at our air band and I noticed we've got one section here that's completely missing, which is going to allow all the air to come through this section, but you can see the dirty build up here from the moisture pretty much on both sets of cases here. And so that's going to slow down airflow, but it doesn't feel like it's coming out cold. I can hear the fans running. I'm going to go back to the rack and let's see what's going on back there. This back here is not really the rack that I was thinking of because there's two different racks here and this one here is kind of the special one. It's been left out of the family tree I guess. So it looks like this is the beer cases. It goes on the controller, which then goes back to the rack downstairs. It's controlled down there. These have been converted to 407F recently. It just feels like it's not running very cold. We're not coming back cold at all. That is hot. That is hot. Holy crap. That might actually be... That's your liquid line right here and that is hot earth cat. And guess what? That is oil floating around there so we are empty. We've got a massive leak. We've got to figure out where this condenser is at. I think this one here is on the roof. It's going to come up, come across. We've got to go down here and get this thing disarmed. Otherwise it's going to set it off. But yeah, as far as I know it's still on the alarm. That's the other rack and Tyler house there. So I thought maybe it was wanting to be on this one but it's not. The one we're going to be working on is way up there. That's that rough access area that we need to get up on. This has a newer condenser on it. As you can see we've got multiple different circuits which are actually labeled which is kind of nice. The other one was a death trap. It had blades out of the top there that about fling off there and take out your head. Let's see if we can find this leak. I've seen a bunch of oil downstairs but I don't know if that's old oil or not. But I didn't pick up anything yet. Down there and see what which system this is. We should be able to feel it. It's going to be extremely hot. More so than usual. I mean this is going to be the liquid going back. That one's kind of warm. Whatever the liquid is going back it's going to be the one that's going to be really hot. It shouldn't be. What's interesting is the lines come up right here. So if we go down to here that should be going out right there. Discharge gas comes off here goes down over to this whole back valve and stuff. Goes up and over. I can't tell if that's old or what. This looks like a mess. See the shiny. All on it over here. Now you can't do this with an H10 because you can't reach it with an H10. There we go. Now that it's been off for a little bit the pressure is starting to build up. So yeah we got it right here. Either that one or the one beside that one there I think. Obviously it's leaked bad enough. You can see that pipe right here it wiggles. That's what's happened is whoever did it didn't tighten the clamp up and it vibrated into it. Probably guarantee it. Not going to be easy because we got all these other pipes right at once. Nothing appears to be bubbling but it could be blowing it right off. It's kind of hard to get up here too but you can see that one there they milled it when they were putting it in place. So yeah put it on the put the clamp on left you got it in place. That one right there you can see right there is where it's leaking at. Right there completely rubbed into it. So we'll go ahead and do a skim coat over top of that. Then we'll get that clamp put on the way it should have been put on to begin with. Obviously these were never tightened up. That's got a lock nut on it. It's not going to loosen up like that. It's blown it out. It'll just blow it right off. That's where your leak's at. Got to put a gauge on to see where our pressure's at. We'll try isolating it. So we've got about 80, 90, 98 pounds of pressure on the suction. I'm going to try to valve off the discharge line to see if we can isolate that as best as possible. I think we might be able to do it down here and get that isolated. I'm going to make the repair if that's the case and I wouldn't have to pull it back because we're still in a positive. That's why it didn't shut off on low pressure switches. It's still running in a couple pounds of pressure even though it's pretty low. It is 407F. It's pretty much 404 pressures. All right, so we've got the F-A-Con. We've got the tool there. We're doing as we're pulling off, like I said, the drop line here coming back into the machine. We've opened up this side which is going to push it into the receiver and potentially the liquid line. Not overly concerned about that. We're able to watch here on the suction side as that goes down. We'll know that we're safe. You can see it's already going down. Since we've got it valveed, since we have it front seated all the way forward, we're actually not measuring on this side. We're measuring on the compressor side. That's the thing you've got to remember if you're new to the biz, the way these valves are set up is so that you're actually pulling on the compressors. You can literally isolate the discharge line from the compressor and the suction line from the compressor and pull on the actual compressor itself. That way, if you disconnect it, you can replace the compressor, pull it back on just the compressor, not the whole system, and do your thing. So we're able to save the refrigerant we got. We're able to transfer it over into that receiver, which most of it was vapor, and we're doing it. Got some heat coming out the front. We're doing a three-eighths line, so we're hauling the chickens through the meat market very quickly. She is boiling out really nice and strong, so we'll be great to go here in just a second. Now, I will note that this thing was full. This probably would not work, but like I said, this thing's lost quite a bit of refrigerant, so we've got plenty of room in that receiver for this. This is the only system that's on that compressor. It's just that beer, two beer cases that you've seen there. And also for the naysayers, just so you know, if we're leaking on the discharge side, which is the high-pressure side, it may get low enough, even if that low-pressure switch didn't shut it off, which I haven't tested it to see how it's doing. But even if that went into a negative, you're not pulling any type of air into the system when you're on the high-pressure side, unless that gets into a negative as well, which it's never going to do because it's always going to be higher than what's going into it. Even though the other side was negative, it would never have been able to pull anything in. So that's why we're going to get away with not having to change the dryer and why all I got to do is just pull a vacuum on the condenser side here and it will go pretty much from the compressor through the compressor to the condenser and back to this area right here. And like I said, we're isolated from the receiver. That dryer is just replaced to the end of 20, so it's not horribly old. I think that's about one of these things that were converted. Supposedly if we ran such a bad refrigerant, it's actually not had that many problems. So we pulled her down just a touch of a negative by accident. I was not paying perfectly good attention like I should have been. Opened up my suction valve, let some of the refrigerant in, it brought it back up into a positive. So we got a one pound of pressure on it, which is not a big deal. We're going to go ahead and get up there and see if we can get this thing fixed. We're just going to do a skim coat over the one side section. I'm not worried about it. I've not had one of those break yet. I've heard they do, but I've never had it happen. So we're going to get up there and get that thing fixed real quick. What we're going to do is use our brush wheel here, multiple different heads. We're going to go ahead and use my mini Rosebud, which there's my brush wheel. Get those at Menard's Lowe's, wherever. I can always put a link, some on Amazon if you want to support Channel, which there's always links to all my tools and stuff down here. I can post it in Amazon link to these, this one and that little one right there. Everybody's been asking about it, but you really need the Uniwell Torch handle. I forgot my main tool bag at home, which is why I keep my back up here. This was actually what I bought and I never use it because stupid things heavier. And that's even the smaller MC. So ready to go here. It's kind of hard to reach it and hold the camera. I don't step my GoPro with me. It's down in the truck and I don't feel like going and getting it. Once I start recording, I just want to finish it all on whatever it is I chose to record it with. You can see right there where it's at. There you go. See that spot right? That's where it rubs through at. We have nothing at the top, nothing there on the side, but that's that's where it's at. And I really don't want to cut that and put a coupling in just about one little spot right there. You can see the vibration in the camera maybe. I don't know. So that's what you're fighting up against when you don't get your clamps tight. We've got to tighten up some of these too. That's going to be happening there. This is ridiculous. So yeah, we completely built that bridge back up. We'll go ahead and get the new clamp on there. I'm going to tighten all these up. Something as simple as clamps. That's one of the things where they let the new guy do it, but nobody rechecked it. What do you do? So we're going to pull quick back on this thing. We're not going for 500 microns. If you're going to give me some about that, you obviously don't work on the things that are this old. As soon as that's done, we'll go ahead and release the pressure. Double check it with soap. Every visually wise looks good. You can see it's already pulling the compressor down. That's actually going through the condenser and then back to the uh, so basically we're pulling through the condenser and back to the compressor so we can actually verify there. Like I said, it's not pulling micro-engage or stuff like that. That's the four CFM pump. Yeah, it's quarter inch here, but it's also a small restriction at that small point there. It's got this radar card fold. All right, somebody had already stripped the kiss out of that right there, so had to get on it with the crappy pliers because somebody don't know what one of these wrenches is. It's got up to 90 pounds of pressure. That's after pulling the vacuum on it, so we just sprayed it down and I do not have any bubbles on it at all. Like I said, I've got a new clamp for that right here, so we'll get that on there. That plastic will help isolate it from the metal there. Got that rag here to help protect me from that hot gas line there. So we've got the new clamps on there. It feels like it's slipping. All right, so grab the crescent wrench. They're all tight now. Nothing moves. They're all good. You can see that we've got a lot of oil coming back. When these things go low and they cycle off in low pressure, they tend to pump the oil right out of the compressor. They're not going to get very good oil returns. Now we're getting a bunch of it coming back. When they're hooked onto the high side there, we're only running about 175. That's bouncing back and forth. We're not flooding out or you can see a bunch of oil. There's a bunch of coal in it, stuff like that. We are finally starting to get better at the slight glass here. It just started to do what we see there a little bit ago. You can feel the liquid line there. It's finally coming back cold. Eventually it's going to go warm. So we will be hot, it will be cold, and eventually it will be warm like it should be. One of the other things I just got thinking about it, the head pressure control there. You've got your open on differential and you have your open on rise. So that would have kept that suction pressure high enough that that would have probably never kicked out on low pressure cut out. It did shut off once or twice, but it wasn't rapid cycling. It's been a while, but we're getting there just about there soon. All right, so we went ahead and added a little bit more refrigerant, ended up getting it full. What I think happened was is we had three fans on that condenser and they were cycling on and off and it was controlled by discharge temperature or I should say it was the drop leg temperature. The liquid coming out of the condenser coil could not really get in there to override that. That was a newer board they've added and I haven't been added to that one yet for password to be able to do it. And even then when I searched around in there, it didn't show me half the things I would normally see to make the fans run. But we did finally get a solid sight glass. I called one of the guys that had done the conversion and they said it did take a while, but eventually it got it. You got to remember two. Like I said, I've got a head master on there, so it's going to take a little bit more refrigerant to flood that coil. So we do got that completely charged correctly and it's working as it should. I went back to the controller, raised the temperature back to 36 degrees. I had to move it down to like 30 degrees just to keep it running long enough so I could get it charged the way I needed and everything's working fine. I said some things about the honeycomb missing and so we're going to see if we can find that, but otherwise everything's working good and we're all set to go. Hope you guys enjoyed the video. If you did, make sure you give it a thumb and until next time, we'll catch you guys on the next one later.