 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, go! Alright guys, so hope you guys have been well. Today what we're going to focus on is a graduation. And I know we've been doing graduation a lot, but here's the deal. I wanted to bring in and do kind of a V shape in the back to shift the weight a little bit differently. So the over-direction is going to be different. The way we go about the haircut's going to be a little bit different. So I think you guys are going to like that part of it. And also this may be my new signature haircut because of the M shape that I've now seen come through. So guys, no wasting time. Let's get started with our step-by-step. Here we go. Alright, so we're going to start off by sectioning a triangle section in the top of the head. So starting at the recession point and drawing a V shape to a point in the center crown in the back. Then we draw a diagonal forward line down to behind the ear and then a diagonal back line to the occipital bone. Now we're going to start our cut working diagonal back. So we're really creating that line, creating that heavier weight to the very center back of the head which is going to create that V shape. So we start off by cutting everything flat down on the skin that's going to create the strongest line possible and then we start elevating from that point on. So we're continuing consistently drawing those diagonal back partings but then elevating slightly as we work up the head to create a nice graduation in the haircut. So you see I'm staying consistent, staying diagonal back, following parallel with my fingers to the parting and just working my way up the head. What this is going to do is grow that extra length down towards the bottom of my finger which will create that V shape in the end. So it's really finger angle plays a huge role in how you want that shape to appear in the back of the head. So when you see different haircuts that have movement and different shapes in the back has a lot to do with finger angle and then your elevation has everything to do with how high that shape is going to build up and how high that graduation is going to go up. So again starting really strong lines in the back flat against the skin that draws a really strong guideline and then bringing the rest of the hair down to that point to cut the hair at the guide. So we're working palm to palm. It's the most comfortable way to cut the back of the head here and just keeping that elevation nice and low building up weight throughout the back of the head shape. So you can see how much over direction happens towards the center back of the head. That over direction really pushes that extra weight into the center which you can see happening right now. Now we comb down our next panel. Our guide is going to come from the back. Our partings are exactly the same. So working diagonal back. Over direction is still the same. The only thing that's changing now is our elevation is going to be higher than it was on the bottom section because the curve of the head is starting to move away from us which I talk about in every single cut that we do. So you really got to pay attention to how the head shape is shifting. So as we're working up the head shape my elevation gets higher so that the hair stays nice and light throughout the shape. If I were to keep the elevation at the same point that I did at the bottom section it would be really really heavy by the time I got to the top of this section. So it's going through there. Over direction is the same. Pushing that weight to the center, creating the shape. Same thing on the right side. So just working diagonal back. One thing that I'm definitely working with is my 339 comb. This is YS Park comb. And I'm going through, I'm using the tighter teeth to get nice tight tension on the haircut. Now I'm not squeezing it too tight. I'm not trying to shift the hair way far from where it lives but I am working with the fine teeth to keep the hair exactly where I want it as I'm combing through the sections. So still working that over direction. Still working that finger angle to create that heaviness in the back and taking a small section at a time. Now the goal with this is you'll see me take my diagonal back parting and then as I comb I'm only taking a little bit of the old hair just enough to see that guide through and I'm not taking too much new hair so I can't see my guide. So that is how we cut the back section. Now I'm going to go through and blow it dry. This is something that I'm definitely doing in most haircuts at this point because I like watching the shape kind of unfold throughout the haircut and I want to see that that back is exactly the way that I'm trying to cut it before I move on to the rest of the haircut. There's no point in cutting the entire cut wet and then finding out that you don't really love the back shape of the haircut. So going through using the Vibra straight iron this is the 413 brush from Paul Mitchell and just to give me a little bit more air in the haircut and just going through beveling the edge of the hair it's a very key thing when you're ironing hair for cutting is to just make sure that you're following the head shape with the iron to create that nice beveled feel to fit the head shape because that's the whole point of ironing it out and smoothing out the hair is to make sure that you can see all the lines that you've created and how the weight is shifting in the haircut. Now I'm going to go through with some dry detailing this I'm using my DB20 scissor from Mizetani I like this scissor because it has a really sharp blade and the blade is skinny so it has a lot of power but I can get nice and close to each section that I'm working with so I'm detailing that outer perimeter I really wanted to see the outer perimeter coming to life right away kind of an instant gratification thing so I could have waited until the end but I just like seeing that shape unfold so now we're going to over direct everything from the side panel back to a stationary guide you're going to notice that my the way that I'm holding the scissor is a little bit different this is again we talked about this in the past I want to keep my wrist as comfortable as possible so just going through there shifting my finger in the other direction of the hole in the scissor allows me to keep my wrist comfortable if you use swivel scissors then you can kind of automatically do this but when you use standard scissors it's good to just shift your finger it takes a little bit of practice but it's definitely worth the practice because it'll save your wrist in the end so everything came back to that stationary guide what that's going to do is push the weight forward kind of hugging the jawline so that's the angle that we're creating there and we're going to do the exact same thing on the opposite side so working diagonal forward sections going through and cutting one thing that I want to point out is you can see the diagram and you guys have been asking for a downloaded version of the diagrams to use later on or to print out yourself so I will have a link in the description you'll see a Dropbox link you can click that link download the head sheet and keep it with you to study and just take that haircut with you that way so going through same thing over directing back stationary guide and just this is going to build up a little extra weight because you can see that my elevation is not high but I don't mind the extra weight and we can always go through with some dry cutting and lighten up the sides but the density changes on the side of the head is a lot lighter than in the back because there's just more hair in the back of the head so I don't mind that a little less elevation in the sides to go through the haircut because I can always again take it out during the dry cut portion so I'm going to part the hair exactly where she's going to wear it so this would definitely change within each guest that you're doing and then based on that part I'm going to work across the crown of the head connecting the bottom point and a lot of people ask where I get my guide from my guide is always coming from the previous section that's the previously cut hair that I had before so I'm just blending in the top to the bottom a lot of times in hair cutting the top is where you can see the heaviest points or where the layers are falling because you're cutting literally on the top of the head so the angles are a lot different so as I'm going through a lot of times I like to just blend the top to keep it nice and soft so now as I work towards the front my finger angle is going to shift a little bit with the angle of the where the parietal ridge sits on the head you can see it in a lot of the diagrams so it's a little more angled not straight up in the air it's a little off to the right so as I'm going through I'm building up a little extra weight towards the part which is going to be nice for the end result of the haircut to give a little bit of extra weight up there so slight over direction back you can see that weight pushed forward and now we're going to do the exact same thing in the back portion on the left hand side the only difference on the left hand side is that we're going to over direct everything all the way back again less density on the left side it's our part side so because we're on the part side I can over direct everything straight back and build up a little extra weight on the left so we'll go through blow dry flat wrap style we've already blown dry the back and ironed it so we're already working quicker flat wrap a little bit of lift, a little bit of leafing and then my 339 comb and my vibrostrate iron just to iron it out and that's pretty much it so we're working the head shape we're going to get into the dry cutting which is really where this shape comes to life so after I go through with the 339 comb I go through with the 413 brush this just allows me again a little bit of air to the haircut see the shape that we did and I always talk about the fact that just because you elevate the hair and over direct it doesn't mean that the outer perimeter looks great so we over direct it, push the weight where we want it and then I go in and create the outer perimeter that I'm looking for so you start the angle with the over direction but then you go in and detail it dry so I went through, created that V shape now I'm going to go through point cut a lot adding some air and light feel the sides of the hair this is where I talked about we did over direct it, it's a little bit heavier now I'm taking that weight out still using the DB20 scissor this is a 5.7 inch scissor that we have on freesaloneducation.com I love this scissor for pretty much everything so it's got a nano powder metal which is a softer metal it grips the hair really well it's a very luxury feeling scissor, it also has a naked ball bearing a screw so it actually has ball bearings in the screw which allows for a smoother open and close to the scissor, so it's a pretty cool tool so you can see how smooth the back is looking just going around the whole perimeter of the head and adding light pieces to the layers using point cutting not changing the line, you can see the line stays strong just going through and adding some light feel to it with the point cutting technique very vertical to the hair so that I don't create extra lines now I wanted to add a little bit of a fringe but I wanted it to be really broken and really long so I just take out a little triangle section in the very front and go in with deep point cutting just to soften right around the face little scissor over comb detail this is just lifting it up I wanted to soften the edge of that graduation right there so this is a technique that I used to do that and just I love detailing those lines this is something that when you want to create really strong lines in a haircut you're going to work those lines for quite a while but it's totally worth it because this is something that no matter what your guests will walk around and have these lines put in, if you put in the work if you just try to cut it once and let it sit there then they're not going to be able to recreate it those lines aren't going to be strong enough so just going in, going over the lines over and over will make your haircuts a lot better our brocato firm hold hairspray just holding that shape in place now I'm going to go through with the db20 scissor and just finish out detailing the lines I'm using the point of the scissor the thing I love about the db20 scissor is how sharp the point is so as I'm going through hitting it with a little bit of point cutting around the edges I can really detail those lines really well so finishing it up this is the end result, hope you guys like it alright, like always, if you like this video you like this haircut hit the like button, hit the share button comment below, let me know what you think and what you want to see next on upcoming videos, thank you guys so much for watching and the support check out freesaloneducation.com and we'll see you guys on the next video thanks