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homemade 80 Gal. gas powered air compressor

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Published on Jun 4, 2011

My garage only has 110 power in it and re-wiring it for 220 was not an option. So i built this air compressor. It is a very good+impressive air compressor and I wouldn`t be selling it if I didn`t have an urgent need for money. I used a 16 HP pull start DuraMax 4 Stroke OHV engine. Full EPA and CARB Approval. Start System: Recoil Start. Ignition System: Transistorized Magneto. Air Cleaner: Dual, Semi-dry, Oil BathSpecifications: Max Output: 16.0 HP / 3600 RPM. Max Torque: 28.5 Nm / 21.0 ft/lb. Displacement: 419ml, Bore: 90, Stroke: 66. I also welded a moped muffler to the stock one wich cuts down noise from the exhaust to almost nothing. Now all you hear is the mechanical noise of the check valve, pump, and engine wich is nothing compaired to the exhaust noise it did have. This air compressor has spent it`s life in the garage. I usaly vent the exhaust out a winow via flexible exhaust tubing. I used an Eaton MODEL# APP3Y0521T 5 HP, 3 Cylinder, 2-Stage, air compressor pump with 22 CFM Displacement, 16 CFM @ 175 PSI, and 18 CFM @ 100 PSI pump. has an SCFM @ 175 of 16. This unit is covered for 5-years parts and labor factory waranty. it is a 3-Cylinder, or Y, design. Each cylinder is individually cooled by the air or fan built into the flywheel. This is one of the coolest running pumps you will find because each cylinder gets air individually into the flywheel fan. This pump DOES NOT have reed valves! It has a concentric ring valve design. if you want to clean your valves, intake, or exhaust out, you can take the valves out of the cylinder head by unscrewing the valve retainer and just pull the valve right of the head to inspect it. This pump is all cast iron. It has solid cast iron cylinder, cylinder heads, crankcase, flywheel, crank, and forged steel connecting rods -- not aluminum! These rods also have a replaceable bearing on the crank journal and on the wrist pin journal. This pump has large ball bearing on the crank ends on each end of the crankshaft. This ensures good crank stability and long compressor bearing life. Each cylinder is all cast iron with no sleeves or aluminum. All cast iron prevents cylinder distortion and egg-shaped cylinders when pump gets hot. This pump has a 2-belt drive.Twin belt ensures better belt gripage and longer belt life. This pump has head unloaders. This is very nice for continuous run applications such as gasoline driven or electric driven high duty cycle applications. Head unloaders are an air cylinder in each head. When air is applied to them, they open or push the intake valves open allowing the pump to go into a free wheel mode. The cylinders are still moving in a free wheel mode, but it cannot compress the air because the intake valve is held open. This pulls cool air into the cylinder. The cool air absorbs the heat in the pump and blows it back out the intake valve. This is nice when you are sandblasting, etc., under heavy duty cycles. The pilot valve and throttle kick down cable I put on this tank kicks in at 145 and out at 175 psi. PILOT VALVE ALSO HAS MANUAL OVERIDE SWITCH ON IT. When the tank psi hits 175 the pilot valve kicks down the idle and opens the head unloaders in the pump. Also i built a platform for it to roll around the shop that has locking casters.

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