 Hey, what's up, folks? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noah Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit and join me every week. This is my brother Pedro. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro. I have creative tech here at Adafruit. And every week, we're here to share 3D printing projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. That is right. This is a show we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello, everybody. Welcome to the show. We're hanging out in the Adafruit live broadcast chat channel on Adafruit's Discord server. If you'd like to say hello, questions, memes, banter, general chats, we're hanging out there. The invite code to that is Adafruit.gg slash Discord. There's my banner right up there. We'll take a moment to welcome everybody to the show. We got lots of fun stuff. We got some useful projects this week, but a mix of fun projects. Lots of community makes. Got a time lapse. Some shop talk, all that, and more on 3D Hangouts. Ooh. Ooh. This is episode 419. It is October 25th, 2023. Very close to Halloween. I'm wearing my Halloween attire. Pedro, you are also kind of Halloweeny. I'm an alien. You're an alien. Go with it. Both Disney-themed, as usual. All right. Good morning to Duester, Vince, Squid.jpg, Rosyn, Johnny. Hello, hello. Welcome to the show. Thank you for joining us. Good morning. Let's go ahead and jump into the morning housekeeping with Adafruit freebies. This week it's updated. Go to Adafruit.com for all the details. These lovely goodies get added to your cart automatically. First up, we have orders that are $99 or more. You'll get a free PCB coaster with a gold Adafruit logo. If your order is $149 or more, look at that. It's right there. If your order is $149 or more, I accidentally sent you one. Yeah, you know how when we put orders in, they're not supposed to send us the free stuff. I want one. I haven't got one yet. Very nice. I think it's thicker than the other ones. Really? It's like 2 millimeters or 3 millimeters. I think I'll pick one up then. Back to the... Very nice. $149. Just buy one. Right, just buy one. Fidget says, very good. Frame it and put it on your wall. There it is. You get everyone if you get $100. Yeah, wall supplies last, of course. If your order is $149 or more, you'll get that PCB coaster plus an Adafruit KB2040. That's that lovely RB2040 dev board with all the fancy features. If your order is $199 or more, you'll get free ground shipping from UPS and continental US only, the KB2040 and the PCB coaster. And if your order is a whopping $299 or more, you'll get all that plus a Circuit Playground Express. Remember, all these get automatically added to your order. So no need to add any special coupons. Or you could use our coupon and get 10% off your order. This week, it's USBC. And you'll find out why once we jump into this week's project. Let's see, we used to do a little bit on signing up to the Adafruit daily for all the newsletters. Put the link into that. And then the Adafruit jobs. I think there's just one listing right now for shipping. And that's gonna be local in New York. So I just posted the links to that. Quick. I think we can jump into this week's project. All right. Quick show. Yeah, unless the prototypes take up out of the time, which maybe they will. Maybe, maybe. So this week, we wanted to make a 3D project case for our lovely new handy dev. It's not a dev board, it's a breakout. This is the HUSB 238 Power Delivery Breakout. This is a handy little device that lets you take your device's wall warts like this and turns it into a USB-C device. So we created a little 3D printed case. It's a little snap fit case. The PCB gets secured with these machine screws. And then you have a top that snap fits. It has little additive features here. We got little labels. So USB, so you know it's over here. And this is very handy, a plus and a minus to let you know where the voltage and ground is. You also got access to the screw block terminals there. But this is a really nice PCB. It's very, very small, but hey, USB-C, Power Delivery USB-C can deliver up to 100 watts on certain devices, 20 volts and three amps on this guy. It's got a special feature that it has I squared C control. So you can programmatically make this output, whatever voltage you want for those devices that may have some weird voltage requirements. There are some devices that want 16 volts or 17 volts. And you have the option to either control that voltage through I squared C with a microcontroller or just use these jumpers to make it a fixed voltage here in this particular one. This is a wall adapter for a Atria key step, USB controller slash synthesizer. And here on the wall where you can see that it wants, it's putting out 12 volts at one amp. And here's another important part. It has a center positive right there. So each one of these are gonna be different. So if you don't know, you'll want to, double check with a multimeter to make sure that this is gonna be correct. So we cut the cable and wired it up into the screwblock terminal. So now we can connect USB C cable here and then to power the device, we can use a USB PD. That's the power delivery. They're basically those high voltage USB C power supplies. But this allows you to kind of use a USB C cable so you can get rid of this wall wart. And we think it'll be useful if you actually lose your wall adapter, you want to get rid of it and stick with the USB PD power supply. That's a good thing for that. So we have the case together. We put that together. Let me showcase the learn guide. So if you head on over to the learn guide, let me cue up that. Here is the learn guide. We got a nice little video that kind of talks about that. In this, this is actually showcasing how you can control the voltage over I squared C using a depth board. In this case, we got the Metro M7. It's got a stem up port and then we're just using the pins here with some jumper cables to control it. So in this demo code, it's like switching every second or two a different voltage, which is kind of interesting. But that just showcases that you can programmically change it, which is kind of neat. So we have a prerequisite guide that you'll want to check that out if you want more information on the breakout. It has pinouts page and then circuit Python and Arduino libraries so that you can communicate with it using a breakout. But that's all the information is here. We have a couple of parts here. If you want to pick up a multimeter, if you don't have one or a USB-C to USB-C cable, we have those in the shop. You will need two screws to secure the PCB just so that it's very secure. You want to use these metal screws. And then of course you can pick up a USB PD power supply from your favorite online realtor. Here's one that we have. It's from a good brand, Anker is a pretty good brand. And this one is, I think, yeah, up to 100 Watts. And these are mainly for like charging big devices like a laptop, an iPad, all the things here, you know, all of the gadgets that want like fast USB charging. This is the power supply you want to get. We don't carry one in the Adafruit store, maybe we will. But this is kind of nice when it has both USB type A and two USB-C ports. And it has a little flippy prong. That's nice for traveling. So that's one. Pedro, do you have a different one, I believe? I didn't bring mine out. Yeah, okay. I think it's like the 30 watt little ones. And then the laptop ones. Yeah, they're great to have. So definitely pick one up. We have STLs, step file and a Fusion 360 file. If you want a model of the breakout, you can get that as well. We have that on our CAD parts GitHub repo. It's a nice little breakout board, two mounting holes. It's really nice to mount because you got mounting holes. And yeah, that's pretty much it. It's pretty small. The case is pretty small. I thought to maybe add mounting tabs to the sides if you want to secure it down to a surface. Because, you know, USB-C cables can be kind of thick and they can kind of, you know, keep the case from being flush on the surface or something. So you can modify the case if you want, something more. But I figured it would just be nice to make it a square and have those holes for the wires and all that. So pretty simple. Pretty simple assembly. You just secure it down and snap at the case. The labels are really nice. I'm so glad I put labels. Because it's pretty handy to know where the USB port is and, of course, the voltage and ground. For usage, here we are showcasing how we went about converting our, you know, wall adapter into a USB-C wall adapter. So here's just some handy tips on making sure that your power supply is telling you what the proper requirements for your device, whatever it may be. So we're showcasing cutting the wires, stripping them with wire strippers. For this particular demo, we want to fix the voltage. So that's why we're using the solder jumper. You do want to cut the five volt trace first and then solder your desired voltage. Here we're doing 12 volts because the wall adapter says so. And then here we have a little gif of showing how to use a multimeter using continuity mode to test what is ground and what is voltage. Once you figure that out, you can use the screw block terminals to secure those wires. A quick note, a lot of the times you'll see, oh, let me full screen that. A lot of times you'll see this white little dashes on the cable that means normally, it means it's a voltage wire. So that's a good tip there. If you don't know, then you know. And then the ground is of course the other cable. But there are markings on the back of the PCB and that's why I thought it was important to kind of put that here too. So you know always what's the right voltage and what's the ground. So that's just a little tip there. But back to the learn guide. Oh boy, here I go. Playing charades. And that's pretty much it, you know? You use a USB PD power supply and then a USB-C cable and now your device should power on if you have everything correct. So this is a pretty neat keyboard. It's called the KeyStep Pro. It has some nifty features like being able to control EuroRack modules using CV control or control voltage. Just pretty cool. Yeah, Pedro, you had a story that you want to share. Yeah, so I just used it as a backup too. I think we used to stock these fans for the Femix tractor. I think we still do. Oh yeah, so it works perfect for that. Instead of having this big old wall work that is taking up two spaces on my outlet was super easy to convert it to that. I just chopped off the, or actually sell the barrel jacks in the store as well. So I just twisted it up and installed it into the terminal. And because of the extension cord has USB cables right on there, I could just use that. So it definitely frees up a lot of space, makes everything nice and tidy for having a nice little, instead of having a wall work that's taken up two spaces and just having this tiny little guy power everything. I can't seem to find the fan. Maybe we just- I started looking too. Yeah, I don't, maybe we didn't get it here. But yeah, this is a big old jumbo. I think it was just PC fan maybe was the name of it. Yeah, I'm searching for PC. All fans, including discontinued ones, and I'm not seeing it. So we'll have to divert from that and just say any desktop 12-volt fan. And that worked pretty good. Yeah, that's a good little solution there. I love how small you can make this. I did try it on, I think the humidifier but that wanted like four amps. Ah, yeah. Yeah, so the max is three amps, the max is 20 volts. But we think that's a good range of things. Yeah. I'll have to try it on the, one of the cord panels you left here. So yeah, just make sure that the barrel jack, because I think that the synthesizers tend to have different center positive versus center negative barrel jacks. So just double check your power supply. If you lost your power supply, maybe you can find a manual and see what thing it wants. So yeah, and then we have of course, all sorts of barrel jacks, DC jack, that have screw block terminals. So something like this is always handy so that you don't have to cut your wire and you can have like nice positive and negative labels on it. I think we have all sorts of different DC jacks. So if your device uses DC jack, oh, this is a nice one of four way that has all the different sizes or something, or maybe it's just regular. I think we have one that has all the sizes, right? Yeah. Is this a weird one too? Like this one, like a 5.5 converter. Remember those? I used those for the LED lights. Oh, really? Yeah. The panels, LED panels. Yeah. Here's another converter, 1.7 millimeter. Don't we have one that's like an array of DC jacks? That's the one I was thinking of when we first said it. It has like a whole, like a kit. There it is. Yeah. No, banana. No, banana panels. There it is. There it is. 30 piece set. And then you can swap them out, right? Oh, they all work with 2.1 barrels. So you can always convert. Jesus, there's so many. Here's them all, all 30 of them. Lenovo laptop has their own kind, but basically every measurement. So there's options out there. Good question by Teyeth on the, if you solder the 5 volt jumper, can you still control it via I squared C? I believe so. I got a few bridge joints. Are you able to still programmatically? I'm not sure. I haven't tested that. Yeah, that's a good question. I'm not sure. I wonder. Yeah, I don't know. We'll have to try that out. Good question though. Okay, other than that, maybe it's us here. You might have to take out the jumper, I think, because it's kind of hardware, right? So you probably did. I think it's like what it would write it. Yeah, you'd have to physically connect it. Yeah, I think so. So you'll probably have to just get rid of the jumper, which is kind of easy. You just re-solder and it's actually easier to unbridge something than to bridge it. Oh yeah. Any who's, that is, that's what we got. It's a pretty handy breakup board. Yeah, I haven't seen something like this before. So it's pretty new and handy. So, check it out. If you need one, we still have them in stock. And if you wanna use our coupon code, you get 10% off. Where is that coupon code? Using USB-C, that's why we call it USB-C. And our adventures and our trials to make everything USB-C. There we go. All right. I'm sure I have a background you can barely see for prototyping section. Yeah. Oh, I can barely see it. All right, let's go ahead and jump into this one. Prototyping, what's that? What were you trying to see? No, I was trying to show the background, but I'm like completely covering it. I just wanted to pull back on that. Oh, that's good. Oh, there you go. All right, let's go ahead and jump into this week's what are we prototyping? We have a nice little display for all of the new screens coming out. This one is for the 3.4 inch display. This is the TTL that is being powered by the Qualia board. So this has an ESP32-S3 on the back here. And it can power a bunch of the new side screens that we have. So we have like the rounded ones. We have the, what did I say, the four, the four inch, three inch, the, oh my God, too many. I feel so bad. I had to get rid of like so many of our old displays because there was just no more room. So all the updated ones are now in its place. And this one has the touch screen on it. So the challenge with this one was just getting the framing right because the touch goes beyond the frame. So all of the touch goes all the way out there. So the way that this is mounted is with this extra little, this is called like a, I don't wanna take it out. Let me grab one of the other ones right here. So it's this little frame that is holding in the display. And that just pops right on top like that to have the standoffs. You can align that to the cutouts. So not completely aligned yet. So I'm gonna scooch it over by a millimeter or so so you can have access for the, what are these, the up, down and reset buttons. And of course your USB-C to power that guy on. One of the cool things that I like about this is the way that the design for this is. So instead of pushing this board all the way out because you don't have enough room with the ribbon cable. I know we have extensions for it, but it doesn't make sense since it's just a little bit that I need to extend it forward. I instead pushed the geometry inwards. So I wouldn't have to mess with having an extension for the ribbon cable. And then you don't have to, hopefully, I don't have to have like little pins for the buttons so that it'll reach down to actuate. So the button can be the button itself. So I can reach all the way down in there. And of course you have all your port openings. So really cool way to get your geometry and just punch it in, have that be closer to the ports you want it to be over. And then this just slides in like that. I can try to come to that just having the outlines for, you know, to get out of the way of your geometry and then having space for the actual ribbons. Paul Rezano, I want to take it out. I was scared of the way that the, this ribbon cable feels pretty fragile. So definitely be careful with that. And it's having enough space for like the touch controller and all that to fit in there nice and snug, but not where it's, you know, difficult to remove or you'll damage the component. Yeah. It's going to get the, so I got Python on there right now. It's just running the Arduino example. It looks kind of scary because it looks pretty. Yeah, it chips with the demo code so to make sure that it works I suppose. Yeah. There is some demo code out there in the product learn guide for the Qualia F3 board. Mm-hmm. Yeah, it's pretty cool. One enclosure. It's very nice. Yeah, there's even room for like a LiPo, but I forgot that's not a bad report. Yeah, it's not a bad report because, yeah. Okay. Yeah, yeah. But you could a sensor or something in there if you wanted to like do humidity, temperature, air quality, that sort of thing. Yeah. Yeah, it's a good idea. Yeah, this could be a air quality sensor with a stem up port here. There's room for maybe some other analog here. Yeah, you can do a sensor or a button. You can make bigger buttons I think, toggle switch, something. You can use that three pin JST port to do button input and other things. You don't like the default buttons, but yeah, the display is, yeah. It's a touch screen, so I don't know, maybe some sort of for, I don't know, can't get a browser on there, right? To control IO or something, or Whipper snapper or something. Yeah, Whipper snapper or weather display would be kind of cool if you do have a DSP on there. But this is the display itself, it's pretty thin. This one's the no touch screen. Yeah, I wanted the touch just for the, to figure out how to get the framing around it. It was what Lamar was concerned about, making sure that fit in there. This is the touch screen. Folks are snatching them up. They're 21 and stuck. Gotta do the rounded and the bar ones next. I know they're still working, they're getting the bar, the code for it to. We still have these in stock. This is the no touch screen. Where's the quality at? Yeah, 2.4, the feather TFT one. Work on that one after. Quality is in stock right now, so if you wanna pick that up. Yes, pick them up. So awesome little board. Oh look at the mining hose now. Yeah, the mining hose are great. We have a 3D model of the quality board too. So you can get it pretty up there. The product learn guide has all the demos and things you can try out. There's some circuit python internet test. And then there's the circuit python display set up. Here's a note, not all of them have power pins are the same, so just be careful, be careful. But yeah, I did that correctly. Yeah, well, we'll come up with something cool. Oh, that's what I was gonna say. Yeah, for the chat room, I need ideas. What can this prop-wise, theme-wise? I think it needs to be a weather display, because like, the old weather display sort of. What, or some sort of IO, Adafruit IO display. Oh, I meant beyond, I meant more of like the case design. Oh, the case design? What can it be? Something mid-century modern. What is coming out? Something mid-century modern, like think of the Loki or Severance, or what's that moon show on Apple Plus. There's a moon show and there's all sorts of new ones. 1950s, mid-century modern influences, like it's pretty hot. All right, well that's pretty cool. Probably Loki then. Something from the like a 70s-esque design, what'll look at 70s or something years. Like the future of the 50s. I guess real quick, prototype, and then we'll do shop talk. Yes. I am in the middle of this. This is a LED noodle tree. I think I showed it last week. I got a topper, Page has got one printed too. The idea here is to have eight LED noodles. I have a mix of red and green. I'm gonna wire these up. But I'm using the LED driver and an RP2040 QT pie. The LED driver is the AW9528. I might be wrong there. But that's all housed here in the bottom. That's connected over stemma QT. So it's really easy to hook that up. And then I'm planning to wire all of the noodles to the various pinouts on the LED driver. On the top here, you can see. I have all of the pins. Oh, it's not in focus. All the pins here are gonna have to solder them together so they're all gonna share voltage. And then the grounds are gonna connect to the individual ground pins. Or rather the individual controller pins on the LED driver so I can do some animations. But it's a pretty cool kind of design. And the LED noodles just press fit into these channels so they're easily installed. And then we'll just have to solder these things up together. But I'm playing around with different covers. So this one has like a little snowflake. And then trying to get kind of fancy with the holder here. So here you can see the QT pies USB-C port here for powering. It'll be a desktop powered thing. And then to hide the wires here, I have this little snap fit, press fit rather, topper and then this little Adafruit star. I thought about having like one of those fancy LEDs on top here, but it'd be hard to... Which fancy LED? We have these called deluxe. There's like a skull, there's fat, there's feet here, triangles. I was going to do it. But honestly, I think it'll be challenging to get like a wire, two wires to pass through here and then down in here. Cause I do have to solder all these together and then have one wire that is sharing the voltage connections all the way down. That's why I have a center hole here cause that's going to pass the main wire. So I'll have to sort all that out. I'm doing this fairly early because I have time to fail. I have time to prototype it. So I have about a month. Christmas is already here, man. I know that's why I'm worried about it now. Been challenging to come up with this like channel fit. Oh yeah, this is, I don't even know how you came up with the... It's a combination of using the coil tool, infusion along with the pipe tool, offsetting things, circular patterns, all sorts of features infusion. And then printing it in translucent filament. There's no supports for this, which is crazy cause the way it just is. Yeah, yeah. So that is a work in progress. I really liked the color changing filament you got going on there for the topper. That's really nice. It looks like the oil spill, huh? It just looks iridescent to me. Oil spill sounds kind of gross. I wouldn't say that, but it just feels magical. Yeah, I didn't cut the filament like I said it was. So you could see it's like three, but I'm looking at this color. It looks like there's four colors. Yeah, it does. It's a really nice blend there. Yellow, blue, green, blue. That goes into the purple and the red. That is so cool. That's amazing. It's called rosy matte. I saw this, and I think it was on Colts. They print an oogie boogie, and it looks like the 2D effect where you could see the green and the red. Right, yeah. Like fuzzy static. Yeah, that's what it looks like. I was like, whoa, that looks like glitchy, like fuzzy 90s. Can you drop a link to the filament while I showcase the little Adafruit thing here? Let me do full screen. This is a little Adafruit tree topper. I used it in one of our LED desktop trees that I did a while ago with the Neopixel, or maybe it was Circuit Playground Express. But yeah, this is a fun little no support. You can print two of them and then glue them together. But I printed it at a 0.1 millimeter layer height, so it's got a little bit more resolution. But it's got some curves to it. It's pretty nice. So if you want a little Adafruit star for your Lego, it's gonna work pretty well. But that's what we're using for the top of the tree right now. Yeah. Look at Adabot just kind of waving it around like a cheerleader. Pretty nice. So other than that, that is what I'm prototyping. I think we're gonna shift gears and take a look at, or not community makes, shop talk, I think. I wanna give a shout out to Tyeth, who posted a 3D model of the 3.2 inch touch bar display. Give me time to review this. Tyeth has a step file, which is awesome, excellent. They sketched on top of what looks like the data sheet, which is really great. So I'll try this out and bring it into the 3D CAD parts GitHub repo. So again, shout out to Tyeth for posting this up. I think it'll work. I have one here. I think you have one on order, Pedro. No, I have one here. Yeah, I have one now. Yeah, it'll be the next one. We can try it out. It's what Lamar requested. Yeah, okay. Yeah, I wanna use this too, this bar display. So shout out to Tyeth for posting that up. I will take a moment to review it after the show. And then if it's all good, I'll bring it into the CAD parts repo. Awesome. Tyeth did have a question I forgot. He was asking about the overlap for the front cover of the touch panel. And just look at where, you can kind of see where it begins or where it ends. So that's what I did. I just measured how much you can see where the panel starts and where the touch, like beyond like the mapping for the overlay for the touch display, you can see where it is. You can just measure it. Okay. I don't know what it is off the top of my head. 2.4, something like that. Okay, that's all I did. I just, you can look at the, like at an angle and see where the screen stops. Yeah. I just measure it from there. Yeah, I guess it's not in the data sheet, maybe. I think it is, but it, you know, physically I... Change it. Yeah, I've noticed sometimes the data sheet will say something, but then the way it's manufactured it might get scooched over a little bit. Yeah, they have the tolerance leeway, so they can always shift. Mm-hmm. I mean, I'm sure... The viewability, too, that's another thing you got to think of, too. If you're viewing it like below or above, you might want to add a chamfer to it so that the viewability, you can still see like downwards or depending on the angle that you're looking at. So I have noticed that. So you can go a little bit towards the blink, you know, the touch display part, you can add more bleed to it. Yeah, for sure. Talking like publishing terms here. Well, it kind of is, you know? How much view port can you see in the screen? You always want a little bit of extra gap. So that's why I'm looking at my iMac and it does have a little bit of extra gap. Just a tiny bit, you can see that black outline on the iMac. So you definitely want to have... A little bit of extra. Yep. And putting it on again, the angle and all that. See, what did this come through? Oh, on Twitch? Take this little sand. Okay, you got to cover the class panel but avoid the touch area. The data shape model includes it. Excellent. Yes. All right. Cool. Yeah, thank you again, Tyeth, for posting that up. I will try it out and bring it in. Cool. If anyone... The link to the tri-filament as well. Oh, thanks. I'm gonna pick some up. Yeah. If you want to get any of the 3D models, of course, you can get the individual parts. I just added the USB 238 breakout right here. Just as a refresher, if you just want one part and not the whole repo, you can always come up here. Where'd it go? Did they change things again? Add file. They used to have a download file thing. Maybe you have to click on the individual file. And yeah, there's a little icon here. Download raw file and that'll let you download the file, whichever one you want. STLs have like a STL viewer, which is kind of neat. So you can always take a look at the model before you download it. This one includes the screw block terminal. But if you get the step file or the fusion file, you can always turn that off if you want to just... Cause it is, you know, look how tall it is that can affect your enclosure in a really thin profile. You want to get rid of that. So we have options. But yeah, I'll add parts as we get to them. If you have part requests, you can always add your part requests. I have a little bit of a backlog right now, but I'll get through it. And we have a lot of parts. Check it out. And that is this week's Shop Talk. All right, are we ready for the time lapse? Let's see this week's community makes. I muted it. A mug chomp by Crackdrag. This is a printed place. Perfect timing, perfect timing with Mario Wonder. Do they actually have rainbowy chomps? I have not checked. I don't know. I need to pick up the game though. I know. This is so cool. It's like a bear trap. Yeah, I like I got a tiny mug to go with the theme. I don't know. It just matches. Oh yeah, it's just the mug I was using that morning. But yeah, this is a really cool like bear trap. So it's like weight activated. As the platform pushes down, you can see that these two little guys are moving each side of the chompers. Sorry. I wish this model was like rounded out I did chomp myself several times. Oh, that's fun. So there's like a little cylinder on here that aligns with that little key. Oh, it just ends so it doesn't rotate. And then you can see there the way it's just pushing down on it. And then that leverage. It's just pushing the lever. All right. Still pretty cool. And a lot of it is printed place. Yeah, this is all printed place. Even the chains, they print at an angle. Whoa, am I cutting out? Yeah, you're going a little slow there. I love them. I don't know. Let me, persevere. Was that me? Yeah, you're out for some reason. Your main camera. Ha. Yeah. Anyway, while you fix that, I'll talk about the design on cold 3D. Yeah, I'll go ahead and reload. So this is a paid model on cold 3D. It's only a dollar 70 euros. Maybe not a dollar euros. But you can, you know, it'll convert. You can, you can buy it for whatever the conversion is. Correct design is the designer again. I think you have some really nice images. You can paint it, I suppose. Yeah, yeah, yeah. That's a change of eyes. Yeah. I love the little chain part back here. It's so cool. Yeah, it's pretty cool. There's a little spikes on it. And definitely wanted to try out the tricolor filament just because of all the trippiness that I've seen in Myra Wonder. So I wanted to continue that with this crazy. Keep the dream glitch. Yeah, pipe dream. Yeah, it is very glitchy. Is that the same filament that you used for the Tree Topper? Yeah. It looks like there's some more stridations on that. Is that just because of the model or, I don't know. But it is come true. It looks like it is completely stridated. Yeah. Which is kind of... Not a little better than that one. Yeah. I think it's even different than that. It's like so smooth on this one. But this one, it's like every couple layers is like a different color. What happened? Maybe it's the size of the model or maybe it's like twisting, like as it's going down into the extruder. This is the filament, yeah? Do you post it up? Yeah, yeah. It looks gorgeous. Yeah, I'm gonna pick some up. This is great. Oh, look, a Christmas tree. Ha-ha. There you go. Wow. So many colors. Yeah, so it's like really like these colors. All right. Yeah. And how much was it? It's called multi-colors, tri-colors, three in one, chrome, co-extrusion. Imagine that matte, the matte PLA, which is not the strongest. This one's definitely better than other ones we've had before. It is a little easy to like chisel. So it is easy to work with if you wanna like, with an X-Acto knife, you know, sort of removes like oozing and stuff like that. I'm surprised it's not shiny. It is not shiny. Yeah, it's matte. It looks shiny though. Especially with the light casting on it. It looks like it's shiny. It's matte. Wow. It looks shiny. I like it. I'm gonna get some. No, that's really cool. Yeah, I'm just for sure. And it has good quality. We did not too much string or whatnot. I'm guessing it was because it was this model, but this was stringy. And then the settings that I was using, that might've had something to do with it because I tried printing out this tree and it completely failed. Doing the infill, the under traveling inside Acura. It's, what the heck is it? Retraction on, for the retraction, only within, not with outer model, I think is what I told you, right? Yeah, let me look at your text. It says, under extrusion, set combing mode to not on outer surface. That's what it was. Yeah. So the combing mode, that's what it was. Combing mode set to not on outer surface. Okay. Yeah, some of the verbiage on Acura is like not on. Why can't you just say? I think you need illustrations. I think you need illustrations to go along with that. Yeah. All right, but it's cool. Very good kind of shop talk-ish. It's like double negative crap. First new filament. This color changing filament is always nice, especially for printers that are only one extruder, single extruders. I really like these type of dual tone prints. That's all the verbiage. And to have it matte, that's pretty good. Cause some of the silky stuff can be brittle and break, but this stuff tends, I guess it's good. No, you know, clog free, smooth, PLA, just regular PLA. Show should be low warp, easy printing. So I'm going to try that out. I would like to see the bottom base here, printed in that color. I have like this silver color and I kind of want some more color to it. Hey, there goes my tip. There it goes. It might look like that. Oh yeah, let me, yeah. Kind of cool. Wait. It's not like paint, we're going to like mix together. Right. Yeah. Yeah, this is just copper, silky copper from like Eson, which is okay, but I kind of want more color. Yeah, right. That is all for the show, right? No, no, no, no. We have a ton of community makes. It should take up the rest of the time. Oh geez, I see. Yeah, so again, time lapse, you can purchase the STLs cause it is a paid model, but check it out. We think it's a fun one. All right, off to community makes this week. We have a make of our print in place owl that has a spinny head. This was printed, posted up by Travis. They said they printed it in blue silk scale. It's a 60% and it works great. Sweet. Yeah, cause it's kind of big. So let's, let me reload. Get it big. Uh-oh. It's not loading a full image. You're going to have to just look at this. What's going on with the internet, huh? So looks great. It's a nice owl. Check it out. After that, we have a post from broke jet fixer. They posted up their make of the lightsaber ARPY2040 printed in PLA plus on an Elgo Neptune 4 printer. Cannot wait to finish the electronics. And printed in this lovely black filament. Looks very shiny and very nice. After that, we have the master sword ARPY2040. This is the updated master sword with a prop maker feather. This was posted up by LJ Silver. They said made it for my granddaughter and she loves it. Nice. I'm not sure if the electronics are in there, but it looks great. And this, they painted the little golden details. Looks good. And it's good for the kids. It's kids size, as you can see. It's still break for the kids. It's harder to break. It's harder to break. It's nice and thick. Excellent. After that, we have a pie badge. This is posted up by CodeNinja's Amelia Island. Works great. Did a remix for a thicker wall on the front face. I don't know. Yeah. Yes. The reason it was thin was so you could have that translucency. Right. But if you don't want that, you can. Yeah. Thicker is fine. Cool. After that, we have something from Facebook. I'm a part of the annual pass holder. Oh, I saw this. Right. I'm a part of the annual pass holder group. It's kind of a private group, I guess. It's public, but you have to get accepted or something. But anyway, Michael posted up their make of the Apcot Spaceship Earth ball with WLED and a QT pie. So it just looks super cool. Especially with that vernoi vase in the background. That looks really cool. Yeah. So that's nice. But again, I'm staring at this. I just saw it because I'm a part of the group. And I was like, hey, check it out. And folks are asking how they did it. And you can get the link in there if you see it. After that, we have another make. This time, Jennifer Simpson. Really nice, easy print. Thanks for sharing. And this one did load. It's in that. It looks like a copper. Kind of like how the copper is. So odd at full scale. Super cool owl. If you're into owls, check it out. It's fun. It's nice to play with the head because it spins. Print in place. No supports. And then over on Thingiverse, we got a make of the Halo Energy Sword posted up by MJ Heat. They remixed it for a, I think it looks like a copper. Yeah, an EL inverter. So you can see here. They post-processed their handle parts. And here it is on. Kind of open though. So they kind of have a really long strand of EL wire. They got a really good photo of it. Here it is. I think there's some extra details added. Maybe that's a, that looks like a push button. Turn on the inverter so you don't have to open it. Cool. Yeah, very, very cool. Super sweet model. There it is on. Can I full screen? Yeah. Tron-esque. It looks very bright. Or EL wire. Look that bright. The camera got a really good shot of it. Maybe it's a low, no, a long exposure. A long exposure maybe. So it looks fantastic. It just looks really cool. Almost looks like LED noodles. That would be one hell of an LED noodle like that long. I think we have long noodles though. A meter long. Yeah. They said, I made one for my nephew just in time for Halloween. Opted to use EL wire, continuous light instead of the dotted lines of the LED strips. It's very damn. Still should be good for nighttime Halloween. Had to modify the handle to fit the new controller with batteries to improve the strength of the blades. I mixed up some two-part clear epoxy and poured coating inside each blade half. This made the blades much stronger than super glue alone. Plus, it's still soft. I laid out the EL wire and pressed it into the soft epoxy. Oh, good. Very pleased with the results. Thanks for sharing. Pressed it on an Ultimaker. That's two plus with different types of filament. Super cool. Yeah, this is like a legacy 2015 project. Still kicking. Very nice. And the last one to round off the show. We got the remix from R2H2 posted up on printables. It's their Neopixel Jewel holder for the lightsaber. So instead of using a tube, you can have a more of a flashlight. So this little holder is remixed to hold. How's the new pixel jewel? And then you can still use the prop maker because it's a Neopixel. So you get all the same benefits just a little bit less. So you get a nice flashlight out of it instead of this long tube. So a little bit easier build, I think. But pretty cool. Thanks for posting that up. Again, from R2H2. And that is this week's community makes. Thank you, everybody, so much for posting your makes. They came in last minute, too. Like I added these last minute. So a lot of makes. People are back to making, I think. This is a good season to get projects made. All right, if you want to pick up anything in the Adafruit shop, discount code is USBC. We got lots of things back in stock, more things coming, new products on the horizon. Tonight is two shows, back-to-back shows, starting at 7.30 PM Eastern time. We have show and tell. We invite you to come on. You can come on and join, share your project by going to the Adafruit Discord channel. Well, 10 minutes before Mr. Laydata will post a link to the StreamYard, and you can join in. And then at 8 PM Eastern time is Asken Engineer with Lamar and Phil. I believe Lamar and Phil will be hosting the show and tell as well. Yeah. Tomorrow is JP's product, no, JP's workshop. And then Friday is a deep dive with, I think Scott, he's been doing up the recent weeks, the deep dives. So you can always tune in on Fridays at 2 PM, Pacific, or 5 PM Eastern. What else? What else? I think that is it. Got to do it. Yeah. Well, thank you, everybody, so much for joining us during the live show. And for folks watching on the archive, we appreciate everybody. I think that's it. Any other stuff? What's next week? I don't know. I think we might take a break so we can catch up on documenting current ongoing projects. Dinner of the Countdown. Yep, we can do another countdown. Next week will be November. So have a safe, happy Halloween. You can always start your Halloween projects now, and you'll be early for next year. Oh, wow, it's on Tuesday. What's that? Yeah, it's next Tuesday. Yeah, and Wednesday is November 1st. So really, really, I don't know, do you feel like? Yeah, man, the year's almost over. Yeah, the year's almost over. Lots of things. AdaBox is happening this year. So we have a look out. Awesome. All right, folks. Again, coupon code USB-C. Thanks, everybody, so much for watching. We'll see you next week. But until then, remember to make a great day. See you tonight. Wait, where's my thing? Here it is.