 My name is Noah Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Joining me every week is my brother Pedro with the Blinkershirt. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro. I was creative tech here at Adafruit. And every week we're here to share three printed projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. Yeah, that's right. It's sure combined 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello, everybody, hanging out in the Discord chat room and in the live tunnel. Tunnel. We're going to take a moment to welcome everybody in the show. If you'd like to join us while we're doing the show live. Come on over to discord.gg slash Adafruit. We're also hanging out in all of the streaming channels like YouTube, Twitch, Periscope, Facebook, LinkedIn. Come on, stop and buy. Say hi. Giving shout outs to everybody hanging out in all of the chat rooms. We've got Liz, Blip City, DIY. Hello, hello. We've got Andy Calloway, Jim Hendrickson, Rosyn. We've got Rolls, Redo Strike, Charles Benafor, Unheard Grace. Sorry we're going through all these. Good morning. Good afternoon. Good evening to everybody hanging out all over the world. Good morning, King North. And Bill Strultz. Hello, everybody. Good morning. Yeah, we got a really fun show this week. We have two projects to catch up on. We have some prototyping, a little bit of shop talk, some community makes, and of course some time lapses, and all that on, you guessed it, 3D Hangout. So we're going to run through some of the housekeeping stuff in the morning as we pay some of these bills. And you can help us do so by ordering more stuff at Adafruit. You'll get some freebies. We have three tiers of 3D stuff going on, so let me walk through them real quick. If you spend $99 or more, you'll get a free half size from a Proto breadboard PC bake. It gets automatically added to your cart. And for orders that are $149 or more, you'll get that half size from a Proto PCB plus a randomly selected Stemma QT breakout board. If you have a registered account with Adafruit, we'll make sure you don't get the same one twice. For orders that are $200 or more, you'll get that Stemma QT breakout, the half size from a Proto, and free ground shipping for UPS in the continental US only. So check out Adafruit.com slash free for all of the deets. Head on over to the jobs board at jobs.adafruit.com. You see all the latest job listings that are out there. I'm seeing some new ones here. We have a freelance gig in the New York area for some chained LED panels for theater super titles. I'm also seeing a lead hacker position at the Hack Club in Burlington, Vermont. And that's a full-time position. So if you are in the market for a gig or an employer looking for some make or help, you can post up your resume or offer job thing at jobsadafruit.com. It's free to do so. Okay, we're going to go to the newsletter every week. Once a week, there is a newsletter from Adafruit that's focused on products. This week is a newsletter focused on products. Hey, how did we get in there? We're inside the retro computer. It's springtime and lots of spring-flavored products are getting added. So if you want to be the first to know about what new products get added on the weekly, you can subscribe to the newsletter at adafruit.com slash newsletter. Look at Adabot with his hat backwards. So hip. Even Blinka has a hat on. They all have hats on. The LEDs have LEDs because it rains during the summer. They should have the umbrellas on. Yeah, the umbrella hats. All right, Hans does not have a hat on. He doesn't want one. We also have another newsletter. It's a daily newsletter, and that's a separate website. Go to adafruitdaily.com to see all the different categories of funness, such as Python on microcontrollers, 3D printing, biohacking, maker business, and more. Shout out to everybody who subscribed to the Python on microcontrollers newsletter and shout out to Anne Barela for making it happen. And everybody for submitting your stories. You can also do so by hitting up Anne on the Discord to get your stories featured on the weekly Python on microcontrollers newsletter. Give a huge shout out to Paul Cutler for doing the Circuit Python Show podcast. It's coming back, and we are anticipating the next season of the Circuit Python Show with interesting folks, some folks from Adafruit and folks from the community. Shout out to Paul and be sure to subscribe on your favorite podcast player. I think that's it for housekeeping, right? Yeah, so yeah, we're ready to talk about the projects. We're going to leave it up to you folks if you'd like us to talk about this week's project or last week's project, we have options. So if you'd like us to talk about this one first, this is a really cool. They're both Circuit Python projects. This is a really fun portable speaker that you can trigger different sound effects. So we're thinking this would be really cool for a scooter or a bike. You can have all sorts of fun sound and it uses Audio Mixer Circuit Python. Or do you want the 11,000 LEDs, lots of LEDs, a replica of the connection machine from Thinking Machines. I'm going to go Raspberry Pi. And choose the Thinking Machine. Since we have a little bit of delay, so it'll take a little bit. Yeah, we'll be here all day. All right, let's go ahead and take a look at the Thinking Machine. This is collaboration with The Dragon, Mr. Cobraguess, who really wanted to have one of these awesome little thinking machines on your desktop. So he wrote up a bunch of really cool little example demos. So what this is is a Raspberry Pi case. So you can see all of the ports in the back here. You plug this into the wall and you have eight of these Charlie Plex matrices that are creating all of the lovely animations there. So what we're displaying here is the audio visualizer. There you go. Audio visualizer. It uses the USB microphone on the back of the Pi there to get really easy audio input. And it's taking that data and plotting it here on all the various LEDs. Hello. Yeah, so it's all done in Python. And you can modify it and take a look at all the code that's out there. Yes, so we're using the black LED acrylic to create the diffusion on there. You can see if I slide it back a little bit. You can see the matrices on the back there. It does give it that lovely diffusion that creates the look of the connection machine. So we slide in and out like that. We use the CNC to cut all these out. And then on the back you have plenty of grills to provide some nice cooling for the Pi. You can have some on the bottom here because it can get kind of hot. And all of these are removable. So you can see on the inside here all of the wiring and the connections for everything that's going on in there. Pretty simple. The most challenging part of this is creating all of the connection wires, splitting all those off and creating multiple grounds and power for each of the matrices. Everything's put together with the female silicone jumper cables. They just plug right into the header, make everything nice and simple and modular. So you can disassemble all this and nothing is like soldered together. We'll accept the headers for the short matrices. Yep, the Learn Guide covers all of the steps and code, circuit diagram, all the good stuff for building your own step-by-step. I have this as well. So what's cool about this project is the bottom is modular. So if folks can't get the Raspberry Pi, surely you can get the Raspberry Pi RP2040. This is that $5 chip that everybody knows about by now. It's readily available and it's got lots of GPIO. And it's got enough ports for doing the whole LED thing. I'm trying to say the word. What is it? It's got two i-squared C-buses. So this is what this is using, two i-squared C-buses. And you have one, two, three, four. You have eight of these Charlie Plex LEDs. So we'll jump into the Learn Guide. But if folks have any questions, we'll go through that. But I just remembered we're talking about the Pico. So the Pico only has one demo right now, which is written in Circuit Python. But you can use that demo code that Philby wrote and write your own if you want to do some more crazier projects. But this demo is particularly written for the Raspberry Pi because it can do the audio stuff. As you're talking about the demo, let's go ahead and run through them. If you hold this up, I'll swap out to the Jurassic Park inspired animation chase one. Sure. So if you've got the Raspberry Pi, you're just going to get more animations because it was a little bit easier to do that. So this one's showing two rows that are alternating. And this is kind of what you've seen in the Jurassic Park original film. I really like this one because of the way that every other two rows are going in each opposite direction. So it looks like a nice little rotating DNA strand. And then your standard, where's the other one? CPU load. So this is just based on what the Raspberry Pi processor is working on at the moment. So if we do like a pseudo update, you'll see it all go crazy. Basically that already is. It's doing an update. But of course, my favorite one is just that plain chase one and then the audio reactive one. I like the audio reactive the best because it's interactive. Yeah. Let's go back to that one. Cool. So if you get yourself a Raspberry Pi server, an octoprint rig, this would be really cool to have it next to your desk. Yeah, it's definitely what I'm going to use this as. I'm going to repurpose it for the octoprint rig on the new printer. I'd like to have it in the background. Oh. If you can cut more acrylic. I have enough parts to make another one. Yeah, I can cut more acrylic. Definitely do that. All right, cool. Let's go ahead and jump into the learn guide. Okay, so we got this video real quick. Real quick, Rob Zaskan does a Raspberry Pi create a lot of lag on the visualizer. It looks like it's like a two second lag when you do the, for the audio visualizer. So if I clap, you'll see like two seconds later that we'll do the activation. So yeah, there is a little bit of lag. Okay. You don't know that. It seems pretty responsive though. Yeah. I'm just looking at the chat. Okay. So yeah, this, so Anne and Lamar checked out the Museum of Modern Art in New York, and Lamar was standing right next to a replica. I think it was a replica, yeah. It's a replica of the CM5, the CM, the connection machine had several versions of it. This was our favorite version because it's just this cubic looking thing, and it's just as big as a room. A little correction on that. The CM5 was the skinny one. So this is like CM2. CM1, CM2 was the two versions that had the bigger cubed format. Yeah, and PT was really animate about like one day we're going to build this, and we built it in like one scale, tenth of a scale, whatever the scale factor is. Yeah, PT's a good, he's a good predictor of future stuff. Yeah. Now anybody can have their own little connection machine on their desktop. Definitely check out the guide. They'll be added a bunch of the verbiage in here and explain why this is, without a doubt, the best looking computer of all time. Period. No questions asked. Just look at it. All of the parts are in stock. Like forget the Raspberry Pi. We know that's not in stock, but the RP2040 is indeed in stock. It's $4, not $5. I'm impressed. But all the little things to make it kind of work is in stock. We've got the black LED acrylic and the various LED Charlie Plex matrices. Don't forget the driver. Do not forget the driver. That's why they're separate, yeah, because you have the option to change the LED color. When you click on it, I want to point out a thing. This one? Yeah. It will suggest, would you also like to add? Right. So that's a cool tip. Yeah. So most of the products do have that little suggestion on additional add-ons that you're going to need for it to actually function and look like what it does in the product page. Yep. They're all connected through iSquaredC. So you can daisy chain them together fairly simply. And another point to, another thing to point out too, when you scroll down a little bit, on every product page you'll see what project they were used in to give you some ideas on what code you can use or other arrangements for the component. Cool. Yes, yes. All right. Another stuff to, so yeah, pick your, pick the thing. If you have a pie on hand, maybe just go with the pie because you get more demos. Yeah. I mean, it's going to be tougher to find a pie. Yeah. The only way I see this actually working is if you're using the pie as a streaming server or you're doing like piehole or you're doing the octoprint setup or the wise, yeah, it's okay to just go with the Pico and just have a nice little animation in the background. Cool. All right. Well, that's the overview page. Just give you an idea of all the parts you'll need. 3D printing. This thing takes about 17 hours to print the front, about 20 hours to print the back. And I think about three hours of print the bottom. So it's split up into three individual pieces that are all screwed together. And then the frame screw onto the front. The bottom screws into the two front and back pieces. And the little frames all screw into the front as well. Before printing this out, you'll want to do a little assessment. Can I fit this on the bed of my 3D printer? And do I have the right PLA filament? So we have a minimum print bed of 150 cubed. So as long as your 3D printer has a bed of around 150, you should be able to print this no problem. It should be most printers, I think. The only some are like 140. I think that's like the flash forwards, the little ones. All right. And then a lot of folks always ask what PLA this is. So we have it linked directly to the Amazon. If they're out of stock, that's out of our control. But at least you know directly where we got this filament. It's called sparkly glitter from Erty One. Because this has become our default printing material. Yeah, it's fantastic stuff. It seems to be always in stock. Great. No clogs, no jams. And I like how it usually ships tomorrow. Like next day. Decently priced. And they have it in several different colors. So you can see they're all glittery style. We just like this stuff. The gray is really good for these type of projects. Yeah. Glitter black, rather, sorry, not gray. Because they do have like a silver one. Which is cool too for other types of projects. So here's your filament. Yes. It seems to be in stock. Cool. Going back to the learn guide, there's some tips here on... You can download all the files there. You got the step file. You got the acrylic template you're going to need to CNC. Or just to print out on the piece of paper. And then you can score it, cut it out. Or use a jigsaw. However you'd like to cut your acrylic. The panels, you just need four of them. It needs to be a little bit precise. So that's what the template. Just print that out and then stick it onto your material. Yeah, I did add a bunch of chamfers and fillets on the rails where the acrylic panel slides into. To give you as much wiggle room to get the acrylic plate to slide in there. But you do have to be as precise as you can for that. And then with the print settings, we have all listed before here, you are going to need support material. Unfortunately, because of the way that the grills for the vents are and the mounting standoffs are all of this. I do have 45 degree angle cuts on a bunch of them. But just because of how they are pretty much in the air, they're like the top parts. You can kind of see in the gif there. I do have to add supports on that. Okay. And I have all the support settings for that. All listed down below. And then I just added included a picture of what your supports will look like. So don't be discouraged if you have like stringing and all these blocks that it cleans up beautifully. One of the tools that I wish that I had put in here was that little pink spatula that I think a Cree cut sells with their Cricut vinyl machines. It's like a pallet knife. And I use that to scrape off all of the little, the blobs. The zits. Yeah. And it cleans up so beautifully. And it's so satisfying to just like scrape away at everything. And yeah, that's a really good shot of what it looks like before and after. Oh, wow. Yeah. And it, as you can see, it's not leaving behind any like scratches or like scrapes from me sitting there. Would you turn the traction off? What would happen here? So that one was, it's the CR3, the retraction on the Titan direct drive is not as good as the Bodtech direct drive. All right. But it prints. I mean, I had to use every single printer that we had. Yeah. Don't be afraid to like sand this down. This is why I posted. Really smooth finish. Yeah. This is why I posted the picture. No post processing. Just clean up. And this is what it'll look like. All right. And there's still more like, you know, string there. You can see that I can go in there and like clean up even more. Yeah. Yeah. But that's just to, you know, sort of not to. Right. It looks like. It's on courage. Hairy mess, but it's okay. That's underneath all that is beautiful. Okay. Wonderful. But yeah, these are, these are some good handful of settings for your supports. Just so you know, this is all done in Cura. It's a free open slicing that supports just about all the printers out there that are open. So yeah, we recommend. I think I'm saying that this is Cura. I think we need to start putting on their Cura version though, because with Cura five, the whole engine has changed. I might have to mess with tweak the settings and make sure we get all the same printing profiles. Yeah. How this one is set up. So yeah, this is before version five. Okay. Which I know we're going to have to do some testing. This auto-generated or do we need to replace them? No, these are all auto-generated. Cool. So the 70% for the overhang angle and that should give you not too many. Right. This will limit some of the, yeah. This will limit some of the, some of the support. Overhangs, yeah. Because you're telling it, hey, only look for things that have a 70 degree overhang. So that's smart. Yep. Cool. All right. And then acrylic panels. There's a nice little paragraph there on how to cut those up with the exact blade super careful. Yep. We did this with the CNC mill. Yeah. It was pretty precise. I think it would be way better with the laser cutter. We just don't have one. But hey, a big tip here would be to get them pre-cut for you from tapplastics. Tapplastics.com. Yeah. We need to put that in there. They can do that or pinoco.com. That's a great service. It's just we don't link them because what happens if they're not there tomorrow. So that's probably why we haven't linked them. But just know that you do have some services that will cut things to shape. Namely, tapplastics and pinoco. They'll have a service charge or whatever, but it's all on you. If you want to do it that route, you'll get a precise cut. And you can get plenty of quantities. Oh, and Roll Quick where we're still on three print page. Liz says that she's also had good luck with the Hatchbox glitter PLA. We checked that one out. You're using the Hatchbox yellow PLA that came out so good. We'll talk about in the sound box. Cool. Any questions folks can drop them in about the acrylic? Yep. I just realized that pinoco, I don't think they offer plaque LED acrylic. This is a very special acrylic. And tapplastics, they have a different thickness of... Oh, okay. Just forget everything I said. No tap plaques. Unfortunately, they have a different... It would not fit. That's another thing. The thickness of our black LED acrylic, the Adafruit stocks, is actually different than tapplastics. I just remembered. So, yeah, you're going to have to cut it yourself. Which side? Another comment from Dayo20 saying this would be an amazing pie to operate control 1's Prusa 3D printer. Yes. Makes an excellent optical print. Raspberry Pi setup. Moving on to assembly. Okay. The most complicated part is going to be the printing because it just takes a long. This will probably be the second most complicated. Just because of how many headers and how many pins need to be soldered together. Make sure you have ventilation. I had like two Fume Extractor fans on because this is so much soldering. Not only are you looking the front, not only are you soldering the front. There's so many pins. What is it? Like each side has however many and then double that called droopa that because then you have to solder the back of the... So if you want to make a real thinking machine, they're pretty close to a real thinking machine. Look at all the connections there. All that's Y-splitted or whatever. You're soldering multiple wires together just to kind of simplify. I'm just talking about soldering the driver to the LED board. The header has to get soldered to the... Yeah, so this is going to be a... This is going to take you a while to solder all of these. There's eight of these panels. However, the circuit diagram... It's like soldering 16 boards and then how many individual pins, times that times two and then times two again. Because you got to do the front and the back. You've just discouraged everyone, haven't you? It's put on some music, you know? All right. We'll just say on your headphones, dragons are here. You're going to want to look at this note, right? Because each one of these has a different address. Well, not each one. We'll talk about that. They have different addresses. So you can see here in the circuit diagram, you'll want to reference the I squared C bus addresses here for each of the matrices. This isn't an expert, actually. Because these are in the back, you have to bridge some connections to address each panel. I would say if you have a perma-proto, try to use the power and ground rails as a bus. That way you're not having to do a bunch of sharing. I would recommend next, that's a simple way to kind of share power and ground across a bunch of boards. Because you don't have that many power and ground on the Pi itself. So that's one tip that you can break away from our learned guys. You don't use a bus. But if you know what you're doing, you're probably... There's enough room to fit a bus in there. Yeah, there's totally enough room. But you could even do a screw block terminal bus. And I forgot to mention, there are mounts on the inside to attach an additional frame. Like a sensor or a fan is probably what people want attached to there. So you do have that additional mounting option. Cool. But in any manner, do you want to print this out and have it as a preference sheet? I had to have it on my phone to reference. That's great. Yeah, that's a good tip too. And then here's the Raspberry Pi Pico. Fairly similar. All the address buses are about the same, but just pick one and you'll know what to do. Cool. Again, we're going with the silicone coated female to female jumper cables. So we can easily plug into the male headers on both the matrices and the Pico or the Raspberry Pi. They're already on there. And what you want to do here, like Philby's explanation of you're twisting a four of the same size, wires and the fifth one on the other opposite side is all soldered together. And then protected with some of the shrink or all that. So you're going to make what so many freaking cables to 40 half wires total. Wow. So yeah, again, this one is when once you're done with that side of the quest, then there's the other quest of building all the wires for it, which is just as difficult or time consuming. It's just time consuming. So those two parts are going to be the most and the printing. It's going to be the most time consuming part. It'll take about two days to make this thing when it's all said and done. So the frames for all the matrices screw into the front with two M25 by 12 millimeter long screws. Yeah, that's cool. This is a good way to elevate and precisely position the matrices exactly where they need to be. How far away they are from the diffusion is dependent on where they are relative to the acrylic. That took a little bit to figure out. But it's been figured out. So it's good. So you're going to print these little frames and then you're going to use M25 screws to attach them. Recommend metal screws, not the plastic ones, because you need to bite into them. No plastic screws for this. So please use metal screws. Crap, I just realized some of the hardware isn't listed in the front page. I think I put the parts to all the Albany links to all of the sides. Oh yeah, I have that all in there. Okay, cool. Even on the next project. You can get it from McMaster Car 2, if they're more worldwide or whatever. Yeah, Albany is pretty fast and I like how they have their 100 pass. It's just that they're in the States and you don't want to cut your... Yeah, yeah, yeah. McMaster Car is like global. Yeah, okay. They're like the number one fastener place. But yeah, you want some metal screws. They're 12-length, 12 millimeters in length. It's all listed here. And then these are 8 millimeters in length. And then these are... It doesn't matter what side you mounted them on. You can kind of see in the picture there. They're symmetric. Yeah, they're symmetric. So they have some cutaways that are required for the headers. So you can kind of see how some of the standoffs have some parts cut off of here. And that's to make room for the header. Right. Header pin. Cool. So they just snap into these little pegs. Mm-hmm. And yeah. Yeah, I wanted to have them screw in but once you look at the... There's no way. There's no mounting holes for that. When the backpack is in front, like your mounting hole is now blocked. So you won't be able to take it out. You'd have to do this anyway. It's a good method here to have these pegs. Because then you can still pop them out. There's no other way. And then this is what we're talking about. Soldering the address pads for this. If you click on one of those to enlarge, you can see how these are laid out. It's going to go from 74. I'm sorry. 74. Yeah, sorry. 74, 75, 60, 77. Mm-hmm. Okay. And they go in that row. And they're reversed when you actually put it in. This is upside down, I think. So you might want to do a 180. Oh, gotcha. Well, I think I did it that way because that's what you're looking at. And then when you actually mount it, it's the reverse side. Oh, yeah. Okay. Just be aware of your orientation. Yep. Cool. But it's easy enough to bridge these jumpers. Mm-hmm. And if you want to take them out, you can use some, what is it called, WIC? Some solder WIC to remove the jumper if you need to. Actually, you can just re-solder it. And it'll probably just split apart because it has a tendency to just not want to unify. Right. Okay. So it's easier to take them off. Yeah, it's even easier than that. Okay. Well, cool. All right. And there's a layout for all eight of those. Make sure that you have your layout all set up before mounting all of these. Yeah. Good checkpoint here. Okay. Everything looks good. Oh, and I do have the headers trimmed here. You don't need to. There's enough room on the bottom. So you don't... Because, again, that's another time-consuming thing. So don't... You don't need to do that. Okay. Fair. I updated the frame so you wouldn't need to. And then, yeah, just make sure that you have all the layouts arranged properly. And then you can start press-fitting all these into place one by one, making sure that, you know, it's going in order. And then you can slide your acrylic sheet right over from here. Start plugging out all the jumpers and mount your pie. Using a Raspberry Pi, you are going to need this right angle USB-C connector. Yeah. Because of the way that the power gets set in. Sort of a... You could remix this whole bottom if you all wanted to have these ports here closer to the wall. Any particular reason why you wanted it in the middle? So if I rotate it this way, I don't... No, no, no. If you just push this over all the way and then made some holes there, that would work, I guess. Hmm. It would crash into this. Yeah, I wouldn't have the other standoff, but I guess I could add one here. I mean... You all would have to really tweak it, but it seemed like this is the easiest way to have... Compromising when you're designing is like, what do I want to have access to? You really want to have access to the USB port. You're going to have this plugged into the wall, so that's why we made this extra decision to just have this right angle USB-C. My use case is for an Octopi rig, so you can see here that the HDMI port will be totally in the way. So I... I SSH it up. You made it so you can completely redesign this piece. A lot of the time you'll see people just redesign one piece of our project, and that's a big tip for folks. When you're designing, make sure the main piece that has the main motherboard, pie, microcontroller, make sure that is modular, and that is a really good thing, because I see folks wanting to use a different type of pie. What are the orange skinned, onion skinned, and banana pies and all that sort of stuff. So you can do it, you just need to fashion your own bottom. Or just the framing, actually, like we did for the Pico. Right. And what's cool about the Pico in which we will get to it, it's the exact same mounting holes as the pie. It's just an additional frame. The frame or the pie is mounted with the M25 8mm long screws. And here's what the Pico version looks like. So those are the exact same mounting holes for the pie, just this little extra adapter fits, adapts it. And that gives you that USB-C port. But yeah, you can redesign this piece if you want more access to the ports. But just be aware that these four corners might need to be shuffled a little bit. But you have complete access to the Infusion or whatever app you want to use. And that is kind of a gist of it, yeah. Yeah, it's just a very time-consuming thing. It's definitely challenging getting everything sorted up in the correct order. Then building all of the wires, it makes you wish that we carried some sort of single-ground wire that's split it off into five different other grounds. Because there's a couple of boards like that. Like the RP2040, where we only have one ground. It's like, ah, I need to hook up buttons and switches. But plenty of room inside the case for fans, more sensors. You could stack several pies if you wanted to in there, I suppose. You definitely could, yeah, you're right. What are your ideas, folks? Let us know in the comments. It's pretty light, too. It doesn't weigh much. Right, it was a strike saying, oh, it's scary soldering those parts together. Yes, it was definitely scary. The backpack and the driver? It's like, is this the correct way? Is it my mounting clearance is going to work? All right, cool. All the files are available to download. Check out the video and all that good stuff. Let's go ahead and jump into this week's project. All right, this was last week. Now let's jump into this week. All right, so there was, I think it was on... Yeah, some premise to the project? No, I think it was posted on April Fool's. So Lamar thought this was a joke from Segway. So Segway thought it would be cool if kids could make their e-bikes sound like they have an engine, like a Harley or a V12 or V8 engine. So this is a real product for Segways. They're advertising it for the Segways and it gives you an engine sound. Now this sounds silly unless you actually take walks and you're around your neighborhood and notice that all the kids are on scooters. You can't hear them. It's silent. And that happened to us. I'm walking my dog. I'm pushing my kid in his stroller and this daddy and daughter come right behind us. You can't do that when you have a dog. That was going to jump on you, like jump kick you. Yeah, no bell. You can't sneak up on someone who has, you know, they're pushing their kid. They have their dog. Their dog is going to jump kick your ass off that scooter. So having audible alerts that there's somebody coming up is definitely a thing. When we back up in our car, our car makes a noise. You hear all the UPS trucks when they're backing up. They have beeping noises. So we thought that'd be a useful thing. Although it's a silly kind of concept to make your electric vehicle sound like it's a gas powered one. That's hilarious, right? Yeah. But you don't have to use an engine. You can have a spaceship, you know, a sound effect. You can have the Jaxon. Right. A whirling sound. So this is a real product. You can get it for $150. And we're like, well, we can do this with somebody, you know, a cheap circuit python microcontroller and a speaker and a really good high quality amp. So we came up with this thing. You want to turn it on and demo it for me? Oh yeah, yeah, yeah. So that's the little box that contains a 20 millimeter speaker. Hold on, let me extend this. Yeah. So nice little box that self contains a 20 millimeter speaker inside. You got the three arcade, oh, sorry, 40 millimeter speaker, three arcade buttons and you're on and off latch. And of course, all circuit python powered. So the thing that Lamar wanted to demonstrate here is the audio looping capabilities of circuit python. So mixing, audio mixing and looping. So it's playing a sound effect of the engine that is idle. But if you get up close to someone, if they still didn't hear you. Yeah, so definitely nice way to alert someone that you're coming up with an air horn. Or whatever, maybe a laser bolt. So whatever you like. So we figured three buttons was okay. Arcade buttons are so fun to press. Yeah, one of the funny things with our arcade button. Yeah, one of the funny things with that segue video, you have these tiny little buttons and the dude has like this, you know, the gloves on. It's like, how do you? So you can mount this in different ways. The reason why it's this size is because when you're working with arcade buttons, unfortunately, you have giant things to accommodate. You can actually show how. This is you. This is all you got. I didn't sign anything. So you can see there the just to make it make the quick connects so you can easily again be modular because it's kind of a swap out my colors. Exactly. Or I need to fix a swap out a board that isn't available. So you can see there the the height is just big enough to barely fit everything in there with just a little bit of wiggle room. There's a battery. There's a 200 to 2200 million lipo battery. It's the strong one. So it's not like soft or anything. It's a nice rigid one. But I did make it soft. I added a little ninja flex bumper. But you could use a different battery, whatever will fit in there. And the feather RP 2040 is the hero board for this. It's running circuit Python and it has USB charging for the battery. So you can charge the battery over USB. As soon as you plug in to USB, you have access to the circuit Python USB drive. It's like a flash drive. So you can just drag and drop the way files. Or you can remix it to do MP3 because we have MP3 functionality as well. We went with waves just because they're kind of easier and a little bit higher quality. So we went with wave files. And the other thing here is that it's using an amplifier that's doing high quality audio over I2S. I think this is the first project that we've used it. This is the first project we've done. I2S audio and Lamar really wanted to showcase high quality audio, audio mixing, audio looping, and all in circuit Python with drag and drop capability. It's super awesome, really good quality too. This is the special I was talking about. Cool. How it's nice and flat. You can go in there and like scrub all of the zits off. But I like the plastic part here to go in there and pry things off. So you've got a speaker grill going on there. These speakers are great. They're 40 millimeter in diameter. And I believe they're about three watts. Yes. Maybe more. That sounds louder than three watts. They're really cool. The case itself really helps with amplifying the audio. So it's a really good acoustic case. Yes. Really neat designs that went into even holding in the case. So there is a taper that is going on the cut out for this. So it gets smaller. So the front is able to fit in there. But as it goes deeper down in there, it is not allowed to because of the taper on there, which gives you room to mount or press fit the speaker girl on there. And then on the case, there's this nice little stopper right here. So when it slides in, it holds it into place like that. So a very nice way to mount speaker without having any like something that's like grabbing onto it. It's just pretty much exactly. So first time that we've done a speaker mount in this way. And then the same thing with the grill too. And yeah, you have nice little cushions on here that keep it from making like that vibration noise. So nice little way to incorporate this into anything that needs the 40 millimeter or any speaker mounted in that way. Yes. What else can we talk about? And then real quick comment from Hem on Discord saying, yeah, accelerometer would be an awesome addition. Automatic reverses and braying noises. Yes, Lamar did want that. But for time sake, she wanted to keep it really simple. Yeah, she omitted it and said, yeah, that's fine. Just do it without. It could definitely be something that could be added on there. There is room for additional brackets to be mounted on the inside. Yep. Okay, so the learn guide. All of the parts are pretty much in stock, which is great. So you've got the Feather RP2040. It's the hero of it. That one's in stock. And then the amplifier is the max. Not just 38, 35, 3, 57A. And it's an I squared C. It's a mono amp, but it works out for this one. You really don't need to speak for this one is enough. It is four ohms, three watts, the speaker here. It's a pretty nice one. And the arcade buttons, we have a series of arcade buttons, a 30 millimeter is kind of your standard size for an arcade button. Where did you get these from? Because people are going to want to know. I love these colors. Yeah, I got these from Amazon. Shwana. Shwana is the manufacturer of these type of buttons. They're like the Street Fighter arcade buttons. Y'all can get those from wherever, but yeah, they have various colors, green means and blues and all sorts. But the 30 millimeters, which you want to get. And yeah, I like these just because they have simple colors. We don't stock them, but we do stock these. These nice ones that are modular. You can change out the caps and stuff. We have them in different colors, I believe as well. Yeah. Okay, this would work. Yeah. This one has a built-in LED. You don't really need the LED. We're not using LEDs in this one. No. But yeah. I mean, it'd be nice if you're doing some night writing, but then again, like some of the scooters have like LEDs built into them now. They do. So that's the main products that we need for the on-off. We have this on-off latching button. We have a couple of those. It just looks better than a toggle switch in our opinion. So that's what we want with this one. And that's what we had on hand. We're not using the LED, but you have the LED as an option. Absolutely can. Yeah. We have several of those. You can use one of the metal ones if you want. We don't have any square ones, huh? We need to pick some of those up just so we have them on hand. Yeah, there's triangle ones too. Oh yeah. Oh man. The triangle one probably would have fit better with the shape. Yeah. It's almost triangle. Yeah. But you'll be wary of them because some of them have really long profiles. Yeah. That might affect the case. I'm looking at that switch on the bottom but never mind. Yeah. And these are 16 millimeters, so not 30. So you won't be aware of that. Okay. So we had a little chat about buttons. All the parts are pretty much the same. You got the speaker, sorry, the battery. Yep. You got the chargeable over USB with any feather. Even the Ninja Flex filament there for building out the little bumper for the cylindrical battery. Yeah. Cool, cool. And then like what I was saying here, here's the link to where you can get the M3 screws and the M3 by 8 millimeter long. Six of the 2.5 by 2 millimeter long and one M3 threaded nut. Yeah. Metal screws please. Cool. So your diagram shows all the buttons are wiring up to some of the digital pins to get I2S. We're using the RX and TX, right? And one of the digital pins as well. And then voltage and ground. So that is how it's working. Did you use a screw block terminal for this thing? Yes, I did. Okay, cool. I didn't really need to since I have a JST connection male and female on each end of the speaker. You are absolutely going to need that because of the way you need to assemble the case. Okay. And that's really the top reason why we make everything modular for assembly. Okay, with any SergerPython board, you want to make sure you have the latest version of SergerPython as the dev team does a great job of pushing out updates to SergerPython. So let's just walk you through installing SergerPython on the R32040 feather. When it comes to the code, you can just download the project bundle, which includes the WAV files and all the code and libraries ready to go. So you can just drag and drop that whole folder into your USB SergerPython drive. A couple comments here. So this was written by John Park and Todd. Todd Bot? Todd Bot. They both collaborated on this. This is actually just a little bit of a remix of John and Todd's breakbeat breadboard project. So the only difference here is that we're using the I2S audio. So here you can see audio equals audio bus IO, I2S out. And then we are signaling these pins. So if you're using a different board from my controller, you want to update the pins here for doing TRX or TXRX and a digital pin. Right here is the list of WAV files. So you can add these. We've put in little comments here. So the engine sound effect is the fourth one in the list. That's important down in the loop. We'll show you why. You want to be wary of the fourth list. The fourth audio in this list is what is being looped. So that's why we label it as such. And then the keypad library is being used to do event based keys. So that it's really, really nice and responsive. So you can do like rapid. You could literally do like John and Todd did a musical project with this where you're literally triggering and if there's no latency. So it's really, really fast. So that's why we're using the keypad library. But in the loop, you'll see that mixer voice three level one. This is what's making the looping sound. So if you wanted to change the order of your WAV file, like where it is in the list, you just want to update this. You remember zero is a number. So this is really the fourth one. So zero, one, two and three. Three is actually the fourth one in the list. But that's really all you need to know. We didn't have to mess around with any of this stuff because all this is handling the event for when a button is pressed or not. But yeah, that's basically it. It's super easy to modify and remix it. The audio mixer here is what's kind of establishing the mixing of the WAV files together. You'll just want to be aware of the sample rate of your WAV file. So you just want to make sure it's 22 kHz. I like to use Apple Music to do the... Apple Music app has a nice wave converted with all the settings. You want to make it mono, not stereo. And if you try to just play any WAV file, the Mu editor in the serial console will actually tell you, hey, this isn't the right bit rate for your WAV. So you'll just want to be aware of that. But because this is a project bundle, you don't have to worry about that because the audio files are ready to go. So you can just get it running right away. Speaking of audio files, yes, super easy to swap out. We have Andy Calloway suggesting some TARDIS sounds. Redo strikes suggesting some Star Wars sounds. Yeah, we really wanted to do spacey stuff, but we really ran out of time. We don't have the ability to kind of share and distribute copy written sound effects. So we're not able to do that, but we know folks can rip their own audio from YouTube and wherever. So we encourage you to do that, but we just couldn't share. The files that we're using are all from freesound.org. And that way it's a rule free thing. We don't get in trouble for distributing them. Yeah, sounds so cool. Moving on to, I think, the assembly. Oh, just real quick. Yeah, this is what your USB drive looks like when you plug in your feather up between 40. You got your code, your library. You're only using the bus device library and the audio libraries are all built into the board. And then your WAV folder has all your WAVs. So just make sure the name of the file is also the name of the file in the code. That's what I was about to say. If you don't want to mess with the code, just name it the exact same thing. Yeah, sure. Cool. Idle is the engine sound effect because it's Idle. Cool. Moving on to three printing. Unfortunately, this is another long print. I believe it takes about nine hours to print just the button side case. What I'm listing here, all of the settings you're going to need to print pretty standard, except for the supports just angle 45 degrees or 40 degrees. It's important to know how... So to attach this to a bike frame, you're going to want to measure your bike frame and then see if our bracket... Modified the bracket. Yeah. We have several... If you're on the top of your head know what the diameter is. So this one's 24 millimeters. I should link to the one that Eva made, the bike project. What was the... The clue I made, I think three different bracket sizes. Okay. This... It's the same design. So I'll link that in there. But we have like a 30 millimeter one. We have a 24 and some other sizes. Yeah, this could be a good opportunity for folks to make their own. Like I could see them making like a Velcro holes, a zip tie holes. That's what I should have done. That way you can... Yeah. Whatever. But it was just a lot more easier. Yeah. Just punch holes into the... Into the back... Existing bracket. Lid. And then, yeah. Okay. I don't see them here. You can go over... Yeah. Yeah. So go over the design and some... Sorry. Yeah. So the M25 screws go through here. And then just attach to the bracket here. And then we have a... What is it? Yeah. That's a cap nut. Cavity for the M3. Yeah. Okay. And then this... Even though it sounds like it's breaking. You might want to use PETG or something. I would use PETG. I did... So this is 1.5 millimeters. If I make it any thicker, it breaks right away. It makes it just enough flexibility. To open it, yeah. Yeah. Okay. When you're putting it over the... The frame. The frame. And it only does that noise when you first... When it's brand new. That's funny. Yeah. After that, it's nice and sturdy. We're going over bumps and it holds on good. Cool. Yeah. You have another one here too. I suggest doing two. Yeah. So add another bracket on there as well. And the only reason I didn't show it was because it goes underneath the feather. Before mounting the feather, you would have to attach the brackets. But for showing assembly, you know, I can't have this chilling on there like that. So you had a Pico and you wanted to use it with a Pico RP2040. You would want to remix this whole piece because these are mounting holes for a feather. So what's cool is that you can use any feather. Yeah. So you want Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. You can add that feather here. But these holes are particularly for the feather. And you would just remix this piece if you wanted the Pico RP2040. Or a Teensie or an Arduino Nano Micro Pro Mini Plus. Moving on to Ninja Flex Bumper. We're using the 95A filament Cheetah 230IC for the... I'm just now realizing the time for the heat. You don't really need this, but you have it because... It's nice because the way that it is mounted in the case that there's wiring and there's a board that it's sitting right on top of. So it's nice to have some sort of protection on there. Okay. Cool. Some more support settings. Support settings for... The case. The case, yeah. Okay. All right. Moving on to assembly. Yeah, what would you do first? You have to do the brackets for them, unfortunately, because then you can't get them after you've mounted the feather, especially. Right. I got you. That's right on the bottom of that. For the placement of the bracket. So it's steady and is level when you're attaching it to the bracket. A lot of wire sharing going on this week. Yeah. Another one of these ground... One ground splitting off into five, four different ones. So these are quick connects for arcades. They have these spade connector bits that just press fit into the terminals of the arcade buttons. So these are really nice. The other end has like a JST XH connector. You just chop this off and add this to it. Yeah. Cool. Mounted with the M2.5 by six millimeter long screws for both boards there. The amplifier has a bit of this ribbon gable. It kind of keeps the wires bundled together. Yeah. So it looks neat. Definitely want to have all that nice and bundled, especially since, as you see, later on the wires are going to just go all over the place. Yes, they are. We're going to run through this, I guess, right? The wires go through. They connect right into the thing. The lid slides right into the built-in rails onto the main bucket case. Yeah, that's cool. Let's go how that works. And assemble your bumper into the cylindrical battery and amounts right on top of the board. Plug in your push button and just neatly bundle all the wires on the inside. I'd recommend shortening them, but then you don't have slacks. Yeah, that is the... Yeah. Yep. Can't do that. And then, yeah, soldering on the GST male on the speaker side and the female on the terminal block on the amplifier. Those connect together, press fits into the little speaker, grill cavity like I showed earlier, press fits right on top. And then you just attach that with an M3 screw onto the bracket and the cap nut. Cool. That's pretty much it. Yay. That's a simple way to have some nice little alerts when you're driving around in your silent mobile vehicle. Yeah, right. Yeah, this could be great for accessibility projects as well. Maybe you want to add this to a wheelchair or something. Hello. Why? Yeah, I mean, this could be for... A prop vehicle? Uh-huh. Or, like you were saying, accessibility, like it talks for you. You know, we're in a hospital setting where you can mount this to the bed and you can help water, you know. Traffic lights. Traffic lights, yeah. And this is pretty much the smallest that I could get it with, you know, modularity of having the 30 millimeter arcade buttons. But, yeah, nice little portable speaker on the go. Easy to program because you can easily pop out. Good job of playing for folks, I think. Yeah, super easy to get in there to reprogram the USB and charge the battery. It's all just USB-C. So, yeah, nice little way to have a portable sound machine. All right. Well, that is this week's project. We will do... And that's it? Yeah. I'm not going to do any prototype or... No, we're done. We're done, sorry folks. We will do that next time. Too many projects. Yeah. Even next week it's going to be like, oh no. Well, they're really cool projects. But that's it. We're going to balance the time lapse. So, this week's time lapse, let's do that. Oh, I thought we were going to bounce now. No, we can do time lapse. Okay. Talk about conchue. This week. We are serving conchue. No, we're not. We do not serve conchue. Conchue's bad. Yeah, so what the comments was, why does this look different than it was printed? Yeah, this is cool. Because I wanted to show what it looks like when it's printed. Otherwise, if I show you how I actually printed, you would see nothing because you would just see a block of support, so that's one of the main reasons I did that. Yeah, so cool technique is to split conchue in half and print double halves and glue it together. You don't have to do that. It doesn't look good. But yeah, this is the marble PLA filament, which looks really good for statues. So definitely check out that marble filament. Just type in marble PLA in Amazon or wherever. Look at the detail. Yeah, it's pretty good. Look at this guy. It's so detailed. I want to make a cavity and put a strip of bacon inside there. Where did we see that? I don't know. But that'd be funny. It's like a bacon in her core and you can eat it. It's like eating a mummy. But yeah, great tip for avoiding any supports, right? This is great. So what's up with the layer lines? Oh, it's... Yeah, I mean, when you glue it, you would definitely see the split down the middle. Again, this was just so you could actually see something while it's time-lapse instead of just a block printing. Let me pull up the Thingiverse page by Hickory Hill. Hickory Hill has already designed... I forgot the alligator lady's name. Amit. Amit? Yeah. So that one is now up. Yeah, look at the weathering on this. It's fantastic. Yeah, yeah. Glad you pulled it up. Forget about that. Look how good it looks when you weather it. It has a couple of minks too. So again, this is from Hickory Hill and Thingiverse. The free download from Moon Knight. Okay, so this is from this Disney Plus TV show that's fairly new. It's called Moon Night. This is from episode three. It was sculpted. We're not sure any other details like how they sculpted it or whatever. She listed it. That's fine. Here are some minks. A lot of people are making it. Resin, golds. That's a cool design. It's a cool design. Oh, glow-in-the-dark. Dang it. Look at this one. This is my favorite one. Look at that. This is Restolium paint. I want to try this. I always like looking at people's minks. You can find some tips. How did you post this one? It's so good. This is a major thing. I painted it with Australian multi-colored textured paint and desert bisque flavor. Wow. That's amazing. Yeah, I don't think they sanded it. Yeah, that looks so freaking good. Yeah. Cool tip, right? Yeah. I wonder if that's what they did on the movie set. Right. They just print it and then just spray it with Restolium. It looks just like their countertop. Wow. It does. Isn't it? Or is that like the overspray? Oh, my God. Yeah. But anyway, shout out to the creative hill. Look at the designs. The Amit one looks just as good. Oh, on the profile? Yeah. The hill. Two designs. Look at Amit. Oh, wow. Oh, I like the cracks and all that. That looks fantastic. Alligator head. And that's Shunti from the episode. Oh, we haven't seen it. Did we? That was last week's. Oh, yeah. Their episode came out today. We'll see who the hippo lady is today. I think there's a split in half. Yeah. So they try to minimize how many supports are going on. But again, I don't want to glue anything now. This is a good tip when you have two printers. You can print both at the same time. But do you have both of the same filament colors? Oh, you've raised an interesting dilemma. All right, folks. That's this week's community makes. Check it out. We'll have to catch up on some of the other makes next week as we have run out of time. We're going to host show and tell this week. So we hope to see you there. We'll drop in a link to the stream yard. So we'll be doing that. And then Lamar and Phil will be doing Ask Engineer tonight at 8 p.m. eastern time. Exciting. Yeah. John Parker will return next week. He's going to be out tomorrow. And then FOMI Guy, I believe, is still doing this week. Every Friday, 2 p.m. Pacific time. Make sure. 4, 5 p.m. eastern. Yeah, make sure to catch FOMI Guy on his personal YouTube too. He's always streaming. So definitely a good time to watch. Cool. Well, don't forget. Cubes. Cubes are fun. That's all I got. I don't know any of this much stuff. Thank you everybody for supporting Adafruit. We're very thankful everybody's able to help out. Good luck on all your Maker endeavors. Hope to see you tonight. Until then, Lightning Bolts. Make a great day. See you next week. Later night. Yeah. Adios.