 All right guys, so on today's vlog, I wanted to do something that you guys have been asking for for a little while. It's a seamless layered haircut. So what that really means to me is it's a 90 degree haircut, classic haircut from beauty school, but we're going to go a little bit more modern with it. So we're going to follow the head shape. That's what's going to make it seamless because there'll be no weight lines within the haircut. This is our end result. So you can see there's a ton of layers in this haircut, but it lays nice and soft. You can't see any of the layers throughout the haircut. We went through. We cleaned up the perimeter dry. So there's a lot of cool techniques in this video. So hope you guys like it. Let me know in the comments below. Here we go with our step by step. Thanks. All right guys, so this is my standard sectioning breakdown for following the head shape and also all the different curves in the head. So we're going to go straight down the center, all the way down to the occipital bone, high occipital bone, and then down to behind the ear, following that occipital bone over. Then we just take out the parietal ridge. So it gives us quite a few different rectangles that will really focus on the different curves of the head. So now I'm going to go through a nice solid blunt horizontal line at 0 degrees elevation to begin the haircut. What this is going to do is give me a nice strong baseline for the 90 degree haircut that we're going to go through and create. So just check in the lengths and make sure that we're good before we continue on the rest of the cut. Now I'm going to take vertical sections. So you're going to see I'm putting my elbow in the air. This isn't necessarily always the best thing to do because once your elbow is in the air it's hard to stay consistent with elevation. But that's why I have the head tilted so far forward so that I'm not really stretching myself too far. You got to remember that that guest head moves. So just get the guest head in the right position to keep you as comfortable as possible during the haircut so that you stay as consistent as possible. So just working through, well you'll notice I'll comb several times. So I'll take it at one angle then I'll shift it up a little bit. I'm following that head shape around. I think there's so many different curves in the head. We're working on a curved surface so every inch that I move it creates a different angle on the haircut. So you need to be shifting your arm up and following that head shape through. Now I'm not working with any over direction so everything's coming straight out from the head. I'm getting my guide from that previously cut section and just working up the head shape. The whole key is to create a completely round sphere over the top of the head. So whether I'm cutting vertical and working up the head shape or working vertical or horizontal across the head shape I want to make sure that my motion is directly out from the head at all times. That's what makes this such a difficult haircut and why they probably make it a state board cosmetology haircut is because you really have to stay consistent with every part of the three-dimensional object that you're cutting or the shape that you're cutting. So just working through, notice again that I just keep combing. I keep elevating it all the way up the head shape. Now I'm not saying that this is the standard. I don't really remember exactly the sectioning for the state board. I believe it was only four sections. This is definitely more than that. So this is not a video to help you pass that state board test but it is a video to help you with technique and following the head shape. So a lot of you guys requested you wanted to see seamless layers. So the way that you see seamless layers is to make sure that you stay on that 90-degree pattern up the head shape. A lot of people start to drop their elbow, start to drop their elevation, so they end up with that heavy ledge around the top layer of the haircut and that's why it doesn't look seamless like you guys are talking about. So just going through you're going to notice that look at my finger angle compared to the head shape. So I'm working right around the crown area and my finger angle is exactly following what the head shape looks like. So as I shift through you'll notice that I also hold the scissor differently when I get this high with the elevation. I used to kink my wrist a lot when I first started cutting hair and even when I first started making videos when you look back at some of the videos I would kink my wrist a lot. Once now just like that actually. So still working on that habit. As I go through you'll notice that in my brain I try to go off of autopilot and shift my wrist and you'll see it happen a lot to just make sure that I'm not bending my wrist so much as I'm cutting. Alright. So right there you can see how my wrist straightened out and I just used my thumb halfway in the scissor to do my cutting. So again over direction straight out from the head working that you want to make sure that you don't overdrag too far because that's going to totally throw off the entire shape because think about if I were to overdrag this back and push more weight and length forward then the rest of the haircut is going to be messed up because I pushed that weight forward so my guide is going to get longer and longer so then all of a sudden you have one side of the haircut longer than the other one. Another thing I noticed about this haircut when I was filming it is how many times I look up because I'm filming this by myself so I'm constantly looking at the camera to make sure when I'm doing a longer haircut that my hands are in the frame of the camera so this was an extra difficult haircut for me because it's you have to stay so precise with where you're over directing how you're elevating the hair and then also is your hand in frame which makes it you know a little bit more difficult but just working through you could take it like pie-shaped sections throughout the crown area just to make sure that I'm not because if you keep taking vertical sections sometimes you want to follow those vertical sections so just working that pie-shaped section coming straight out from where it lives. Another thing I noticed that I think this is a good thing about filming yourself cutting hair but that I I really take strong parting so on both sides of the section so it's not like I'm just scooping up hair and pulling it to a guide which is made up of a lot of different parts of the head I really section off I comb one side and then I comb the other side to make sure I get nice clean partings so that I get a nice clean guideline I think a lot of people will throw together a lot of hair and it diffuses your guideline so then you get lost in the haircut but then you maybe you're running behind in the salon and then you just go ahead and cut it and then you don't get the result that you wanted you want to make sure that if you stay clean with everything it may seem like it takes longer but you never have to go back and fix your mistakes so just try to stay really clean with all of your sections. Alright so now moving into the side panel of the haircut I'm going to take my guide from the previously cut section so all of that should be at 90 degrees if you're not seeing that 90 degree angle then I would definitely go back and check and figure out what happened so I just use that 90 degree angle and I follow it up the head shape so again this is going to be about three different combs throughout the section I don't even know if combs is a word but whatever so we're going through and I'm cutting and just combing shifting up taking off every one of those little corners those little corners that you see in that section if you don't go through and elevate all the way through or what are going to be the wait line that you're going to see in the haircut and that's why you don't get a seamless layer haircut or why you get heavy parts of the cut that you're working on again this is just straight out from the head so no over direction within this part of the haircut I know this is like a really standard haircut that you do learn in school and some of you guys have been doing here for 20 30 years some of you guys are just beginning what I would say to really take from this cut and why I wanted to do it was because first off you guys were asking for a seamless layer cut and I don't know if you realize that a 90 degree cut is that but also as you're working through just really understanding how much head shape plays a role in what your layers are going to look like so it really has nothing to do when when we talk about some people learn in school that the angles are based on a flat plane you're not working on a flat plane you're working on a round surface so you really need to take every angle into consideration as you're moving up your head shape now we're working through the top so I just take out one of those rectangle sections and I'm going to work my way all the way up now pretty much straight up from the head shape again that's still 90 degrees to me in school you learn maybe that's 180 degrees that would be when they're talking about working on a flat plane but when I'm talking about working straight off of a head shape that's creating a 90 degree angle to me so just working up the head shape creating that 90 degrees and creating those soft layers throughout the head now the cool part about this is if you go through this whole haircut you take these small sections you follow your guideline what you're gonna see at the end of the cut when I go to connect this whole thing together is that all of these layers that I'm creating now are gonna match up perfectly to the other side and that's how you know that you stayed consistent throughout the whole haircut it's kind of one of those things for me I love getting through a haircut and then checking it and and seeing that it's as perfect as I could have gotten it you know that doesn't always happen so you know it's it's a cool feeling to know that you stayed consistent throughout an entire haircut so just shifting now we're gonna go through the other side so the one thing I want to talk about on this you'll notice that one half of the side so on the right side of the haircut I'm behind the head cutting and then on the left hand side of the haircut I'm in front of the head cutting the reason for that is it goes back to the guideline thing that I talked about in every video so if you haven't heard that spiel yet it's on every single video that I do but you want to push the new hair to the guideline so my guideline is coming from the back so I'm combing the hair from the front pushing it to the guide in the back I never want to pull my guide to the new hair because if I pull my guide from where it lives it becomes shorter and I will cut the hair shorter you'll end up with a whole entire side of the haircut shorter so just standing in front of the head keeps me consistent with my combing you can see on the top section right there I'm taking these sections up and they match perfectly to the other side so I kind of follow through the other side just to check it so you can see as I'm combing comb again and then I comb one more time to connect those two sides together so that is that part of the haircut now we're gonna go through iron it out with our vibra straight iron worked it through for some reason I didn't film the blow dry but the blow dry was a standard flat wrap so you didn't miss anything there and if you want to know about that blow dry it's definitely on a lot of the other videos that I've done so you can see the 90 degree haircut doesn't leave the the most flattering outer perimeter so what I'm going to do is go through and iron out the hair and then I'm going to go around and clean up the perimeter create the perimeter line that I'm looking for so even though I did cut the base at the very beginning of the haircut that was really just to create a guideline now I'm going to go through and lighten up and create the perimeter that I was looking for in in the end result of the haircut so finishing up with some point cutting working all the way around the crown area really I'm just point cutting the top area of the haircut because again we're working on creating soft layers throughout the cut so just taking out a little bit of that density not changing the line whatsoever so I'm keeping the the scissor very vertical this is my Mizutani DB20 scissor actually no this is the Mizutani puff-in I use the DB20 for all the precision cutting now I'm using my dry cutting scissor which is the Mizutani puff-in 5.5 inch which I really love a short blade on my dry cutting scissor and I just go through and soften that now I'm going to use the puff-in and I'm going to create this angle so you could see that angle that the 90-degree haircut created naturally but now I want to go through and just soften it around the face just connecting those lines together so I saw the point where I wanted to connect it in the back so I just start using the tip of the scissor going through and connecting those two points same thing in the back so where it's soft from the layering I wanted to have a little bit more of a blunt line I love having nice solid blunt lines in a haircut as long as it doesn't look super heavy so just go through using the point of the scissor cleaning up that line to finish it off and then the last thing I'm gonna do is take my clipper this is the Andis Supra I think it's ZR scissor that they sent to us but I love it it's cordless so I use it a lot just for cleaning up so I cut the entire perimeter with the scissor but sometimes when I want a nice blunt line I use the clipper just to fine-tune it a bit and create those nice hard lines throughout the outer perimeter of the haircut all right so that's the end result guys you can see there's seamless layers no lines great strong line in the outer perimeter that we created let me know in the comments below how long it's been since you guys have done a 90 degree haircut hope you enjoyed this one alright guys if you like our 90 degree haircut make sure you hit that like button hit the share button as always I appreciate all of your guys's support check out everything we have to offer on free salon education calm thanks for watching guys I'll see you on the next video bye