 Section 38 of the Book of Household Management This is a LibriVocs recording. All LibriVocs recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVoc.org. The Book of Household Management by Isabella Beaton Recipes Chapter 17 Part 2 The following is from Morton's Cyclopedia of Agriculture and will be found fully worthy of the high character of that publication. Curing of Hams and Bacon 822 The carcass of the hog, after hanging overnight to cool, is laid on a strong bench or stool and the head is separated from the body at the neck, close behind the ears. The feet and also the internal fat are removed. The carcass is nest divided into two sides in the following manner. The ribs are divided about an inch from the spine on each side and the spine, with the ends of the ribs attached together with the internal flesh between it and the kidneys and also the flesh above it throughout the whole length of the sides, are removed. The portion of the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge. The breadth of the interior consisting of the breadth of the spine and about an inch of the ribs on each side are finished to about half an inch at the exterior or skin along the back. The breast bone and also the first anterior rib are also dissected from the side. Sometimes the whole ribs are removed, but this for reasons afterwards to be noticed is a very bad practice. When the hams are cured separately from the sides, which is generally the case, they are cut out so as to include the hog bone in a similar manner to the London mode of cutting a haunch of mutton. The carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted. Which process, in large caring establishments, is usually as follows. The skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of 50 parts by weight of salt and one part of salt peter in powder and incised parts of the ham or flitch and the inside of the flitch covered with the same. The salted bacon in pairs of flitches with the insides to each other is piled one pair of flitches above another on benches slightly inclined and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey the brine to receivers in the floor of the salting house to be afterward used for pickling pork for navy purposes. In this date the bacon remains a fortnote which is sufficient for flitches cut from hogs of a carcass weight less than 15 stone 14 pounds to the stone. Flitches of a larger size, at the expiration of that time are wiped dry and reversed in their place in the pile having at the same time about half the first quantity of fresh dry common salt sprinkled over the inside and incised parts after which they remain on the benches for another week. Hams being thicker than flitches will require when less than 20 pounds weight three weeks and when above that weight four weeks to remain on the above described process. The next and last process in the preparation of hams and bacon previous to being sent to market is drying. This is affected by hanging the flitches and hams for two or three weeks in a room heated by stoves or in a smokehouse in which they are exposed for the same length of time to the smoke arising from the slow combustion of the sawdust of oak or other hardwood. The latter mode of completing the curing process has some advantages over the other as by it the meat is subject to the action of creosote a volatile oil produced by the combustion of sawdust which is powerfully antiseptic. The process also furnishing a thin covering of resinous varnish excludes the air not only from the muscle but also from the fat thus effectively preventing the meat from becoming rusted and the principal reason for condemning the practice of removing the ribs from the flitches of pork are that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent in the process of salting and by being more opposed to the action of the air becomes sooner and more extensively rusted notwithstanding its superior efficacy in completing the process of curing the flavour which smoke drying in parts to meat is disliked by many persons and it is therefore by no means the most general mode of drying adopted by mercantile curers. A very impure variety of pyrologinous acid or vinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood is sometimes used on account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which it contains and also to impart the smoke flavour in which later object however the coarse flavour of tar is given rather than that derived from the smoke from combustion of wood A considerable portion of the bacon and ham salted in Ireland is exported from that country packed amongst salt in bales immediately from the salting process without having been in any degree dried In the process of salting above described pork loses from 8-10% of its weight according to the size and quality of the meat and a further diminution of weight to the extent of 5-6% takes place in drying during the first fortnight after being taken out of salt so that the total loss in weight occasioned by the preparation of bacon and ham in a proper state to the market is not less on an average than 15% of the weight of the fresh pork Coloured pigs face a breakfast or luncheon dish 8-2-3 Ingredients 1 pigs face salt for brine 1 gallon of spring water 1 pound of common salt half a handful of chopped juniper berries 6 bruised cloves 2 bay leaves a few sprigs of thyme, basil, sage a quarter of an ounce of salt peter for forced meat half a pound of ham half a pound of bacon 1 teaspoon full of mixed spices pepper to taste quarter of a pound of lard 1 tablespoon full of minced parsley 6 young onions singe the head carefully bone it without breaking the skin and rub it well with salt make the brine by boiling the above ingredients for a quarter of an hour and letting it stand to cool when cold, pour it over the head and let it steep in this for 10 days turning and rubbing it off it then wipe, drain and dry it for the forced meat pound the ham and bacon very finely and mix with these the remaining ingredients taking care that the hole is thoroughly incorporated spread this equally over the head roll it tightly in a cloth and bind it securely with board tape put it into a saucepan with a few meat trimmings and cover it with stock let it simmer gently for 4 hours and be particular that it does not stop boiling the whole time when quite tender, take it up put it between 2 dishes with a heavy weight on top and when cold, remove the cloth and tape it should be sent to table on a napkin or garnished with a piece of deep white paper with a ruch at the top time, 4 hours average cost from 2 shillings to 2 shillings at 6 months seasonable from October to March the wild and domestic hog the domestic hog is the descendant of a race long since banished from this island and it is remarkable that while the tamed animal has been and is kept under surveillance the wild type whence this race sprang has maintained itself in its ancient freedom the fierce denizen of the forest and one of the renowned beasts of the chase whatever doubt may exist is to the true origin of the dog, the horse, the ox and others or as to whether their original race is yet extent or not these doubts do not apply to the domestic hog its wild sauce still exists and is universally recognised like the wolf however, it has been expelled from our island but like that animal it still roams for the vast wooded tracts of Europe and Asia to dress pig's fry a savoury dish 8-2-4 ingredients, 1.5 pounds of pig fry 2 onions, a few sage leaves 3 pounds of potatoes pepper and salt to taste mode put the lean fry at the bottom of a pie dish sprinkle over it some minced sage and onion and a seasoning of pepper and salt slice the potatoes put a layer of these on the seasoning then the fat fry then more seasoning and a layer of potatoes at the top fill the dish with boiling water and bake for 2 hours or rather longer time rather more than 2 hours average cost 6 pounds per pound sufficient for 3 or 4 persons seasonable from October to March to melt lard 8-2-5 melt the inner fat of the pig by putting it in a stone jar and placing this in a saucepan of boiling water previously stripping off the skin let it simmer gently over a bright fire and as it melts pour it carefully from the sediment put it into small jars or bladders for use and keep it in a cool place the fleed or inside fat of the pig before it is melted makes exceedingly light crust and is particularly wholesome it may be preserved a length of time by salting it well and occasionally changing the brine when wanted for use wash and wipe it and it will answer for making into paste as well as fresh lard average cost 10 pence per pound boiled leg of pork 8-2-6 ingredients leg of pork salt mode for boiling choose a small compact well filled leg and rub it well with salt let it remain in a pickle for a week or 10 days turning and rubbing it every day an hour before dressing it put it into cold water for an hour which improves the colour if the pork is purchased ready salted ascertain how long the meat has been in the pickle and soak it accordingly put it into a boiling pot with sufficient cold water to cover it let it gradually come to the boil and remove the scum as it rises simmer it very gently until tender and do not allow it to boil fast or the knuckle will fall to pieces before the middle of the leg is done carrots, turnips or parsnips may be boiled with the pork some of which should be laid around the dish as a garnish and a well made piece pudding is an indispensable accompaniment time a leg of pork weighing 8 pounds 3 hours after the water boils and to be simmered very gently average cost 9 pence per pound sufficient for 7 or 8 persons seasonable from September to March note the liquor in which a leg of pork has been boiled makes excellent pea soup antiquity of the hog the hog has survived changes which have swept multitudes of package-omacious animals from the surface of our earth it still presents the same characteristics both physical and moral which the earliest writers whether sacred or profane have faithfully delineated although the domestic has been more or less modified by long culture yet the wild species remains unaltered in so much that the fossil relics may be identified with the bones of their existing descendants roast griskin of pork 827 ingredients pork a little paladed surge mode as this joint frequently comes to table hard and dry particular care should be taken that it is well basted put it down to a bright fire and flour it about 10 minutes before taking it up sprinkle over some powdered surge make a little gravy in the dripping pan strain it over the meat and serve with a tourine of apple sauce this joint will be done in far less time than when the skin is left on consequently should have the greatest attention that it be not dried up time griskin of pork weighing 6lb 1.5 hours average cost 7 pence per pound sufficient for 5 or 6 persons seasonable from September to March note a spare rib of pork is roasted in the same manner as above and would take 1.5 hours for 1 weighing about 6lb larding 828 ingredients bacon and larding needle mode bacon for larding should be firm and fat and ought to be cured without any salt pita as this reddens white meat lay it onto a table the rind downward trim off any rusty part add in the slices of an equal thickness place the slices one on top of each other and cut them evenly into narrow strips so arranging it that every piece of bacon is of the same size bacon for friccander, poultry and game should be about 2 inches in length and rather more than 1 eighth of an inch in width if for larding fillets of beef or loin of veal the pieces of bacon must be thicker the following recipe of soya is we think very explicit by following the directions here given may be able to lard if not well sufficiently for general use have the friccander trimmed lay it lengthwise upon a clean napkin across your hand forming a kind of bridge with your thumb at the part you are about to commence at then with the point of the larding needle make three distinct lines across half an inch apart run the needle into the third line at the further side of the friccander and bring it out at the first placing one of the lardoons in it draw the needle through leaving out a quarter of an inch of the bacon at each line proceed thus to the end of the row then making another line half an inch distant stick in another row of lardoons bringing them out at the second line leaving the ends of the bacon all the same length make the next row at the same distance bringing the ends out between the lardoons of the first row proceeding in this manner until the whole surface is larded in checkered rows everything else is larded in a similar way and in the case of poultry hold the breast over a charcoal fire for one minute or dip it into boiling water in order to make the flesh firm roast loin of pork 8 to 9 ingredients pork a little salt mode score the skin in strips more than a quarter of an inch apart and place the joint at a good distance from the fire on account of the crackling which would harden before the meat would be heated through were it placed too near if very lean it should be rubbed over with a little salad oil and kept well basted all the time it is at the fire pork should be very thoroughly cooked but not dry and be careful never to send it to the table the least under done is nothing is more unwholesome and disagreeable that underdressed white meats serve with an apple sauce number 363 and a little gravy made in a dripping pan a stuffing of sage and onion may be made separately and baked in a flat dish this method is better than putting it in the meat as many persons have so great an objection to the flavour time a loin of pork weighing 5 pounds about 2 hours allow more time should it be very fat average cost 9 pence per pound sufficient for 5 or 6 persons seasonable from September to March fossil remains at the hog in British Drata the oldest fossil remains at the hog which professor Owen states that he has examined were from fishers in the red crag probably myosin of newborn near Woodbridge Suffolk they are associated with the teeth of an extinct phoenix about the size of a leopard with those of a bear and with the remains of a large service these mammalian remains were found with the ordinary fossils of the red crag they had undergone the same process of trituration and were impregnated with the same colouring matter as the associated bones and teeth of fishers acknowledged to be derived from the regular strata of the red crag these mammaliphiferous beds have been proved by Mr Lyle to be older than the fluvia marine or Norwich crag in which the remains of the mastodon rhinoceros and horse have been discovered and still older than the freshwater Pleistotene deposits from which the remains of the mammoth, rhinoceros etc. are obtained in such abundance I have met says the professor in addition with some satisfactory instance of the association of fossil remains of a species of hog with those of the mammoth in the newer Pleiocene freshwater formations of England to dry pig's cheeks 830 ingredients salt 4 ounces of salt, Peter 2 ounces of bay salt 4 ounces of coarse sugar mode cut out the snout remove the brains and split the head taking off the upper bone to make the jar look good shape rub it well with salt next day take away the brine and salt it again the following day cover the head with salt, Peter add some coarse sugar in the above proportion adding a little common salt let the head be often turned and when it has been in pickle for 10 days smoke it for a week or rather longer time to remain in the pickle 10 days to be smoked one week seasonal should be made from September to March note a pig's cheek or bath chap will take about 2 hours after the water boils pig's liver a savoury and economical dish ingredients the liver and lights of a pig 6 or 7 slices of bacon potatoes 1 large bunch of parsley 2 onions 2 sage leaves pepper and salt to taste a little broth or water mode slice the liver and lights and wash these perfectly clean and parboil the potatoes mince the parsley and sage and chop the onion rather small put the meat, potatoes and bacon into a deep tin dish in alternating layers with a sprinkly of the herbs and the seasoning of pepper and salt between each pour on a little water or broth and bake in a moderately heated oven for 2 hours time 2 hours average cost 1 in 6 months sufficient for 6 or 7 persons seasonable from September to March pig's pettitoes 8 through 2 ingredients a thin slice of bacon 1 onion 1 blade of mace 6 peppercorns 3 or 4 sprigs of thyme 1 pint of gravy pepper and salt to taste thickening of butter and flour mode put the liver, hearts and pettitoes into a stew pan with the bacon, mace, peppercorn thyme, onion and gravy and simmer these gently for a quarter of an hour then take out the heart and liver and mince them very fine keep stewing the feet until quite tender which will be in from 20 minutes to half an hour reckoning from the time they boiled up first then put back the minced liver thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour season with pepper and salt and simmer over a gentle fire for 5 minutes occasionally stirring the contents dish the mince, split the feet and arrange them round alternatively with sippards of toasted bread and pour the gravy in the middle thyme altogether 40 minutes sufficient for 3 or 4 persons seasonable from September to March to pickle pork 8 through 3 ingredients 1 quarter of a pound of salt, peter and salt mode, as pork does not keep long without being salted cut it into pieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold rub the pieces of pork well with salt and put them into a pan with a sprinkling of it between each piece as it melts on the top, stew on more lay a coarse cloth over the pan a board over that and a weight on the board to keep the pork down in the brine as soon as it is salted from there it will continue good for nearly 2 years average cost, 10 pounds per pound for the prime parts seasonable the best time for pickling meat is late in the autumn the universality of the hog of singular circumstance in the domestic history of the hog is the extent of its distribution over the surface of the earth it is found even in insulated places where the inhabitants are semi-barbarous and where the wild species is entirely unknown the South Sea islands for example were found on their discovery to be well stocked with a small black hog and the traditional belief of the people was that these animals were co-evil with the origin of themselves yet they possessed no knowledge of the wild boar or any other animal of the hog kind from which the domestic breed was supposed to be derived in these islands the hog is the principal quadrupole and the fruit of the bread tree is also its principal food although it is also fed with yams, eros and other vegetables this nutritious diet which it has in great abundance is according to Foster the reason of its flesh being so delicious so full of juice and so rich in fat which is not less delicate to the taste to boil pickled pork 834 ingredients, pork and water mode should the pork be very salt let it remain in water about 2 hours before it is dressed put it into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover it let it gradually come to a boil then gently simmer until quite tender allow ample time for it to cook as nothing is more disagreeable than underdone pork and when it boils fast the meat becomes hard this is sometimes served with boiled poultry and roast veal instead of bacon when tender and not over salt it will be found equally good time a piece of pickled pork weighing 2 pounds 1.25 hours 4 pounds rather more than 2 hours average cost 10 pts per pound for the primers parts seasonable at any time the antiquity of the hog by what nation and in what period the hog was reclaimed is involved in the deepest of security so far back as we have any records of history we find notices of this animal and of its flesh being used as a food of man by some nations however its flesh was denounced as unclean and therefore prohibited to be used while by others it was esteemed as a great delicacy by the mosaic law it was forbidden to be eaten by the Jews and the Mohammedans hold it in utter abhorrence Dr. Kitto however says that there does not appear to be any reason in the law of Moses why the hog should be held in such peculiar abomination there seems nothing to have prevented the Jews if they had been so inclined to rear pigs for sale or for the use of the land in the Talimat there are some indications that this was actually done and it was probably for such purposes that the herds of swine mentioned in the New Testament were kept although it is usual to consider that they were kept by the foreign settlers in the land indeed the story which accounts for the peculiar aversion of the Hebrews to the hog assumes that it did not originate until some 130 years before Christ previously some Jews were in the habit of rearing hogs for the purposes indicated pork pies, Warwickshire recipe ingredients for the crust five pounds of lard to have 14 pounds of flour milk and water fulfilling the pies to every three pounds of meat allow one ounce of salt two and a quarter ounces of pepper a small quantity of cayenne one pint of water mode rub into the flour a portion of the lard the remainder put with sufficient milk and water to mix the crust and boil this gently for a quarter of an hour pour it boiling on the flour and knead and beat it till perfectly smooth now raise the crust in either a round or oval form cut up the pork into pieces the size of a nut season it with the above proportion press it compactly into the pie and alternate layers of fat and lean and pour in a small quantity of water lay on the lid cut the edges smoothly round and pinch them together bake in a brick oven which should be slow as the meat is very solid very frequently the inexperienced cook finds much difficulty in raising the crust she should bear in mind that it must not be allowed to get cold or fall immediately to prevent this the operation should be performed as near the fire as possible as considerable dexterity and expertness are necessary to raise the crust with the hand only a glass bottle or small jar may be placed in the middle of the paste and the crust moulded on this but be particular that it is to be kept warm the whole time sufficient the proportions for one pie are one pound of flour and three pounds of meat seasonable from September to March the flesh of swine in hot climates it is observed by Monsieur Sonini that the flesh of swine in hot climates is considered unwholesome and therefore may account for its prescription by the legislators and priests of the east in Egypt, Syria and even the southern parts of Greece although both white and delicate it is so fluffy and surchads with fat it disagrees with the strongest stomachs abstinence from in general was therefore indispensable to health under the burning suns of Egypt and Arabia the Egyptians were permitted to eat it only once a year on the feast of the moon and then they sacrificed a number of these animals to that planet at other seasons should anyone even touch a hog he was obliged immediately to plunge into the river Nile as he stood with his clothes on in order to purify himself in the supposed contamination he had contracted by the touch little raised pork pies 836 ingredients two pounds of flour, half a pound of butter half a pound of mutton suet salt and white pepper to taste four pounds of the neck of pork one dessert spoonful of powdered sage mode well dry the flour, mince the suet and put these with the butter into a saucepan to be made hot and add a little salt when melted mix it up into a stiff paste and put it before the fire with a cloth over it to ready to make up chop the pork into small pieces season it with white pepper salt and powdered sage divide the paste into rather small pieces raise it in a round or oval form fill with the meat and bake in a brick oven these pies will require a fiercer oven than those in the preceding recipe as they are made so much smaller and consequently do not require so soaking a heat time if made small about 1.5 hours seasonable from September to March swine herds of antiquity from the prejudice against the hog amongst the oceans those who tended them formed an isolated class and were esteemed as the outcasts of society however much the flesh of the animal was esteemed by the Greeks and Romans yet the swine herd is not mentioned by either the classic writers or the poets who in ancient Greece and Rome painted rural life we have no descriptions of gods or heroes descending to the occupation of keeping swine the swine herd is never introduced into the idols of theochritus nor has Virgil admitted him into his eclogues the Emmaus of Homer is the only exception that we have of a swine herd meeting with favor in the eyes of a poet of antiquity this may be accounted for on the supposition that the prejudices of the Egyptians relative to this class of men extended to both Greece and Italy and imparted a biased to popular opinion to make sausages author's Oxford recipe 837 ingredients one pound of pork fat and lean without skin or gristle one pound of lean veal one pound of beef suet half a pound of breadcrumbs the rind of half a lemon one small nutmeg six sage leaves one teaspoon full of pepper two teaspoons full of salt half a teaspoon full of savoury half a teaspoon full of marjoram mode chop the pork veal and suet finely together add the breadcrumbs lemon peel which should be well minced and a small nutmeg grated wash and chop the sage leaves very finely add these with the remaining ingredients to the sausage meat and when thoroughly mixed either put the meat into skins or when wanted for table form into little cakes which should be floured and fried average cost for this quantity two shillings and sixpence sufficient for about 30 moderate sized sausages seasonable from October to March the hog in England from time immemorial in England this animal has been esteemed as of the highest importance in the Anglo-Saxon period vast herds of swine were tended by men who watched over their safety and who collected them under shelter at night at that time the flesh of the animal was the staple article of consumption in every family and a large portion of the wealth of the rich freemen of the country consisted of these animals hence it was common to make bequests of swine with lands for their support and to these were attached rights and privileges in connection with their feeding and the extent of woodland to be occupied by a given number was granted in accordance with established rules this is proved by an ancient Saxon grant quoted by Sharon Turner in his history of the Anglo-Saxons where the right of pastureage was conveyed in a deed by the following words I give food for 70 swine in that woody allotment which the country men called or furdantly fried sausages 838 ingredients sausages a small piece of butter mode prick the sausages with a fork this prevents them from bursting and put them in a frying pan with a small piece of butter keep moving the pan about and turn the sausages three or four times in from 10 to 12 minutes they will be sufficiently cooked unless they are very large when a little more time should be allowed for them dish them with or without a piece of toast under them and serve very hot in some countries sausages are boiled and served on toast they should be plunged into boiling water and simmered for about 10 or 12 minutes time 10 to 12 minutes average cost 10 pence per pound seasonable good from September to March note sometimes in close warm weather sausages very soon turn sour to prevent this put them in an oven for a few minutes with a small piece of butter to keep them moist when wanted for table they will not require so long frying the Saxon Swineherd the men employed in herding swine during the Anglo-Saxon period of our history were in general thralls or born slaves of the soil who were assisted by powerful dogs capable even of singly contending with the wolf until his master came along with his spear to the rescue in the Ivanhoe of Sir Walter Scott we have an admirable picture in the character of girth of the Anglo-Saxon Swineherd as we also have his master a large landed proprietor a great proportion of whose wealth consisted of swine and whose rude but plentiful board was liberally supplied with the flesh sausage meat cakes 839 ingredients to every pound of lean pork add three quarters of a pound of fat bacon quarter of an ounce of salt one salt spoon full of pepper quarter of a teaspoon full of grated nutmeg one teaspoon full of minced parsley mode remove from the pork all the gristle, skin and bone and chop it finely with the bacon add the remaining ingredients and carefully mix together pound it well in a mortar make it into convenient sized cakes flour these and fry them a nice brown for about 10 minutes this is a very simple method of making sausage meat an on trial will prove very good it's great recommendation being that it is so easily made time 10 minutes seasonable from March to September to scald a sucking pig 840 put the pig into cold water directly it has killed let it remain for a few minutes then immerse it in a large pan of boiling water for two minutes take it out lay it on a table and pull off the hair as quickly as possible when the skin looks clean make a slit down the belly take out the entrails well clean the nostrils and ears wash the pig in cold water and wipe it thoroughly dry take off the feet at the first joint and loosen and leave sufficient skin to turn neatly over if not to be dressed immediately fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from the air the learned pig that the pig is capable of education is a fact long known to the world and though like the ass naturally stubborn and obstinate that he is equally amenable with other animals to caresses and kindnesses has been shown from very remote time the best modern evidence of his facility however is the instance of the learned pig first exhibited about a century since but which has been continued down to our own time by repeated instances of an animal who will put together all the letters or figures that compose the day month hour and date of the exhibition beside many other unquestioned evidences of memory the instance already given of breaking a sail into a pointer till she became more stangeva than the dog itself though surprising is far less wonderful than that evidence of education where so generally obtuse an animal may be taught not only to spell but couple figures and give dates roast sucking pig 841 ingredients pig, 6 ounces of breadcrumbs 6 sage leaves pepper and salt to taste piece of butter the size of an egg salad, oil or butter to baste with about half a pint of gravy 1 tablespoon full of lemon juice mode a sucking pig to be eaten in perfection should not be more than 3 weeks old and should be dressed the same day as it is killed after preparing the pig for cooking as in the preceding recipe stuff it with finely grated breadcrumbs, minced sage pepper, salt and a piece of butter the size of an egg all of which should be well mixed together and put into the body of the pig sew up the slit neatly and truss the legs back to allow the insides to be roasted and the under part to be crisp put the pig down to a bright clear fire not too near and let it lie until thoroughly dry then have ready some butter tied up in a piece of thin cloth and rub the pig with this in every part keep it well rubbed with the butter the whole of the time it is roasting and do not allow the crackling to become blistered or burned when half done hang a pig iron before the middle part if this is not obtainable use a flat iron to prevent it being scorched and dried up before the ends are done before it is taken from the fire cut off the head and part that and the body down the middle chop the brains and mix them with the stuffing add half a pint of good gravy a tablespoon full of lemon juice and the gravy that flowed from the pig put a little of this on the dish with the pig and the remainder sent to table in a terrain place the pig back to back in the dish with one half of the head on each side and one of the years at each end and send it to table as hot as possible instead of butter many cooks take salad or for basting which makes the crackling crisp and as this is one of the principal things to be considered perhaps it is desirable to use it but be particular that it is very pure or will impart an unpleasant flavour to the meat the brains and stuffing may be stirred into a terrain of melted butter instead of gravy when the latter is not light apple sauce and the old fashioned current sauce are not yet quite obsolete as an accompaniment to roast pig time one and a half to two hours for a small pig average cost five to six shillings sufficient for nine or ten persons seasonable from September to February how roast pig was discovered Charles Lamb who in the early part of this century delighted the reading public by his quaint prose sketches written under the title of The Days of Elia has in his own quiet humorous way devoted one paper to the subject of roast pig and more especially to that luxurious and toothsome dainty known as crackling and shows in a manner peculiarly his own how crackling first came into the world according to this urodyte authority man in the golden age or all events the primitive age ate his pork and bacon raw as indeed he did his beef and mutton unless as Hodebras tells us he was an epicure when he used to make a saddle of his saddle of mutton and after spreading it on his horses back and riding on it for a few hours till thoroughly warmed he sat down to the luxury of a dish cooked to a turn at the epoch of the story however a citizen of some Scythean community had the misfortune to have his hut or that portion of it containing his leftover pigs burnt down in going over the debris on the following day and picking out all the available salvage the proprietor touched something unusually or unexpectedly hot which caused him to shake his hand with great energy and clap the tips of his suffering fingers to his mouth the act was simple and natural but the result was wonderful he rolled his eyes in ecstatic pleasure his frame distended anxious of a celestial odor his nostrils widened and while drawing in deep inspirations of the ravishing perfume he sucked his fingers with a gusto he had never in his most hungry moments conceived clearing away the rubbish from beneath him he at last brought to view the carcass of one of his pigs roasted to death stooping down to examine this curious object and touching its body a fragment of the bird's skin was detached which with a sort of superstitious dread he at length and in a spirit of philosophical inquiry put into his mouth ye gods the felicity he then enjoyed no pen could chronicle then it was that he the world first tasted crackling like a miser with his gold the siren hid his treasure from the prying eyes of the world and feasted in secret more sumptuously than the gods had eaten up all his pig the poor man fell into a melancholy he refused the most tending steak though cooked on the horse's back and turned every half hour after his own favourite recipe he fell in fact from his appetite and was reduced to a shadow till unable longer to endure the torments of memory he hourly suffered he rose one night and secretly set fire to his hut and stored to flesh and manhood finding it impossible to live in future without roast pig he set fire to his house every time his larder became empty till last his neighbours scandalised by the frequency of these incendiary acts brought his conduct before the supreme council of the nation to avert the penalty that awaited him he brought his judges to the smouldering ruins and discovering the secret he invited them to eat which having done with tears of gratitude the august centre embraced him and with an overflowing feeling of ecstasy dedicated a statue to the memory of the man who first instituted roast pork pork carving sucking pig 842 a sucking pig seems at first sight rather an elaborate dish or rather animal to carve but by carefully mastering the details of the business every difficulty will vanish and if a partial failure be at first made yet all embarrassment will quickly disappear on a second trial a sucking pig is usually sent to table in the manner shown in the engraving and also in coloured plain as and the first point to be attended to is to separate the shoulder from the carcass by carrying the knife quickly and neatly around the circular line shown by the figures 1, 2, 3 the shoulder will then easily come away the next step is to take off the leg and this is done in the same way by cutting around this joint in the direction shown by the figures 1, 2, 3 in the same way as the shoulder the ribs then stand fairly open to the knife which should be carried down in the direction of the line 4 to 5 and 2 or 3 helpings will dispose of these the other half of the pig is served of course in the same manner different parts of the pig are variously esteemed some preferring the flesh of the neck others the ribs and others again the shoulders the truth is the whole of a sucking pig is delicious, delicate eating but in carving it the host should consult the various tastes and fancies of his guests keeping the larger joints generally of the body ham 8, 4, 3 in cutting ham the carver must be guided according as he desires to practice economy or have at once fine slices out of the prime part under the first supposition he will commence at the knuckle end and cut off thin slices towards the thick part of the ham to reach the choice of portion the knife which must be very sharp and thin should be carried quite down to the bone in the direction of the line 1 to 2 the slices should be thin and even and always cut down to the bone there are some who like to carve a ham by cutting a hole at the top and then slicing pieces off inside the hole gradually enlarging the circle but we think this is a plan not to be recommended a ham when hot is usually sent to table with a paper ruffle around the knuckle when cold it is shown in the manner shown by coloured plate P leg of pork 8, 4, 4 this joint which is such a favourite one with many people is easy to carve the knife should be carried sharply down to the bone clean through the crackling in the direction of the line 1 to 2 saigo and onion and apple sauce should be sent to table with this dish sometimes the leg of pork is stuffed and the guests should be asked if they will have either or both a frequent plan and we think a good one is now pursued of sending sage and onion to table separately from the joint as it is not everybody to whom the flavour of this stuffing is agreeable note the other dishes of pork do not call for any special remark as to their carving or helping end of section 38 section 39 of the book of household management this is a LibriVox recording or LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org the book of household management by Isabella Beaton chapter 18 general observations on the calf any remarks made on the calf or the lamb should actually be in a measure supplementary to the more copious observations made on the parent stalk of either as the calf at least as far as it is identified with veal is destined to die young to be indeed cut off in its comparative infancy it may at first sight appear of little or no consequence to inquire to what particular variety or breed of the general stalk his saio or dare may belong the great art however in the modern science of husbandry has been to obtain an animal that shall not only have the utmost beauty of form of which the species is capable but at the same time a constitution free from all taint a frame that shall rapidly attain bulk and stature and a disposition so kindly that every quantum of food it takes shall without drawback or procrastination be eliminated into fat and muscle the breed then is a very considerable consequence in determining not only the quality of the meat to the consumer but its commercial value to the breeder and butcher under the artificial system adopted in the raring of domestic cattle and stalk in general to gratify the arbitrary mandates of luxury and fashion we can have veal like lamb at all seasons in the market though the usual time in the metropolis for veal to make its appearance is about the beginning of February the cow goes with young for nine months the question and solicitude she evinces for her offspring is more human in its tenderness, mid-intensity than is displayed by any other animal and her distress when she hears its bleeding and is not allowed to reach it with her distended udders is often painful to witness and when the calf has died or been accidentally killed her grief frequently makes her refuse to give down her milk at such times the breeder has adopted the expedient of flaying the dead carcass and distending the skin with hay lays the effigy before her and then taking advantage of her solicitude milks her while she is caressing the skin with her tongue in a state of nature the cow like the deer hides her young in the tall ferns and breaks in the most secret places and only at stated times twice or thrice a day quits the herd and hastening to the secret cover gives stock to her calf and with the same circumspection returns to the community in some countries to please the epicurean taste of vitiated appetites it is the custom to kill the calf for food almost immediately after birth and any accident that forestalls that event is considered to enhance its value we are happy to say however that in this country as far as England and Scotland are concerned the taste for very young veal has entirely gone out and staggering bob as the poor little enema was called in the language of the shambles is no longer to be met with in such a place the weaning of calves is a process that requires a great amount of care and judgement for though they are in reality not weaned till between the eighth and the twelfth week the process of rearing them by hand commences in fact from the birth the calf never being allowed to suck its down as the rearing of calves for the market is a very important and lucrative business the breeder generally arranges his stocks of at ten or a dozen of his cows shall carve about the same time and then by setting aside one or two to find food for the entire family gets the remaining eight or ten with their full fountains of milk to carry on the operations of his dairy some people have an idea that skimmed milk if given in sufficient quantity is good enough for the weaning period of calf feeding but this is a very serious mistake for the cream of which it has been deprived contain nearly all the oleaginous principles and the azote or nitrogen on which the vivifying properties of that fluid depends indeed so remarkably correct has this fact proved to be that a calf reared on one part of new milk mixed with five of water will thrive and look well while another treated with unlimited skimmed milk will be poor, thin and miserable it is sometimes a matter of considerable trouble to induce the blundering calf his instinct only teaches him to suck and that he will do at anything and with anything acquire the knowledge of inhibition but for the first few days it is often necessary to fill a bottle with milk and opening his mouth pour the contents down his throat the manner however by which he is finally educated into the mystery of suction is by putting his allowance of milk into a large wooden bowl the nurse then puts her hand into the milk and by bending her fingers upwards a rude teat for the calf to grasp in his lips when the vacuum caused by his suction of the fingers causes the milk to rise along them into his mouth in this manner one by one the whole family are to be fed three times a day care being taken that newborn calves are not at first fed on milk from a cow who has some days curled as the calf progresses towards his 10th week his diet requires to be increased in quantity and quality for these objects his milk can be thickened with flour or meal and small pieces of softened oil cake are to be slipped into his mouth after sucking that they may dissolve there till he grows familiar with and to like the taste when it may be softened and scraped down into his milk and water after a time slashed turnips softened by steam are to be given to him intolerable quantities then succulent grasses and finally hay may be added to the others some farmers desire us of rendering their calves fat in a culture in a shorter time as possible forget both the natural weakness of the digestive powers and the contracted volume of the stomach and allow the animals either to suck ad libitum or give them if brought up at the pale or by hand a larger quantity of milk than they can digest the idea of overloading the stomach never suggests itself to their minds they suppose that the more food the young creature consumes the sooner it will be fat and they allow it no exercise whatever for fear it should denude its very bones of their flesh under such circumstances the stomach soon becomes deranged its functions are no longer capable of acting the milk subjected to the acid of the stomach coagulates and forms a hardened mass of curd when the muscles become affected with spasms and death frequently ensues there was no species of slaughtering practised in this country so inhuman and disgraceful but till very lately employed in killing this poor animal when under the plea of making the flesh white the calf was bled day by day till when the final hour came the animal was unable to stand this inhumanity is, we believe now everywhere abolished and the calf is at once killed and with the least amount of pain a sharp pointed knife is run through the neck severing all the large veins and arteries up to the vertebrae it is then taken off to the knee which is disjointed into the head which is removed it is then reflected backwards and the carcass having been opened and dressed is kept apart by stretchers and the thin membrane, the call extended over the organs left in the carcass is the kidneys and sweet bread some melted fat is then scattered suddenly over the whole interior giving that white and frosted appearance to the meat that is thought to add to its beauty the hole is then hung up to cool and harden the manner of cutting up veal for the English market is to divide the carcass into four quarters with eleven ribs to each four quarter which are again subdivided into joints as exemplified on the cut the several parts of a moderately sized well fed calf about eight weeks old are nearly of the following weights loin and chomp eight pounds fillet twelve and a half pounds knuckle five and a half pounds shoulder, eleven pounds neck, eleven pounds breast, nine pounds and four knuckle, five pounds making a total of 144 pounds weight the London mode of cutting the carcass is considered better than that pursued in Edinburgh is giving three roasting joints and one boiling in each quarter besides the pieces being more equally divided as regards flesh the appearance they make on the table end of section 39 section 40 of the book of household management this is a LibriVox recording or LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org the book of household management by Isabella Beaton recipes chapter 19 part 1 baked veal cold meat cookery 856 ingredients half a pound of cold roast veal a few slices of bacon one pint of breadcrumbs half a pint of good veal gravy half a teaspoon full of minced lemon peel one blade of pounded mace cayenne and salt to taste four eggs mode mince finally the veal and bacon add the breadcrumbs, gravy and seasoning and stir these ingredients well together beat up the eggs thoroughly add these, mix the whole well together put into a dish and bake from three quarters to one hour when liked a little good gravy may be served in a terrain as an accompaniment time from three quarters to one hour average cost exclusive of the cold meat sixpence sufficient for three or four persons seasonable from March to October roast breast of veal 857 ingredients veal, a little flour mode wash the veal, well wipe it and dredge it with flour put it down to a bright fire not too near as it should not be scorched baste it plentifully until done dish it pour over the meat some good melted butter and send to table with it a piece of boiled bacon and a cut lemon time from one and a half to two hours average cost eight and a half pence per pound sufficient for five or six persons seasonable from March to October stewed breast of veal and peas 858 ingredients breast of veal two ounces of butter a bunch of savoury herbs including parsley two blades of pounded mace two cloves five or six young onions one strip of lemon peel six allspice quarter of a teaspoon full of pepper one teaspoon of salt thickening of butter and flour two tablespoons of sherry two tablespoons of tomato sauce one tablespoon full of lemon juice two tablespoons of mushroom ketchup green peas mode cut the breast in half after removing the bone underneath and divide the meat into convenient size pieces put the butter into a frying pan lay in the pieces of veal and fry until of a nice brown colour now place these in a stew pan with the herbs mace, cloves, onions, lemon peel allspice and seasoning pour over them just sufficient boiling water to cover the meat well close the lid and let the whole simmer very gently for about two hours strain off as much gravy as is required thicken it with butter and flour add the remaining ingredients skim well let it simmer for about ten minutes then pour it over the meat have ready some green peas boiled separately sprinkle these over the veal and serve it may be garnished with forced meatballs or rashes of bacon curled and fried instead of cutting up the meat many persons prefer it dressed whole in that case it should be half roasted before the water etc I'll put to it time, two and a quarter hours average cost eight and a half pence per pound sufficient for five or six persons seasonable from March to October breeding of calves the forwarding of calves to maturity whether intended to be read for stock or brought to an early marketer's veal is always a subject of great importance and requires a considerable amount of intelligence in the selection of the best course to adopt for either end when meant to be read as stock the breeding should be so arranged that the cow shall carve about the middle of May as our subject however has more immediate reference to the calf as meat than as stock we shall confine our remarks to the mode of procedure adopted in the former case and here the first process adopted is that of weaning which consists in separating the calf entirely from the cow but at the same time raring it on the mother's milk as the business of the dairy would be suspended if every cow were allowed to rare its young and butter cheese and cream become deciderato things to be desired but not possessed a system of economical husbandry becomes necessary so as to retain our dairy produce and yet for some weeks at least nourish the calf on its mother's milk but without allowing the animal to draw that supply for itself this with the proper substituted food on which to rare the young animal is called weaning veal cake a convenient dish for a picnic 859 ingredients a few slices of cold roast veal a few slices of cold ham two hard boiled eggs two table spinfuls of minced parsley a little pepper good gravy cut off all the brown outside from the veal and cut the eggs into slices procure a pretty mould lay veal, ham, eggs and parsley in layers with a little pepper between each and when the mould is full get some strong stock and fill up the shape bake for half an hour and when cold turn it out time half an hour boil at any time boiled calf's feet and parsley and butter 860 ingredients two calf's feet two slices of bacon two ounces of butter two table spinfuls of lemon juice salt and whole pepper to taste one onion a bunch of savoury herbs four cloves one blade of mace water, parsley mode procure two white calf's feet boil them as far as the first joint and put them into warm water to soak for two hours then put the bacon, butter, lemon juice onion, herbs, spices and seasoning into a stew pan lay in the feet and pour in just sufficient water to cover up the whole stew gently for about three hours take out the feet dish them and cover with parsley and butter at a time number 493 the liquor they were boiled in should be strained and put by in a clean basin for use it will be found very good as in addition to gravies etc etc time rather more than three hours average cost in full season nine pence each sufficient for four persons seasonable from march to october when a calf should be killed the age at which a calf ought to be killed should not be under four weeks. Before that time, the flesh is certainly not wholesome, wanting firmness due development of muscular fibre, and those animal juices on which the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend, whatever the unhealthy palate of epicures may deem to the contrary. In France, a law exists to prevent the slaughtering of calves under six weeks of age. The calf is considered in prime condition at ten weeks, when he will weigh from sixteen to eighteen stone, and sometimes even twenty. Friccassade calf's feet, 861. Ingredients. A set of calf's feet, for the butter, allow for each egg one tablespoon full of flour, one tablespoon full of breadcrumbs, hot lard or clarified dripping, pepper and salt to taste. Mode. If the feet are purchased uncleaned, dip them into warm water repeatedly and scrape off the hair, first one foot and then the other until the skin looks perfectly clean. A saucepan of water being kept by the fire until they are finished. After washing and soaking in cold water, boil them in just sufficient water to cover them until the bones come easily away. Then pick them out, and after straining the liquor into a clean vessel, put the meat into a pie dish until the next day. Now cut it down in slices about half an inch thick. Lay on them a stiff batter made of egg, flour and breadcrumbs in the above proportion. Season with pepper and salt, and plunge them into a pan of boiling lard. Fry the slices a nice brown. Dry them before the fire for a minute or two, dish them on a napkin, and garnish with tufts of parsley. This should be eaten with melted butter, mustard and vinegar. Be careful to have the lard boiling to set the batter, or the pieces of feet will run about the pan. The liquor they were boiled in should be saved, and will be found useful for enriching gravies, making jellies, etc. Time about three hours to stew the feet, 10 or 15 minutes to fry them. Average cost in full season, nine pence each. Sufficient for eight persons, seasonable from March to October. Note this dish can be highly recommended to delicate persons. Color of veal. Its whiteness of flesh is considered a great advantage in veal. Butchers in the selection of their calves are in the habit of examining the inside of its mouth, and noting the color of the calf's eyes, alleging that, from the signs they dare see, they can prognosticate whether the veal will be white or florid. Collard calf's head, 862. Ingredients. A calf's head, four tablespoons of minced parsley, four blades of pounded mace, half a teaspoon full of grated nutmeg, white pepper to taste, a few thick slices of ham, the yolks of six eggs boiled hard. Mode. Scald the head for a few minutes. Take it out of the water and with a blunt knife scrape off all the hair. Clean it nicely. Divide the head and remove the brains. Boil it tender enough to take out the bones which will be in about two hours. When the head is burned, flatten it on the table. Sprinkle over it a thick layer of parsley, then a layer of ham, and then the yolks of the eggs cut into thin wings and put a seasoning of pounded mace, nutmeg, and white pepper between each layer. Roll the head up in a cloth and tie it up as tightly as possible. Boil it for four hours and when it is taken out of the pot place the heavy weight on the top, the same as for other colors. Let it remain till cold, then remove the cloth and binding, and it will be ready to serve. Time altogether six hours. Average cost? Five shillings to seven shillings each. Seasonable from March to October. Feeding a calf. The amount of milk necessary for a calf for some time will be about four quarts a day, though after the first fortnight that quantity should be gradually increased according to its development of body when, if fed exclusively on milk as much as three gallons a day will be requisite for the due health and requirements of the animal. If the weather is fine and genial it should be turned into an orchid or small paddock for a few hours each day to give it an opportunity to acquire a relish for the fresh pasture, which by the tenth or twelfth week it will begin to nibble and enjoy. After a certain time the quantity of milk may be diminished and it's placed supplied by water thickened with meal. Hay tea and linseed jelly are also highly nutritious substances and may be used either as adjuncts or substitutes. Fricasade calf's head and entree, eight hundred and sixty-three. Ingredients. The remains of a boiled calf's head, one and a half pints of the liquor in which the head was boiled, one blade of pounded mace, one onion minced, a bunch of savoury herbs, salt and white pepper to taste, thickening of butter and flour, the yolks of two eggs, one tablespoon full of lemon juice, four meat balls. Mode. Remove all the bones from the head and cut the meat into nice square pieces. Put one and a half pints of the liquor it was boiled in into a saucepan with mace, onion, herbs and seasoning in the above proportion. Let this simmer gently for three quarters of an hour then strain it and put in the meat. When quite hot through thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour and just before dishing the fricasade put in the beaten yolks of eggs and lemon juice but be particular after these two later ingredients are added the sauce does not boil or it will curdle. Garnish with four meat balls and curled slices of boiled bacon. To ensure the sauce being smooth it is a good plan to dish the meat first and then to add the eggs to the gravy. When these are set the sauce may be poured over the meat. Time altogether one and a quarter hours. Average cost exclusive of the meat six pints. Calf's head on a metal detail. 864 ingredients. The remains of a cold calf's head rather more than half a pint of metal detail sauce number 466. Mode. Make the sauce by recipe number 466 and have it sufficiently thick that it may nicely cover the meat. Remove the bones from the head and cut the meat into neat slices. When the sauce is ready lay in the meat. Let it gradually warm through and after it boils up let it simmer very gently for five minutes and serve. Time rather more than one and a half hours. Average cost exclusive of the meat one shilling tuppence. Seasonable from March to October. The calf in America. In America the calf is left with the mother for three or four days when it is removed and at once fed on barley and oats ground together and made into a gruel. One quart of the meal being boiled for half an hour in 12 quarts of water. One quart of this certainly nutritious gruel is to be given lukewarm morning and evening. In 10 days a bundle of soft hay is put beside the calf which he soon begins to eat and at the same time some of the dry meal is placed in his manger for him to lick. This process gradually increasing the quantity of gruel twice a day is continued for two months till the calf is fit to go to grass and as it is said with the best possible success. But in this country the mode pointed out in number 862 has received the sanction of the best experience. Curried veal. Cold meat cookery. 865. Ingredients. The remains of cold roast veal. Four onions. Two apples sliced. One tablespoon full of curry powder. One dessert spoonful of flour. Half a pint of broth or water. One tablespoon full of lemon juice. Mode. Slice the onions and apples and fry them in a little butter. Then take them out. Cut the meat into neat cutlets and fry these of a pale brown. Add the curry powder and flour. Put in the onion, apples and a little broth or water and stew gently till quite tender. Add the lemon juice and serve with an edging of boiled rice. The curry may be ornamented with pickles, capsicums and gherkins arranged prettily on the top. Time three quarters of an hour. Average cost exclusive of the meat. Four pints. Seasonable from March to October. Veal cutlets and entree. 866. Ingredients. About three pounds of the prime part of the leg of veal. Egg and breadcrumbs. Three tablespoons of mint savoury herbs. Salt and pepper to taste. A small piece of butter. Mode. Have the veal cut into slices about three quarters of an inch in thickness. And, if not cut perfectly even, level the meat with a cutlet butt or rolling pin. Shape and trim the cutlets and brush them over with egg. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, with which have been mixed mint herbs and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and press the crumbs down. Fry them of a delicate brown in fresh lard or butter and be careful not to burn them. They should be very thoroughly done but not dry. If the cutlets be thick, keep the pan covered for a few minutes at a good distance from the fire after they have acquired a good colour. By this means, the meat will be done through. Lay the cutlets in a dish, keep them hot and make a gravy in the pan as follows. Dredge in a little flour. Add a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Brown it. Then pour as much boiling water as is required over it. Season with pepper and salt. Add a little lemon juice. Give one boil and pour it over the cutlets. They should be garnished with slices of broiled bacon and a few force meat balls will be found a very excellent addition to this dish. Time. For cutlets of a moderate thickness about twelve minutes. If very thick, allow more time. Average cost? Twelve pence per pound. Sufficient for six persons. Seasonable from March to October. Note, veal cutlets may be merely floured and fried of a nice brown. The gravy and garnishing should be the same as in the preceding recipe. They may also be cut from the loin or neck as shown in the engraving. Boiled veal cutlets are le talien and entre. Eight hundred and sixty seven. Ingredients. Neck of veal, salt and pepper to taste, the yolk of one egg, breadcrumbs, half a pint of Italian sauce number four hundred and fifty three. Mode. Cut the veal into cutlets, flatten and trim them nicely, tartar over them a little salt and pepper, brush them over with the yolk of an egg, dip them into breadcrumbs then into clarified butter and afterwards in the breadcrumbs again, broil or fry them over a clear fire that they may acquire a good brown colour. Arrange them in the dish alternately with rashes of broiled ham and pour the sauce made by recipe number four hundred and fifty three in the middle. Time. Ten to fifteen minutes according to the thickness of the cutlets. Average cost ten pints per pound. Seasonable from March to October. The carves head club. When the restoration of Charles II took the straight waistcoat off the mines and morose religion of the Commonwealth period and gave a loose rein to the long compressed spirits of the people, there still remained a large section of society wedded to the former state of things. The elders of this party retired from public sight, where, unafended by the reigning Satanalia, they might dream in seclusion over their departed utopia. The young bloods of this school, however, who were compelled to mingle in the world, yet detesting the politics which had become the fashion, adopted a novel expedient to keep alive their republican sentiments and mark the contempt of the reigning family. They accordingly met in considerable numbers at some convenient inn on the thirtieth of January in each year, the anniversary of Charles's death, and dined together off a feast prepared from carves heads, dressed in every possible variety of way, and with an abundance of wine drank toasts of defiance and hatred to the house of Stuart, and glory to the memory of old Hall Cromwell. And having lighted a large bonfire in the yard, the club of fast young Puritans, with their white henkerchief stained red in wine, and one of the party in a mask bearing an axe, followed by the chairman carrying a carves head pinned up in a napkin, marched in mock procession to the bonfire, into which, with great shouts and uproar, they flung the enveloped head. This odd custom was continued for some time, and even down to the early part of this century it was customary for men of republican politics always to dine off carves head on the thirtieth of January. Veal cutlets are Le Maintenant and Entree, eight hundred and sixty-eight. Ingredients, two or three pounds of veal cutlets, egg and breadcrumbs, two tablespoonfuls of mint savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little grated nutmeg. Mode, cut the cutlets about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, flatten them, and brush them over with the yolk of an egg. Dip the mint of breadcrumbs and minced herbs, season with pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and fold each cutlet in a piece of buttered paper. Boil them and send them to table with melted butter or a good gravy. Time from fifteen to eighteen minutes, average cost, ten pounds per pound, sufficient for five or six persons, seasonable from March to October. Veal à la bourgeois, excellent. Eight hundred and sixty-nine. Ingredients, two to three pounds of the loin or neck of veal, ten or twelve young carrots, a bunch of green onions, two slices of lean bacon, two blades of pounded mace, one bunch of savoury herbs, pepper and salt to taste, a few new potatoes, one pint of green peas. Mode, cut the veal into cutlets, trim them and put the chimmings into a stew pan with a little butter. Lay in the cutlets and fry them in nice brown colour on both sides. Add the bacon, carrots, onions, spice, herbs and seasoning. Pour in about a pint of boiling water and stew gently for two hours on a very slow fire. When done, skim off the fat, take out the herbs and flavour the gravy with a little tomato sauce and ketchup. Have ready the peas and potatoes boiled separately. Put them with the veal and serve. Time, two hours, average cost, two shillings, nine potatoes, sufficient for five or six persons. Seasonable from June to August with peas, rather earlier when these are omitted. Scotch collops, cold meat cookery, 870. Ingredients, the remains of cold roast veal, a little butter, flour, half a pint of water, one onion, one blade of pounded mace, one tablespoon of lemon juice, half a teaspoon full of finely minced lemon peel, two tablespoons of sherry, one tablespoon full of mushroom ketchup. Mode. Cut the veal the same thickness as for cutlets, rather larger than a crown piece. Flour the meat well and fry a light brown in butter. Dredge again with flour and add half a pint of water pouring it in by degrees. Set it on the fire and when it boils add the onion and mace and let it simmer very gently about three quarters of an hour. Serve it with lemon juice, peel, wine and ketchup in the above proportion. Give one boil and serve. Time, three quarters of an hour. Seasonable from March to October. Scotch collops, white, cold meat cookery. 870. Ingredients, the remains of cold roast veal, half a teaspoon full of grated nutmeg, two blades of pounded mace, cayenne and salt to taste, a little butter, one dessert spoonful of flour, half a pint of water, one teaspoon full of anchovy sauce, one tablespoon full of lemon juice, one tablespoon full of lemon peel, one tablespoon full of mushroom and ketchup, three tablespoons of cream, one tablespoon full of sherry. Mode. Cut the veal into thin slices about three inches in width, hack them with a knife and grate on them the nutmeg, mace, cayenne and salt and fry them in a little butter. Dish them and make a gravy in the pan by putting in the remaining ingredients. Give one boil and pour it over the collops. Garnish with lemon and slices of toasted bacon rolled. Four smit balls may be added to this dish. If cream is not at hand substitute the yolk of an egg beaten up well with a little milk. Time, about five or seven minutes. Seasonable from May to October. Cooking collops. Dean Ramsey, who tells us in his reminiscences of Scottish life and character, a number of famous stories of the strong-headed, warm-hearted and plain-spoken old dames of the North, gives amongst them the following. A strong-minded lady of this class was inquiring the character of a cook she was about to hire. The lady who was giving the character entered a little upon the cook's moral qualifications and described her as a very decent woman. To which the astounding reply, this was sixty years ago and a dean tells the story. Oh, dumbherd decency! Can she make good collops? Roast fillet of veal, 872, ingredients. Veal, four smit number 417, melted butter. Mode. Have the fillet cut according to the size required. Take out the bone, and after raising in from the meat, put under the flap a nice force meat, made by recipe number 417. Prepare sufficient of this as there should be some left to eat cold, and a season and flavour of mince if required. Skewer and bind the veal up in a round form. Dredge well with flour. Put it down at some distance from the fire at first, and baste continually. About half an hour before serving, draw it nearer the fire that it may acquire more colour, as the outside should be of a rich brown but not burnt. Dish it. Remove the skewers which replaced by a silver one. Pour over the joint some good melted butter and serve with either boiled ham, bacon, or pickled pork. Never omit to send a cut lemon to table with roast veal. Time? A fillet of veal weighing 12 pounds, about 4 hours. Average cost? 9 pence per pound. Sufficient for 9 or 10 persons. Seasonable from March to October. Stewed fillet of veal. 873. Ingredients. A small fillet of veal. Force meat number 417. Thickening of butter and flour. A few mushrooms. White pepper to taste. Two tablespoons of lemon juice. Two blades of pounded mace. Half a glass of sherry. Mode. Take off the knuckle to stew and also the square end which will serve for cutlets or pies. Remove the bone and fill the space with the force meat number 417. Roll and skewer it up firmly. Place a few skewers at the bottom of a stew pan to prevent the meat from sticking and cover the veal with a little weak stock. Let it simmer very gently until tender as the more slowly veal is stewed the better. Strain and thicken the sauce. Juice, mace, sherry and white pepper. Give one boil and pour it over the meat. The skewer should be removed and replaced by a silver one and the dished garnish with slices of cut lemon. Time. A fillet of veal weighing six pounds three hours very gentle stewing. Average cost? Nine pence per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Seasonable from March to October. The golden calf. We are told in the book of Genesis that Aaron in the lengthened absence of Moses was constrained by the impatient people to make them an image to worship and that Aaron instead of using his delegated power to curb this sinful expression of the tribes and appears the discontented Jews at once complied with their demand and telling them to bring to him their rings and trinkets fashioned out of their willing contributions a calf of gold before which the multitude fell down and worshipped. Whether this image was a solid figure of gold or a wooden effigy merely coated with metal is uncertain. To suppose the former knowing the size of the image made from such trifling articles as rings we must presuppose the Israelites who have spoiled the Egyptians most unmercifully. The figure however is of more consequence than the weight or size of the idol that the Israelite brought away more from Goshen than the plunder of the Egyptians and that they were deeply imbued with Egyptian superstition. The golden calf is only one out of many instances of proof for a gilded ox covered with a pole was in that country an emblem of Osiris one of the gods of the Egyptian Trinity. Besides having a sacred cow and many varieties of the holy bull this priest ridden people worshipped the ox as a symbol of the sun and offered to it divine honors as the emblem of frugality industry and husbandry. It is therefore probable that in borrowing so familiar a type the Israelites in their calf worship meant under a well understood cherubic symbol to acknowledge the full force of those virtues under an emblem of divine power and goodness. The prophet Hosea is full of denunciations against calf worship in Israel and alludes to the custom of kissing these idols Hosea 8 4-6 Veal an entree 874 Ingredients a piece of the fat side of a leg of veal about three pounds lardoons two carrots two large onions a faggot of savoury herbs two blades of pounded mace six whole ore spice two bay leaves pepper to taste a few slices of fat bacon one pint of stock number 107 Mode The veal for a fricando should be of the best quality or it will not be good. It may be known by the meat being white and not thready. Take off the skin flatten the veal on the table then at one stroke of the knife cut off as much as is required for a fricando with an uneven surface never looks well. Trim it and with a sharp knife make two or three slits in the middle that it may taste more of the seasoning. Now lard it thickly with fat bacon as lean gives a red colour to the fricando. Slice the vegetables and put these with the herbs and spices in the middle of a stew pan with a few slices of bacon at the top. These should form a sort of mound in the centre for the veal to rest upon. Lay the fricando over the bacon sprinkle over it a little salt and pour in just sufficient stock to cover the bacon etc without touching the veal. Let it gradually come to a boil then put it over a slow and equal fire and let it simmer very gently for about two and a half hours or longer should it be very large. Based it frequently with the liquor and a short time before serving put it into a brisk oven to make the bacon firm which otherwise would break when it was glazed. Dish the fricando keep it hot skim off the fat from the liquor and reduce it quickly to a glaze with which glaze the fricando and serve with a puree of whatever vegetable happens to be in season which sorrow, asparagus, cucumbers pears etc mode the veal for a fricando should be of the best quality or it will not be good it may be known by the meat being white and not thready take off the skin flatten the veal on the table then at one stroke of the knife cut off as much as is required for a fricando with an uneven surface never looks well trim it and with a sharp knife make two or three slits in the middle that it may taste more of the seasoning now lard it thickly with fat bacon as lean gives a red colour to the fricando slice the vegetables and put these with the herbs and spices in the middle of a stew pan with a few slices of bacon at the top these should form a sort of mound in the centre for the veal to rest upon lay the fricando over the bacon sprinkle over it a little salt and pour in just sufficient stock to cover the bacon etc without touching the veal let it gradually come to a boil then put it over a slow and equal fire and let it simmer very gently for about two and a half hours or longer should it be very large baste it frequently with the liquor and a short time before serving put it into a brisk oven to make the bacon firm which otherwise would break when it was glazed dish the fricando skim off the fat from the liquor and reduce it quickly to a glaze with which glaze the fricando and serve the puree of whatever vegetable happens to be in season spinach, sorrel, asparagus cucumbers, peas etc time two and a half hours if very large allow more time average cost three shillings sixpence sufficient for an entree seasonable from March to October one or a veal, more economical 875 ingredients the best end of a neck of veal about two and a half pounds lardoons, two carrots two onions, a faggot of savoury herbs two blades of mace two bay leaves a little whole white pepper a few slices of fat bacon mode cut away the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal with a sharp knife scooping it from the bones put the bones in with a little water which will serve to moisten the fricando they should stew about one and a half hours lard the veal, proceed in the same way as in the preceding recipe and be very careful that the gravy does not touch the fricando stew very gently for three hours, glaze and serve it on sorrel, spinach or with a little gravy in the dish time three hours average cost, two shilling sixpence sufficient for an entree seasonable from March to October note, when the prime part of the leg is cut off it spoils the whole, consequently to use this for a fricando is rather extravagant the best end of the neck answers the purpose nearly or quite as well end of section 40