 CHAPTER III BOLIVIA THE NATIVE BOLIVIAN The Indian of the Bolivian Plateau is still only a half-civilized man and less than half a Christian. He retains his primeval nature worship, which groups together the spirits that dwell in mountains, rivers, and rocks, with the spirits of his ancestors, revering and propitiating all as Achaquilus. In the same ceremony his medicine man invokes the Christian deals, to favour the building of a house or whatever he undertakes, and simultaneously invokes the Achaquilus, propitiating them also by offerings, the gift made to the earth-spirit being buried in the soil. Similarly, he retains the ceremonial dances of heathendom, and has secret dancing-guilds, of whose mysteries the white man can learn nothing. His morality is what it was, in theory and practice, four centuries ago, he neither loves nor hates, but fares the white man, and the white man neither loves nor hates, but despises him, there being some fear mingled with contempt. Intermarriage between pure Indians and pure Europeans is very uncommon. They are held together neither by social relations nor by political, but by the need which the white landowner has for the Indians' labour, and by the power of long habit, which has made the Indian aqueous in his subjection as a rent-payer. Neither of them ever refers to the Spanish conquest, the white man does not honour the memory of Pizarro. To the Indian the story is too dim and distant to affect his mind, nor is it the least remarkable feature of the situation that the mestizo, or half-breed, forms no link between the races. He prefers to speak Spanish, which the Indian rarely understands. He has held to belong to the upper race, which is for social and political purpose, though not by right of numbers, the Peruvian or Bolivian nation. The Story of Bolivia 1. With the exception of Paraguay, Bolivia is the only entirely inland state in South America. It is really a manufactured nation. When the War of Independence of that part of South America ended, the revolutionary leaders set up this country as an independent state, and gave it the name of Bolivia, in honour of Simon Bolivar, the liberator, himself a native of Venezuela. Bolivia is bounded on the north and east by Brazil, on the south by Paraguay and Argentina, and on the west by Chile and Peru. In its early days Bolivia was simply a part of the empire of the Incas of Peru. The story of the Incas has been given in mentor No. 132, Peru. After the conquest of Peru by the Spaniards in the 16th century, the natives were subjected to a great deal of tyranny and oppression. They were compelled to work in the mines and endured so many hardships and cruelties that their numbers rapidly diminished. During the 17th and 18th centuries there were many struggles between the native-born inhabitants and their Spanish rulers. The Indian revolt in Cusco, Peru, which was led by the Inca Tupac Amaru, stirred up the Bolivian Indians to further efforts. For three months, Iowile, with eighty thousand men, besieged the city of La Paz. Finally his army was dispersed and the insurrection was crushed. Injustice had been worked not only upon the Indians, but upon the native-born Spanish Americans. These grew restless at last, and on July 16th, 1809, conspirators at La Paz deposed and put into prison the governor, and then proclaimed the independence of the country. One of the leaders, Pedro Domingo Moreno, was elected president. This was the first effort in South America toward democratic government. The Spanish viceroy, however, sent a trained army which soon overcame that of the patriots. On January 29th, 1810, Mario perished on the scaffold. In the face of death, however, he exclaimed, the torch which I have lighted shall never be extinguished. From then on, until 1825, there was almost uninterrupted warfare. Success was equally divided at first between the Spanish and the revolutionary forces. On December 9th, 1824, the battle of Iocucho in Lower Peru finally ended Spanish dominion in South America. General Sucre was the victorious general. On January 29, 1825, the last Spanish authorities vacated La Paz. General Sucre and his army made a triumphal entry there on February 7th, 1825. This general now assumed supreme command in Upper Peru. The first National Assembly met in June at the city of Chukisaca, now called Sucre. They decided that the part of the country hitherto known as Upper Peru should be made a separate and independent nation with the name of Bolivia. The act of independence bears the date of August 6th, 1825. Simon Bolivar was elected the first president, and Chukisaca was made the capital under the name of Sucre. When General Bolivar arrived in the city of La Paz on August 18th, he was greeted with wild enthusiasm. He was inaugurated at Sucre in November, but resigned in January 1826 to return to Lima in Peru. There was no peace for the people of Bolivia yet, however. Troublous times followed, and finally came the war with Chile. This war arose over the collection of an export tax on nitrate. Chile sent troops to occupy Bolivian territory, and then Peru, linked to Bolivia by secret treaty, together with that country, declared war on Chile on August 5th, 1879. Both Peru and Bolivia were entirely unprepared, and Chile was completely victorious in this war. As a result Bolivia lost what little coastline the country had previously possessed. During the last thirty years internal dissensions in Bolivia have for the most part ceased. There was a brief time of trouble in 1898 over the question of the capital city. It had been the custom for the cities of Sucre, La Paz, Cochambamba, and Aruro to take turns in being the seat of government. In December 1898, however, the Bolivian Congress attempted to pass a law making Sucre the permanent residence of the President and Cabinet. La Paz protested, and the people of the city rose an open revolt. On January 17th, 1899, a battle was fought between the insurgents and the government forces. The insurgents were completely victorious. As a result La Paz was made the real seat of government, although Sucre retains the name of capital, General Pondo, Commander of the Revolutionary Forces, was elected President. In 1903 a boundary dispute with Brazil over some rich rubber country was settled by the session by Bolivia of a part of the province of Arcre in return for a cash payment of ten million dollars. Government and institutions, too. Bolivia is a centralized republic. Its government is representative in form, but to a great extent it is autocratic in effect. The Bolivian constitution was adopted on October 28th, 1880, and is a model of its kind. The executive branch of the government consists of a president and two vice presidents. They are elected by direct popular vote for a period of four years, and are ineligible for election for the next succeeding term. The president has a cabinet of six ministers, foreign relations and worship, treasury, government and promotion, fomento, justice and industry, public instruction and agriculture, war and colonization. The legislative branch consists of a national congress of two houses, a senate and a chamber of deputies. The senate is composed of sixteen members, two from each department, who are elected by direct popular vote for a period of six years. The chamber of deputies is composed of seventy members, who are elected for a period of four years. Congress meets annually and its sessions are for sixty days, which may be extended to ninety days. All male citizens, twenty-one years of age or over, who can read and write and have a fixed independent income, may vote. The number of citizens who vote therefore is very small, and the country is, for that reason, under the control of a political oligarchy. The judiciary consists of a national supreme court, eight superior district courts and many lower district courts. The supreme court is composed of seven justices, elected by the chamber of deputies. In each department or state a prefect appointed by the president has supreme power. The government of these departments rests with the national congress. The military forces of Bolivia include about three thousand regulars and an enrolled force of eighty thousand men. This enrolled force, however, is both unorganized and unarmed. In 1894 a conscription law was passed, providing for compulsory military service for all males between the ages of twenty-one and fifty years, with two years actual service in the regulars for those between twenty-one and twenty-five. This law is practically a dead letter. There is a military school with sixty cadets and an arsenal at the city of La Paz. Naturally Bolivia, having no coastline, is not provided with the navy. Bolivia has a free and compulsory school system, but education has made little progress there. Very few of the people can read and write. Spanish is the official language, but Quichua, Imara, and Guarani are the languages of the natives who form a majority of the population. A great part of the Indians do not understand Spanish at all, and will not learn it. The school enrollment is about one in forty-four. There are universities at Sucre, La Paz, Cochambamba, Tariha, Potosi, Santa Cruz, and Aruroo. The university at Sucre, which dates from colonial times, and that of La Paz, are the only ones well enough equipped to merit the title. The Constitution of Bolivia says, The state recognizes and supports the Roman apostolic Catholic religion, the public exercise of any other worship being prohibited, except in the colonies where it is tolerated. However, this toleration is extended to the resident foreigners belonging to other religious sects. The Indians profess the Roman Catholic faith, but this is tinged with the superstitions of their ancestors. At this point it will be interesting to consider the Indians of Bolivia. The population of the country is composed of Indians and Caucasians of European origin, and a mixture of the two races generally described as mestizos. There is also a small percentage of Africans descendants of the Negro slaves introduced in colonial times. Naturally, the Indians are in great majority. The Bolivian Indian is essentially a farmer, scarcely any of these Indians are educated. Of the various tribes of Indians, the Amaras are the most civilized. The Mojos and Chiquitos tribes are peaceable and industrious. They have little ambition and are held almost in a state of peonage. Inhabiting the southern part of the Bolivian plains are the Chiraguanos, a detached tribe of the Guarani race which drifted westward to the vicinity of the Andes long ago. They are of a superior physical and mental type and have made a great deal of progress toward civilization. Of the wild Indians very little is known in regard to either their numbers or customs. The mestizos or half-breeds, sometimes called cholos, are the connecting link between the whites and the Indians. It has been said of the mestizos that they inherit the vices of both races and the virtues of neither. Resources and industries, three. Imagine, says James Brice, a country as big as the German and Austrian dominions put together, with a population less than that of Denmark, four fifths of it consisting of semi-civilized or uncivilized Indians, and a few educated men of European and mixed stock, scattered here and there in half a dozen towns, none of which has more than a small number of capable citizens of that stock. That country is Bolivia. The popular idea of Bolivia is that it is an extremely rugged mountainous country. In fact, only two-fifths of the total area of Bolivia is comprised within the Andean Cordilleras, which crossed the south-west corner. Three-fifths of the country is composed of low alluvial plains, great swamps and flooded bottom lands, and gently undulating forest regions. There are also considerable areas that afford rich grazing lands. Bolivia lies wholly within the torrid zone. The only variations in temperature, therefore, are due to elevation. For this reason the country possesses every degree of temperature, from that of the tropical lowlands to the arctic cold of the snow-capped peaks directly above. Bolivia has many interesting animals. There are numerous species of monkeys that inhabit the forests of the tropical region, together with the puma, jaguar, wildcat, taper, and sloth. A rare bear, the ursus, ornatus, spectacled bear, inhabits the wooded Indian foothills. The chinchilla lives in the colder plateau regions of the country. The most interesting of all the Bolivian animals, however, are the guanico, and its relatives, the llama, alpaca, and vicunia. These animals have the structure and habits of the African camel, but are smaller and have no hump. They are able to go without food and drink for long periods. The llama and the alpaca have been domesticated for centuries, but the guanico and vicunia are found in a wild state only. The llama is used as a pack animal, and the alpaca is highly prized for its fine wool. The slaughter of the guanico and the vicunia is rapidly diminishing their number. Of birds the species in Bolivia are very numerous. The high mountains are frequented by condors and eagles of the largest size, while the American ostrich, and a species of large stork, inhabit the tropical plains and valleys. The common vulture is scattered throughout the whole country. All sorts of plants, flowers, and vegetation are to be found in Bolivia, coca, a shrub of the flax family, the dry leaves of which are chewed by the native Indians as a stimulant, is one of the most important plants of the country. The most important of the forest products, however, is rubber. Sugarcane, rice, and tobacco are cultivated in the warm districts. The most important industry in Bolivia is mining. The lofty and desert part of the country finds its only natural source of wealth in minerals. The Western Cordillera is especially rich in copper and silver, the eastern in gold and tin. It has been said that one third of all the world's production of tin now comes from Bolivia. It was from the East Andean regions that the Incas obtained those vast stores of gold which so excited the Spaniards. The legend has it that the gold that the Spanish took out of the country was much less than that which the Indians buried or threw into the lakes to keep it from the conquerors. Next to mining, stock raising is one of the chief industries of the country. Horses and to a greater extent cattle are raised there. Goats and sheep are also a source of profit. Although the agricultural resources of Bolivia are of great value, their development has been slow. Sugarcane is grown, but chiefly for the manufacture of rum. Rice is also raised, but the quantity is not great. Tobacco and coffee of fair quality grow readily. The product that receives the most attention, however, is coca. This plant is highly esteemed by the natives who chew the leaf. It is also used for medicinal purposes. It is from her forests, however, that Bolivia derives the greatest immediate profit. The most prominent and profitable industry is that of rubber collecting. This was begun in Bolivia between 1880 and 1890. In 1903 Bolivia's best rubber forests were transferred to Brazil, but there still remain extensive areas where good rubber is collected. The industrial activities of the Bolivian people are still of a very primitive character. Spinning and weaving are done in the home. The Indian women are expert weavers. Other industries of some importance are the manufacture of scars and cigarettes, soap, candles, hats, gloves, starch, cheese, and pottery. The foreign trade of Bolivia is comparatively unimportant, with the exception of the products of its minds. One difficulty that Bolivia has to contend with is the lack of transportation facilities. Railways have never been developed to any extent, but great plans are on foot to remedy this. With communications improved and extended, the future of Bolivia appears bright. La Paz. IV. La Paz is a most unusual city. It is the highest capital city in the world. For although Sucre is the official capital, La Paz is really the capital city of Bolivia. It lies in a great mountain hollow nearly thirteen thousand feet above the sea. This altitude closely approaches that of Pike's Peak, but whereas such an altitude in our country would mean perpetual snow, here it brings only a temperate climate, where flowers blossom throughout the air, and the little snow that falls quickly vanishes in the morning sunlight. The city's official name is La Paz de Ayacuchoo. It is built in a deeply worn valley of the Cordillera Real, which is believed to have formed an outlet of Lake Titicaca. La Paz is built on both banks of the Rio de La Paz, or Rio Chukiapu, thirty miles south-east of Lake Titicaca. The valley in which the city lies is about ten miles long and three miles wide. It is very barren and forbidding, and its precipitous sides, gullied by rains and coloured by mineral oars, rise fifteen hundred feet above the city, above Ilemani and other giant mountains of the Bolivian Cordilleras, rear their snow-capped peaks. The upper edge of the valley is called Alto de La Paz, or Heights of La Paz. The city is surprisingly large, its population being about eighty thousand. Two-thirds of the population consists of Indians, they give a picturesqueness to the place, the women of the cholos, or half-breeds, being especially gaily attired. The greater part of La Paz lies on the left bank of the river. Both banks rise steeply from the stream, and the streets at right angles to the river are very precipitous. All the streets are narrow and paved with small cobblestones. The sidewalks also are so narrow that only two may go abreast. Many of the inhabitants prefer to walk in the middle of the street. The only things likely to be met are either pedestrians or llamas, the latter used in great numbers in this part of the country, as pack animals. La Paz was founded in 1548 by the Spaniard Alonzo de Mendoza, on the site of an Indian village called Chikuapu. It soon became an important colony. At the end of the War of Independence in 1825, it was renamed La Paz to Ayacucho, in honour of the last decisive battle of the Revolution. La Paz was then made one of the four capitals of the Bolivian Republic. When the Bolivian Congress, however, attempted to designate sucre as the permanent capital, the citizens of La Paz revolted, and by this revolution in 1898 the seat of government was permanently established there. One of the most interesting parts of the city to visitors is the Almeira. This is a handsome thoroughfare with rows of trees, shrubs and flowers. It also has a wide central walk, with pools in which are swans and goldfish. Along the Almeira are many new and rather pretty residences. Most of the houses are painted in tints of pale blue, green, yellow and strawberry, giving the street a gay and pleasing appearance. The Plaza Murillo is so named from the patriot Pedro Domingo Murillo, who was executed there in 1810. This spot is also the place where independence was first declared in 1809. It has been the scene of many turbulent episodes. On one side of the Plaza is the Government Palace, erected in 1885. This contains the offices of many state officials, and in the upper story the office and residence of the President and his family. The Cathedral of La Paz on the same side of the Plaza as the Government Palace is still in process of construction. The foundations were laid in 1843. When finished it will be one of the largest and most expensive cathedrals in South America. It is to be built in the Greco-Roman style, will have towers nearly two hundred feet high, a dome the top of which will be one hundred feet above the floor, and will be capable of seating twelve thousand persons. Across the corner from the Government Palace is the Hall of Congress. Another interesting spot is the Marketplace. Here come thousands of Indians to buy and sell. Other buildings of note are the Old University of San Andres, the Church of San Francisco, the Church of Santo Domingo, the Museum of Natural History, Rich and Relics of the Inca and Colonial Periods, the very much up-to-date theatre, and the Municipal Library. The houses of the lower classes in La Paz are usually built with mud walls and covered with tiles. The better-class dwellings, however, are constructed of stone and brick. La Paz is an important commercial centre. It is connected with the Pacific Coast by the Bolivian Railway from Mollando to Puno, and a Bolivian extension from Guaqui to Alto de La Paz, the two lines being connected by a steamship service across Lake Titicaca. An electric railway, five miles long, runs from the Alto de La Paz to the city. Sucre, Five On May 25th, 1809, the first city of Spanish South America revolted against the rule of Spain. That city was Sucre. This town was originally the site of an Indian village called Chukisaca, or Chukisaca, which means Golden Bridge. In 1538 the Spaniards under Captain Pedro Ángeles settled there and called the place Chacas, and the Uthodela Plata, but the natives always clung to the original Indian name. In time the town became the favourite residence and health resort of the rich mine owners of Potosi, some distance away. After the South Americans had won their independence, the name of Chukisaca was changed to Sucre. In honour of the general who won the last decisive battle of the war, and became the first president of Bolivia. Since that time the city has suffered much from quarrels between the various factions of Bolivia. It is now the nominal capital of the republic, but the seat of government for Bolivia is located in La Paz. Since the government was removed there, Sucre has greatly diminished in importance. The city is in an elevated valley, being about 8,839 feet above the sea. For this reason it has an exceptionally agreeable climate. In the vicinity are fertile valleys which provide the city markets with fruit and vegetables. The population of the city is about 25,000. Sucre is laid out regularly. It has broad streets, a large central plaza, and a public garden, or promenade, called the Prado. There are nine plazas altogether. That, called the Twenty-Five Demail, has a stream on each side. One of these flows northward and joins the Mamare, and so reaches the Amazon. The other turns southeast, going on to the Pilcomio and at last to the estuary of La Plata. The cathedral of Sucre, called the Metropolitan Cathedral, is the richest in Bolivia. It dates from 1553, and possesses an image of solid gold with a rich adornment of jewels, called the Virgin of Guadalupe. This is said to be worth a million dollars. The legislative palace of Sucre contains handsomely decorated halls, but this building is no longer occupied as such by the national government. Other important buildings are the Cabildo, or Town Hall, the Mint dating from 1572, the Courts of Justice, and the University of San Francisco Xavier, which was founded in 1624 and has faculties of law, medicine, and theology. At the lower end of the central plaza, or Prado, is a pretty chapel called the Rotunda. This was erected in 1852 by President Belsu, on the spot where an unsuccessful attempt had been made to assassinate him. Sucre is the seat of the Supreme Court of Bolivia, and also of the Archbishop of La Plata and Charcas, the primate of Bolivia. The city is not a commercial one. Its only noteworthy manufacture is the clay dumplings, which are eaten with potatoes by the inhabitants of the Bolivian uplands. In spite of being the capital of the country, it is one of the most isolated towns because of the difficult character of the roads leading to it. It is reached from the Pacific by way of Charlyapata, a station on the Antofagasta, and Aruro Railroad. The city will soon be connected by rail with the region of the west. Cities of Bolivia, Six Cochambamba is called the Garden City of Bolivia. It was founded in 1574 in a beautiful valley on the east side of the mountains, which are here called the Royal Range. For a time the town was known as Oropesa. During the War of Independence the people of the city took an active part. The women especially distinguished themselves in an attack on the Spanish camp in 1815. Three years later some of them were put to death by the Spanish forces. In general the isolated situation of Cochambamba has been a protection against the disorders which have from time to time upset Bolivia. Cochambamba stands on the Rocha, a small tributary of the Guapai River. Its population is about 30,000, mostly Indians and mestizos. The city is 8400 feet above the sea, 291 miles north northwest of Sucre, and 132 miles east northeast of Aruro. A newly constructed railway runs from Aruro to Cochambamba. The climate is mild and temperate, and the surrounding country fertile and cultivated. Trade is active, and in fact the city is one of the most progressive in Bolivia in spite of its isolated situation. It is laid out regularly and contains many attractive buildings. The city has a university and two colleges, but they are poorly equipped. The name of the city of Potosi has become proverbial and smacks of almost magical and unearthly wealth. It possesses some of the most wonderful silver mines in the world. Founded in 1547, shortly after the first discovery of silver there by an Indian herder, it has since produced an enormous amount of the precious metal. One writer estimates the yield of the mines there as having been worth one billion dollars. Seven thousand mines have been started, of which seven hundred are being worked for silver and tin today. At one time the city had a population of one hundred fifty thousand, which has now dwindled to about twenty-five thousand. Potosi stands on a barren terrace about thirteen thousand feet above sea level, and is one of the highest towns in the world. It is forty-seven miles southwest of Sucre in a direct line. The famous Cerro Gordo de Potosi rises above the town to a height of fifteen thousand three hundred eighty-one feet, a barren white-capped mountain honeycombed with mining shafts. The town itself is laid out regularly. A large plaza forms the centre, around which are grouped various buildings, such as the Government House, National College, the old Royal Mint, dating from fifteen eighty-five, and the Treasury. The city has a cathedral, which in part dates from early colonial times. The water supply is derived from a system of twenty-seven artificial lakes, or reservoirs, and aqueducts constructed by the Spanish Government during the years of the city's greatest prosperity. Ururo is an important mining town of about twenty thousand people. During the colonial period this town was noted next to Potosi for the richness and productiveness of its mines. The mines in the neighbourhood are now worked principally, though not entirely, for tin. Ururo is one hundred fifteen miles south southeast, in a direct line from the pause. It stands twelve thousand two hundred fifty feet above sea level, and its climate is characterised by a short, cool summer and a cold, rainy winter. Ururo is a Bolivian terminus of the Antofagusta Railway, the first constructed in Bolivia. In time the city promises to be one of the most important railway centres in the country. Ururo contains many foreign residents, and several clubs. The Government Palace and the University Building face the principal plaza. Besides these the city has a theatre, a public library, and a mineralogical museum, as well as the usual churches, hospitals and schools. There is one other region in Bolivia that should be visited by all travellers interested in the mysterious past of the country. This region is called Tiawanaku. It is not far from the pause, and the ruins there were believed by Sir Clement Markham to indicate the former existence of a large city of the Incas. One huge gateway, broken, and apparently not in its original position, is especially interesting. This great piece of stone is thirteen feet wide, seven feet above the ground, and three feet thick. It is curiously and elaborately carved. In the centre is a human head, supposed to represent the creator of the universe. To this other figures, partly human and some with heads of condors, seem to be offering worship. Other stones in this region are remarkable for their size and for the ornamental carving that appears upon them. All the ruins are apparently of great age. It is not difficult to imagine a time when the city was the home of thousands of human beings in a very advanced stage of civilisation. The Native Bolivian Indian Bolivia is another Tibet, one of the highest inhabited plateaus in the world. It is one of the richest mineral sections, as it now produces about one-third of the world's supply of tin, and contains vast wealth in its rich copper, gold, and silver mines. Nearly ninety percent of its population is of Indian origin, and to this fact may be attributed its slow progress, as outside of its capital city almost everything is still in a primitive state. Since its last war with Chile it has been shut off from the sea coast, and to get to Bolivia one must now cross either Chile or Peru, which necessitates a long journey by rail, and if entrance be by the way of the Peruvian gateway, Muyendo Lake Titicaca must also be crossed. The parts of this steamer were carried to the lake by rail and put together there. Lying in a valley at an altitude of more than twelve thousand feet above the level of the sea is the Bolivian capital La Paz, the city of peace. It is picturesquely situated in a huge bowl cut into the plateau, and to reach it one must descend in an electric car thirteen hundred feet down the steep slope where at the bottom of the cup lies a city of more than one hundred fifty thousand people. In its situation it is probably the most remarkable of all capitals. Although called the city of peace it has been the scene of turmoil and strife ever since the Spaniards invaded these solitudes. Rising high above the city is beautiful Illumani, one of the highest peaks of the Andes, perpetually clad in snow. This magnificent mountain dominates the view and is one of the most striking scenic features of Bolivia. In the central square of the Paz rises the cathedral, which has been in process of building for forty years, and at the rate it is progressing it will probably not be completed for another century. On this same central square is the Bolivian House of Congress, nearly all of its members, of Indian origin. This plaza is the centre of political life and radiating from it are the principal business thoroughfares. Plaza San Francisco is another of the important squares of the city and takes its name from the magnificent church, one of the most artistic structures in South America. Upon this square at all hours of the day there is a fascinating panorama of life, for passing constantly are picturesque Indians clad in grotesque costumes, many of them driving burrows, or the Andean beast of burden, the Llama. Native Costumes In no other city of the world are the costumes worn by Indians as elaborate as those seen in the streets of La Paz. The cholo, or half braid, is resplendent in garments of the brightest colours. The women, in particular, are gorgeously arrayed in silk skirts, kid boots and straw hats. There is a curious custom which is rigidly observed. Full-blooded Indians must wear felt hats, and are looked upon as inferior in social standing. The cholos may always be distinguished by their straw hats, which are never worn by the others. Having married a Bolivian or perhaps a white man, a cholo woman considers herself quite a superior being. She delights in patronising the best shops, where she seeks only the costliest silks, the gayest of shawls and kid boots with high heels, which are imported from France or from the United States. When fully attired she is a sight to behold. Arrayed in all her finery, she promonates like a queen through the streets of the city. And yet, back of it all, the influence of blood is evident. She may dress ever so elaborately, but the old custom still cling. She still insists upon carrying her baby on her back in good old Indian fashion, and she is not averse to carrying her market basket when she goes to the market to make her purchases. Most numerous among the Indians are the Aymaras, who unlike the Qichwa, Indians of Peru, are surly and inclined to hold aloof from the white man. They are seemingly indifferent to the white man's influence. For clothing the Aymara men wear shirts and trousers of coarse cotton material, and over their shoulders is thrown a poncho of heavy woollen cloth. Aside from their poncho, the most attractive part of their costume is a curious woollen head covering, beautifully embroidered with beads in gay colors. In a climate where it is always cold except at midday, these caps with their long earmuffs are very serviceable. Women who are wives of full-blooded Indians make no pretension in the way of attire, and they accept without question their social status, which relegates them to an inferior position. Customs and Laws Much of the trading carried on with the Indians is done by barter. They bring their farm and garden produce to the city and exchange it with dealers for groceries or wearing apparel. Very few of them accumulate money and wealth is very rare. Many of their laws are unique and are no doubt born of tribal customs which have been handed down for generations, and yet are usually rigidly observed. If, for instance, a doctor loses seven patients, Indian law decrees that the career of the doctor must terminate and that his life must be a forfeit for his failure to save the lives of his patients. After the Indian doctor has lost his sixth patient, he usually departs for some unknown place. Although the Bolivian capital is overwhelmingly Indian in point of population, in appearance it is decidedly modern. Its streets are paved with cobblestones, but as a rule are clean and kept in good condition. The pavements may be rough, but it must be borne in mind that there are very few level thoroughfares. Most of the streets are very hilly and would be almost impossible to navigate were it not for the cobblestones, which permit men and beasts to maintain a foothold. Municipal laws will not permit Indians to make use of the thoroughfares for their llamas during business hours. They are brought into the city early in the morning, remaining in some patio or courtyard, awaiting the evening hours when their owners drive them home. At sunset one may see long trains of these quaint animals driven through the streets on their way back to the farms. The llama lends picturesqueness to one of the most unusual cities on the face of the globe. The evenings are cold in the paws. Little or no coal is burned, as it costs sixty dollars per ton, and only the very wealthy could afford to use it. There is no wood, so few of the houses are heated. Most of the English and American residents use oil burners or electric heaters in their homes. But even the principal hotel is so cold that men usually go to dinner in their overcoats, and the women enveloped in furs. Most visitors usually retire immediately after dining, as the night air is so cold that it can be endured only by those acclimated. It is no uncommon thing for a guest at the hotel to pile upon his bed all the available covering that he can obtain, including the carpet on the floor of his room. One might imagine that cholo women are unusually corpulent, but this is apparent only because of the fact that they don from twelve to twenty skirts. At times contests are held between Indian bells as to which has the more gorgeous petticoats and also the greater number. A winner is said to have displayed as many as twenty-four disclosing a collection of brilliantly coloured petticoats unequaled elsewhere for variety. Religion in Bolivia Both Bolivians and Indians are, as a rule, Catholics. On Corpus Christi Day, which is religiously celebrated, there is a curious procession in which thousands of people take part, and a strange combination of cholos, Imaros and native Bolivians wend their way through the various thoroughfares. In this parade the cholo women discard their straw hats and wear their shawls instead. Most of them belong to church societies, and these organisations are indicated by ribbons worn around the neck, the colour denoting the society to which the wearer belongs. All the dignitaries of the church take part in the Corpus Christi Day procession. Business is practically suspended, and the President of the Republic, accompanied by the members of the Houses of Congress, and all the officials of the Government, march to the cathedral where services are held. On various thoroughfares alters are erected, and these are usually decorated by the members of the different ladies' societies. Religion has a strong hold on the Church, and the Church is not affiliated with the church, is looked upon with suspicion and becomes a social outcast. In no other country are the churches better attended. Streets of La Paz The most attractive of the thoroughfares in the Bolivian capital is Alameda, a wide avenue lined with trees and having in its centre a promenade. It is on this road that the buildings are situated. As usual one may walk along this street and seek for the most unattractive building and be quite sure that it is the American Legation Building. Almost every Government is here represented, so that the Alameda might be said to be the centre of diplomatic life. Church of San Francisco La Paz La Paz is surprisingly modern in the architecture of business structures. Most of the buildings are of brick plastered over and painted. Many of its shops would be a credit to an American city. They are by no means mere country stores, but carry an astonishingly good class of merchandise, and to many of the products of France and the United States are displayed for sale in the various shop windows. To leave the capital city one is the railway to the plateau where is situated the railway depot. One may go directly south by rail all the way to Antifogosta-Chile where steamer connections are made for Valparaiso. On this journey one obtains a wonderful view of the backbone of the Andes, travelling along a plateau averaging in height about 14,000 feet above sea level. The snow-clad summits of this mighty range of buildings are constantly in sight. There are few cities along the railway. Perhaps the most important of the Bolivian towns is Ururo, which is in the centre of a very rich salt country, and as the railroad approaches the Chilean boundary there are rich deposits of borax and nitrate. Looking down the Alameda La Paz. Many travellers experience all the danger, or mountain sickness when travelling on the high Bolivian plateau. The altitude is dangerous for some people, and in a few cases results fatally. One whose heart is weak should not attempt the journey, as it is trying even upon the strongest constitution, and such evidences of altitude as nose bleed and dizzy spells afflict even those who are accustomed to high conditions. Sucre. During the cold winter months many Bolivians descend the eastern slope of the Andes to sucre, which has become a favourite winter resort for diplomatic representatives. Sucre is several thousand feet lower than the Paz, and its climate is somewhat milder. Lower down toward the Brazilian boundary there are tropical forests and a wild uninhabited country where disease lurks, and here are great jungles and swamps, making human habitation almost impossible except for the Aboriginal tribes, which seem to be immune to the fevers that infest this low-lying country. Among other important cities in Bolivia are Potosi and Cotombamba, where there is an American school, a branch of the American Institute of La Paz. A number of young American men and women have voluntarily left home and friends and have gone to Bolivia to teach the youth of that country. The best families send their children to the American schools, and the Bolivian boys and girls are not only taught the English language, but they are made familiar with the history of the United States. It is the ambition of many of the sons of Bolivian parents to acquire the language so that they may make their future home in Bolivia. The military system is patterned after that of Germany, as the soldiers of the country have been drilled by German officers, and their influence is plainly evident in the familiar goose-step and the various maneuvers that one makes in Bolivia. The military system is patterned after that of Germany, as the soldiers of the country have been drilled and the various maneuvers that one may observe in military camps. The Bolivian soldiers have not the fighting qualities of the Chileans, and in past wars have proved anything but a match for their neighbours to the south. Lake Titicaca and Guaqui. In going from the pause to Lake Titicaca one travels over a level plateau, nearly three miles above the sea, little or nothing grows at this altitude, and the few Indians living on this plain must have their food supply brought up from the valleys below on the backs of llamas. Other than mines, there is no inducement for even an Indian to make his home on this lofty plateau. There is no source of income other than working in some of the gold, silver and copper mines which abound in these altitudes. Guaqui, a little town on Lake Titicaca, is the terminus of the railway. A regiment of cavalry is stationed at this port, as it, in reality, forms the boundary line of the country. In this little place one obtains his final glimpse of the picturesquely attired cholo women, as they are rarely seen outside of Bolivia. In their native country their appearance excites no unusual interest, but even in Peru they are subjected to an amount of ridicule which is displeasing to these haughty bells. Because of the intense cold school children are often seen seated in the open air where they may enjoy the benefit of the warm sun. This applies largely to the smaller towns and villages, as in the larger cities the school houses are now quite comfortable. Lake Titicaca is a great inland sea, lying between the two ranges of the Cordillera and is very high above the ocean. Its area is about one third that of Lake Erie and its present length is about 120 miles while its greatest width is about 41 miles. It is, without doubt, one of the highest navigable bodies of water in the world. Among the water plants that one sees growing in the lake is a sort of rush which abounds in shallow water from two to six feet in depth and rises several feet above the surface. It is this material which the Indians, having no wood used to construct their boats. In these apparently frail craft propelled by sails of the same material they traverse the lake carrying with them two or three men and, in addition a heavy load of merchandise. Balsa Boats There is considerable skill exercised in the making of the balsa as these reed boats are called. Centuries of experience have taught the Indians the process which has been developed to a remarkable stage of perfection enabling them to defy the storms which are so frequent. The short heavy waves make navigation dangerous even for much larger boats than the native balsa. Like the waters of Lake Superior these are too cold for the swimmer but the lack of bathing facilities gives the Indian but little concern. The greatest depth of the lake is said to be about six hundred feet. Fish are plentiful and the few Indians who live around the shores of the lake devote themselves principally to fishing. As far as habitation is concerned other than Puno on the Peruvian side and Gwaki on the Bolivian there are but a few scattered villages. Four steamers ply to and fro between these ports connecting with the train service. These boats were brought from England taken in sections by railway and put together on the shores of the lake. They are today used to transfer freight which arrives by sea at a Peruvian or Chilean port and is carried by rail to Puno then across the lake to Bolivia. Numerous islands stop the surface of the lake. One is of real interest. It is known as Titicaca Island. It has a population of about three hundred but of that number there is but one man who can read and write. In all Bolivia only thirty thousand children attend school out of a total population of two million. The Aborigines do not seem to care for education and the Bolivians of European race are few in number. Inca Ruins On a small island in Lake Titicaca is the ruined Temple of the Sun, another reminder of the days of the Incas. When that empire flourished this portion of Bolivia was also under the domination of the Inca ruler and even today in some parts of Bolivia one still comes upon numerous evidences of Inca rule such as the ruins of buildings temples and stone images which plainly indicate that they were the work of that remarkable ancient people inaccessible as is the country for one who can stand the journey it affords much of interest. If there were nothing more in Bolivia than the view afforded in looking down from the cup upon the paws this alone would tempt one to visit the country. The buildings of this city have the appearance of so many tea leaves left in the bottom of a cup so tiny do they seem from above. Another glorious scene is that of the encircling mountains that surround Lake Titicaca crowning it with a diadem of snow-covered peaks a view that is unsurpassed among the world's rivers. The interior waterways although Bolivia has no seaport the country has great network of rivers the entire length of Bolivia's navigable streams is about 12,000 miles these naturally provide excellent means of transportation and communication the Paraguay river is navigable for about 1100 miles for steamers of from 8 to 10 feet draft. The I-10 has about 1000 miles of navigable water. Another river the Beni is navigable for 1000 miles for steamers of 6 feet draft only. Other streams such as the Pilcomale, Memore, Serra and Paraguay rivers can accommodate light draft vessels for distances varying from 200 to 1000 miles from the ocean Bolivia can be approached by ports of Mayendo in Peru or Erika in Antofagasta in Chile these are all regular ports of call of the steamers between Panama and Valparaiso from these ports there is railroad communication to Bolivia.