Mount Woolley and Diadem




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Published on Aug 29, 2013

We left Jasper heading south on the 93 at 2:30am. we drove for 50 minutes until we reached the pullout. Took 10 minutes to get the gear ready and lace up our boots and we left the pullout at 3:40am. As soon as you cross the road you have to cross the Sunwapta river, which spreads out in about 8 channels. Jon and i are both fisherman, so we wore our chest waders and stayed completely dry and warm. it took us 2.5 hours to reach the bivy site(most parties do this trip in 2 days, instead of one long day) and another 10 minutes past that to reach the toe of the glacier. we roped up and headed towards the main couloir, until we were able to climb up the rock steps and traverse to the second couloir. Exiting left from the second couloir to gain the upper glacier. Stick to the right of the glacier all the way up to the col.When we were at the col, We were originally going to do rock, paper, scissors to see which 11000er we were going to summit first, however we decided to climb the taller (Mount Woolley) first.We were not able to see the summit of woolley most of the day, but to our surprise, as soon as we were nearing the summit, the cloud moved off and we had great views on the summit! We didnt stay long and headed back to the col so we could climb diadem via the south ridge. Once you are on top of the snowy ridge, the summit comes into view. Be very careful and cautious here, lots of exposure and if there is fresh snow, which there was for us, it makes it interesting.We descended the same way down, and decided to have some fun and glissade down the main couloir. If you choose to do this, be careful of the large crevasses on the right, you want to stay way left. Hour 12 of the trip we were off the glacier and it felt great to take the rope and crampons off. the hike out took us 2.5 hours for a car to car time of 14.5 . Long day but sooooo worth it! thanks for watching!

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    • This Is What It Feels Like (feat. Trevor Guthrie)
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